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View Full Version : DASC CUTTING OFF PROBLEM


naychurkal
12-20-2006, 01:37 AM
Ok guys im new to this site but im not sure if anyone here knows me.. I'm DOUG and im part of EUROWERKZ and I recently came out on PERFORMANCE BMW in Feb 06. Yellow widebody bmw 318is.... OK my question is i swapped my 92 318is engine with a M44 98 318ti which came with DASC already. The problem im having is that the car keeps cutting off at around 5200 rpms. I check fuel pressure and its right where its supposed to be 80psi. I cant seem to find what the problem is. I heard of some guy in FL that only deals with 318DASC engines, and he said he could flash my ECU and take care of that problem, something to do with my speed sensor. But I cant remember his name or the name of the shop. If anyone has any information that could help me please email me, I would really appreciate it. CHECK MY CAR AT http://www.eurowerkz.com/gallery/album02

I was also wondering if anyone has the installation manual and parts list for the DASC. thanx

Any one from this area (NJ, NY, DE, PA, VA) and would like to join EUROWERKZ let me know. email me @ DOUGF7@COMCAST.NET

mischief
12-20-2006, 02:07 AM
sweet ride you have there

DustenT
12-20-2006, 02:43 AM
Welcome Doug. Can explain what you mean when you say "cutting off"? Does the engine quit? Does it stop revving? Does it sound like a misfire? Always at the same RPM? How does it drive below 5200 rpms? Do you have a check engine light?

I remember seeing your car in the magazine. Quick question: Why do you have a BOV installed on your DASC? Do you still have the by-pass valve installed? Post some engine bay pictures please.

Thanks!

naychurkal
12-20-2006, 02:54 AM
How are you DUSTEN?..... Well the cutting off feels like spark cut off. at the same rpms everytime. But if the engine is cold it doesnt cut off, its just like hitting the rev limiter but just 1500 rpms earlier, Its weird man. Before cutting off the car drives fine, pulls pretty good. Well like i said the BOV came on there, i know it cant be there, i have a huge vacuum leak from it, thats why i was wondering if anyone had the parts list so i know what to order and pricing list, i did see it on another post but i couldnt look at the pdf files.

DustenT
12-20-2006, 03:02 AM
How are you DUSTEN?..... Well the cutting off feels like spark cut off. at the same rpms everytime. But if the engine is cold it doesnt cut off, its just like hitting the rev limiter but just 1500 rpms earlier, Its weird man. Before cutting off the car drives fine, pulls pretty good. Well like i said the BOV came on there, i know it cant be there, i have a huge vacuum leak from it, thats why i was wondering if anyone had the parts list so i know what to order and pricing list, i did see it on another post but i couldnt look at the pdf files.

I would start by replacing your plugs and your plug wires (if you haven't already).

It's possible that the vacuum leak from the BOV is causing the cut-off too. Incoming air is measured at the mass air flow sensor so if any of that leaks out via a vacuum leak, the car will lose power from an improper fuel mixture. It could be that the leak gets worse under high boost/high rpms. What does your boost gauge read before and after the engine cuts out?

naychurkal
12-20-2006, 03:12 AM
well the boost gauge says 10psi but im guessing it says that because of the vacuum leak... i know the vacuum side of the gauge is too high, its reading -10psi. the wires i havent changed the plugs i have. well but why would it not cut off when the engine is cold???? i just dont know what to do man. i was thinking about getting rid of the engine with the supercharger and getting something else, but i like that fact that its different, alot of people around me have the m conversion, so i wanted to do something unique at least around here.

mooseheadm5
12-20-2006, 03:57 AM
If the ECU does not see vehicle speed it might just rev limit the motor. I know the 6 cylinders work this way. You may need to feed the ECU a speed sensor signal to correct this. Does your speedo work? If so, the sensor works so it is just the ECU not receiving the signal. I think the ECU is programmed this way to prevent over-revving in neutral.
-Paul

naychurkal
12-20-2006, 04:21 AM
but then again why would it not cut off if the car is cold ????? thats wat i dont understand ! you do have a good point tho.. maybe the guy i spoke with is right about him reflashing the ecu not to read this safe mode feature.

