Cooling System Rebuild. PICS! [Archive]

CirrusSR22

09-09-2007, 02:55 AM

Cooling System Overhaul
1996 318ti Auto / M44.

Parts List

• Radiator, 17111728905 - $128 (ebay - AC Imports)
• OE Water Pump, 11510393338? - $79.82 (Tischer BMW)
• 1 Gallon Coolant, 82141467704 - $18.48 (Local Dealer)

Autohausaz.com Parts

• Thermostat w/housing, 11531743017 - $34.30
• Radiator Cap, 17111742231 - $9.78
• Upper Radiator Hose, 11531743535 - $13.70
• Lower Radiator Hose, 11531247261 - $8.63
• Combo Vacuum/Coolant Hose, 11151247903 - $15.35
• Small Reservoir Hose, 11531743295 - $13.61
• Misc. Hose #1, 11531247398 - $8.17
• Misc. Hose #2, 64211387010 - $5.94
• Heater Hose #1, 64218391252 (or 64211394295 on 4/96+ cars*) - $5.50
• Heater Hose #2, 64211394291 - $6.23
• Plastic Coolant Connector #1 (Block), 11531714738 - $11.54
• O-Ring for Block Coolant Connector, 11531709157 - $1.15
• Plastic Coolant Connector #2 (Head), 11531743679 - $8.18
• Lower Intake Manifold Gasket, 11611734684 - $3.50
• Upper to Lower Manifold Gasket (2x), 11611247478 - $2.92 total
• Block Coolant Drain Seal Ring, 07119963200 - $0.12

*My car was a 3/1996 build, but it used the newer 4/1996+ hoses.

Parts Total, with shipping and tax: $374.92 .

Quick Links to RealOEM.com Diagrams

Plastic Coolant Connector #1 (Block) (http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=CG83&mospid=47506&btnr=11_1558&hg=11&fg=10)

Plastic Coolant Connector #2 (Head) (http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=CG83&mospid=47506&btnr=11_1561&hg=11&fg=15)

Water Pump / Thermostat (http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=CG83&mospid=47506&btnr=11_1566&hg=11&fg=35)

Main Radiator Hoses (http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=CG83&mospid=47506&btnr=11_1567&hg=11&fg=35)

Intake Manifold Gaskets (http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=CG83&mospid=47506&btnr=11_1569&hg=11&fg=40)

Radiator (http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=CG83&mospid=47506&btnr=17_0089&hg=17&fg=05)

Heater Hoses (http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=CG83&mospid=47506&btnr=64_0202&hg=64&fg=18)

And some new part pictures. Hoses, connectors, and gaskets.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/Cooling/hoses.jpg

eBay (Behr?) Radiator.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/Cooling/radiator.jpg

Close ups of block coolant connector.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/Cooling/coolant2a.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/Cooling/coolant2b.jpg

Close ups of head coolant connector.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/Cooling/connector1a.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/Cooling/connector1b.jpg

CirrusSR22

09-09-2007, 02:58 AM

The entire project is very involved, so a step-by-step guide is about impossible. I’ll try my best though!

Many parts need to be removed to have clear access to the radiator, water pump, and coolant connectors. Start by safely supporting your vehicle on jack stands of ramps. Disconnect the negative battery terminal.

In this picture I have removed the entire intake box, rubber intake boot, electric cooling fan and main intake tubing.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/Cooling/work1.jpg

Other angles of the exposed radiator.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/Cooling/work2.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/Cooling/work3.jpg

Next I removed the AC belt, and main serpentine belt to gain access to the water pump and pulley. The four main pully bolts were simple to remove, as long as the belt was still attached.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/Cooling/pump1.jpg

Here’s a pic of the old pump, after the pulley was removed.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/Cooling/pump2.jpg

Unfortunately I tapped the pully with a rubber mallet and it broke the pulley. I was not expecting the pulley to be plastic. Be careful! I eventually just pulled the pulley off by hand.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/Cooling/pump3.jpg

CirrusSR22

09-09-2007, 03:05 AM

Time to start into the intake manifold. Both the upper and lower sections need to be removed to access the coolant connectors as well as some of the coolant hoses.

Numerous electrical connections and vacuum hoses need to be removed for the upper manifold to come off. The throttle cable also need to be disconnected. There are 2 nuts and 1 long bolt holding the upper intake manifold on. Along with these are two other supports that need to be loosened, but not removed. Here's a picture of the upper mainfold pulled.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/Cooling/work4.jpg

tastade

09-09-2007, 03:39 AM

Thanks, that is a nice write up. I wish I photographed mine. I just did much of the same thing on my 1995 M42 while changing the starter. The sensors are a royal pain in the butt to unhook/and re-hook. Be sure to label some of them well, although it is somewhat clear where each one goes (use tape because permanent marker rubs off if you have grease on your fingers). I think it took me 15 hours to remove/reinstall the air intakes, all new hoses and misc, and the starter.

The flange in between the manifold (which also houses the crankcase vent valve) oddly has coolant running through it.
You don't have to take this off until you remove the lower manifold. The entire flange with coolant hoses attached (remove the breather hose from the PCV valve) will slide between the intake runners by the sensor "squid". The reason I call it a squid will become apparent when you have it taken off. I think the M44 has a better design for the squid that will let you disconnect it from the main wiring harness. For the flange, on mine, one hose from the flange attaches to the tubular plastic piece on the side of the block, and the other hose attaches to the head somewhere below the intake, if memory serves.

I think there was 9 or 10 sensors and the starter and alternator wires attached to the squid, including the reverse light switch, which had me fooled. I couldn't find what was holding the squid in place. I think all the connectors are: 2 ping sensors low in the block, 2 sensors just under the intake, 2 running from a harness around the front of the engine, 1 going by the alternator, 1 going to a vacuum valve by the charcoal canister, 1 to the reverse light switch, and 1 to the ICV. Then the alternator has a positive cables and a control signal wire, and the starter has two large positive cables, and two small control signal cables connected to it (grounds comes from the engine block). I think those are all the wires on the squid that I recall.

Also the two fuel lines going to the fuel rails make it a pain to remove the lower intake manifold as it hangs up when you try to pull it over them. You might remove the rubber hoses from them to make it easier. Also, remove the fuel injectors carefully so you don't chip them. You don't need to remove the clips from them if you don't want, they all pop in as a unit attached to the fuel rail (unbolt the fuel rail and pull all 4 off at once).

Finally, it makes it easier to connect/disconnect wires from the squid if you remove all the bolts holding the lower intake in place so you can lift it a few inches to gain more clearance. There are 5 or so bolts on the head side, mostly easily accessible, and two large bolts holding it to a bracket above the alternator. If you can't disconnect the squid from the main harness, you will likely have to remove the vent piece for the cabin air filters (see the knowledge base articles) to release the main engine wiring harness, and disconnect all the connectors by the fuse box and pull the harness out across the engine to the battery side of the car so it is out of the way. Those circular connectors have neat little clips that hold them to the body by the fuse box. Very easy to remove. If you do need to remove the harness (i.e. your squid doesn't detach from the main harness), I attached a drawing.

I should point out again, that I have the M42, and it appears your vehicle is slightly different under the intake, the squid might be much easier to remove in yours. I see your Idle Control valve (attaches to the air lines going to the fuel injectors) is in a different location towards the front of the engine. Mine was attached directly to the top of the squid, and I just see the air hose for yours going off to the side where you have it disconnected.

CirrusSR22

09-10-2007, 03:52 AM

The injector rail needs to come off before you remove the lower intake manifold. The electrical connections need to be disconnected, as well as the fuel lines. Depressurize your fuel system with a cold engine. Depress the thing(?) on the schraeder valve that's welded to the fuel rail. Have a rag ready to soak up fuel. Gently wiggle loose the entire fuel rail/injector/air hose assembly.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/Cooling/work5.jpg

With the fuel rail out of the way, the tangled mess of a electrical harness needs to be disconnected and removed. Unfortunately the wires run through the center of the lower intake manifold. The most of the connections are simple plugs, but you'll also need to remove three nuts & wires leading to the starter. There are also two nuts and wires leading to the alternator. They need to be removed as well. The starter wires are an absolute pain!

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/Cooling/work6.jpg

My-oh-my!! Look at my fuel injectors. :eek: I cleaned them up as gently as possible after this shot. Hopefully I didn't plug anything up....

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/Cooling/work7.jpg

Here's a shot after I have disconnected the wiring harness and folded it away (towards the USA driver's side)

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/Cooling/work8.jpg

I removed the intake manifold flange (with holds the PVC valve) by disconnecting the two coolant lines and the one vacuum line. The lower intake manifold was free to remove at this point. Only minimal wiggling is required to make it past the two fuel lines. The lower intake manifold and intake ports were absolutely CAKED with crud/carbon/whatever. I spent quite a while degunking the manifold, and spent a little time carefully cleaning the intake ports.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/Cooling/work9.jpg

CirrusSR22

09-10-2007, 04:01 AM

CirrusSR22

09-10-2007, 04:15 AM

Radiator and water pump time. Removing the radiator is pretty simple. Shove a small flathead screwdriver into the main clips (look for the arrow), then pull straight up on the clip. If you have an automatic like me, the trans cooler needs to be unscrewed from the main radiator. The are 4 sheet metal screws connecting them, and thankfully the trans line DO NOT need to be opened. Here's a shot of my tans cooler!! This one is sandwiched between the AC and main radiator, so I don't understand how it got so caked with junk. The AC condenser (?) in front wasn't very dirty at all.? Nice to know I've been running without a trans cooler for quite a long time.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/Cooling/work14.jpg

With the radiator out of the way, you now have pretty good access to work on the water pump. This is another tough one. I ended up breaking the old pump using the threaded holes to pull/press it out. It came out by gently prying it out with a hammer claw. I was pleased that the water pump bore was very clean and pretty much corrosion free.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/Cooling/work15.jpg

Old vs. New. I believe the old one was a Thyssen. The new one was straight from a dealer with BMW logo and all. They definitely were not the same part. Both had a plastic impeller.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/Cooling/work16.jpg

I lighly greased the water pump o-ring before installation. The pump requires quite a bit of effort to press in. The o-ring is quite meaty and gets compressed a fair amount.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/Cooling/work17.jpg

Now's a good time to replace your thermostat. I didn't because mine was replaced just a year ago after it failed (stuck open). Here's the trans cooler attached to the new radiator. I cleaning as good as I could without backflushing it with a hose. That would have been ideal, but the work was done in a garage. Some carb cleaner and a brush did a fair job.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/Cooling/work18.jpg

CirrusSR22

09-10-2007, 04:30 AM

And she sleeps. Kiboshed for the evening due to an incorrect hose. From the realoem.com and bmwfans.info diagrams, there was a coolant hose switch in 4/1996. My car is a 3/1996, so I ordered the older version. Turns out I have the newer version. I went this far, and dug this deep, I figured I ought to get the correct hose and do the job correctly the first time. Hopefully a dealer will have it in stock tomorrow morning.....

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/Cooling/work19.jpg

CirrusSR22

09-11-2007, 03:57 AM

Day 3. Thankfully a local dealer had the heater hose in stock so I as able to finish the project today. I didn't take any pictures as everything is just in reverse. Just make triple-sure you have tightened all the hose clamps, and made all the electrical connections. I filled the system with 50/50 BMW Coolant/Distilled water and bled the system following these instructions: http://www.understeer.com/waterpump.shtml I've tried the procedure in the Bentley manual, but it doesn't seem to work too well.

If nothing else, this project was good for just cleaning out that lower intake manifold. I wish I had taken a picture. There was a good 2mm - 3mm thick coating of gunk. After the cleaning, the car seems to rev smoother in the upper RPM range, and it seems to rev more eagerly.

One more recommendation. If you don't buy all-new hose clamps, make sure you oil or grease the threads on the old clamps. I've found the light corrosion the old ones get makes the clamps hard to tighted accurately. The new clamps from the dealer have a coating of oil on them.

CirrusSR22

09-11-2007, 07:11 AM

tastade, Thank you for your input. The M44 squid is still a tough bugger, but it seem a little easier than the M42.

From memory, here's what needed disconnecting.

