DASC Preperation

[DJ_AutoX]

Ok so im sure that this might have been posted before, but i did search this material and couldnt find exactly what i needed. I've got 2,900 in the back for the DASC, but im starting to get second thoughts. Im worried about what kind of engine preperation i need to do before i decide to throw the DASC in there. Do i need to switch from AMF to MAF (i have a 95)? Do i need to worry about thermostats, fuel gauges? What do i do about ECU, by the time its in there i will have a Dinan engine chip (i think, unless someone can suggest better), so am i going to need the chip re-flashed? If so, where can i send it that would do a good job?

Sorry if this is a repost, but i couldnt find anything like this. Thank you much guys!

[HuGo]

talk to dusten.

[Silver00spike]

you shouldn't have to have the chip reflashed. Replace any plastic coolant hose connectors that go to the engine if you can, they went bad on my car

[DustenT]

Ok so im sure that this might have been posted before, but i did search this material and couldnt find exactly what i needed. I've got 2,900 in the back for the DASC, but im starting to get second thoughts. Im worried about what kind of engine preperation i need to do before i decide to throw the DASC in there. Do i need to switch from AMF to MAF (i have a 95)? Do i need to worry about thermostats, fuel gauges? What do i do about ECU, by the time its in there i will have a Dinan engine chip (i think, unless someone can suggest better), so am i going to need the chip re-flashed? If so, where can i send it that would do a good job?

Sorry if this is a repost, but i couldnt find anything like this. Thank you much guys!

Here goes:

No engine prep is necessary. I recommend installing a boost gauge (important) and a fuel pressure gauge (less important) along with the DASC. Yes, replace as many plastic coolant pipes/connectors as you can while you have the intake manifolds out. Also, if you are thowing a code of anything else, take care of that right away. Don't touch the ECU!! That Dinan chip will NOT work with the DASC! The chip advances timing too much for forced induction. Save your money for NickG's software (www.techniquetuning.com). You car will run fine without software, but I guess it make a nice difference once you have it. You don't need to switch from AFM to MAF, and you don't need to worry about thermostat. The DASC is the best put together kit I've ever seen, it included EVERY part needed, every gasket, zip tie, hose clamps, etc... All you need to tools.

Do it!

[HuGo]

well said dusten.

[DJ_AutoX]

Wow dusten..amazing. that gave me everything i needed to know! Thank you much. Ill be sure to stay away from that Dinan chip now. Two questions if you dont mind, What should i replace the plastic tubing with, Rubber Tubing? and where can i find a boost guage for the DASC? Thanks again.

[DustenT]

Wow dusten..amazing. that gave me everything i needed to know! Thank you much. Ill be sure to stay away from that Dinan chip now. Two questions if you dont mind, What should i replace the plastic tubing with, Rubber Tubing? and where can i find a boost guage for the DASC? Thanks again.

Replace the collant connectors with the OEM replacement parts. There are two of them. I'm in an airport right now, so I can't look up the part numbers for you, but cali-ti or Tyler has them (I think).

Autometer makes good gauges, you'll only run <10psi, so try to find a 20psi boost gauge. You can order online from ebay, egauges.com, or go to Autozone, they have them in stock.

[Mendi3]

Here goes:

No engine prep is necessary. I recommend installing a boost gauge (important) and a fuel pressure gauge (less important) along with the DASC. Yes, replace as many plastic coolant pipes/connectors as you can while you have the intake manifolds out. Also, if you are thowing a code of anything else, take care of that right away. Don't touch the ECU!! That Dinan chip will NOT work with the DASC! The chip advances timing too much for forced induction. Save your money for NickG's software (www.techniquetuning.com). You car will run fine without software, but I guess it make a nice difference once you have it. You don't need to switch from AFM to MAF, and you don't need to worry about thermostat. The DASC is the best put together kit I've ever seen, it included EVERY part needed, every gasket, zip tie, hose clamps, etc... All you need to tools.

Do it!

I couldn't agree more.

[pdxmotorhead]

I second the fuel pressure guage, I fix way too many broken race cars because they didn't know the pump was dying and went lean.....Make sure the guage taps in as the last thing before the injectors, it will help spot plugged filters and such that way, as well as a clogged return line(Too much pressure:)

Dave

[DJ_AutoX]

NickG doesnt make any type of ECU to work with teh DASC for the m42. If i cant use Dinan, and no NickG..what am i looking at? I want to eventually increase boost, replacing the pully and the injectors, but what ECU am i going to run. I know that there is no way a stock ecu can handle the DASC. What about a type of piggy back system that uses the stock ECU and just flashes the map, sort of the like the Cobb Access port for the Subaru's..?

