Brake Upgrade Pictures

[CirrusSR22]

I recently upgrade my brakes to the standard E36 vented fronts. Here are some pictures.

My weapons of choice: Balo Rotors, Jurid Pads.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/brakes/IMG_1474.jpg

I also applied the CRC Disc Brake Quiet goo.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/brakes/IMG_1476.jpg

One of the groves cut into the rotor. I assume this is how they balance the rotors. The groove was much longer on the other rotor:
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/brakes/IMG_1487.jpg

[1996 328ti]

The groove is to balance the rotor. But did you really need all that goop?

[CirrusSR22]

Here's the old brakes:
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/brakes/IMG_1516.jpg

Remove the guide bolts caps, loosen and remove the guide bolts. Check out that bleed screw! It sheared off (both sides too), and I was unsuccesful at drilling it out, hence the need for new for new calipers. That's how my projects go, screw something up, which requires another project to fix it! ;)
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/brakes/IMG_1519.jpg

Pry off the rattle clips, pull off the caliper and disconnect the brake line. After that you'll need to unbolt the caliper carrier.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/brakes/IMG_1527.jpg

Unscrew the rotor hold down screw, but be careful. I stripped one and spent 2+ hours drilling and chiseling the old one out. Ughh! It's amazing that such a small bolt can be so stubborn.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/brakes/IMG_1529.jpg

Once you get the screw out, bang the rotor off the hub with a hammer. It'll look like this when everything's off.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/brakes/IMG_1532.jpg

[CirrusSR22]

Repeat on the other side. Here's all the old crap. It's all free if anyone wants anything. You pay for shipping.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/brakes/IMG_1530.jpg

[CirrusSR22]

Clean up the hub with a stiff wire brush and place the new rotors. Boy was I impressed with the quality of these rotors :D It's hard to believe they were only $48.50 each.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/brakes/IMG_1535.jpg

Bolt on the new caliper carrier. Grease the pad contact points as described inyour Bentley.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/brakes/IMG_1538.jpg

99 Z3 Calipers. Fully rebuilt with new piston o-ring, dust boot, rubber caliper bushings/slides, OEM hose, and painted.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/brakes/IMG_1536.jpg

Place the new pads, slide the caliper on (tight squeeze with that gooey crap, but it fit without any fuss), reinstall the guide bolts, protective caps, rattle spring.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/brakes/IMG_1539.jpg

Reattached brake lines, bleed brakes, and do a proper pad bedding. I used my homemade ABS motor cycling rig this time to bleed the brakes. I don't know if it's any less effective than how the dealer does it, but it seemed to work fine for me.

[CirrusSR22]

But did you really need all that goop?

No. There really wasn't any need for it. They're stock pads and they probably won't make noise anyways. I just picked it up at the store one day and decided to use it. We'll see what happens....good or bad.

[DustenT]

No. There really wasn't any need for it. They're stock pads and they probably won't make noise anyways. I just picked it up at the store one day and decided to use it. We'll see what happens....good or bad.

It only needs a small amount where the caliper contacts the pad. Live and learn, right? You should see the pads on my Acura TL, you can still see the neon red/pink squeal juice because I did the same thing. Nice write up and pics.

[CirrusSR22]

Yeah, I don't think it'll hurt anything. It's a bit sticky though, so it'll probably pick up a bit of debris. As soon as I pushed the caliper back on, I seriously though about scraping the stuff off.

[Mad-Machine]

so, how much did you think you spent? I have some serious "shake and brake" due to a warped rotor and I was thinking of upgrading from the solid discs my Ti has.. but was wondering how to go about it. Thanks!

BTW.. parts numbers would be great too!

[CirrusSR22]

I got all my stuff at Pelican Parts (except the used calipers).

• Balo Rotors, $48.50 each ($97 total), part number 34111165455
• Jurid Pad Set, $55.25, part number 34116761244
• Rotor hold down bolts, $2 each ($4 total), part number 34211161806
• Used caliper set, $70 total at a salvage yard.
• Caliper Rebuild Kit, $7.75 each ($15.50 total), part number 34111153202
• Caliper Guide Bushing Kit, $9.75 each ($19.50 total), part number 34111157038
• Brake Hoses, $12.50 each ($25 total) part number 34321159717

I think that comes to $286.25. Not exactly cheap, but I'm committed to this car for the next 100,000 miles minimum. It's pretty damn important stuff too....