• The starter was the hardest, with three nuts holding on four wires. The fourth was a red battery(?) cable that got paired up with the larger wire in the squid. It helped to remove the fuel rail first and install the rail last to gain access to the starter wire. I needed to work from above and below the car to access them all.

• The alternator wires were pretty easy. Just two nuts/wire with fairly easy access.

• The knock sensors were not part of the squid. They ran to the main harness under the intake manifold. I didn't need to touch them.

• The camshaft postion sensor just plugged into the side of the squid body, so it was easy to deal will.

• One more plug into the side of the squid body, but I forget what this was leading to.?

• One plug to the DISA

• One plug to the oil pressure switch

• Four plugs leading to the fuel injectors. These were all topside, so they were easy.

• One plug to the idle control valve. Another topside easy one.

• One plug to the throttle position. Topside and easy.

• One plug leading to something on the side of the head. I think it was a temp gauge/switch of some sorts.

elfhearse

09-17-2007, 02:22 AM

I'm rebuilding my cooling system right now....a few observations:

* Check the vacuum hoses on the distribution "tree" for the fuel injectors. Several of my hoses were cracked at each end. I used Goodyear 7.8mm fuel/emission hose from Autozone to replace the four hoses.

http://members.roadfly.com/anvis6/injectortree.JPG

*I have 96K miles on my car and the coolant block and head manifold were both in good condition. Water pump had a tiny bit of play in it, but looked to be in good shape too.
*Removing the throttle and cruise cable were the biggest PITA so far, followed closely by the wiring harness "squid". Not looking forward to reinstalling the lower manifold / wiring harness and installing all the connectors and mounting hardware.

tastade

09-17-2007, 03:09 AM

*Removing the throttle and cruise cable were the biggest PITA so far, followed closely by the wiring harness "squid". Not looking forward to reinstalling the lower manifold / wiring harness and installing all the connectors and mounting hardware.
The throttle cable shouldn't be hard to remove. You pull the throttle slightly open (by hand) and unclip the end. Once you have the end unclipped, you snap the cylinder on the end out from the clip holding it. The clip that was holding the cylinder on the end of the cable to the throttle actuator will come off the cable through a slit on the side if you pry it open slightly. Once this is done the cable with the cylinder can be threaded through the throttle actuator hole.

This still leaves the bracket. You slide the throttle adjuster screw out of the rubber grommet, then you pop the rubber grommet out from the bracket. Once the grommet is released from the bracket you can pull everything through the bracket hole, and the throttle cable is free to do as you please.

CirrusSR22

09-17-2007, 03:57 AM

Here's a hose that fell apart on me. It runs from the Carbon Filter to the "Fuel tank breather valve". That then runs to the throttle body, right below the ICV. I'm not quite sure if this hose carries a vacuum or not, but it's not a standard rubber hose. Kind of a corrugated plastic flexi pipe.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/Cooling/work20.jpg

elfhearse

09-27-2007, 03:54 AM

problem....
everything back together....turn ignition and just get a whirring* sound from the starter solenoid- no ignition/engine won't turn over.

update: check TIS and troubleshoot: ~14Volts at battery and hot (red cable) starter solenoid. Ignition to start to measure volts and terminal 50 (small 14 ga. black wires at solenoid) and they read ~14 volts too.
Ohm meter check between battery negative & starter housing: ~0
=
replace solenoid.
UPDATE Part Deux: (I am a D*ckhead/or/don't wire ur starter after a 14 hour day & waiting two weeks to reinstall)
Got the remanufactured starter/PB Blaster soaking for about 5 hours and finally got the (2) E12 torx bolts off. In my late night wiring harness install, I had placed both "small" black wires on the post @ 11 o'clock (#30) = symptoms described above. Well, I have a nice "new" starter to go with the cooling system.

For future reference if anyone (like me) forgets where the starter wires go, here is a description.
Facing the starter solenoid from front of car:
(1) 14 ga. black wire mounts on pin at ~ 11 o'clock (#30)
(1) Red heavy ga. wire from battery mounts on large post at 2 o'clock
(1) 12 ga. black wire mounts on pin at ~ 5 o'clock (#50) below red cable.
:redface:a bit embarrassing to post...but it may help the next guy

CirrusSR22

09-28-2007, 04:03 AM

Hmm... That's too bad. I doubt you wired the starter wrong, because it's just about impossible since all three terminals are different sizes. The big one is the only one that had two wires to the terminal. Good Luck!!

elfhearse

09-28-2007, 09:48 PM

and the starter has two large positive cables, and two small control signal cables connected to it (grounds comes from the engine block)

tastade's comment above..... I had the two large hot cables (battery in and alternator out)...
and the two small black wires connect to the small fitting on the left side of the solenoid when facing engine.
I don't recall a third fitting on the starter solenoid but a few posts mention that..only two connection posts IIRC....
CONFIRM the 3rd terminal??????

martin02

11-07-2007, 05:57 AM

This is a great write-up! Thanks for putting it together.

I am in the process of doing the same project, but I'm having trouble getting the lower connector (the one on the block) to seal. What's the trick to get that fat O-ring to slide into the block?

Thanks!
Martin

CirrusSR22

11-07-2007, 06:20 AM

I used a little bit of white lithium grease on all the o-rings... Both connectors and the water pump. If I remember correctly, that block connector o-ring made the connector push itself out. Not sure if that makes sense, but the squishiness of the rubber doesn't make the connector stay in via friction. I believe I wiggled the connector so it was flush with the block, held it tightly against the block, then tightened the bolts to hold it in position.

martin02

11-25-2007, 03:22 AM

First off, a big thanks to CirrusSR22 for the initial write-up, and to the others who posted as well. This was my first major project on my '98 ti and the information was invaluable.

Now that I've finished this project I thought I'd share my experience in the hope that it helps others. I initially decided to do this job because my thermostat was stuck open, but I also wanted replace the plastic connector pipes and radiator before something bad happened. My car has about 98K miles on it.

Tools
A good 1/4-inch socket set is essential. Gear wrenches are nice. And I had to make my own water pump puller too.

Head Connector Pipe
Yeah, this is a difficult little bugger. I was able to remove it myself, but installation was another matter--my hands are just too big. This is where a lovely and talented assistant can be big help. I talked my wife into laying on a board placed on top of the engine. She was able to reach behind the head get the connector bolts started--I pre-connected the hoses. If you've been waiting for reason to buy a set of metric Gear Wrenches, now's the time. A 12-mm gear wrench made it a lot easier to tighten the top bolt.

Water Pump
When I tried to use the extra bolt holes to remove the water pump, the top part of the flange broke and then I discovered that the head of the bolt wouldn't clear the water pump housing on the bottom of my pump. Damn, the water pump didn't want to give up without a fight. I ended up making my own puller to get the water pump out. I kinda enjoy challenges like this.

Broken water pump flange.
http://www.2002tii-restoration.org/images/waterpump_03.jpg

I welded some nuts on to a piece of 1/8 plate and cut a notch in the plate so fit over the pump shaft. I put some shims between the bolts and the timing chain cover so I wouldn't damage it. However,my first attempt at a puller wasn't strong enough.
http://www.2002tii-restoration.org/images/waterpump_01.jpg

I reinforced puller with a piece of 1 inch square tube. The pump popped right out.
http://www.2002tii-restoration.org/images/waterpump_02.jpg

Reassembly
I made some goofs that really cost me a lot of time.

I didn't use any lube on the connector O-rings; I should have. When I filled the engine with coolant, the block connector started leaking because the O-ring didn't seat. The 12 V battery cable messed with me too; I managed to put everything together the first time without connecting it to the starter. Doh! Oh-well, I was going to have to remove the lower intake anyway to deal with the leaking connector.

After the second reassembly, the engine wouldn't idle and was making a loud sucking noise near the injectors. I suspected that the air jacket system had a leak. So the upper half of the intake came back off and I replaced all the old hose (just like an earlier post in this thread). The hoses didn't seem to have any cracks, but replacing it helped.

This time the engine ran fine and there weren't any water leaks, but now both fuel fittings on the fuel rail were dripping. Yay! I got to take the upper intake off one more time. To get the fuel fittings tight enough, I had to put a cheater bar on my flare wrench.

The third time was the charm: The engine ran, there were no major coolant leaks, and I wasn't about to burn my car up, but I did have to tighten the radiator hoses a bit.

I'm glad I did this project; I now have heat--a good thing now that we've got daytime temps in the 20s and 30s. I've got a lot more confidence working on the intake side of the engine, and that gnarly squid doesn't scare me anymore.

Lessons Learned

Don't forget to hook up the 12 V cable at the starter.
Use lube on the O-rings, white lithium grease, silicone grease, whatever.
Get the fuel lines good and tight.
Get the hose clamps nice and tight too.

Cheers,
Martin

cooljess76

12-03-2007, 06:43 PM

My pump broke exactly like yours and it was siezed in the block. I used a pair of channel lock pliers to rip it out. Took about 30 seconds. I wouldn't advise threading anything into or prying against your block. It can crack just as easily as your water pump did.

I wouldn't hammer on it either, it's designed to slide straight in and out. If you knock it crooked, you're putting a lot of stress on the block.

CirrusSR22

02-16-2008, 11:02 PM

My car has been leaking a little bit of coolant ever since I did this. I just took my alternator off (it died :( ) and saw where my leak was coming from; the bigger plastic connector which attaches to the side of the block. It's the same one I had to force on, and the same one "martin02" had trouble with.

I'm not up for taking the whole intake manifold off, so I think I'm gonna clean the area and use some RTV silicone to seal it. Just a heads-up for those doing this project. You might want to add some sealant to both of the plastic connectors upon assembly.

elfhearse

02-21-2008, 02:01 AM

Water pump FYI: make sure there is coolant added around the pump prior to starting the engine, after completing the project. If you run the new water pump dry you can damage the mechanical seal in the pump (which I think I did)
I've had a small coolant seep from the water pump and a spray pattern from it when the engines running. The water pump has a weep hole for coolant to seep out if the seal is leaking. The leak has slowed to almost nothing after the first 1,000 miles but I assume the mechanical seal was damaged during the initial startup. The Graf tech. manual says a small seep is normal in the beginning but I'm watching and waiting....crap, another $60 :rolleyes:

pnchafin

03-21-2008, 02:17 PM

Everyone read this before you remove your water pump.

On the M44 water pump, you don't need to fab a tool or use a puller to remove the water pump.

If you will look at the pump (while installed), you will notice additional threaded bolt holes. Thank god for the germans and their thoughtfulness for maintainers.

1. Remove your mount bolts
2. Use your mount bolts in the extra threaded holes
(tighten them, they will push against the block, removing your water pump with much ease)

Your welcome.

pnchafin

03-21-2008, 03:12 PM

If you happen to notice the block coolant line under the intake leaking, it would be highly recommended that you change it.

These things have been known to rot and wear over time and temp. I've seen picture after picture of these things falling apart, flange deterioration, nipple deterioration. I had this happen to me, everytime the engine temp rose above normal, the hose would blow off of it.

It's worth the money (expensive plastic) and effort to unbolt your intake and pull it back enough to replace it.

While you're at it, you might consider replacing the one on the back of the cylinder head. Both are a little hard to get to, especially on a Z3 however; well worth your time and piece of mind.

PeteN95

03-24-2008, 05:51 AM

Thanks for the great article, CirrusSR22, that is quite a job. I did mine today, about 11hrs. I found the rear fitting bolts were easier to get from below. The parts list was very handy too.

bimmern00b

04-07-2008, 11:57 PM

I am in the middle of doing this since either a hose or the cylinder head connector gave out while I was on I-95 (good thing I was close to home!). But one thing that I have found out while removing my injectors is that the insulation on one of the injector wires has split. I want to replace it but I am having a hard time finding the part number on realoem. Does anyone here know what that part number is?

5litrarag

04-14-2008, 05:55 PM

ok... I too broke the top part of the water pump off when I tried to remove it with the mount bolts.

Anyone have any other ideas on how to remove this POS w/o making the problem worse? Otherwise its going to the local BMW wrench and so they can remove it and then I'll wheel it back out and finish in his parking lot.

