Power Steering Refresh - DIY. PICS!

[CirrusSR22]

Replace your power steering fluid, reservoir, and supply lines.

Parts Needed
• Fluid Reservoir w/ Integral Filter: 32 41 1 097 164
• Fluid Supply Hose (reservoir to pump): 32 41 1 092 982
• Return Hose/Pipe (rack to reservoir): 32 41 1 093 137
• Banjo Bolt Sealing Rings (2x): 32 41 1 093 597
• Normal Hose Clamps, 7/8" to 3/8"? (3x)
• Automatic Transmission Fluid, Dexron III. I recommend 4 quarts.

*Optional* Parts, Not Shown Here
• High Pressure Steering Hose (pump to rack): 32 41 1 093 341
• Sealing Ring (pump output): 64 50 8 390 601
• Banjo Bolt Sealing Rings (2x): 32 41 1 093 596

For your reference, here's a parts diagram: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=CG83&mospid=47506&btnr=32_0726&hg=32&fg=20

Tools Needed
• Stubby Flathead Screwdriver (for worm-drive hose clamps)
• Diagonal Cutting Pliers (for cutting stock hose crimps)
• 10mm Combo Wrench (reservoir & "trombone" removal / installation
• 22mm Combo Wrench (for Banjo bolt)
• Can of Brake Cleaner
• Page #2 of This Document: http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/steering-flush.pdf

Here's some of the parts.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/steering/steer1.jpg
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#1. Begin with safely supporting the front end of the car. I used jack stands instead of ramps, so the wheels were free to turn.

#2. To prevent pump and rack contamination, thoroughly clean the banjo bolt (rack output) and pump input connections with brake cleaner.
Overall system:
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/steering/steer2.jpg

A VERY messy reservoir to pump hose. Access is hard, but clean the connection as good as possible:
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/steering/steer3.jpg

There's a banjo bolt under all that gunk, trust me:
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/steering/steer4.jpg

After some cleaning:
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/steering/steer5.jpg

Reservoir shot from the top:
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/steering/steer6.jpg

[CirrusSR22]

#3. The general process it to flush the system with the old pieces in place, then do it again with the new parts. I started by sucking all the fluid I could out of the reservoir with a turkey baster, but that step is optional. It cuts down on the mess.

Start by cutting the small hose's crimp/clamp and pulling the hose away from the reservoir. Fluid will leak, so be prepared to catch it. You can see how nasty black mine is.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/steering/steer7.jpg

#4. Once the fluid is done draining, plug the reservoir with the cap from your new reservoir. We are creating a way to add fluid to the reservoir, but not have it return through the system.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/steering/steer8.jpg

#5. Now comes the time to flush the system. Take the loose hose and direct it into a large pan or container. Add clean fluid to the reservoir, start the car, and quickly turn the wheel full left and right. The reservoir will get sucked dry very quickly and start to gurgle. I don't know how much of that is acceptable, so I shut the car off as soon as I got lock-to-lock. Fill the reservoir again, and repeat the same process. I did it numerous times to make sure I got clean fluid throughout. I ran through 2+ quarts doing this procedure.

#6. Remove the banjo bolt, and the small bolt holding the trombone in place. Remove the trombone.

#7. Remove the pump supply hose by unscrewing the worm clamp and cutting the crimped clamp. Here's a shot looking down the pump input nozzle (bad angle, sorry).
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/steering/steer10.jpg
#8. Loosen the bolt clamping the reservoir in place. Remove the old reservoir, and replace it with the new one. *NOTE* Before you tighten the reservoir in place, make sure the large output is rotated to be as far to the left of the car as possible (see pictures). The hoses will be stretched if the reservoir is in the wrong position.

