View Full Version : Forcing the Induction
Well dusten deleted my post without responding which is forcing me to start a new thread. I got a few ??
So chad told me that with a 10psi pulley i will need a custom software for the computer. My question is, do you guys possibly know if the stage 3 from nickg will work with the 10psi pulley?
Do you guys know if with the stage 3 software comes with just the injectors, or with the injectors and fuel rail?
What do they provide with and/or what else would i have to buy seperate from my pocket to make the stg 3 work with the software/power?
With the stg 3 software, is the car still smog passible?
I read some but most of my questions wernt really answered. I think im going to go the Stg 3 route, but stage 2 seems so close from stg 3 and cheaper but ill be making bank soon so i dont give a care.
1996 328ti
12-04-2006, 01:08 PM
Well dusten deleted my post without responding which is forcing me to start a new thread. I got a few ??The FAQ thread is NOT to ask questions but rather add to it.
DustenT
12-04-2006, 02:32 PM
You'll probably want to speak with NickG if you have product specific questions. There is lots of information on his website and most of your questions would be answered by doing just a *tiny* bit of research on it.
96cali
12-04-2006, 04:14 PM
Sounds like you should just call Nick- all I've heard is he's a good guy. Why not speak to him directly?
mohaughn
12-04-2006, 04:25 PM
I'll bite and ask the question on everybodies mind. Have you made sure that the DASC is even working properly before you are about to go off and spend another 1k on it?
If you couldn't feel the 60HP gain in the DASC what makes you think you will feel the comparatively small gain that the stage3 kit gives you?
I'll bite and ask the question on everybodies mind. Have you made sure that the DASC is even working properly before you are about to go off and spend another 1k on it?
its fine.
saintly
12-05-2006, 01:50 AM
its fine.
Was there a problem with your install or was it that your butt dyno needed to be calibrated?
If there was an issue, what was it and what did you do to fix it?
How much more HP and Torque does the 10psi pulley give?
pdxmotorhead
12-05-2006, 07:19 AM
Why not answer the questions too, you come on here and ask for help, pass it forward man!
Dave
PDX
Forums are about sharing information. :)
Why not answer the questions too, you come on here and ask for help, pass it forward man!
Dave
PDX
Forums are about sharing information. :)
All i did is use the regulator from my fuel rail instead of the one provided. Im not sure if its the same thing but it feels better to me that way.
DustenT
12-05-2006, 02:02 PM
All i did is use the regulator from my fuel rail instead of the one provided. Im not sure if its the same thing but it feels better to me that way.
I hope you are joking.
I hope you are joking.
please do tell me why this would be a bad idea?
mohaughn
12-05-2006, 09:57 PM
The fuel pressure regulator included with the DASC is a rising rate fuel pressure regulator. Meaning it is using the increase in manifold pressure that occurs under boost conditions to increase the amount of fuel going into the engine.
This is basically a very inexpensive way to add a supercharger or turbo charger without changing the computer tuning of the car.
If you are using the stock fuel regulator(which is not a RRFPR) then you are not adding additional fuel to the engine when boost kicks in. Which means you are running very lean at fuel boost and high RPMs. Running very lean is not good for the engine, and is certainly not good for performance.
Once again, I think you need to spend the 300$ and get an experienced BMW mechanic to look over the installation. It will be money well spent as right now I don't think you have the kit working properly. If you are not using the RRFPR you definitely don't have it running right, and could be at risk for ruining the engine.
The fuel pressure regulator included with the DASC is a rising rate fuel pressure regulator. Meaning it is using the increase in manifold pressure that occurs under boost conditions to increase the amount of fuel going into the engine.
This is basically a very inexpensive way to add a supercharger or turbo charger without changing the computer tuning of the car.
If you are using the stock fuel regulator(which is not a RRFPR) then you are not adding additional fuel to the engine when boost kicks in. Which means you are running very lean at fuel boost and high RPMs. Running very lean is not good for the engine, and is certainly not good for performance.