Stupid flimsy @ss pump... I thought these cars were supposed to be better than my Mustangs, Nothing like this has ever happened on one of them.

b.u.ti-ful

04-14-2008, 06:54 PM

cooljesse said to take a giant pliers and give it a little twist in some other thread awhile back.

5litrarag

04-14-2008, 07:33 PM

cooljesse said to take a giant pliers and give it a little twist in some other thread awhile back.

yeah I dont have a set of really big vice grip pliers though.... Guess I'll have to go buy some and spray it down with PB Blaster.

elfhearse

04-18-2008, 01:40 AM

5litrarag

Did you try using the mounting bolts in other flange holes to lever out the pump, as in thread #23 ?? (pnchafin post)

5litrarag

04-21-2008, 02:00 AM

5litrarag

Did you try using the mounting bolts in other flange holes to lever out the pump, as in thread #23 ?? (pnchafin post)

yeah...thats how the flange itself broke. Following the removal directions. :mad:

I haven't had anymore time to fool with it yet.

trickiekid

06-14-2008, 03:57 PM

Ok, i just rebuilt my cooling system and now it won't start at all :( I have an abs light and when I turn the key to start, nada, nothing. I double checked all the connections when I was reinstalling the squid, the only thing that I am questioning is the starter solenoid. I have the three prongs, 11, 1, and 5 o'clock positions (roughly) I have the two positive on the post for the two wires @ the 11 o'clock, the small ground at at the small post @ 1 o'clock and the fat ground at the 5 o'clock. Is this right? any other suggestions? My dad is borrowing my peake tool, I am going to see him tomorrow and take it back, any other suggestions? TIA

elfhearse

06-23-2008, 02:51 AM

I double checked all the connections when I was reinstalling the squid, the only thing that I am questioning is the starter solenoid. I have the three prongs, 11, 1, and 5 o'clock positions

See post #13

For future reference if anyone (like me) forgets where the starter wires go, here is a description.
Facing the starter solenoid from front of car:
(1) 14 ga. black wire mounts on pin at ~ 11 o'clock (#30)
(1) Red heavy ga. wire from battery mounts on large post at 2 o'clock
(1) 12 ga. black wire mounts on pin at ~ 5 o'clock (#50) below red cable

trickiekid

06-23-2008, 02:13 PM

I saw that and ended up being something else. Here is the link http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=22469

jwm

09-08-2008, 12:01 AM

Did this job recently on my nearly 140,000-mile 1997 ti. In no particular order, some notes/tips:

* I removed the radiator and cooling fan immediately after draining the coolant. I'm pretty skinny and was able to stand in the engine compartment, which was a lot easier than bending over the whole time.

* The valve cover gasket was oozing and I planned to replace it, so I considered removing the valve cover before replacing the hard plastic connecting pipe at the rear of the head in hope of gaining easier access. I decided against it since it didn't seem to get me *that* much extra room, but if you have large hands, it might help. You'd probably want to replace the valve cover as soon as you're done with the water pipe, since there's still a lot of cooling and intake bits to replace at that point and having something fall unnoticed into the cam area would not be awesome.

* It doesn't seem possible to disconnect the M44 squid from the main wiring harness to leave the various sensor connectors in place while removing the lower intake. Most of the harness disconnects with screw-type quick release connectors near the engine compartment fuse box, but part of the harness (IIRC) passes through the firewall with no connectors. I didn't spend a lot of time pursuing this, so I might be missing a way around it.

* I removed the alternator to get easier access to the squid connectors and starter wiring. As a result, the only time I had to get under the car was to drain the coolant. The alternator is a bit of a pain to push out of (and back into) its mounting points, so it might be just as useful to remove the secondary air pump (toward the US driver's side, essentially next to the alternator). The air pump is a lot easier to get out and back in; just two or three easy-to-reach fasteners and it swings out of the way, opening a large space you can use to reach under the lower intake. This could also help during starter replacement, since it might be easier to access the starter's electrical connections from the top. I don't remember if the opening is large enough to remove the starter itself this way.

* Watch the tabs on the coolant temperature sensor (under the intake near the front of the block). I snapped one of mine off removing the electrical connector and decided to replace it, since it's ~US$20 and seems a bit harder to R&R with the intake in place.

* I forgot there's an upper-to-lower intake gasket on both the top and bottom of the PCV shim and only ordered one at first. Oops.

* This is a great time to lube your steering bearing (http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=245961) if your steering squeaks since topside access is easy with everything out of the way.

* I also broke one of the water pump flange ears off when trying to press it out. Reusing the water pump fasteners to press it out is tough, since they aren't long enough for the heads to clear the water pump body when you thread one of them in. If you can find them, get some long M6 fasteners to use instead. I finally stood in the engine compartment, grabbed the pump with both hands (a claw hammer or some screwdrivers to pull on the pulley flange was probably involved at some point) and rocked/pulled backwards, trying to put as much of my body weight on the pump as possible while keeping it fairly square to the block. Curse a lot while doing this; it must have helped since the pump eventually popped out.

* Getting the new pump in was straightforward; again, standing in the engine compartment and pushing into the new pump helped. As CirrusSR22 mentioned, so does a light coating of white lithium grease on all the o-rings. The water pump and both plastic connecting pipes popped right in.

* The new pump (bought from the dealer) had a plastic impeller.

* If your car has ASC+T, there's a second throttle body upstream (toward the airbox) of the main throttle body. It operates in reverse; when the actuator pulls on the cable, the throttle plate closes, blocking intake air and decreasing power output. Nifty.

* My injectors were nearly as dirty as those pictured here. I cleaned them up carefully with some q-tips and solvent and have suffered no noticable ill effects. My lower intake also had a decent coating of oil and coke; intake cleaner sprayed copiously did a nice job of cleaning it up.

* I also used the understeer bleeding procedure. I was a little nervous about this since I've heard of people who have bled and bled their cars only to still have air in the system. Some have mentioned that it helps to raise the car to help direct air bubbles toward the radiator, so I tried that first. Fill the raditor up *as much as possible* before starting the engine, since the coolant level drops *fast*. All in all, it was pretty straightforward and I probably bled more than I had to, but once I decided I'd bled enough, the car was fine cockpit heat- and engine temperature-wise. It's helpful to keep the bleeder screw mostly down (don't remove it or loosen it too much, just crack it enough so coolant can escape). This seems to help keep a little pressure on the coolant and lets the maximum amount of air escape while losing the minimum amount of coolant. I bought two gallons of coolant just in case, and only needed one. At the end, I added 3-4 ounces of distilled water only (instead of mixing with coolant) since I didn't want to crack open the second gallon and only needed a small amount to bring the radiator up to the cold level.

* Relieving the fuel pressure wasn't a big deal. I had let the car sit overnight, and I'm not sure how much bleed-back there is. Cracking the fuel line fasteners loose resulted in a smallish dribble of fuel, easily caught with a rag or two stuffed underneath the two hard lines. The Bentley manual says you can also apply compressed air to the Schrader valve on the fuel rail to force any fuel back into the tank.

* LABEL. PHOTOGRAPH. DIAGRAM. Plenty of people preach this and it seems so simple, but I always find myself wanting to skimp on this, and it generally winds up hurting me. Having a sketch of the starter and alternator wiring connections was helpful. If you think you're wasting too much time taking photos or making notes, you're probably doing the right amount. :smile:

churchill53

12-04-2008, 09:10 PM

Got to say that this tutorial was of huge assistance, as am in the middle of doing this job on my wifes 318ti, and guess what? Bang on 130,000 miles which seems to be about the limit for these connectors! I have discovered that being a RHD model, the lower inlet manifold does not require full removal from the engine bay, and therefore only minor wiring disconnection is required. I have not needed to disconnect the solenoid or starter, and the space permitted by sliding the manifold off the mounting bolts still allows me to change the connector, manifold gaskets etc.

zoner

12-21-2008, 02:17 AM

I just replaced my water pump today and had the same problems that apparently many others have had regarding breaking the threaded tabs off of the pump while trying to remove. Thanks to Cirrus, the claw hammer trick worked perfectly and the pump came right out.

One question I did have (for anyone that cares to answer), The thermostat that I installed was a 92* (I was told that was the OEM temp) but the one I pulled out was an 88* Thyssen (apparently, the original thermostat and pump- 153k miles!!) The gauge still rides right in the center. Should I be concerned about the temp. difference?

E36BeeminZ

08-19-2009, 04:57 AM

Hey im doing an engine swap from a 1994 m42 318i to a 1995 m42 318i. How did you guys get the "squid" engine harness off without being able to disconnect it like the M44 one? I cant find where the lower wires that come from the bottom of the harness go to? How to I reach them? I was working from above so do i need to sneak in through the bottom? THANKS ALOT!!

CirrusSR22

09-23-2009, 03:04 AM

Last winter I started having trouble with very cold starts with my ti. I think I tracked it down to a vacuum leak somewhere, so I just did work to fix that. Since it involves taking the engine apart, like doing the cooling system, I highly recommend replacing the following parts while you're in there as they are rather cheap.

The goal for this project was to replace every vacuum hose and o-ring that could lead to a vacuum leak in cold weather.

Parts:
• Fuel Injector O-Rings: 13641743377 (4x)
• Fuel Line O-Ring (replace, as long as the fuel rail is off): 13531247953
• DISA O-Ring: 11611437690
• Vacuum hose between the intake boot and injector vacuum hose "Tree": 13411247782 (no ASC part#)
• 3' of Goodyear 5/16" (7.9mm) Fuel/Emission Hose, Auto Zone. Approx $1.19/ft.
http://www.goodyearep.com/productsdetail.aspx?id=10526

• 1' of Goodyear 5/16" (7.9mm) Fuel Injection Hose, AutoZone. Approx. $3.39/ft
http://www.goodyearep.com/ProductsDetail.aspx?id=5144
-----------------

I replaced the roughly 3" segment of fuel-rail hose with the Goodyear Fuel Injection hose. As you can see from the link above, it's a special high pressure, specially lined hose just for fuel injection supply. Do not use the standard fuel hose. That's for the vacuum work.

The top hose is the higher quality injection hose and the bottom is the emission hose.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/vac2.jpg
--

Here's the new Goodyear injection hose on the left next to the little segment that connects to the fuel rail. This is an optional step, but it's worth it when you're in there. I think this hose can also be used when replacing your fuel filter. I know the hose at my fuel filter connections is in bad shape.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/vac1.jpg
--

Next I replaced the fuel injector o-rings that seal the injector to the manifold. Surprisingly my injectors are MUCH cleaner at 185,000 than they were at 158,000 when I did the orginal project. I've been using the new BP gas with Invigorate a lot lately. Maybe that actually works?
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/vac4.jpg
--
Old, squished O-ring.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/vac5.jpg
--

New, fresh o-ring, lubed with brake caliper grease. I hear that's a good choice for injectors since it's rubber safe.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/vac9.jpg

CirrusSR22

09-23-2009, 03:11 AM

Next I tackled the injector vacuum "tree" which is getting notorious for hard, brittle hoses that crack. See elfhearse's picture above! Mine were not as bad, but were definitely starting to crack. They were also getting extremely hard.

Following elfhearse's advice, I found the Goodyear 5/16" (7.9mm) fuel/emission hose to be a perfect fit. I suggest slicing the old hoses off with a razor.

Cut replacement hoses from your 3' section of emision hose and reassemble the tree. You'll need no more than 2' of the Goodyear emission hose which will be under $2.50. You can also buy a new tree assembly from BMW for about $26. Replace the larger vacuum hose that runs from the tree to the intake boot as well.

Orginal tree.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/vac3.jpg
--

Hoses removed
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/vac6.jpg
--
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/vac7.jpg

New hoses fitted. The tightly bent hose is a little finicky because the factory hose is molded to that curve, whereas the emission hose kinks a bit when you bend it that tight. It takes a little squeezing/working of the hose to remove that slight kink. That's the only downside I can think of by using the Goodyear emision hose vs. a new factory tree. Thankfully you can make the curves of your replacement hose larger than the factory hoses as there's no need to make an EXACT reproduction of the factory hose. All this is doing is carrying a little vacuum.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/vac8.jpg
--

After that, I used the remaining portion of the emission hose to replace the section that runs from the throttle body to the "fuel tank breather valve". Not sure what this valve does, but it's electrically controlled and it sits between this vacuum hose and the carbon filter.