[cali-ti]

they made the DASC to work WITH the stock ECU. it's only if you want further stages of boost that you need to worry. once i get back from some shopping, i'll find those part numbers for the plastic coolant parts too.

EDIT: the two evil parts ...
01 CONNECTOR 11531714738 $14.17
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/c/c/6.png

well ... it appears the 95 does NOT have the second evil part, you luck out!
09 CONNECTOR 11531743679 $7.81
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/d/m/0.png

[DJ_AutoX]

Thank you for those pics. So my only question is, if i want to do higher performance after the DASC involving ecu...do i need one specially made from NickG or something?

[DustenT]

Thank you for those pics. So my only question is, if i want to do higher performance after the DASC involving ecu...do i need one specially made from NickG or something?

You can run a piggyback fuel/ignition controller. Check out the split second stuff, I guess they work good with BMWs. PM Chad (ZeroG), he's running a Split Second controller on his DASC'd m42.

[DJ_AutoX]

Thanks so much Dusten. you have answered every question i have wondered about. You are def. a god in the 318 world ;)

[marko]

hello all,

I ran into some trouble while trying to instal my DASC last night.. broke of the $14.17 'CONNECTOR' by accident... but was wondering what is the significance of replacing the $7.81 connector (even though I'll get it anyway just to be on the safe side)? will it fail due to increased boost or should I excpect to 'accidentally' brak eit off as I did with the other one??

[DustenT]

hello all,

I ran into some trouble while trying to instal my DASC last night.. broke of the $14.17 'CONNECTOR' by accident... but was wondering what is the significance of replacing the $7.81 connector (even though I'll get it anyway just to be on the safe side)? will it fail due to increased boost or should I excpect to 'accidentally' brak eit off as I did with the other one??

Replace both of them, they WILL fail. For some reason the plastic coolant pieces on the 3 series don't hold up well. I'd recommend replacing any plastic part that see coolant, including the radiator.

[saintly]

Hi,
Those parts don't fail due to the DASC, they fail due to being plastic and heat and old age. It's best to replace them as a general 'do it while your there' item as they are a PITA to get to normaly.

[marko]

yes, indeed.. I'll be ordering today both + o-rings as well... sort of strange BMW is using plastic for this high temp/stress parts... would you happen to know if anyone makes them out of aluminium??

Replace both of them, they WILL fail. For some reason the plastic coolant pieces on the 3 series don't hold up well. I'd recommend replacing any plastic part that see coolant, including the radiator.

[DustenT]

yes, indeed.. I'll be ordering today both + o-rings as well... sort of strange BMW is using plastic for this high temp/stress parts... would you happen to know if anyone makes them out of aluminium??

I don't think anyone makes them from aluminum. The problem is that this plastic just can't hold up to the heat cycles, and fails after 100k miles. If you have to replace them every 100k miles, it's not that bad. :)

[marko]

I hear you... It isn't a big deal I guess. Just kinda heartbreaking when making GREAT progress on the DASC install @ 10PM on a Sat night, and then you snapp the F-ing thing right off (knowing tomorow is Sunday so every dealer is closed - and you may have to order the thing - so you wonder, as you are punching a hole throught your garage wall - why is it made out of plastic? :biggrin: )! But hey, whatever...


I don't think anyone makes them from aluminum. The problem is that this plastic just can't hold up to the heat cycles, and fails after 100k miles. If you have to replace them every 100k miles, it's not that bad. :)

[saintly]

serenity now
serenity now
SERENITY NOW!

[marko]

hello again Dusten... it seems you are a fountain of knowledge in terms of a DASC, so I hope you dont mind me picking your brain & asking you some more stupid questions... :smile:

Is there any way, shape, or form I could RETAIN my OEM airbox, upon installing the DASC (already have K&N filter inside of it)??

I dislike the idea of the cone K&N thing so much, I actualy CRINGED when I saw it in the DASC box!

Is it impossible to retain the box, and why (maybe not enough space in the eng compartment)? Do I really need need to be 'sucking in' all that extra hot air into the motor? Would the DASC work without it & has anyone done it??

Again, I mentioned this at some point to someone on this site before, but I had nothing but a bad experince with one of those set ups on my 91 GTI.
Filter was getting wet every time it rained, it got ripped at one point and was allowing stuff to go into the snorkel (before I realized it & fixed it), and the car actualy LOST power (not to mention it sounded like ASS).

in short, any chance of NOT using the open air filter business with DASC??

Thanks!

I don't think anyone makes them from aluminum. The problem is that this plastic just can't hold up to the heat cycles, and fails after 100k miles. If you have to replace them every 100k miles, it's not that bad. :)

[saintly]

There should be enough space to retain the stock air box. it would just be a matter of getting the pipes to connect. Also, you may need to increase the air flow into the air box. from memory there was someone here who added a second intake pipe.

