Z3 1.9 shifter fitted

[Mallard]

firstly, big thanks to 318ti.org, e36coupe, e30zone, god, my mum

.....:rolleyes:

the difference

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v232/johnono/Billede120.jpg

the clip from under the car

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v232/johnono/Billede118.jpg

in position

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v232/johnono/Billede121.jpg

close-up of angle (important otherwisethe stick sits way too far forward)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v232/johnono/Billede122.jpg

so,

1st

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v232/johnono/Billede124.jpg

2nd

[Mallard]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v232/johnono/Billede125.jpg

3rd

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v232/johnono/Billede126.jpg

4th

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v232/johnono/Billede127.jpg

5th

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v232/johnono/Billede128.jpg

it feels very nice and tight. a good positive shift feel. recomended

took about 30-45 minutes from car up to car down :D

[Mallard]

its never usually that dirty in there by the way ;)

[tastade]

What is the advantage to the Z3s shifter over our shifter? I need to replace the bushings in mine and would consider it. Do you have BMW part numbers of the parts that are needed (or links to other descriptive posts)? Thanks, Eric

[pnosker]

It shortens the shift length for a theoretically shorter shift time. Also, I think it feels better.

[96cali]

Here is a thread in which Mallard lays out the options:

http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=10820&highlight=shifter

Look here for a description of misc parts to replace:
http://www.understeer.com/shiftlever.shtml

Mallard- any regrets about not going with the Z4 2.8/3.0 lever you describe in the other thread? Is the z3 lever pleasingly and noticably shorter?

BTW- where is the land of the Vikings exactly? Minnesota or Norway?

[Mallard]

to tastade: Exactly as Pnosker (cheers mate ;) ) says, the distance travelled between shift is shortened, as is the length of the shifter stick itself.

to 96cali: no regrets really, i had to go with the comprimise as the girlfriend couldn´t get it in reverse and was having major probs just getting it into gear..

the Z4 was a really good , but extreme option so be wary if others use your car

and yeah, its is much shorter compared to the original. i can rest my arm on the armrest and hold the stick in 5th, which i couldnt do before by atleast 1"

feels much smoother in and out of shift aswell :D


and i live at the moment in Denmark ;)

[Panzer_M]

notchy in 1st gear at all? If no I may have to buy one.

I hated the UUC Evo III in the 1997 in 1st..but 2-5 it was good..but in traffic it was a PITA to use..I'd rather use a OE M3 or OE Z shifter than spend the $$$ on another SSK and have to fight for 1st.

[Mallard]

smooth as before, no change realy :)

it is a more "solid" feel though

[M3_KILL3R]

Thats good. i have to get one soon Mallard how much did you pay for it? i know the dealer sells them but just wondering how much they are...

[turbof128]

Did you have to bend the selector rod or the shifter to make it fit?

[Panzer_M]

not with a z3, but you have to bend the Z3M's to have it fit normal or else it's forward and up to the right of center if you just install it.(I picked mine up pre-bent on BF.com, but used for couple years on a 325is)

What's the P/N for the Z3..I went to dealer today to see about a new 95 M3 and had no luck....also no dice with BavAuto and Pelican. So I am going to see about this lever. I really don't want to spend a hundred on a uncomfortable lever or more as with the UUC one. But I do need to do this, when I did my 5$ WSR I greased my shifter, ball and bottom with white Lith, worked well for a few months, but it's crapping out again..I just need to replace it.