The hose in question:
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/vac11.jpg
--
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/vac10.jpg

Simply replace this hose with the remaining emission hose. The original hose is molded to keep it from touching the alternator. I found I needed to use a little electrical tape (or zip tie) and attach it to the bottom of the intake boot to provide clearance from the alternator.

While everything was out, I also replaced the o-ring that seals the DISA valve to the lower intake manifold. Just remove the three bolts holding on the DISA valve, use a pick to remove the old o-ring, and install the new one using some synthetic caliper grease. Make sure you clean the bore the DISA valve goes into first with a clean rag.

Also, use a pick and replace the tiny o-ring that's in the hard fuel rail connection. Probably not necessary, but might as well as you have everything apart.

DLag

11-27-2009, 05:57 AM

Took advantage of the long weekend and tackled this job. It makes it easier to take the valve cover off, I changed the valve cover while I was at it. btw thanks for the info.

CirrusSR22

12-08-2009, 12:24 AM

As an update, I highly recommend using some sealant (like RTV silicone) on the mating surfaces of the two plastic coolant connectors. Both of mine have leaked since I have done this.

I think I'm going to replace these again this coming spring to fix leaks. I'm going to use a film of rubber safe grease on the bore and o-ring so they slide in better. I'll also use silicone where the machined face of the block & head meets the face of the plastic connector. Or, possibly just use silcone all over as both a lubricant and sealant.

Scootsalng

03-12-2010, 06:00 AM

Everyone talks about replacing the water pump as tough, it appears mine 1998 1.9l has a cam chain cover that covers the left flange of the water pump. Nobody has talked about that being an issue.. I already broke one of the screw tabs and am worried to death to really mess anything else up.. I need a little guidance from the PROS! Thanks, Scott :confused:

spidertri

03-12-2010, 06:33 AM

I have a '98 and once the plastic pulley was off the water pump there was nothing else blocking it. Not sure what you are talking about, maybe a picture would help?

Mr.Squeelerz

04-26-2010, 04:37 AM

I've been having fun with this project, but I hit a snag with the block coolant connector. The new one appears to be defective. It will not seat to the block. There is a 1/4 inch gap almost all the way around, so it CLEARLY will not seal. Not even going to attempt modifying anything to make it work. I prefer this part to be genuine BMW. The URO brand looks to have a poor mold design.

My old head connector was rotted beyond belief. Pretty much crumbled in my hands.

Tyler

04-26-2010, 04:36 PM

CirrusSR22

04-26-2010, 09:25 PM

I have a question regarding the radiator.... If i missed this in here my bad.

When removing the radiator you lose ATF (automatic transmission fluid) maybe a pint or so, how do you replace the ATF which you lose? There is no dipstick for this to refill since it's technically lifetime fluid.

That's my ? since i have a new radiator to put in this weekend.

Unless the design changed over the years, you shouldn't have to open the ATF system at all. The little ATF radiator unscrews from the man radiator then rescrews to the new one. If you did need to open it, here's how to properly fill it: http://www.ge39.com/files/SD92-114.pdf

You basically make sure the fluid is at 30C - 50C with the engine running and the trans in park. Remove the fill plug and fill until it overflows. No dipstick, unfortunately (stupidly).

CirrusSR22

04-26-2010, 09:28 PM

Mr.Squeelerz

04-26-2010, 09:39 PM

Yep....fit exactly that bad.. You must have gotten one like mine?
http://318ti.org/forum/showpost.php?p=258493&postcount=49

Tyler

04-27-2010, 06:50 PM

Unless the design changed over the years, you shouldn't have to open the ATF system at all. The little ATF radiator unscrews from the man radiator then rescrews to the new one. If you did need to open it, here's how to properly fill it: http://www.ge39.com/files/SD92-114.pdf

You basically make sure the fluid is at 30C - 50C with the engine running and the trans in park. Remove the fill plug and fill until it overflows. No dipstick, unfortunately (stupidly).

Thanks for the info, i'll find out Sat weather permitting..

New England is the new Seattle,WA.. We get all the rain and they prob get all the sun now..lol

tiFreak

04-28-2010, 12:16 AM

New England is the new Seattle,WA.. We get all the rain and they prob get all the sun now..lol

it's snowing in VT right now :frown:

Mr.Squeelerz

05-31-2010, 05:39 AM

bbbmw

07-11-2010, 01:10 AM

Did I understand Cirrus correctly - that when you put in the new tubes (OEM BMW), put a layer of silicone sealer around the plastic neck where it meets the block, to guarantee a tight (non-leaking) seal?

Just for grins, does anyone have an opinion on why BMW would produce a plastic coolant tube, instead of a metal one? I would just feel better knowing...

djfiend

09-18-2010, 04:33 AM

I strongly suggest getting a BMW manufactured Coolant block connector....unless you like major catastrophe's waiting to happen at any time. The aftermarket piece I received from Autohausaz.com was total garbage (would not seat properly), so I ordered a BMW one and finally got around to putting it on. The BMW piece fits like it was engineered to! Talk about piece of mind! The aftermarket one will probably work better as a drum-weed pipe if you like to smoke..though I don't, so it's taking up space in a landfill somewhere.

(the image I stole from the first page is for reference only)
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/Cooling/coolant2a.jpg

+1 on this advice as I had a non OEM part fail on me within a year. Aug of '09 is when I refreshed my entire cooling system. Within the last couple months I noticed coolant puddling on my garage floor only after the car would sit over night. After looking over everything I noticed coolant was pooling on the block under the the block connector. I did notice the gap between the block and connector but assumed the o-ring had failed prematurely. So if yours does not does sit flush it will fail within a matter of time. This time I replaced with a OEM BMW part and it does sit flush with the block, so unless you want to go through the headache of removing the intake manifold again make sure to get the OEM block connector and save yourself the trouble.

Entropyman

10-18-2010, 03:32 PM

Thank you guys for this information. I received a URO brand connector from Pelican Parts and it had the same issue. Fortunately, due to these posts, I was aware of the issue and checked the part before I installed it. You guys saved me at least two days worth of time and I REALLY appreciate it.

signature sound

11-11-2010, 04:53 AM

I was a little intimidated at tackling this project, but the write up settled my fears. I decided to make a catch can to help eliminate that crud all in the intake and injectors. Just waiting on the valve cover gasket and I should have it all back together. The catch can will be mounted between the motor and radiator fan. Its perfect spot since the cold air will help condense the oil and keep it in the can. Plus its about the ony open space in there! The PCV on this car is BASICALLY the same as any other right?

Everything went back together very well, and I labled every SECTION of the harnesses, so now I am stuck with ONE LOUSY CONNECTOR that I cant find a home for.

Can you guys please help me out? Heres a picture of the connector in question:

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr344/brianrlawlor_photobucket/1998%20BMW%20318Ti%20winter%20beater/DSC00519-1.jpg
http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr344/brianrlawlor_photobucket/1998%20BMW%20318Ti%20winter%20beater/DSC00518.jpg

Heres the catch can:
http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr344/brianrlawlor_photobucket/1998%20BMW%20318Ti%20winter%20beater/bmwcatchcan1.jpg

jm318ti

11-13-2010, 04:45 AM

Hi all-
The head coolant connector broke on my 96. Its really great that this was well documented. Does the lower intake manifold need to come off to replace this?
I do not think I have the skills to do this.... Is this a job that any shop can do or would it be best to take it to a BMW specialist?

Also I am in NYC- Any reputable shops in manhattan ( other than the dealers)

Thanks--

Joe

Mr.Squeelerz

11-13-2010, 06:32 AM

I was a little intimidated at tackling this project, but the write up settled my fears. I decided to make a catch can to help eliminate that crud all in the intake and injectors. Just waiting on the valve cover gasket and I should have it all back together. The catch can will be mounted between the motor and radiator fan. Its perfect spot since the cold air will help condense the oil and keep it in the can. Plus its about the ony open space in there! The PCV on this car is BASICALLY the same as any other right?

Everything went back together very well, and I labled every SECTION of the harnesses, so now I am stuck with ONE LOUSY CONNECTOR that I cant find a home for.

Can you guys please help me out? Heres a picture of the connector in question:

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr344/brianrlawlor_photobucket/1998%20BMW%20318Ti%20winter%20beater/DSC00519-1.jpg
http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr344/brianrlawlor_photobucket/1998%20BMW%20318Ti%20winter%20beater/DSC00518.jpg

[/IMG]

Is your DISA controller connected?

Hi all-
The head coolant connector broke on my 96. Its really great that this was well documented. Does the lower intake manifold need to come off to replace this?
I do not think I have the skills to do this.... Is this a job that any shop can do or would it be best to take it to a BMW specialist?

Also I am in NYC- Any reputable shops in manhattan ( other than the dealers)

Thanks--

Joe

You will want to take both upper and lower intake off.

It's an easy job. Just a little involved in some spots but nothing that should intimidate the average Joe.

signature sound

11-13-2010, 07:53 AM

Is your DISA controller connected?

Yep. Its connected. So is the fuel air vent valve. The vent valve was never disconnected, so I know that one is right. This one doesnt quite reach the DISA anyway. I was hoping by referencing where this connector pig tails, it would be easy to reference where it goes to. It splits off right where the loom attaches to the DISA. I have the loom back in its original spot because its snapped in where its indents are.

Are there any other possibilities you may suggest? I can take more photos if needed??

bob_bmw_101

11-15-2010, 05:59 PM

I think that is the oil sending unit connector. Look at the back of the oul can near the base

jm318ti

11-18-2010, 09:22 PM

Is your DISA controller connected?

You will want to take both upper and lower intake off.

It's an easy job. Just a little involved in some spots but nothing that should intimidate the average Joe.

Mr,squeelerz--
I'm already kind of intimidated-- I may give it a try. I was able to get to the connector by removing the battery box and reaching in under there. I was able to remove the bolts holding the connector to the engine and loose the clamp on the smaller hose. The bigger hose was already broken off so i wont need to do that.

1)How does the connecter come off? Does it just pop out or is there alot force required to remove it? Is thiis connector reachable from under the car?
I haven't crawled under there and tried yet.

2) lets say I do get these hoses off- Will I be able to reattach them easily?

3) Is there anyone in NYC that is capable helping out and remove the intake manifold and related parts to get this properly? I'd be happy to pay you for your time (a couple hundred dollars?) and save myself alot of frustration!!

Thanks,

Joe

signature sound

11-19-2010, 06:44 AM

I wish I lived close by. I would be more than happy to help for free. I have to admit I was intimidated at first as well. I am too cheap and stubborn to trust it to anyone otherwise. But after firing up the car when it was all done, I am so glad to say it works great. The info on this forum has been the only thing I can attribute the repair a success.

I say go for it. Its a matter of just undoing bolts and sliding off a few hoses. Take a mental note as you go. Snap lots of pictures at each step, document as you tape and lable each connector and its home. Then after you get the repair done, just reverse the order. I took one short cut and had a straggler, but the generous people on here were able to help. So dont worry and just do it. Help is just a click away if you get stuck.

Mr.Squeelerz

11-19-2010, 06:54 AM

Mr,squeelerz--
I'm already kind of intimidated-- I may give it a try. I was able to get to the connector by removing the battery box and reaching in under there. I was able to remove the bolts holding the connector to the engine and loose the clamp on the smaller hose. The bigger hose was already broken off so i wont need to do that.

1)How does the connecter come off? Does it just pop out or is there alot force required to remove it? Is thiis connector reachable from under the car?
I haven't crawled under there and tried yet.

2) lets say I do get these hoses off- Will I be able to reattach them easily?

3) Is there anyone in NYC that is capable helping out and remove the intake manifold and related parts to get this properly? I'd be happy to pay you for your time (a couple hundred dollars?) and save myself alot of frustration!!

Thanks,

Joe

You're making it harder for yourself than it needs to be by being intimidated.