Once again, I think you need to spend the 300$ and get an experienced BMW mechanic to look over the installation. It will be money well spent as right now I don't think you have the kit working properly. If you are not using the RRFPR you definitely don't have it running right, and could be at risk for ruining the engine.
Ill ask my dad to put it back then. But how come some people have the regulator at the end of the rail and others dont. So ok if i put back the RRFPR what do i do with the circle fuel regulator? I had another set of injectors witht he fuel rail WITHOUT the regulator at the end, but we have to modify it to work.
Bluebimma
12-05-2006, 10:06 PM
please do tell me why this would be a bad idea?
Im pretty sure that you shouldve used everything that was provided for you in that kit.....it wouldnt be a bolt on kit if they sent parts that were not needed for the rest of the equipment to function properly. You really shouldve followed all the directions carefully when you installed the kit and did everything the right way because asking questions and making some of the remarks you do make you sound, well, less intelligent sometimes. *shrugs* or mabe its just me>>>:blahblah:
DustenT
12-05-2006, 10:45 PM
I think Shawn Fogg (of the infamous "Fogged Airbox") explains it best:
The Downing/Atlanta supercharger handles getting the mixture of the engine correct by using an auxiliary fuel pressure regulator(AFPR). What this basically does is increase fuel pressure as a function of boost. By increasing the pressure the amount of fuel squirted through the injector for any given time increases. When the system isn't under boost the fuel pressure is stock and the mixture is still proper. The general rule of thumb is for every pound of boost you run you need to raise the fuel pressure roughly 6psi. Stock we run 43.5psi (3 Bar) so following this rule you will see that the fuel pressure would be around 85-90psi when under full boost.
I recommend that anyone running a stock DASC check fuel pressure to make sure they are hitting 85-90psi at full boost. The DASC pressure regulator is adjustable to add more pressure if needed.
Hugo - I'm sure you did permanent damage to your motor by running with only the factory regulator. The instructions explain what all of these parts do, so there should be no question in your mind. I would say that the fuel pressure regulator that you removed is the SINGLE MOST IMPORTANT part of the DASC kit. You might want to start looking for motor number 3.
ok so ill put back on. But what do i do with the regulator on the fuel rail?
So ill do that. I want to go with the stage 3 software, but need to save money first. Maybe by febuary. But so do i close the fuel regulator or do i use one of the manifold nipples for that and T the boost gauge?
DustenT
12-05-2006, 11:34 PM
But so do i close the fuel regulator or do i use one of the manifold nipples for that and T the boost gauge?
Use one of the manifold nipples for the DASC pressure regulator and one for the factory pressure regulator. If you need to run a boost gauge, T into the hose going to the factory regulator.
saintly
12-06-2006, 01:46 AM
As has been said (many times) before, if you follow the instructions step by step it WILL tell you what to do with each and every part. This includes new parts supplied by DA, old parts that need to be kept and old parts that need to be removed. go back. start from the beginning and verify that you have a) done everything, b) done it in the correct order and c) done it correctly (i.e. make sure that hose A plugs into nipple B, not nipple C).
You will also find that the cars that you mentioned that do not have the DA supplied fuel pressure regulator (AFPR), like my car, will have custom programming for the engine computer (DME). Most likely from NickG.
does it matter which nipple hose goes to what? Like the first nipple go to fuel regular or the RRf... ?
ZeroG
12-06-2006, 08:18 AM
HUGO, These guys are right. You need to revisit the install of the kit to make sure that you have everything installed correctly.
As for you regulartor problem. The rail that you had on the car with the regulator at the end is most likely not from an M44, although you state that the car is a 96' so I might be wrong about that. I can tell you that most M44 engine run the factory FPR under the drivers seat right by the Fuel Filter.
It was the M42 that the ran the regulator by the rail. So by using the rail with the regulator you are in essence tripple regulating the fuel if you in fact also have a regulator under the drivers side.