[Den]

I put a Z3 1.9 lever in my E30. Might put one in the Ti. . .
Basically, to shorten the throw, the length of the lever below the pivot ball is increased. This moves the point at which the shift lever attaches to the gear selector rod off axis; the selector rod is now pushing into the transmission at an angle instead of straight on, and this causes the shifting action to be more notchy/difficult. Shorter throw also means less leverage = more effort required.
You have to decide where you want to compromise between shortness and smoothness. The 1.9 lever shortens the throw in my E30 while retaining most of the creamy smoothness of the stock lever.

http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/drivetrain/e36_vertical_off_axis_force.html

http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/drivetrain/e36_replace_a_shift_lever.html

[Den]

Thats good. i have to get one soon Mallard how much did you pay for it? i know the dealer sells them but just wondering how much they are...
What's the P/N for the Z3..I went to dealer today to see about a new 95 M3 and had no luck....also no dice with BavAuto and Pelican. So I am going to see about this lever. I really don't want to spend a hundred on a uncomfortable lever or more as with the UUC one. . .

SHORT SHIFT KIT Fits E30 / E32 / E34 / E36 & E24 cars. . .$75

http://www.bmaparts.com/item.wws?sku=SHORTSHIFTKIT&mfr=BMA&qty=1&storepk=500142&cookieID=21M09X0GC21M09YU37&drillid=6&clientid=bmaparts&clientid=bmaparts
(If this link doesn't work, click on the 'Specials' tab on their main page to find the kit. . .or just call to order whichever pieces you want. Looks like you would need to call anyhow to specify which lever you want; I don't see any options on the web site.)

Patrick is still The Man. He can get whatever factory shifter you want. The lever itself is ~$45. The kit includes new bushings & stuff that you may want to replace while you are at it, but the black rubber 'bearing sleeve' bushing(#2 in diagram) is a PITA to remove. It's held in place by the 'bearing bolt' pin(#3 in diagram), which locks in with a 'b!tch clip,' and they call it that for a reason. You may want to try to remove yours first before ordering parts. Supposedly, a worn bearing sleeve bushing is a major contributor to shifter slop, and there are stiffer delrin aftermarket replacements available, but I couldn't get mine out with the transmission in the car. I did replace the white cup(#7 in diagram) in which the shift lever's pivot ball sits. I dunno if this helped to tighten things up, but you have to remove it with the shifter anyhow and it's only ~$7.

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=CG53&mospid=47505&btnr=25_0013&hg=25&fg=05

02 BEARING SLEEVE, ROUND L=26MM 1 25117519669 $8.59
03 BEARING BOLT D=10MMX40MM 1 25111221849
07 BEARING, SHIFT LEVER 1 25111220600 $8.48


https://secure9.nexternal.com/shared/StoreFront/default.asp?CS=bimmerworl&BusType=BtoC&Count1=842266261&Count2=759406685&CategoryID=56&Target=products.asp
Delrin bushing + good pic of b!tch clip.

[Philly]

not with a z3, but you have to bend the Z3M's to have it fit normal or else it's forward and up to the right of center if you just install it.(I picked mine up pre-bent on BF.com, but used for couple years on a 325is)

What's the P/N for the Z3..I went to dealer today to see about a new 95 M3 and had no luck....also no dice with BavAuto and Pelican. So I am going to see about this lever. I really don't want to spend a hundred on a uncomfortable lever or more as with the UUC one. But I do need to do this, when I did my 5$ WSR I greased my shifter, ball and bottom with white Lith, worked well for a few months, but it's crapping out again..I just need to replace it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=013&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=230092105515&rd=1&rd=1

$24
doesn't say B&M anywheres in it... but it is (or a damn good knockoff)...
its the 'racing' version, shift is like a light switch...
only thing different is it didn't come in a b&m box nor did it come with the grease.. but i guess thats a good reason to knock $150+ of the retail price.. lol


there are some downsides to this kit though, read around

[Mallard]

the price:

$69

including shifter, 2 X plastic washers, 1 X clip

i didnt need the 2 washers as the shifter has them "built in" it seems. the internal guide is exactly the width of the 2 washers either side

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v232/johnono/Project3.png

:)

[96cali]

RealOEM said $63.05 IIRC for the lever itself so Mallards price seems right, plus a clouple clips.