It really is a simple job...meaning, It doesn't take a dummy to remove a few bolts and connectors. Just label your wires and put bolts back in their location after you removed the item, that way you don't lose your hardware or forget where it goes. Best thing about this, you learn something, and get to know your car better. You might find other things that need replacing in the process, so do evaluate everything as you go.

Taking off the upper and lower intake - be sure you have your battery disconnected before you start removing things. Also, you will want to relieve the fuel pressure before taking off the fuel rail (which is a simple procedure). You will get to see how dirty your injectors are, as CirrusSR22 showed by example.

The connector is recessed and held in tightly with an o-ring. Just wiggle it away from the block in a teeter totter fashion gradually. It should just pop out ,not much to it. It could just break, so you should use care when removing this, as there could be pieces of the fitting potentially falling inside your engine if the fitting breaks up.

Having everything off will honestly make things a lot easier.

Seriously, go for it! Take your time, because if you rush, you'll make dumb mistakes.

jm318ti

11-22-2010, 01:00 AM

You're making it harder for yourself than it needs to be by being intimidated.

It really is a simple job...meaning, It doesn't take a dummy to remove a few bolts and connectors. Just label your wires and put bolts back in their location after you removed the item, that way you don't lose your hardware or forget where it goes. Best thing about this, you learn something, and get to know your car better. You might find other things that need replacing in the process, so do evaluate everything as you go.

Taking off the upper and lower intake - be sure you have your battery disconnected before you start removing things. Also, you will want to relieve the fuel pressure before taking off the fuel rail (which is a simple procedure). You will get to see how dirty your injectors are, as CirrusSR22 showed by example.

The connector is recessed and held in tightly with an o-ring. Just wiggle it away from the block in a teeter totter fashion gradually. It should just pop out ,not much to it. It could just break, so you should use care when removing this, as there could be pieces of the fitting potentially falling inside your engine if the fitting breaks up.

Having everything off will honestly make things a lot easier.

Seriously, go for it! Take your time, because if you rush, you'll make dumb mistakes.

Mr squeelerz-
I think I'll try next year when the weather warms up. I park on the street and in NYC we have to move street cleaning 4 days a week so I would have to be finished really quick. Not ideal condition to learn. I needed a quick fix.

Here's what I did so far. I abandoned removing the connector for now and just want to repair it. I turned (on the lathe) a piece that friction fits into the broken part. I got a new connector and used that to measure the diameter my turned part. I was able to put that into the broken connector and reattach the hose. Some of the hose overlaps the existing part as well. I plan to use a clamp to attach the very end of the hose to the existing connector and use another clamp to attach to the new piece that I turned.
I wasn't able to tighten the bands yet- need to get a other socket extension.

I don't plan to drive this car very far-just around the block or maybe a few blocks.

How much pressure builds up in the coolant lines? If for some reason I cant get the clamps tightened will they just blow off?

Also I circled a part in CirrusSR22's car- I don't have that thing in my car. What its it?

Thanks--
joe

goosejuice

11-23-2010, 11:09 PM

Hey, i dont know if this is where i should be asking this but i am new to BMW's and this site.
I just got a 95 318ti for 2300 dollars, one problem with it, that didn't come up during test driving though. Its over heating. It has plenty of coolant in it, im suspecting a fuse or sensor due to the fact the fan doesn't turn on. i tested the fan myself and it does work. The seal is bad on the radiator cap but i dont think it would have this big of an effect. Please help!

signature sound

11-23-2010, 11:49 PM

goosejuice

11-23-2010, 11:51 PM

jm318ti

11-24-2010, 12:23 AM

NO, no heat from the vents! That didnt strike me as a problem when we got the car. It over heats very quickly, not as fast as when its moving. The car had been sitting for a year or two before i got it.

I just had this problem after the connector broke. Overheating in idle after 10 min or so, no heat from blower. I started to freak out and think i broke something else. Searched overheating and no heat on this site and found out air in the coolant system can cause this. Fixed it this AM-- jack up the front corner near the expansion tank and turn on the heat and watch the trapped air come out (fill with coolant). Does not over heat and I have hot air coming from the vents--

This site is invaluable for learning!--

Joe

goosejuice

11-24-2010, 12:28 AM

Thanks man! Im still wondering why the cooling fan wont turn on..

jm318ti

11-24-2010, 01:28 AM

It think it will after you bleed the system. Before it would not turn on in idle. Thought that was broken too. After I bled the air, it turned on after idling a bit. Needle is right in the middle.

good luck--

joe

signature sound

11-24-2010, 01:42 AM

yes, it does take quite awhile for the fan to turn on with mine too. I cant figure out how to get ALL the air out of mine for some reason. I have bled it 5 times already. I must be doing something wrong. Everyone else makes it sound so easy.

goosejuice

11-30-2010, 01:51 AM

i will bleed it after i get it back from the shop, they are getting it smoged for me. apparently the guy i bought it from didn't registered it for 2 years and the tags on the BMW belongs to a different car, there are also 6 tickets agianst it.. any help with is is greatly appreciated. i will post pictures soon

Elchocador

01-09-2011, 04:02 AM

All that prep, and finally we can start working on the cooling system itself. That's what I tore this thing apart for, right?? Here's the coolant connector that's attached to the side of the engine block.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/Cooling/work10.jpg

I removed the two bolts and three coolant hoses that are connected to it, then gently pulled it away from the block. SNAP! I think it was in a weakend state, because it gave way with very little effort. Here's a little carnage. It left the O-ring and some plastic in the block.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/Cooling/work12.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/Cooling/work13.jpg

Time for the back of the head connector. Hard to take any pictures of it becuase it's so tight back there. This is a shot after the new one was in. Wow is this thing a b!tch. You need an open ended wrench for the top bolt, and a socket/rachet for the lower bolt. Sorry, I forgot the size. Getting the hose clamps off is really hard as well. That required a tiny 6 mm open ended wrench. Removing the cabin filter cover is pretty much required for this. It gave me a little more working room. My connector was still very study. I smacked it against the concrete a few times and jumped on it once. It didn't break.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/vasa58/Cooling/work11.jpg

When I replaced my coolant pipe I was able to cut the hoses and like you, use a gear wrench on the top bolt and a small ratchet for the lower bolt. I didn't disassemble the intake (yet...I hope that one doesn't go anytime soon!)

I was able to attach the new hoses to the pipe and then squeeze my hand behind the block (there was some blood) I started the top bolt from above. I then jacked the car up, crawled under it and could use my left had to start and tighten the lower bolt "relatively" easy. Carefully tightening the lower bolt the fitting slowly went in, the new o-ring is very tight. After the lower bolt was almost all the way in I went back up to the top and could tighten it without cross threading it. I then went back below and finished tightening the lower bolt. I replaced all the hoses that come off the coolant pipe.

Good Times!

I'm NOT looking forward to the "plastic" pipe beneath the intake!! Thanks in advance for the help!

mdlane72

06-20-2011, 06:20 PM

Hello All,
I did the swap on the "y" pipe on the back of my 98 and used all the exact parts sans the waterpump & radiator as the initial thread. Everything worked just great BUT BUT BUT--- for some reason this part: Block Coolant Drain Seal Ring, 07119963200 wasn't put on. Now I am seeing water in the oil but no real reason for it being there all of a sudden. I am not sure where in the world this little what appears to be aluminum ring gasket even goes.

Any help would be very much appreciated.

Thanks,
Matt

zoner

06-20-2011, 06:46 PM

Does anyone know if all of the parts/hoses listed are the same for the M42 engine, with the exception of the plastic coolant connector in the back of the head? What about the hoses that connect to this plastic connector, do they connect somewhere else or are they also not used on M42 applications? Thanks.

I'm wondering if it also might not be a bad idea to replace the starter (currently- 176K mi.) while I'm in there and have everything torn apart.

Monolith

06-21-2011, 02:50 PM

Block Coolant Drain Seal Ring, 07119963200 wasn't put on. .... I am not sure where in the world this little what appears to be aluminum ring gasket even goes.

Block coolant drain plug is on the passenger side of the engine block just below the exhaust manifold. This is the washer/seal that goes on the bolt. You should see coolant dripping down the block on the passenger side if it is not sealed properly.

Part #4:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/h/f/73.png

durty

09-15-2011, 06:47 PM

Love the write up, have you had any problems with your ebay radiator?
-durty

CirrusSR22

09-15-2011, 07:18 PM

Love the write up, have you had any problems with your ebay radiator?
-durty

Nope, no problems at all.

LJSand

01-18-2012, 04:30 AM

Hi,

I love your tutorial. I have a 98 z3 1.9 and the coolant hose connector has split and is leaking. This looks like exactly what I need to do for 1 $15 part replacement. How difficult was it? Special tools? Torque wrench etc.? About how long did it take on the manifolds and fuel system?

Thanks,

Larry:smile:

CirrusSR22

01-23-2012, 06:16 AM

Hi Larry,

The project is not very hard, but it's what I'd call "involved". There's a lot of little stuff that needs to get removed to access the actual work on the cooling connectors and hoses that are hidden deep in the engine. I'd make sure you keep good-track of which electrical connector went-where, as you are going to disconnect nearly everything on that engine harness. Besides a lot of little work to open it up, there's numerous tight squeezes to unbolt/disconnect certain things. It's been a while since I did this but I seem to remember the coolant connector on the back of the head a very tight squeeze as was the starter connections. I believe I best accessed the starter connections from under the car and reached way up in there. So, be prepared to do some close quarters work.

No special tools involved, just a basic set of metric tools. I use a 1/4" bit driver with a 6mm (usually) socket for doing the hose clamps. Other than that most things are a 10mm or 13mm socket and often an extension, roughly 5"-10" should do. I think there's listed torques for many of these fasteners, but either you'll never get a torque wrench where it needs to be, or they are smaller bolts going into aluminum and I'm afraid of any torque wrench with those kind of fasteners - I try to just go by feel - snug usally is good. Just make sure you get those hose clamps nice and tight; using a bit driver for those greatly limits the torque (vs. a small ratchet/combo wrench). I usually twist very firmly with a bit driver and have never had a problem.

You could probably do the project in one full day taking your time. I don't know what time it took me, but I do know my project lasted two days because I had an incorrect hose (as I mentioned in the original post).

LJSand

01-29-2012, 07:54 AM

Hi,

I have been moving along well but I am stuck. Two questions, how do you remove the electrical connector unit that sits right on the mainifold in the middle. It is the one the fuel rail plugs in to? Then the big question is how many bolts to take of the mainifold. I am so close but I am stumped. I have taken what I can see but it doesn't budge. Also, I will need a new mainifold gasket, won't I? I wasn't thinking about that.

You have been so helpful and I appreciate it!

Thanks,

Larry

CirrusSR22

01-30-2012, 05:36 AM

The entire electrical harness will fold-away towards the firewall once you disconnect all the electrical connectors. It will totally clear the lower manifold once it's loose. There's a bunch, so make sure you track each wire coming out of that electrical "box" that sits in between the upper and lower manifold halves. Post #4 HERE (http://318ti.org/forum/showpost.php?p=134323&postcount=4) will have the best pictures of the wiring harness in place, then removed (folded back and out of the way). You'll see that almost all the wires on that main harness get fed through the center of the lower intake manifold. This is where all that tight hand squeezing comes into place.

Have you gotten the upper manifold off yet? There should be five nuts that hold the lower intake manifold on the face of the head, plus more hardware under the DISA valve - I think two bolts

You'll be able to completely remove the fuel rail before you need to disconnect all those electrical connectors. Doing that will actually give you more room to work and see. Note * The four electrical plugs going to each of the four injectors are kind-of part of that harness so they will obviously need to be removed before you can fully remove the fuel rail. You can see in the first photo in post #4 that the injector plugs have just been disconnected.

Yes, you probably should use a new gasket, but if your old one is still in pretty good shape I think a thin film of silicone sealant (like Permatex Ultra Grey) will seal it well. If you are in no rush to get it all back together I'd get a new one. They are $3.77 at AutoHausAZ.com. Part #11611734684.