[DustenT]

There should be enough space to retain the stock air box. it would just be a matter of getting the pipes to connect. Also, you may need to increase the air flow into the air box. from memory there was someone here who added a second intake pipe.

I agree 100%, the factory box should work, but you might need to fabricate a way to connect the two. I'm running a paper filter instead of the K&N filter. Here is a link to more info on that: http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=11154

If you are able to get the factory box to work, post your results and pictures, I love pictures!

[DustenT]

hello again Dusten... it seems you are a fountain of knowledge in terms of a DASC, so I hope you dont mind me picking your brain & asking you some more stupid questions... :smile:

Is there any way, shape, or form I could RETAIN my OEM airbox, upon installing the DASC (already have K&N filter inside of it)??

I dislike the idea of the cone K&N thing so much, I actualy CRINGED when I saw it in the DASC box!

Is it impossible to retain the box, and why (maybe not enough space in the eng compartment)? Do I really need need to be 'sucking in' all that extra hot air into the motor? Would the DASC work without it & has anyone done it??

Again, I mentioned this at some point to someone on this site before, but I had nothing but a bad experince with one of those set ups on my 91 GTI.
Filter was getting wet every time it rained, it got ripped at one point and was allowing stuff to go into the snorkel (before I realized it & fixed it), and the car actualy LOST power (not to mention it sounded like ASS).

in short, any chance of NOT using the open air filter business with DASC??

Thanks!

Take a look here: http://ackthud.com/shawnfogg/performance.htm

Shawn Fogg's DASC with factory airbox:
http://ackthud.com/shawnfogg/pics/supercharger/engine.jpg

[marko]

thank you... also, you seem to mention increased air flow in a neccesity, and therefore, should 'fogging' the box be sufficient (and not feeding the second air line to the current box configuration)?
I believe the photo Dusten provided below is indeed with a 'fogged' box...

There should be enough space to retain the stock air box. it would just be a matter of getting the pipes to connect. Also, you may need to increase the air flow into the air box. from memory there was someone here who added a second intake pipe.

[marko]

Thank you! Excellent!! thats exaclty I was hoping for!

I'll try and shoot for that exact set up in my car... Will ultimately post pictures when its all said and done.

again, thanks for sharing!

Take a look here: http://ackthud.com/shawnfogg/performance.htm

Shawn Fogg's DASC with factory airbox:
http://ackthud.com/shawnfogg/pics/supercharger/engine.jpg

[DustenT]

I tried putting the factory airbox on last night. It doesn't work with the m44 and traction control (not even close), but it might work if you remove the traction control butterfly. Pics:

http://180customs.net/v-web/gallery/albums/Supercharger-Pics/DSCF3978.sized.jpg

Airbox without MAF or Traction Control:
http://180customs.net/v-web/gallery/albums/Supercharger-Pics/DSCF3954.sized.jpg

Besides being the wrong diameter, the MAF and the TB boot don't line up very well:
http://180customs.net/v-web/gallery/albums/Supercharger-Pics/DSCF3960.sized.jpg

While it might be possible to make this work, I really like having traction control so to me it's not worth removing it.

Additional, larger pics are located here: http://180customs.net/v-web/gallery/Supercharger-Pics

[marko]

:smile: well, that changes things slightly, don't it? LOL specially since I'd like to keep my TC as well...
I guess, I'll go with the 'cone' thing, for now at least. You seem not to have any troubles with it, so it may ultimately just work out as is.

In the other thread you attached earlier, you suggested a paper filter vs. K&N included with DASC kit... Was that do due to better protection from paper? Any reason you did not go with the air intake from the 'custom DASC install' thread (from photo below)?

again, THANKS!

I tried putting the factory airbox on last night. It doesn't work with the m44 and traction control (not even close), but it might work if you remove the traction control butterfly. Pics:



Airbox without MAF or Traction Control:


Besides being the wrong diameter, the MAF and the TB boot don't line up very well:


While it might be possible to make this work, I really like having traction control so to me it's not worth removing it.

Additional, larger pics are located here: http://180customs.net/v-web/gallery/Supercharger-Pics

[DustenT]

:smile: well, that changes things slightly, don't it? LOL specially since I'd like to keep my TC as well...
I guess, I'll go with the 'cone' thing, for now at least. You seem not to have any troubles with it, so it may ultimately just work out as is.

In the other thread you attached earlier, you suggested a paper filter vs. K&N included with DASC kit... Was that do due to better protection from paper? Any reason you did not go with the air intake from the 'custom DASC install' thread (from photo below)?

again, THANKS!

The picture you attached is using NickG's stage 3 tuning package which includes the ITG filter, heatshield and uses the 3" MAF sensor. I'm using the paper filter because it filters better.