Mallard- you rock those illustrations. Do you have some graphic training? :writers:

the price:

$69

including shifter, 2 X plastic washers, 1 X clip

i didnt need the 2 washers as the shifter has them "built in" it seems. the internal guide is exactly the width of the 2 washers either side

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v232/johnono/Project3.png

:)

[Mallard]

lol, no fella, i done love that microsoft picture it 7 though!

wish i could be bothered to figure out hor Photoshop worked, seing as i have it but never use it :lol:

[Den]

http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/drivetrain/e36_mz3_shift_lever_costs.html
mz3_shift_lever_costs

[ipswich318ti]

hello mate would u recomend this one instead of the pre bent one from ben ???

also can u pop part numbers up ect

[Den]

Not sure if you are referring to me or Mallard, but I'll answer since I'm here at the moment.

Some of the factory BMW levers are bent and some are not. Basically, the bend only affects where the shift knob is located. If your stock lever is bent, and you install a straight lever, the knob will then be positioned farther forward. If you are comfortable with this, then it does not matter. I installed a Z3 1.9 lever in my E30. It was bent, and so was my stock lever, so the knob position didn't change much. I can't say which lever would approximate the stock position of the Ti lever becasue I haven't tried any in my Ti yet.

I'm not familiar with Ben's kit, but most kits I've seen go for $200+. A Z4 lever will definitely shorten the throw; it's just a question of how 'nice' you want it to be. I'm sure some of the kits are nicer than someting cobbled together with off-the-shelf parts(Z4 lever will be notchy and knob placement may be off), but probably not 3-5x nicer. Unless you have $ burning a hole in your pocket, I see little reason to spend that much on the 'ultimate' shifter when you can use factory parts for less.


Part numbers can be found on these pages:

http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/drivetrain/e36_mz3_shift_lever_costs.html

http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/drivetrain/e36_replace_a_shift_lever.html

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=CG53&mospid=47505&btnr=25_0013&hg=25&fg=05

[ipswich318ti]

ok thanks for tht it was for mallard but ur answer was good

and are the levers for a m42 and m44 different ie one bent one straight

[Den]

Same part numbers.

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=CG53&mospid=47505&btnr=25_0013&hg=25&fg=05
US M42

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=CG73&mospid=47506&btnr=25_0013&hg=25&fg=05
US M44


Euro cars may be different. Search on realoem.com

[ipswich318ti]

oh as i was reading on one of the posts and it said post 1996 you would need to bend it

ill find u the link

[ipswich318ti]

You will need the following parts/tools for an '87-'95 318 or 325:
- Floor Jack
- Ramps/jackstands
- Mechanix Gloves
- Two medium sized flat blade screwdrivers
- Grease
- Used M3/328 lever (31% shorter) or a Z3 lever #25 11 1 434 148 (29% shorter)


You will need the following parts/tools for a '96+ 318:
- Floor Jack
- Ramps/jackstands
- Mechanix Gloves
- Two medium sized flat blade screwdrivers
- Grease
- Used M3/328 lever (31% shorter) or a Z3 lever #25 11 1 434 148 (29% shorter)
- Desk vice
- Three large sockets

[Den]

oh as i was reading on one of the posts and it said post 1996 you would need to bend it

ill find u the link

Like I said, I haven't done my Ti yet, so this is a bit of a guess, but the part numbers are showing the same lever for '95 and '97 Ti's. . .actually they show the same for my '90 325i too, which is a bent lever.
So going by the part #'s, you would need to bend any shift lever that was straight if you wanted to keep the knob close to the stock position.

The vise and three sockets may also be required for bending the gear selector rod(#9 in diagram), which is different from the shifter lever. I had to do this in my E30 so that the selector rod would clear the vibration damper on the front end of the driveshaft. I don't know if the Ti has clearance issues like this, M42 or M44. If you do have to bend the selector rod, don't sweat it; it's pretty easy to do. The selector rod is hollow and almost feels flimsy once you start bending it in the vise, so be careful not to go too far. . .shift lever may be a lil' more tough.