The RRFPR is the DA solution for fuel. You MUST, and I mean MUST use it to avoid major damage. Even with it the car still sees AFRs in the 13s which is still high for FI. So you can imagine the car w/o it.
I would revisit the manual, make sure that you have everything plumbed correctly and either by an Wide Ban AFR gauge to check the AFRs or hit the dyno to make sure that you are getting the fuel you need in the high end.
Good Luck!
DustenT
12-06-2006, 02:21 PM
As for you regulartor problem. The rail that you had on the car with the regulator at the end is most likely not from an M44, although you state that the car is a 96' so I might be wrong about that. I can tell you that most M44 engine run the factory FPR under the drivers seat right by the Fuel Filter.
It was the M42 that the ran the regulator by the rail. So by using the rail with the regulator you are in essence tripple regulating the fuel if you in fact also have a regulator under the drivers side.
I think the '96 m44s ran the regulator on the rail. Can anyone confirm? Anyone has a pic of a '96 engine bay?
FATHER
12-06-2006, 02:39 PM
Hugo, i not understand much the english, so i explai the problem that i have when i install my Supercharger, i have a similar problem like you, i have a fuel rail in the kit that have a fuel presure regulator and a RRFPR like your kit i install all but i not feel the HP gain.... like you said, in my 97 M44 i install at that moments 3 fuel regulators( that was my problem) i have first the regulator on the rail, then the RRFPR and finish with the oem regulator under the car( this is the preoblem) so i talk with DUstent and others members and i bypass or remove the oem regulator and i feel the power onthe engine , so now i have first the rail regulator that i think is from 318is and next the RRFPR.Also if you like have more tuneable engine mods you can change the regulator on the rail by a adjustable regulator, i do that....
how did you bypass?
I have a fuel rail w/o the regulator but i will need to do a custom job to it for it to work. I wanted to try to put it on but gotta customize.
mohaughn
12-06-2006, 10:08 PM
Why not call downing atlanta? They may be aware of the issue you are experiencing and have a easy fix for you. As much as I love this website for getting information on stuff that I know nothing about, and getting good feedback from others on parts, etc... You still get the best support for a specific product from the vendor. That is why you bought a new one so that you can call DA and ask them questions.
Why not call downing atlanta? They may be aware of the issue you are experiencing and have a easy fix for you. As much as I love this website for getting information on stuff that I know nothing about, and getting good feedback from others on parts, etc... You still get the best support for a specific product from the vendor. That is why you bought a new one so that you can call DA and ask them questions.
i could do that. The biggest thing that gets me lost is, my gauge IS reading 8psi but its not like i feel the PSI and i could hear the SC spooling up.
DustenT
12-06-2006, 10:15 PM
i could do that. The biggest thing that gets me lost is, my gauge IS reading 8psi but its not like i feel the PSI and i could hear the SC spooling up.
You aren't giving the motor enough gas, so it retards the ignition to stop it from blowing up. When the ignition is retarded, the motor makes no power. Fix your fuel issue before you need another motor.
saintly
12-07-2006, 01:46 AM
Think of it this way.. I could blow a gale into your face but if there is no oxygen in the gale then you will still suffocate.
Simmerly, you could run 20 psi of 'boost' but if there is no fuel (or not enough) then the engine will suffocate.
FATHER
12-07-2006, 02:27 AM
Hugo, i use a bosch universal gas regulator, is easy to install, like the RRFPR, the oem regulator is under the car in the driver side, remove a metal cover and you see the regulator, remove it, and put new hose to do a bypass, then set the bosch regulator to 43.5 psi of gas without vacuum, and that is all, if you like to run with the stock regulator, i think you have a bad RRFPR, also you can install a fuel presure regulator in the fuel line, star the engine acelerate it to boost and look for 85-90psi of gas, if you not have those numbers your RRFPR are bad installation or is damage.
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