#9. VERY carefully clean the banjo connection mating surface on the rack. A clean surface will prevent leaks. Debris into the rack can cause damage. Using the new sealing rings, tighten the banjo bolt to 30 ft-lbs. Well, it's too confined for a torque wrench, so you'll have to wing-it. Don't forget the small trombone mounting bolt.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/steering/steer9.jpg

#10. Attach the new pump supply hose, but don't forget to slide the hose clamps on first. Attaching it to the pump isn't hard, but sliding the end onto the reservoir is VERY hard. Some clean fluid will help lubricate the hose, but it's still a pain.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/steering/steer11.jpg

[CirrusSR22]

#11. Now that we have new hoses, reservoir and filter in place, I decided to flush it again. I was unsure of how much crap I was flushing into the system when I poured clean fluid into the nasty old reservoir. Do it just like you did before, including plugging one of the reservoir holes.

#12. Attach the rack return line to the reservoir, and top off the fluid. Start the car and run the steering lock-to-lock numerous times. Check for leaks. The level will drop a bit, so you'll need to keep adding more fluid. If I read the BMW procedure correctly, start the car, remove the fluid cap, and just set it in place to get an accurate reading. It should be between the two graduations.
Ahh, all back together:
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/steering/steer12.jpg

#13. Go for a careful test drive, including lock-to-lock turns. Check the level again, and recheck for leaks.

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Random notes:
- Keep ATF away from your belts as much as possible. ATF is nasty stuff, and I'm sure it'll only do harm to the belts.
- Prepared to get messy with this project. It's not a very clean process.
- I'd recommend buying the BMW worm-drive hose clamps (part #2 on the realoem.com diagram) It seems to be designed to avoid damage to the rubber hoses vs. the hardware store clamps. Essentially the BMW clamps don't have sharp edges.
- Reason #Eleventy-Billion not to buy an automatic transmission; The transmission cooler lines run right by the pump supply hose. They will get in your way, and they will piss you off.
- I'm sick of typing "reservoir"

[CirrusSR22]

If you are interested in trying to replace just the rubber hose portion on the trombone piece, instead of the entire assembly, here are the dimensions.

Outside Diameter: 17.5mm
Inside Diameter: 11.3mm
Total Length: 10.25"

[316i compact]

I have an ATF leak right under the ATF reservoir. What parts should i replace to get it fixed? Just the hose clamps? It is leaking bad at the point where the hoses attach to the reservoir.

[mohaughn]

I'd replace the hoses and the reservoir. Every BMW I've owned has started leaking at that exact spot.. I think over time the hot steering fluid may cause tiny cracks in the inlet/outlet on the reservoir which causes the leaking to start. All in all I think this is a pretty cheap and easy repair. Much cheaper than a new steering rack. I did the same thing about 4 or 5 months ago.

[316i compact]

I'd replace the hoses and the reservoir. Every BMW I've owned has started leaking at that exact spot.. I think over time the hot steering fluid may cause tiny cracks in the inlet/outlet on the reservoir which causes the leaking to start. All in all I think this is a pretty cheap and easy repair. Much cheaper than a new steering rack. I did the same thing about 4 or 5 months ago.

How much did it cost you, all the parts?

[mohaughn]

Something like 80$... Cirrus gave the part numbers so hit an online parts website and look up the prices. I don't think the prices I had on parts here in the US will be the same as what you will pay. It is also possible that your car uses slightly different parts, so make sure you verify they are the correct parts for your car..

[316i compact]

Something like 80$... Cirrus gave the part numbers so hit an online parts website and look up the prices. I don't think the prices I had on parts here in the US will be the same as what you will pay. It is also possible that your car uses slightly different parts, so make sure you verify they are the correct parts for your car..

It uses the same parts, but still 80$ are much at this moment for me!! I will try to fix the leak without changing anything, if it doesnt work i'll replace everything along with a Z3 rack. Thanks for your help!

[toti4]

After mine was side impacted on the passenger side front wheel/fender by another car, my power steering fluid started leaking out profusly untill it was all gone. The leaking seems to be comming from the area of the photos. Any idea what might break as a result of such a side impact?