The caliper rebuild kits, guide bushings and hoses weren't completely necessary, but it's a good idea as long as everything is disassembled. I was also concerened a bit about used calipers that sat on a shelf for numerous years.

[jflip2002]

I wonder if I put together a package, how many people would be interested? I could get Brembo blanks, Ate blanks, Zimm cross/sport drilled fronts (only blanks for the rear however), PBR Pads, Jurid, Mintex, Hawwk Pads, E36 32x calipers, and brake hoses. Id imagine the cost would be about.... $450-$500 for both axles?

I wouldnt make any money off of it, but for TI'ers, who want to upgrade to larger brakes, that could be convenient.

And for the record, no, you didnt need Any of that goop at all. The pads come with quieting shims already, and you now voided your warranty lol.

[3DGE]

My new brakes make noise, grrrr.

Also when you whre removing the clipper guide bolts, what tool did you use, I thought i stripped out 3 of the 4 but i ended up just using the wrong tool...i was not using metrick, I bought 4 new blolts (10) but ended up using the ones i alrady had on the car...

Did that goop really do anything?



Also would it be ok to upgrade the rear brakes to larger ones and shocks but not the front?

[Mad-Machine]

that is not a bad price at all.. I wonder how much new calipers go for?

[jflip2002]

They would be reman calipers. PRobably something along the lines of A1 cardone. Though new originals could be possible... but for a whole lot more.

No sense in upgrading the rears and not the fronts. Since the fronts do most of the stopping.

[CirrusSR22]

My new brakes make noise, grrrr.

Also when you whre removing the clipper guide bolts, what tool did you use, I thought i stripped out 3 of the 4 but i ended up just using the wrong tool...i was not using metrick, I bought 4 new blolts (10) but ended up using the ones i alrady had on the car...

Did that goop really do anything?



I have a set of Husky allen sockets. It's definitely metric; something like 7 mm or close to it. They look like this and have come in handy many times. Much better than dealing with those fold out hex keys.
http://content.performanceproducts.com/main/100279/100279_200_1.jpg

As for the goop, they are silent so far, but then again, they're stock pads and I don't think they're prone to much noise anyways.

[jflip2002]

I just now checked online... They now have cross drilled rears, and here are some prices:

Nu-Geon rebuilt front calipers for a 1996-98 328i go for about $50, unloaded.

Front Rotors: Blank brembo ($55 A piece), Zimmerman sports cross drilled ($85 a piece), Blank Ate ($55 A Piece), Blank Balo ($60 a piece)

Rear Rotors: Blank Brembo ($40 A piece), Blank Balo ($45 a piece), Zimmerman cross drilled ($75 Per), OPparts Blanks ($25 a piece).

Front Pads: Ate ($55), Jurid ($55), Pagid ($55), PBR Ceramics ($60)



So I guess theyre about the same as the pelican place. Oh well, I tried. And if you guys want, the offers still on the table. All those prices are with the rounded 10% mark up. They are within a dollar or two. I marked them up 10%, as thats what my work charges me! Even though I could squeeze it through without anyone noticing, since I Control all pricing, costing, and accounts payable lol.

[Mad-Machine]

Do you think this would work the same with M3 brakes? I found a source for a set of front calipers and mounting brackets.

[jflip2002]

Mods are required for M3 brakes, so its not really worth it (I dont think). Stick to 32x E36 brakes, no mods required. Just need 17" wheels.

[Watchmyradical]

i think you only need 16 inch wheels not 17. someone correct me if i am wrong. i used 17's when i did mine, just cause they look nicer to me.

[CirrusSR22]

Watchmyradical, was it you that I sold my E46 325i brake set to?

[Watchmyradical]

i beileve so, i love them, one of my best upgrades. thanks.

[CirrusSR22]

I saw your city, and your sig, and it sounded familiar. Glad they're working out well :)

[jflip2002]

You need 17"s.. I have 16"s, and I know I need bigger wheels.

[Mad-Machine]

so. what kind of modifications need to be done to run M3 brakes?

[Watchmyradical]

to use the m3 brakes the m3 spindles are needed.

[L84THSKY]

My car came stock with 32X E36 brakes. The stock 15" wheels will work fine.

Mods are required for M3 brakes, so its not really worth it (I dont think). Stick to 32x E36 brakes, no mods required. Just need 17" wheels.