[Den]

Your reference above is to a '318,' which shows a different shift lever than the 318ti. It appears that the lever is an E30 / E36 thing rather than an M42 / M44 thing, and that the Ti uses an E30 lever for both motors. . .so the issue of whether to bend or not to bend the shift lever should be the same with both motors. There may be other differences on the M42 / M44 Ti drivelines that require bending the gear selector shaft on one and not the other though.

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=CG53&mospid=47505&btnr=25_0013&hg=25&fg=05
'90 325i M20 E30
06 SHIFT LEVER 1 09/1989 25111221978 $63.05 See SI 230192468

'90 318is M42 E30
06 SHIFT LEVER 1 25111221978 $63.05 See SI 230192468

'95 318Ti M42
05 SHIFT LEVER 1 25111221978 $63.05 See SI 230192468

'97 318Ti M44
05 SHIFT LEVER 1 25111221978 $63.05 See SI 230192468

'97 318i M44 E36
05 SHIFT LEVER 1 25111222955 $63.05
05 SHIFT LEVER 1 25117527247 $63.05

'94 318i M42 E36
05 SHIFT LEVER 1 25111222955 $63.05
05 SHIFT LEVER 1 25117527247 $63.05

'94 325i M50 E36
05 SHIFT LEVER 1 25111222955 $63.05
05 SHIFT LEVER 1 25117527247 $63.05

[ipswich318ti]

cool thanks mate

[Jammu]

Installed Z3-1.9 sifter to my Ti just last month and the feeling is awsome. Replaced clutch at same time so now sifting is smooth and fast ;)

This is mod that should be all cars.

[M3_KILL3R]

Installed Z3-1.9 sifter to my Ti just last month and the feeling is awsome. Replaced clutch at same time so now sifting is smooth and fast ;)

This is mod that should be all cars.

THATS exactly what i want to do loll what kind of clutch did you buy? the OEM one?

[Panzer_M]

got mine from thr dealer this week with 2 nylon cups(one from BMW, one from Pelican, cause I forgotten I had order one from Pel.)

[AnGeLuS]

Mellard,

I would like to do the same setup, could you place the Part Numbers of the stuff you bought please.

And can I use this for a m42 model ?

Thx m8 ;)

[Jammu]

THATS exactly what i want to do loll what kind of clutch did you buy? the OEM one?
Hi,

I Bought a OEM Sachs clutch package (http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=CG71&mospid=47455&btnr=21_0140&hg=21&fg=05) witch contains parts from this picture: #1, #2 and #3
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/s/f/14.png

Allso changed the OEM Carrier Bushings to these (http://www.bimmerworld.com/html/delrin-carrier-bushings.htm)
They are part #2 from this image:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/j/p/227.png (full part list (http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=CG71&mospid=47455&btnr=25_0013&hg=25&fg=05))
I allso recommend you to change part nro: #3 as well.

I used Z3-1.9 Leveler to shorten shifting ~30%
Part 25111434148 (SHIFT LEVER) (http://www.realoem.com/bmw/partxref.do?part=25+11+1+434+148&showus=on&showeur=on)

[Mallard]

Mellard,

I would like to do the same setup, could you place the Part Numbers of the stuff you bought please.

And can I use this for a m42 model ?

Thx m8 ;)


hi angelus,

have a look in the previous posts, there are links to all the parts / procedures and tips&tricks ;)

any other help please pm me or write to lamp@galnet.dk :D

[Panzer_M]

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/j/p/227.png

I got 2,3 and Delrin replacement 2, and 12 to 15s new in my spares box. plus spare 10s, and 11s

need to install them sometime in the future prob in the next clutch job.

[M3_KILL3R]

ahh alright thanks ya im going to go ahead and get a new OEM clutch n the shifter probably some ttime in the next 3 months

[AnGeLuS]

Im thinking about going for the z3 1.9 'er :D