DustenT
12-20-2006, 04:49 AM
but then again why would it not cut off if the car is cold ????? thats wat i dont understand ! you do have a good point tho.. maybe the guy i spoke with is right about him reflashing the ecu not to read this safe mode feature.

There is no safe mode on our DME. Metal expands when it gets hot. A metal crack could expand larger when it gets hot. I'd take it to a mechanic and have them take a look. Misting water might help to locate a leak/crack.

I can rev past 6000 rpms in neutral. My car used to be an automatic, so it thinks it's in neutral all the time, proving that the speed sensor doesn't adjust rpm redline.

mooseheadm5
12-20-2006, 07:23 AM
Like I said, don't know about the 4 bangers. For the 6 cyl cars, TMS/Conforti makes a speed sensor delete chip that allows you to rev your car past an artificially low redline should you have any reason to have your speed sensor disconnected. No speed sensor on a 6 banger = ~4500rpm redline (might be under load, but I am not sure.) By "in neutral" I meant "while not moving." The DME has no idea when a manual car is in neutral or in gear (the fact that your car revs out "proves" nothing, really, but points to your DME not having this "feature".)
-Paul

Mendi3
12-20-2006, 07:30 AM
How are you DUSTEN?..... Well the cutting off feels like spark cut off. at the same rpms everytime. But if the engine is cold it doesnt cut off, its just like hitting the rev limiter but just 1500 rpms earlier, Its weird man. Before cutting off the car drives fine, pulls pretty good. Well like i said the BOV came on there, i know it cant be there, i have a huge vacuum leak from it, thats why i was wondering if anyone had the parts list so i know what to order and pricing list, i did see it on another post but i couldnt look at the pdf files.

I have a 95ti with a DASC and had the exact same problem. It went for months until we figured out. I had rebuilt the engine and when put the engine back for some reason the crank sensor was not sitting in the right place, causing the engine to cut off at about 5500 RPMs. After we made sure the crank sensor was in the right position, the problem went away.

I hope this helps.

naychurkal
12-20-2006, 01:42 PM
but how does it not cut off when the car is cold, and also its always at the same 5200 RPMS. Does anyone know the guy that works with this kind of engine and supercharger from florida??? i cant remember his name. I wen to my local mechanic and he checked my ecu, i have a code for a speed sensor malfunction, and a couple of missfire codes. when he resets everything the car doesnt cut off........ maybe thats something to START ?

mooseheadm5
12-20-2006, 03:30 PM
Speed sensor malfunction code? Hmm...
-Paul

mohaughn
12-20-2006, 04:29 PM
I'm guessing by the Florida guy you mean Nick G with Technique Tuning.

He does specialize in FI BMWs and the m44 w/DASC is one of the cars that he will do custom tuning for. http://www.techniquetuning.com/

ClubSport
12-21-2006, 12:06 AM
I think you are feeling timing retard. You need more fuel, more octane, or colder plugs. This is why you don't feel it when it's cold, but once the cylinder head is good and hot, the ECU senses knocking and retards spark timing. I used to feel this at 5500 rpm, a dramatic drop off in power. Colder plugs helped a little. Toluene helped a lot. Finally being able to control my air/fuel ratio down to 12:1 helped a lot. With 10psi and a RRFPR on stock injectors I doubt you're getting very good air/fuel ratios.

mooseheadm5
12-21-2006, 01:23 AM
A mechanic with a good scanner (Snap-on with BMW software or Autologic or similar) should be able to look at the live data to see what the knock sensors are doing. They could be pulling the timing back, but should not actually rev limit the engine by themselves, but hey, who knows? Won't know unless you look at the data from the engine.
-Paul

saintly
12-21-2006, 01:55 AM
Here is the manual
http://www.2saintly.com/g/d/3484-1/96+318+Manual+Revision+D.pdf
here is a parts list
http://www.2saintly.com/g/d/3487-1/96+318+Price+List.pdf
and here are pics of each parts bag in the kit
http://www.2saintly.com/g/v/my318ti/dasc-parts/

naychurkal
12-21-2006, 03:26 PM
:confused: :confused: I THINK THAT THE PROBLEM HAS TO BE WITH THE ECU OR SOME TYPE OF CODE, BECAUSE WHEN WE RESET ALL THE DTC'S THE CAR RUNS FINE. OR ALSO WHEN THE BATTERY DIES AND THE CAR IS DEAD FOR A WEEK OR SO I JUMP IT AND THE CAR RUNS NORMAL. BY THE WAY THE CAR SITS FOR MONTHS AT THE TIME CAUSE I ONLY SHOW IT, IF YOU ARE WONDERING WHY I DONT DRIVE IT MUCH. I ALSO HAVE A QUESTION (HOW MUCH POWER CAN YOU ACTUALLY GET OUT OF THIS SETUP, IM GONNA HAVE THE MOTOR OUT OF THE CAR SO IF THERE IS ANYTHING I CAN DO PLEASE LET ME KNOW)