[mohaughn]

If I had to guess I would say the most likely spot would be the banjo bolt that connects the "cooler" or trumpet line to the power steering pump.

edit- I had to correct that. From the PS pump to the rack is the line I was thinking of.. it is the pressurized line that is not listed as being replaced in this DIY. I don't think that line will have very much play in it.

#5 in this photo- http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=CG53&mospid=47505&btnr=32_0650&hg=32&fg=20

[toti4]

I'd bet you are correct. Thanks for the very timely info!
It's a great help and much apreciated!

[duke.sf]

Thanks CirrusSR22, I fixed my power steering fluid leak following your advices with little changes for my exact situation. Here are my 2 cents:

- Instead of changing the hoses, I cut about 5/8" to 3/4" from them. I've noticed the hoses are still flexible and seem in good condition, so did not make sense to change them. Only the hose section under both clamps was harder and on the supply hose even a little bit cracked, so I shortened them. Be carefull if you shorten them too much they may become too shorth.

- The original clamps were loose, probably because the rubber under them get smashed and not so elastic after all these years. You need special tool to work with these original clamps, so I used new worm style tightening clamps. Make sure you get the right size- even though the big ones can get squized to small diametar if the worm screw housing is too big they are not going to clamp the hose evenly. Also, in general these of the shelf clamps are poor quality, so check them for sharp edges along the contact surface with the hose- if so break the edges with a file.

- I kept my original power steering fluid reservoir. I took it out, cleaned it and cerfully check it out for any crack, etc.- it looks as new. Probably is good to change it at least because of the integrated filter in it, anyway I had to special order it and I didn't want to wait, so did not change it.

At the end the whole repair cost me about 2 hours and $10 (1 gallon ATF and both clamps). Hope you are not gonna label me as a miser. I just couldn't justify spending about $100 for new parts and replacing perfectly usable ones. My car is '95 ti, has 237 k miles, but is really pampered and in great condition. Always been in California, never been at freezing temps or driven on winter roads with salty antiicing solution, etc, etc., so probably that is why all these parts were O.K.

[krissi1988]

What type of power steering fluid should i use?

[tiFreak]

Dexcron III ATF, don't use power steering fluid

[krissi1988]

ok thanks, where can i get it at, just like an auto zone or something

[tiFreak]

yeah, any parts store like that, if you don't know what exactly to look for just say Dexcron III and they'll know what you're talking about (hopefully :rolleyes:)

[krissi1988]

ha ha will do

[Will'sBimmer]

Well I did this today minus the return line. I just changed out the reservoir and the line going to the pump. Let me tell you it was a pain the a**. The hose going to the pump was very hard to get off. I had to cut it in half. Then pull the rest of it off the pump. I had to pry with a screwdriver and more. Anyways I finally got it all off and changed everything out and then got it all connected and clamped down. Ran the car around and everything is working fine. No more leaking and my fluid level now stays up. Thanks for the write-up.

[vap3]

how optional are these parts?

*Optional* Parts, Not Shown Here
• High Pressure Steering Hose (pump to rack): 32 41 1 093 341
• Sealing Ring (pump output): 64 50 8 390 601 < --- can't find this part on pelicanparts :(
• Banjo Bolt Sealing Rings (2x): 32 41 1 093 596

the high pressure steering hose is 2 bills at pelican parts! the rest can be had for around 80 bucks yikes!

[CirrusSR22]

how optional are these parts?

*Optional* Parts, Not Shown Here
• High Pressure Steering Hose (pump to rack): 32 41 1 093 341
• Sealing Ring (pump output): 64 50 8 390 601 < --- can't find this part on pelicanparts :(
• Banjo Bolt Sealing Rings (2x): 32 41 1 093 596

the high pressure steering hose is 2 bills at pelican parts! the rest can be had for around 80 bucks yikes!

That's why I didn't replace it, I think. I more wanted to replace the filter inside the reservoir and get fresh fluid in the system. The two other non-pressure hoses were cheap enough that I decided to go for it. As long as you're not having issues with it, you might as well skip it.