I can highlight or point out things in my existing photos if you need me to.

mars

04-26-2012, 03:23 AM

http://www.318ti.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=12619&d=1335406851
how can u reach the bolt? it holds the lower manifold
i cannot even see it
did u remove the Disa Valve to reach that bolt?

bob_bmw_101

04-26-2012, 09:11 PM

I just ran out to take a look and, while that bolt is hard to see, it is very easy to feel. I used my left hand (tunrd slight away from the car) and there was no problem feeling the bolt. It is accessable with a socket and short extension. Nothing has to be removed (at least not on my 1997) .
I admit, taking the manifold off is a bit of work, but putting it on is easier.

One tip, replace the vacuum hoses while you are under there, or, at the very least check them. Make sure you mark them with tape as to where they go, I found out the hard way that it is tough to figure out once off. The factory color is not going to be visible.

TroyAndEddie

04-26-2012, 10:41 PM

http://www.318ti.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=12619&d=1335406851
how can u reach the bolt? it holds the lower manifold
i cannot even see it
did u remove the Disa Valve to reach that bolt?

I got to it underneath the car. I could actually fit a socket wrench up there and loosen it. Navigate the hoses, it's actually quite simple from underneath.

bob_bmw_101

04-27-2012, 06:47 PM

I agree, it is very easy to see from under the car. I'm sure once you know where it is it will be easy to get a socket on it, even from above.

mars

05-06-2012, 09:30 PM

TroyAndEddie

05-06-2012, 09:56 PM

CirrusSR22

05-06-2012, 10:07 PM

When u put the new block coolant connector to the hole, was it perfect fit? I mean any gap between the connector and the block surface? There is a gap, no matter how I put it, I am afraid it will leak.
Thanks

I'm guessing it's like the bad ones I posted in this thread? http://318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=16068&page=3

The whole units get warped and will not install properly. I think I'd suggest people order about three of these from your local dealer and choose the best one - just make sure you can return the others with no "restocking fee". people say only buy OE/genuine BMW parts, but in the thread I posted pictures showing even the real BMW parts can be faulty.

If you need the car back on the road ASAP I'd say bust out the RTV silicone and seal it as good as you can. If you have time, order a couple more and find a good one.

bob_bmw_101

05-07-2012, 01:27 AM

I remember that the fit is not tight. Since it is the O ring that must seat a perfect fit isn't 100% needed, but the Oring must be totally seated. The thing will not tighten up right to the block, that is for sure, but it probably is ok if the O rings are fully in the block.

I used some or the silicone grease that is used for spark plugs and that ensured the orings would not bind up. I don't know if this is ok chemically but the grease keeps the Oring from twisting. I also made sure the seating surface inside was smooth using a greenie cleaning sponge with light pressure. Needs to be really clean since the old fitting was all rotted.

The big issue here is, you won't want to take the mainifold off again, though I have heard of plenty of people who did have to take it off and replace the warped plastic fitting.

I bought the aftermarket one and it was warped, so,, I sent it back and went to BMW. I think it was like $ 75 bucks and was also slightly warped looking. But the parts guy said it would work and it did, going on 2 years now.:smile:

mars

05-07-2012, 06:07 AM

i put the old one back to the block, it fits perfect. but it's o-ring was not there.
for sure i dont want to take the manifold of again. that's why i stop, and find the solution. there is a gap from around 11 oclock to 4 oclock of the round circle.
i am not sure the oring seated well or not since the size of the gap is not small, that makes me very worried.
RTV silicone can be used in coolant system like this case?
thanks all

bob_bmw_101

05-07-2012, 02:12 PM

If it was me I'd probably try and get a replacement because if it leaks you have to take the entire manifold off again.

Yes, it is very likely that the old one dissolved inside the block and the ORing was pulled along. When I pulled mine out the o'ring was still in the block hole and I was able to pull it out.
If the Oring doesn't seat at all around it will not hold coolant under pressure. I can't see any problem with using RTV but it probably won't work if there isn't a decent O'ring seating. The gap on mine was small, but it was a gap. In fact, I was afraid it would not work, but I took a chance and it did. If you look at the o'ring on the part I think you can see how far in it must go. The RTV could probably hold but I would think it would only work if it was only to help the Oring seal. I think there is probably some slight movement between the block and the part when things heat up, the part being plastic.

As a test you could fill the engine with some distilled water up to the level, if it leaks now, it will leak (but no guarantee that it won't leak when hot), or, better still, if you have some way of putting a bit of pressure in, like a pressure brake bleeder, you could pressurize the cooling system to a few pounds and see if it holds.

mars

05-16-2012, 05:07 AM

anyone knows #13 hose connect to what?
where can i find that connector?
http://www.318ti.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=12728&d=1337141056

cooljess76

05-16-2012, 05:37 AM

anyone knows #13 hose connect to what?
where can i find that connector?

Doesn't it go to the heater core? http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=CG73&mospid=47506&btnr=64_0663&hg=64&fg=15 You should see two fittings coming out of the firewall in the engine compartment.

bob_bmw_101

05-16-2012, 01:42 PM

I just ran out and looked, on my 97 it connects to the heater core on the upper center firewall. It is plastic. There are 2 and it looks like one goes to the front of the car, the other (towards the right or passenger side is the one you want. It looks like it bends upwards more than the diagram shows. THe bend shown in the pictoral is actually bending upwards.

facing the car it is this one --> O O

mars

05-16-2012, 02:24 PM

Doesn't it go to the heater core? http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=CG73&mospid=47506&btnr=64_0663&hg=64&fg=15 You should see two fittings coming out of the firewall in the engine compartment.

I think it's #6. I cannot find that parts, no one selling it. If I got it, is it easy replace?

bob_bmw_101

05-16-2012, 03:06 PM

On my car it is just a hose clamp. They are vey available, even at local shops.

mars

05-16-2012, 03:20 PM

The problem is the hose clamp tight the hose to the connector, but my connector is broken.

mars

05-16-2012, 04:20 PM

I got some great info here: http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=26119
My connector #64118391141 is broken
I hope I don't need remove the whole dashboard to get the job done.
I will try later on.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k192/dave45056/heater%20core/DSCF0058.jpg

davintosh

05-31-2012, 02:43 AM

This is an awesome how-to thread; thanks for putting it together! My daughter just brought home a '97 318Ti, but with 190,000 miles and zero maintenance history, the cooling system was my first point of concern. Looks tedious but very doable, given enough time.

Thanks again!

nc318tigurl

08-09-2012, 10:39 PM

+1, just finished replacing the radiator today!

aceprowler

08-09-2012, 10:51 PM

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=PEL-SHKE36-4

I'm doing the same updates, just not as in-depth. But they did make it easy with a single purchase though!

aceprowler

08-17-2012, 05:55 AM

Great write up! I was able to change the back of block plastic piece by removing the firewall compartment. I changed my oil in the process and in total took about 5hrs to complete!

So it's surely doable!

I have 66k on my 97 e36 m44 1.9 and seems the plastic already cracked before I got it because the person put some kind of crap all over the plastic instead of replacing it!

I was going through the losing coolant issues and couldn't figure out where the coolant was leaking towards the back of the block until I found this thread!

This site has saved me so much money in the 2yrs I've had my car!

Can't thank you guys enough!! Keep up the great site!! Thanks!

toojohnny

09-12-2012, 02:16 PM

Hi there, with the water pipe connector (11531743679) that fits on the back of the cylinder head, how long a job would you say this is? Or maybe, how hard a job is it. You say it's a b!tch, and when I looked at the access on mine, it is unbelievably tight. How easy is it to remove the cabin filter cover? Is this the same as the 'firewall compartment'?

The actual connector itself broke when i was 30 miles from home. I had to get the AA out. at the moment the hose is stretched onto what was left of the pipe connector (almost an inch was lost where it broke) So basically the hose could come off anytime....

The annoying this is that I suspect the local garage caused it. I had new rigid brake pipes fitted, and I know they had a hard time. The suspect thing it the pipes are only just behind this pipe connector. The AA guy thinks they must have levered the brake pipes into their clips, and put a bit of pressure on this part. Yes, It was obviously old, and dried out etc, but it looks like they've made it go even faster!

Any advice on fitting it would be appreciated, as it's been a few weeks now, and I'm either going to have a go myself, or go to the garage and see if they would be prepared to do a bit of discount.

BMW quoted this as 1.5 hours - which sounds quite quick?

But that is at £100 an hour labour + vat. Normally its £125 an hour, but for older cars it's cheaper.....

applefan

09-12-2012, 06:49 PM

its very easy to remove the cabin filter cover. 3 screws that's it. Although you can do it with out removing the filter cover, it is extremely difficult and expect some bruises on your hand

toojohnny

09-12-2012, 09:26 PM

its very easy to remove the cabin filter cover. 3 screws that's it. Although you can do it with out removing the filter cover, it is extremely difficult and expect some bruises on your hand

Thanks for the reply:

The filter cover being the part that's what about 2 foot long by a few inches? Assuming we are talking about the same part, I did see that and consider that removing it would give me a but more access.

You say do it without taking it off, but the access looks ridiculously tight. I wouldn't even be able to get my hands there.

So if that is quick to take off, how come someone quoted 5 hours as the time taken to do it?

applefan

09-12-2012, 11:10 PM

toojohnny

09-12-2012, 11:42 PM

i did it with out taking the filter cover off, few years ago, that's because i didn't know how to take it off; thought it was not removable, it looked like a single unit to me. I was laughing at myself when I found out how easy it was to take the filter cover off four years later :)

5 hours may be including taking all the intake manifold off and coolant bleeding etc.

Yet, BM quote 1.5 hours for this!

That would be good if they weren't so expensive. The smaller garages may be cheaeper, but they'll take longer to do it!

Thanks for the help. I'll take another look, and see what the deal is.

Cheers

applefan

09-12-2012, 11:56 PM

toojohnny

09-13-2012, 08:24 PM

honestly, save that £100 for something else.
start taking off the rubber panel ( is it called bushing?) from the outer edge, then you can see a heavy metal cover kinda thing with two screws one side and one on the other side. remove the screws take that metal cover out ,that's it your done. you can flip the plastic wiring harness cover to your liking and you have plenty of space to do your work. Make sure you bleed the coolant correctly once done with the work

Well it would be £180 at BMW! Not that I would ever have stuff done there. The garage up the road would be £100 (probably) unless they screwed up again. They took practically 5 hours to install new rigid brake pipes. Not that I paid that - as they had quoted me a price. But they still probably managed to damage this pipe connection too. I'm going to take a look tomorrow, but it didn't look like I would ever have plenty of space to do the work! Even the AA guy (who was helpful) said it was hard to access.

I don't suppose you could attach a picture of part the you say makes the whole job easier once it is removed?

Would be appreciated!

applefan

09-13-2012, 08:27 PM

i will upload the picture, but you don't see the engine top cover there though :) i took the head out

applefan

09-14-2012, 01:35 AM

Take a look at the picture. you will get the idea

This is where I removed a metal covering and a rubber bushing

applefan

09-14-2012, 01:39 AM

This is what I removed to make room near the firewall area

Hope this helps

adamb

12-11-2012, 09:11 AM

Here is a link to my original post.

http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=37564

I haven't had any luck in my searches. I figured I would post the link here since the majority of everyone is probably still subscribed to this thread..?

Hopefully you guys can help me out!

Thanks

MichaelPH

02-03-2013, 08:53 AM

This is a great thread, but I need to ask if it is possible to replace just the back head connector if it is broken without all of the top end removal. My car is a 96 318i.

Can I remove the cabin filter cover to get to this? I have been able to get the two bolts off of the connector from the bottom side (quite a pain, but possible) , but do not know if it is possible to get the larger hose off of the connector with just the cabin filter cover removed. Smaller hose nipple snapped the other day on the way to work..

