PDA

View Full Version : Which differential OIL to use?


azca
08-15-2006, 02:26 AM
Red Line? If so, what model/viscosity?

I have 1995 318ti

1996 328ti
08-15-2006, 02:46 AM
75W90

Panzer_M
08-15-2006, 02:46 AM
LS?

Redline 75W90

Our most popular gear oil, 75W90 is the preferred product in nearly all car and light truck differentials, both conventional and limited-slip, as it contains friction modifier which is recommended for limited-slip units. Our 75W90 Gear Oil is common in racing differential applications and can be used in transmissions and transaxles; however, other Red Line lubricants have better frictional properties for rapid synchronization. Exceeds API GL-5.

Used in the Club Sport.

azca
08-15-2006, 03:11 AM
how many quarts do I need?

Also, do you guys use a pump? or what do you use to let new oil in?

aceyx
08-15-2006, 03:48 AM
Site's down, but I pretty much followed this guy's instructions:

Ron Stygar (http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/drivetrain/e36_318ti_change_rear_diff_fluid.html)

The only difference is I use a suction gun to drain what's just sitting in the bottom.

aceyx
08-15-2006, 03:49 AM
I should also mention that Redline hypoid gear oil smells like rotten eggs. Do not do this on a hot day, and wear rubber/nitrile gloves.

pdxmotorhead
08-15-2006, 05:27 AM
All hypoid oil smells like that, its the HIGH sulphur and nickel content that give it the gear box aroma... :)


Dave

Panzer_M
08-15-2006, 05:31 AM
buy 2 qts. you need 1.25/1.32 for the small diff IIRC.

aldogg7
04-12-2020, 07:27 PM
My 1995 318ti has the limited slip option - "S209A Differential lock 25%" - per the VIN lookup. Also did the rear wheel spin test and both wheels turn in the same direction. Bentley manual states that cars with LS use 75W-140 gear oil, but most forums and tutorials are saying 75W-90 since this LS doesn't have clutch packs. Any advice?

BRADESTAR
04-14-2020, 03:35 AM
I put Amsoil 75w-140 in mine year's ago and it's been fine.

aldogg7
04-21-2020, 04:01 AM
Thank you, Bradestar.

Got the bolts off, which was surprisingly easy, but then noticed that both bolts that came out were different that OEM ones (https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=CG53-USA-09-1995-E36-BMW-318ti&diagId=33_1969) ones that I got on Pelican (https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/33117525064BOE.htm). Attached are a couple of photos of a new bolt compared to one that came out. New one has the o-ring and is shorter. Any thoughts?

aldogg7
04-21-2020, 04:47 PM
Did some more research, and I think the bolts with the o-rings are a newer BMW design that superseded the bolts that use a crush washer. Ron Stygar's tutorial shows the same bolts that came off my car.

Even though realOEM (https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=CG53-USA-09-1995-E36-BMW-318ti&diagId=33_1969) shows the bolts using an o-ring also have a crush washer, I don't think that would make sense. Newer BMWs whose differentials/final drive plugs have an o-ring bolt don't use washers. Also, the torque spec for o-ring bolts is less than ones that use washers (44 vs 52 ft-lb).

Anyway, I'm just going to use the old bolts with new washers. The only reason I got new bolts is because I thought the old ones would have o-rings and needed replacing.

Thanks for listening! Maybe this will help others who come across the same dilemma :)