I APPRECIATE ALL THE HELP YOU GUYS ARE GIVING ME !!
THANK YOU VERY MUCH:wink: :smile: :biggrin:

pdxmotorhead
12-21-2006, 04:45 PM
The reason your able to run it right after an ECU reset is
because something is setting those codes. The ONLY
way to figure it out is to get it on a diagnostic machine.
So you can see the engine state in real time. Until you do this
you aren't likely to figure it out.

Oh yea,,, don't shout! :)

Why are you pulling the motor? You won't fix anything that way.
Likely just make it worse. You have to get the electronics right
before you do any motor work.

As for power upgrade is you mean while rebuilding there is all
kinds of stuff to do, you need a GOOD and I mean GOOD race
level re builder to do anything to the M42 or M44. BMW already
did just about everything to the engine to get power in NA mode,
whats left is basically some lower compression pistons so you can
run more boost, B&B everything well.
But if all you are doing is showing it whats the point?

Also if you update your profile with your Location (NOt address, )
someone can very likely point you at a shop that can help you out.

Dave

FATHER
12-21-2006, 06:45 PM
i have similar problem in my supercharger TI, in my case was the oxigen sensor i put a BOSCH universal one and not work good, when i install the oem the car run normal without cut off at 5000rpm

mooseheadm5
12-21-2006, 07:08 PM
Bill at Motorsport Recycling in Rahway, NJ. It is not likely that we will be able to fix your problem over the internet, despite the many good suggestions that have been given. You do not have the equipment or skills to fix this problem quickly, and could easily spend hundreds throwing parts at the problem and still not fix it. The ECU is telling you a potential problem with the car that should be investigated. You need to take the car to a BMW guy, not just some shop. Good Luck!
-Paul

naychurkal
12-22-2006, 01:33 PM
I HAVE A QUICK QUESTION............. WOULD ANYONE BE INTERESTED IN BUYING THIS MOTOR AND SUPERCHARGER FROM ME. I'LL SHIP IT ANYWHERE IN THE WORLD. THE MOTOR HAS 62984 MILES ON IT AND THE SUPERCHARGER HAS BEEN ON IT FOR ABOUT 10K OUT OF THAT. LET ME KNOW GUYS THANKS

1996 328ti
12-22-2006, 02:16 PM
Please stop posting in CAPS.

DustenT
12-22-2006, 10:35 PM
I HAVE A QUICK QUESTION............. WOULD ANYONE BE INTERESTED IN BUYING THIS MOTOR AND SUPERCHARGER FROM ME. I'LL SHIP IT ANYWHERE IN THE WORLD. THE MOTOR HAS 62984 MILES ON IT AND THE SUPERCHARGER HAS BEEN ON IT FOR ABOUT 10K OUT OF THAT. LET ME KNOW GUYS THANKS

You should mention that the motor doesn't run right and that you have a massive leak from a BOV installed on your intake manifold.

Mendi3
12-23-2006, 01:20 AM
Oh yea,,, don't shout! :)

Dave

LOL

Steve in No Va
12-24-2006, 02:34 PM
I don't know if this may have anything to do with it, but I had a fuel cut off problem in my turbocharged 535is early on. The problem turned out to be too much fuel to the injectors at WOT. I had to dial back the RRFPR to its lowest setting because I am only running 8 pounds of boost. The injectors would shut down like they hit a rev limiter. I wouldn't suggest going lean on a forced induction engine unless you have someone that knows what they are doing. I had advice from the builder of my kit, so I was pretty confident when I dialed back the RRFPR.

pnosker
12-24-2006, 03:19 PM
Off topic, but what is the point of those 2 LCD screens in the trunk?