Thanks in advance

davintosh

05-06-2013, 11:18 PM

I just finished this job on my daughter's Hellrot '98 Ti. What a flippin pain in the rear! Some of the challenges we encountered:

Dealing with the wiring that dropped down through the center of the lower intake manifold; three leads to the starter, one to the DISA valve, one to the oil filter housing, etc... What a pain in the... :rolleyes:
Removing/replacing the plastic gooseneck on the back of the head,
Installing the last coolant hose on the plastic gooseneck on the back of the head (dropped a nice Gearwrench ratchet with 7mm socket on it, and it didn't come out the bottom. Still in there, somewhere. :rolleyes: )
Sealing up the fuel lines on reassembly. A couple of o-rings dropped out somewhere along the line and didn't realize they were missing until we got a nice fuel leak when it was running.
Somehow I ended up missing one hose; 64211394295 that goes between the heater core and the heater valve. It's on the list of things I ordered, and I paid for it, and thought I verified everything had been delivered, but it was nowhere to be found. Thankfully, the guy at the NAPA store was able to find another hose of a similar shape that fit in there perfectly. I think he said it was from a late model Chevy Impala. Go figure. ;)
Ended up breaking the little plastic clip that holds the end of the throttle cable to the throttle lever. Our dealership is worthless; didn't have that part in stock, and strangely, their computer says that part isn't used on my car. RealOEM says the same. Weird.
Found that the intake bellows between the air mass meter and the throttle body (#10 below) was cracked all over and leaking like a sieve. I didn't notice it when it first came off the car (son did some of the disassembly) or I would've ordered one. Had to patch the old one up for today because the new one won't be here until tomorrow. If you're doing this job, maybe save yourself the bother and order a new one with your hoses, especially if you don't know when it was last replaced. (by the way, does anybody know what that secondary throttle housing (#9) is for? Looks like some cars don't have it at all.)
Had to transfer all the rubber bits from my old radiator over to the new. Wrongly assumed that they would be part of the new radiator... Nope.
Had to transfer the coolant temp sensor from the old radiator to the new. I'm glad the brass plug was there, but sure wish I had noticed the absence of the sensor on the radiator before I put antifreeze in the system.

http://realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/o/h/19.png

adamb

05-06-2013, 11:56 PM

Those connections that go down through the middle of the lower intake are definitely a PAIN. I didnt have to much trouble hooking my starter cables back up as i found enough clearance from underneath the car. I did mis-label come of my connections which lead to me finding a wire short in the main loom. I had to disassemble everything again to lay a new wire. Davintosh - my boot (#7) was cracked as well leading me to run rich so a brand new boot fixed that right up. Also #9 looks like something to do with the cruise control, which my car does not have.

davintosh

05-07-2013, 12:00 AM

Mine doesn't have cruise either (studying what it will take to retrofit) so that's not it.

adamb

05-07-2013, 12:04 AM

I've looked into a retrofit as-well. Seems a bit in-depth.

jenkinskg

07-26-2013, 02:50 PM

I replaced the pipe on the back of the m44 head started from up top, then realized I could reach it and do the job from under the car best
Was looking for a parts list to change the middle pipe next

jenkinskg

07-26-2013, 02:52 PM

yes rear pipe can be replaced best from underneath car
reach up and do it by feel

WilliamSven

07-26-2013, 07:18 PM

but when you had your radiator out did you do this to your AC condenser ?
Professional Grainger AC Condenser cleaner, Hyper Alkaline, sprays on as a liquid. Bubbles froths foams gurgles and gets HOT actually as it dissolves every single dead bug, hair, feather, bit of tar, animal crud, thats wedged inside the condenser.
If you didnt clean the condenser as well as it can be done, or put a new one in, you didnt do a full cooling system service.

<br>
you dont have to remove the bumper, the only reason mine was off is the car is getting painted too.

http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc288/Williamsven/theti/20130719_153940.jpg (http://s216.photobucket.com/user/Williamsven/media/theti/20130719_153940.jpg.html)

fastworker

08-18-2013, 10:19 PM

Last weekend I replaced the plastic Y pipe at the back of the head, by way of taking the cam cover off, and replacing those gaskets, plugs too. Engine ran so much smoother with the new plugs, I couldn't help but notice the crunching gravel sound coming from the water pump. This weekend, with new pump in hand - as with many it seems, having a real problem getting the old one out. Car has 185k, pump shaft was wobbly, several spat-out roller bearings sit in a bracket below. So no going back. The thing will not budge. The top of the pump broke out, etc. - a claw hammer doesn't budge it, I don't have access to build my own puller. I'm thinking of taking an angle grinder to it, just cut the f*cker until what's left comes out. Any thoughts/objections?

wake74

08-18-2013, 10:46 PM

Just did this on mine and thought I would never get it out. Probably the most frustrating car related project I have ever done. I tried spinning it with a cold chisel to break it loose a bit, pipe wrench on it etc.

Finally just got bigger and bigger breaker bars. Bent all my small ones (if 24" is small) and finally got the big thick four footer out. That finally pried it out. Be very very careful not to crack the timing chain cover when prying. I was so frustrated by this point I wasn't thinking too clearly but I did manage to get it out without cracking anything using the big demo bar.

fastworker

08-18-2013, 11:33 PM

Yes, I'd also gotten to the point of not 'thinking too clearly', and decided to bag it for now - which is not a decision taken lightly as it means taking the bus this week. Thanks very much for the reply - the local OSH is closing, maybe they have a honker breaker/crow bar on special. And also yes, maybe the most frustrating thing I've ever done in a car..........

NeoMishMoo

08-22-2013, 11:34 PM

Need edits to all the bolts posts with proper torque specs. I still haven't gotten a bentley for my ti but I'll look in my other E36 books to see if they have some. But if anyone else wants to do this it would be greatly appreciated. I bought a torque wrench so I can finally do things right but I didn't buy myself a book with proper torque values so my wrench is almost pointless right now.

fastworker

08-24-2013, 03:24 PM

After reading all the posts here, as well as the Pelican water pump removal comments, I purchased a purpose-made water pump removal tool:

http://mysite.verizon.net/res8nm26/bmwtools/index.html

I came across this in the Pelican comments - it was made by a father/son BMW owning machinist team. It's an absolutely beautifully made piece - easily OEM quality. Worked like a charm - out in maybe 3 minutes.

After trying a claw hammer without any movement at all, I was hesitant to try the very large pry bar method - there are so many posts where have the pump ended up remaining in the block, and with my engine having 185k on it, I thought the smooth pressure of this tool might avoid this result. And so it was!

BTW - my car was made in 4/98, and the impeller was unlike any other I've seen here - not plastic, not cast metal, but sheet metal pieces tinned or soldered together. The pump had spat out several roller bearings; engine runs soooo much quieter now.

scottybudd

09-11-2013, 08:30 PM

Gotta say that this website in general, and this thread specifically, is really outstanding. So often you get criticism and condescension sprinkled in with the posts when folks who weren’t born with a wrench in their hands ask questions but that is not the case here. Not only a great source for information but even encouragement.
Bought a 95 318ti (8/95 production date M42 engine) for my son turning 16. First BMW ever owned and knew it had cooling problems but otherwise ran well and had only 120K miles. Replaced the radiator and major coolant hoses, belts, water pump & pulley and thermostat and on startup the coolant pipe on the head broke.
With the help of this post I got the nerve to try replacing coolant pipe, fuel injector o-rings, both upper/lower manifold gaskets and the TB gasket and the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator to the intake. I also sprayed cleaner into the ICV but didn’t probably clean it as well as I’ve heard should be done.
I didn’t pull the lower manifold completely off because I didn’t want to mess with the “squid”. I did have to remove all 4 plugs from the passenger side of the squid box so it would rock back with the lower manifold to allow me to install the coolant pipe and hoses. I’m pretty sure I got all 4 clips back into the squid in the correct location but it did take some re-thinking as I didn’t label like I should have.
Bottom line is after the 2nd assembly the engine would turn over but wouldn’t start and stay running unless I pressed the accelerator pedal and get the RPMs up (idled fine before all my “improvements”). From what I’ve read this implies a problem with an air/vacuum leak or the ICV is bad. Checked the OBD1 and have only a 1222 fault which I think was caused by my idle problem causing a rich/lean mixture. I don’t think the fuel pump is the problem. If the injectors/hoses were leaking would the engine be able to run at the higher RPMs?
So I’m buying more gaskets and am going to disassemble again and probably just replace every hose and clean and inspect the ICV closer. I have a fuel pressure tester but don’t think that is the problem (though I don’t hear the fuel pump prime when I turn the ignition key to the on position).
Any other checklist items you might recommend me covering this weekend? Anyone have the specs for resistance on the ICV connectors? Appreciate any feedback.

Lbcnu24

09-12-2013, 05:12 AM

Don't they make a aluminum coolant connector? Why on earth would they use plastic!?!!!

Squeaky Wheel

09-30-2013, 09:24 PM

Great write up. I recently got a 97 318i MT with cam shaft position sensor error (among many other issues). Since I had to take the intake manifold off to replace the sensor, armed with this write up, I went for replacing all the hoses and vacuum lines, cleaned the intake manifolds, throttle body, PCV, ICV, and had the fuel injectors professionally cleaned/refurbished. Now I am putting it all back together and scratching my head trying to figure out where the knock sensor connector holder bracket should bolt on. who ever worked on this car before had left the bracket hanging loose. Any help or pic of where the knock sensor connector holder bracket mounts would be great. Thanks in advance.

1996 328ti

11-17-2013, 05:17 PM

First time replacing the radiator on the M42.
A couple observations.
I am probably stating the obvious, but...
parts need to be transferred from the old radiator to the new one.
I realized this when I wasn't happy how the radiator sat in the chassis.
Also remove the vent plug when filling with your antifreeze mixture.
If not water may circulate as is in my case.
I filled the overflow and noticed water not circulating until the vent plug was removed.

ti-billy

11-17-2013, 11:49 PM

Looks like I'll be doing this soon since my water pump started leaking Friday, 131000 miles I knew it was coming

CirrusSR22

11-26-2013, 07:08 AM

If anyone was wondering (as I was), replacing the rear coolant connector without removing the intake manifold isn't too hard of a project. Much better than taking off the intake. Remove the battery box, ignition assembly (coil and wires) valve cover and the panel(s) against the firewall - the ones that need to be removed to replace the HVAC filters. The top connector bolt is easily removed from the top with a 10mm gear wrench, but the bottom is tougher. I used a 10mm box end wrench and reached under the connector to access. Some arm contortion involved. Maybe a small 1/4" ratchet and socket would be easier? That might premiss getting at the lower bolt straight down, from the top.

Once the bolts are off you can flex the loose connector and hoses up to gain access to the hose clamps. That's it.

My connector was leaking in the cold. I reinstalled with a good thick bead of permatex ultra grey "outboard" of the o-ring. So far so good. 235,000 miles on the beast. Might be time to retire it in the next 12 months.

uncledavid

12-17-2013, 12:46 AM

I am at a total loss guys. I have a 1997 (6/97) Z3 1.9. I ordered from Pelican and AutohausAZ. The coolant hoses from both sites match the part # of my Z,but they don't match up:mad:

I will upload some pictures to illustrate.

I know I am not a regular, but I have been ill for a while and now I feel I can do it. I learned a few tricks I would like to share with you guys to make access SO easy:smile:

I have to have a different production run or something, got any ideas ?

e36steve

02-22-2014, 07:06 PM

i have been reading this thread over and over during my own m44 sedan cooling system overhaul. couple things at the end here have me a bit stumped (a vacume line and a couple wires) if i cant figure it out ill post pics after my attempt.

this thread is pretty much the reason i finally decided to make a 318.org account ive been browsing here from time to time. seems like a great forum :)

i figured out where the remaining lines and wires go :) thats a good feeling. i got hung up trying to re attatch the throttle cable though and have to go buy a set 90 degree bent alen key style torx wrenches to get the bottom bolt on the throttle cable bracket screwed back in. i got it out with small vise grips and a screwdriver bit but i cant find my small vice grips atm so to the store... lol

740isport

03-21-2014, 07:34 PM

Must admit, this thread helped a bunch! Did the cooling system rebuild as a project over a long period of time (just whenever I had a few minutes to wrench here and there) and it went without a hitch. Had to buy parts from multiple sources, but worked out beautifully. Didn't even have too much of a problem with the squid.

Replaced my fuel injectors at the same time and when it came to start, took a while to get the fuel up there she ran like crap! Pulled the #1 spark plug boot and no change. After swapping plugs with cylinder 2 the problem was still there. Found that the injector wasn't pumping anything. Swapped with one of my old injectors (which weren't really bad in the first place) and perfect start and idle! Still amazes me that it's designed to have to remove the upper intake to get to the injectors!