[Mr. Crow]

Im planning on replacing these parts as I do have a small leak. I have a question if someone might be able to tell me.

Everytime I turn my wheel I get loud squeeling sounds from both turning left and right. When I give it light gas on the pedal, the sound goes away and I complete my turn.

Could this be the belt, bad pump, bad rack, or by replacing these parts will it stop squeeling?

I plan on starting with the small fixes and cross my fingers.

Thanks!

[JunpoweR]

My steering sometime sticks while turning either way, what problem is this and will this fix it?

[spidertri]

Has anyone found a good replacement for the return hose that only comes with the trombone?

[justinatl70]

could you just replace the hoses without the metal cooling line?

[spidertri]

If anyone wants to know, I used a foot long 1/2"ID 250psi piece of hose to replace the return line from the trombone to the reservoir. It fit very snugly on both ends and seemed like a perfectly acceptable replacement. Also, make sure whatever hose you get is oil resistant.

[active20082009]

Hey guys ,
I have a 1996 , 318 ti , am about to change the power steering fluid and hose, is it just bleed and add? Or should I worry about something else ? Can u guys tell me what I should NOT do ?
Thanks a lot

[cooljess76]

Hey guys ,
I have a 1996 , 318 ti , am about to change the power steering fluid and hose, is it just bleed and add? Or should I worry about something else ? Can u guys tell me what I should NOT do ?
Thanks a lot

Yeah, DON'T use power steering fluid, use ATF(automatic transmission fluid).

[kavinsky]

To everyone with a M42 engine, the U-shaped hose Cirrus uses between the reservoir and the pump WILL NOT fit in your car. The line from the reservoir to the pump in your car looks like this (http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=32-41-1-141-274-M20&catalog_description=&Power%2520Steering%2520Hose%252C%2520Fluid%2520Container%2520to%2520Power%2520Steering%2520Pump%252C %2520Note%253A%2520Also%2520requires%2520the%2520use%2520of%2520%2528%2532%2529%2520%2533%2532%252D% 2534%2531%252D%2531%252D%2530%2539%2533%252D%2535%2539%2537%252DM%2531%2537%2520Sealing%2520Ring%252 C%2520%2528%2531%2529%2520%2533%2532%252D%2534%2531%252D%2536%252D%2538%2535%2532%252D%2534%2537%253 0%252DM%2539%2520Banjo%2520Bolt%2520and%2520%2528%2531%2529%2520HC%252D%2531%2536%252D%2532%2537%252 D%2539%252DM%2531%2533%2530%2520Hose%2520Clamp%252C%2520%2533%2531%2538i%252Fis%252FiC%2520With%2520 M%2534%2532%2520Engine%2520%2528%2531%2539%2539%2532%252D%2531%2532%252F%2539%2533%2529%252C%2520Eac h%2520), and also requires 2 sealing rings (http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=32-41-1-093-597-M17), bringing the total number needed to 4. In addition, you do not need the third worm clamp. Learn from my mistake!

EDIT: The trombone piece listed in Cirrus' post is also specifically for the M44 engine. You'll find that the rubber hose connecting the metal trombone and the reservoir is about an inch and a half too short for the M42 engine. I had to ship the part back and get the correct one sent to me.

[Vazquezp]

what is the reason to not use power steering fluid? and instead use ATF?

[Pezgoon]

That is what BMW requires. Some manufacturers use atf instead of power steering because of the higher pressures, temperatures and the more "cleaning/detergent" action of the atf compared to the power steering fluid if I'm not mistaken. Imagine what atf goes through inside a transmission and compare it to a power steering rack, which is handling worse? (the transmission) this makes the fluid and the system much more durable than using regular power steering fluid

If I'm not mistaken

[adcurtin]

R.I.P. the images in this thread. they're gone now, and all the ones in the internet archive are blurry.