All in all, want to thank OP for starting this thread and those who have contributed! It helped a lot!

uncledavid

03-22-2014, 03:27 AM

This thread helped me immensely. Still just turning a wrench when I have time. I need to contribute some photos as well. After the radiator was out I just took a step stool and climbed in the engine compartment for the rest of the dis-assembly and assembly. That really gives one great access without the aching back. Make sure that you have a tool chest within reach. I hated climbing out just for a wrench. :anger: I learned my lesson quick. I have the oddball car with the 180 degree bend hose at the heater valve on the firewall. In my opinion, if the plastic cooling fitting at the rear of the block brakes, tear it down and change both plastic parts. I have a chart of our major suppliers with the part numbers on the margin. I shopped knowing the vendor with lowest price. I did not purchase that way though. I looked at the quality of the vendor's part. It took some time but I sure learned a lot. I am going to flush the block now with white vinegar before putting my new radiator in. I will post how it came together. Thanks guys. :icon_clap:

GosuTi

04-26-2014, 01:35 AM

So this thread helped me down to this last thing...
After doing my full overhaul, my car won't start, no pressure in the fuel lines, and no clicking of the starter. I refuse to believe i have a relay blown on my EWS after ~6 days of sitting in my garage, perfectly fine.

Does anyone know what could be the issue? it's appearing to me to be an EWSII issue, but I have no idea what could have triggered it, anyone know?

aceprowler

04-28-2014, 06:32 AM

Sounds like a fuse blew. Seriously, pull em and check em. Front of car, should always have back up plugs anyhow. Mine went and didn't know it till pulled and replaced it. HTH

GosuTi

04-28-2014, 06:46 AM

Sounds like a fuse blew. Seriously, pull em and check em. Front of car, should always have back up plugs anyhow. Mine went and didn't know it till pulled and replaced it. HTH

I checked my fuses. all of them seem to be in good shape.. i'm only getting a couple of relays clicking, though. i may grab a few new relays and replace them all, see if that's what's going on.

740isport

04-28-2014, 08:54 PM

Double check your wiring from the squid. Including the starter! If the two smaller wires on the solenoid are reversed, you will see the same results.

GosuTi

04-28-2014, 09:18 PM

Double check your wiring from the squid.

I'll check it, appreciate it!

MINIz guy

06-16-2014, 12:10 AM

Just a general question when installing the intake manifold.

Do I need to replace the gaskets on the intake manifold or can I use my originals?
What material are the gaskets?
I have gasket paper to make a new gasket, but won't be able to do so if they are metal gaskets.

I ask since I want to tear the car apart tomorrow and can't wait for shipping new parts in since I need the car up and running ASAP.

GosuTi

06-16-2014, 12:22 AM

metal gaskets

If i recall correctly all of them were metal.

EDIT: I think the lower gasket is the paper type gasket, and the uppers were metal.

MINIz guy

06-16-2014, 01:03 AM

Does that mean they are reusable within reason? IE: if they aren't cracked or broken, I'll be fine putting them back on?

GosuTi

06-16-2014, 01:06 AM

Does that mean they are reusable within reason? IE: if they aren't cracked or broken, I'll be fine putting them back on?
General consensus is to Change everything you can on your way down. No reason to slack on a car, you don't want to have to go back through and redo it because one of your gaskets fail after you take it off.

With that said, i would at least replace the lower gasket. That one was cooked on, on mine. but, waiting for parts, you might as well order the uppers too. they're not expensive. I changed everything down to my starter while i was doing my cooling system rebuild.

uncledavid

06-16-2014, 03:29 PM

I chose the replace all hoses and gaskets, jeez, it is only a couple of bucks vs. a future failure. You will have more confidence in your engine !

I am having trouble uploading pictures, all my file sizes are too large in some cases. I am working on that now.

If you pull the fan & radiator you can use a short ladder and stand directly in front of the engine. This saved the ache in my back while giving a much view of the wires, hoses etc. I got some great photos I hope to upload soon.

MINIz guy

06-28-2014, 03:07 AM

Removing the "squid" has been the single most hardest thing I've had to do on a car. Getting the starter wires were a pain in the you-know-what. I labeled everything carefully and now have the squid tucked nicely to the side.

It seems that my car has been leaking oil for a while before I fixed the valve cover gasket. It's oil soaked right near where my fuel injectors were. My injectors were as bad as the pictures too, so I decided to send them out and get them cleaned w/ new o-rings and everything. Since the car will be down for ~1 week, I'll have plenty of time to carefully figure out which coolant hoses I need to replace. I'm still doing this on a budget, so hopefully I need to replace none!

740isport

06-28-2014, 04:54 AM

bmwme

09-09-2014, 02:00 AM

Trying to follow this to get at my cracked rear coolant fitting. It irks me the engineers stopped thinking when they got to the "squid". Not having a disconnect is a major d in the b.

So any suggestions on how to remove the squid so I can continue?

740isport

09-09-2014, 02:39 AM

Unfortunately one wire at a time and make sure you label them. You have to remove the squid to get the intake off. But even with a disconnect you would also have to disconnect the components that the squid connects too.

uncledavid

09-09-2014, 05:05 PM

The squid is a twist connector to release. If you can stand up in the engine compartment like I did I could easily see the nuts and wires to the starter.

BTW a head lamp (a good investment under $50) from a sporting store works great.. I hate having to hold or wedge a flashlight. I had great access and vision from that point on. Also pick up a telescope mechanic's mirror from Harbor Freight or auto parts store, comes in handy.

The file sizes of my pics are too large to upload. I am bummed big time !!:frown:

bmwme

09-09-2014, 05:47 PM

The squid is a twist connector

Where? There should be a connector under the squid to remove the casing so the intake can be removed

uncledavid

09-09-2014, 11:18 PM

You sound a little puzzled, your first word was Where ? Taking the puzzle apart. I am sure a lot of us have used the thread by CirrusSR22 to get pics of the tear down. Before I forget, do label all the connectors of the squid as suggested by my fellow club member. Keep stepping back and see what looks like it could be removed next. You will have to feel your way around some components to detect another bolt or wire that needs to be removed in the process of disassembly. (get a headlamp buddy) I failed to mention that you have to remove the fan housing and the radiator to accommodate you to stand inside the engine compartment. If you cannot don't worry, just your back may get a little sore. Lift the part out gently to make sure you have all the connectors undone. Once the squid is out, the dissasembly speeds up. Replace all your hoses and both plastic fittings. Good time to change the water pump as well. I recommend the pump with the composite material impeller. Also change your belts and idler pulleys. Keep checking back for support and attach a low resolution digital picture. It helps us to help you. Have fun !!

bmwme

09-16-2014, 10:18 PM

I mean where is the twist connector. Don't think mine has one. It's just wires in and out.

You sound a little puzzled, your first word was Where ? Taking the puzzle apart. I am sure a lot of us have used the thread by CirrusSR22 to get pics of the tear down. Before I forget, do label all the connectors of the squid as suggested by my fellow club member. Keep stepping back and see what looks like it could be removed next. You will have to feel your way around some components to detect another bolt or wire that needs to be removed in the process of disassembly. (get a headlamp buddy) I failed to mention that you have to remove the fan housing and the radiator to accommodate you to stand inside the engine compartment. If you cannot don't worry, just your back may get a little sore. Lift the part out gently to make sure you have all the connectors undone. Once the squid is out, the dissasembly speeds up. Replace all your hoses and both plastic fittings. Good time to change the water pump as well. I recommend the pump with the composite material impeller. Also change your belts and idler pulleys. Keep checking back for support and attach a low resolution digital picture. It helps us to help you. Have fun !!

uncledavid

09-16-2014, 11:28 PM

My Z3 is a 1997 1.9L. What helped me immensely was taking pics (gotta be low resolution to attach in the forum). It would be helpful to see what you are looking at. The wires to all of the sensors, starter solenoid, alternator, all lead back to a central hub (that is a lot of wires). The hub and all of the wires leading out of it is the squid. What keeps the squid anchored to the electrical system? Can you post several pictures, that is a great assistance.

bmwme

10-01-2014, 01:40 PM

Anyone have pictures of he connectors that are under the lower intake? I have one connector I can't find a home for.

740isport

10-01-2014, 03:45 PM

Anyone have pictures of he connectors that are under the lower intake? I have one connector I can't find a home for.

I don't have pics, but if you could post some I may be able to help you track it down. Taken mine off along with the squid too many times so far! :D

uncledavid

10-01-2014, 04:52 PM

My pics did not load because the file sizes are too large.. lesson learned.

Are you referring to the squid wire dangling free on the firewall side of the intake manifold ? That was a problem I encountered in my case. The lead goes to the Change Over Valve on the bottom of the Intake Manifold.

The car will run smooth without it connected, and you can also make this connection with the manifold in place, you just cannot see it.

Google: BMW 318i change over valve location top of the webpage, click on the left image and follow the arrows. Pics courtesy Pelican Parts.

bmwme

10-02-2014, 01:30 PM

Yup it was a hidden plug to that vavle. Thanks!

How about the two vacuum lines in he front? The one that comes from the vacuum pump actuator goes into the sensor bolted to the intake correct? And the one that comes from under the intake manifold goes straight into the intake manifold. Right?

bmwme

10-02-2014, 01:32 PM

This "sensor"
http://i674.photobucket.com/albums/vv108/bmwme/Race%20Stuff/9EC1C0C2-1718-483F-82B4-9062D1645EE3.jpg (http://s674.photobucket.com/user/bmwme/media/Race%20Stuff/9EC1C0C2-1718-483F-82B4-9062D1645EE3.jpg.html)

uncledavid

10-03-2014, 02:58 PM

What year and model is your BMW ?

bmwme

10-03-2014, 04:23 PM

'97 318ti

740isport

10-03-2014, 04:39 PM

I know the connector, but can't see the corresponding wire in your close-up. Can you get another shot of the whole area? I can then tell you exactly which one. My '97 is exactly the same.

johnb7

12-07-2014, 05:46 PM

I overhauled my cooling system at 110K miles, but for some reason the seal on the plastic piece gave out last/this winter. Since everything was redone only about 25K miles ago, all I needed to do was clean up and replace the plastic piece and seal on my M42. I was able to do this without disconnecting all the wires from the squid. I pulled the intake with squid attached away from the block and had enough room to work, but did not have to undo any of the starter or backup switch wires. Just in case anyone gets into a similar situation, that saved me a lot of time and effort.

I would still suggest removing the full squid and intake if you are overhauling all the hoses along with the plastic bits.

mobius

03-30-2015, 02:17 AM

I really enjoy this forum the more and more I use it. This is a great writeup and helped me with the odd bits of doing an overhaul like this. I completed it this weekend. It took me two weekends of time not spending all day and taking my time labeling everything. I have to got to say, if you can take out as much as possible. It makes things so much easier although it does add to your removal and put back together time. I figured why not do other stuff when I've got the car taken apart as much as I have. Note it does help that my 318ti is not my daily and can stand to be worked on slowly. The biggest pain of this job was that rear coolant connector, everything else was simple in comparison. I ended up taking out the air vent grating, the metal cowl that goes around that area and moving the main harness box further back into that area. This gave me more wiggle room to get my hands into remove the connector. I recommend removing the secondary air pump so you can then easily remove the alternator. My alternator was coming out anyways as the main bearing in it is very noisy and likely on its way out, thus needing a rebuild. Removing both of these parts makes the starter bolts simple. I used a 3/8" rachet with a 7" wobble extension with a swivel joint on the end. It made removing the bolts pretty simple to do after a good spray down with pb blaster. I never had to get under the car except for removing / reinstalling the drain plug on the block and the drain spigot on the radiator. I have a question though for those that know. The secondary air pump valve that sits on the left front of the engine (mines an m44) has a 1/8" diameter rubber hosing that looks to run under the car to the fuel filter area. My question is it normal or even good for there to be two round inline cartridge filters on this hosing run? I need to replace this hosing run as it's cracking in a few places.