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View Full Version : Oil Filter Housing Leak fix DIY


dave45056
02-14-2008, 09:21 PM
I hope this helps anyone with this problem.

5227

robcarync
04-14-2008, 07:38 PM
this looks like the exact oil leak i have...excellent write up dave!

thesk8nmidget
06-03-2008, 03:13 PM
props on this write up!!

very well done

scottjreed
06-09-2008, 03:23 AM
I just did this today, great write up, but mine is still leaking. After looking at the diagram I think my bush may have been in backwards to start with. Does the side with the spring on it go into the engine?

Entropyman
06-19-2008, 10:29 PM
The side with the spring goes toward the oil filter housing. I had this problem and this write up really saved my butt. Many thanks!

jg e36
08-28-2008, 05:27 PM
Thanks Dave! I just did this job yesterday and your write up was of great help. My car has the secondary air pump and I removed it to have more room to work. The gasket was in good condition, but the o-rings were completely flat and dryed out, so I guess that was the source of the leak.

robcarync
09-05-2008, 08:44 PM
Worked like a charm...once I finished the job!

I got everything disassembled and was amazed that nothing had gone wrong yet! I thought to myself: "This might be the first time I work on my car without some unforseen misfortune!"

Then as I was torquing the bolts back into the oil filter housing, I sheared the bolt by tightening it too much by accident! I had half a bolt stuck in my engine. and only about 2 mils were sticking out, making it hard to extract this bolt. It was at an awkward position to try and drill it out. Several hours later and two cans of freeze off and several pairs of pliers later, I managed to actually twist this bad boy out!

Then I had to wait a week for new bolts to get shipped to me!

On a side note, make sure you keep track of which bolts go where. Not hard if everything goes smoothly, but after being carless for a week, I was glad I labeled all the bolts!

Ray B
01-07-2009, 02:15 AM
Nice I have the same leak and am doing this tomorrow, Do you have to buy the bush or will the old one be ok? I had to order everything and i only ordered the gasket and oring, wish I had seen this first. Well done

jg e36
01-07-2009, 03:12 AM
The old one should be ok

Mopho
01-16-2009, 06:07 PM
The old one should be ok

That's good, I only got the o-rings and gasket too. Good to know which direction the bush goes in, whoever worked on my ti before I bought it, didn't do anything right. Even the valve cover gasket I just replaced was in wrong at the rear, making it leak like a seeve. Got that fixed, now to change the oil filter housing gaskets/o-rings...
Then it looks like the front crankshaft seal is leaking too...possibly the rear also...
Sigh...
:frown:
This is the first Bimmer I ever owned that leaked so bad.
Even my '84 325e Coupe with 217K didn't leak...
Goes to show, if you get a bad mechanic working on something, (I even had two stripped valve cover bolts, one one the rear spark plug valley on the ti) they can sure fudge things up...
By the way, if you run into this problem with stripped bolts, (threads gone inside engine or head) what I did was use slightly longer bolts to catch the good treads. I ran a tap in first, to clean up the threads, and blew them out with compressed air.
:wink:

jg e36
01-16-2009, 09:39 PM
This may not be your case, but when I first noticed the leak it looked like the front crankshaft seal was to blame, that was before I discovered the oil puddle at the base of the filter housing. What happened was that the oil leaking from the housing ran down and behind the crank pulley making me believe that the fron seal was bad. Once I got the area cleaned up and the rings and gaskets replaced there is no evidence of any oil around the housing or the front crankshaft seal.
I recommend you to clean the area and do the housing fix, then drive for a while and re-check to see how's everithing looking.
Good luck
jg

Mopho
01-16-2009, 11:07 PM
This may not be your case, but when I first noticed the leak it looked like the front crankshaft seal was to blame, that was before I discovered the oil puddle at the base of the filter housing. What happened was that the oil leaking from the housing ran down and behind the crank pulley making me believe that the fron seal was bad. Once I got the area cleaned up and the rings and gaskets replaced there is no evidence of any oil around the housing or the front crankshaft seal.
I recommend you to clean the area and do the housing fix, then drive for a while and re-check to see how's everithing looking.
Good luck
jg

I'm praying you're right! A BMW specialist I get my parts from in Berkeley, said he doubted it was the front seal, he hardly ever sells the front or rear seal unless it's for a rebuild.
Mine has been so cobbled up, I am being pessimestic.
:cool:

dave45056
02-26-2009, 12:15 AM
A little advice for everyone... The Bush comes with both o-rings and costs about 8 bucks. O-rings bought seperately cost 5 bucks each. So it's cheaper to buy the Bush.
(that just sounds wrong).
Also, this problem seems so crop up when cold weather hits.

Mopho
02-26-2009, 01:22 AM
I am going to replace just the gasket to the block.

That is what is leaking.

If you take the o-rings in to any reputable auto parts store (NOT Checker/Kragen/Pep Boys type) they will match up the o-rings for about a buck apiece, that is if you need the bush or o-rings in the first place. I have a box of o-rings I bought from Mac or Snapon Tools years ago (can't remember which it was so long ago), and it has paid for itself 10 times over.

JMHO

Xenocide
02-27-2009, 12:20 AM
just buy the bush, its cheap, and comes with the o-ring

patriot
03-04-2009, 10:56 PM
Am I correct in assuming that the M42 with the M42 style(aluminum) oil filter housing doesnt need the valve("bush")?

spidertri
03-07-2009, 12:59 AM
Notes for M44 Owners from at '98 318ti.

-Secondary air pump needs to come out

-The belt tensioner on my car required a Torx T50 to rotate counter-clockwise

-The lower bolt that holds the alternator to the cradle hits the power steering reservoir, that needs to be moved out of the way to take out and put in the alternator bolt.

-The belt tensioner does not need to come off of the alternator cradle, once all cradle bolts are removed the entire assembly (cradle, belt tensioner, power steering pulley/pump) can be pulled up and towards the fender and tied off with some twine/whatever you have. Be gentle with the power steering hoses though.

That's all I can think of, none of my bolts broke and everything came out relatively easily. My gasket was bonded to the block and the bush o-rings were flat and hard, there was oil everywhere, lol. Well worth spending the time rather than $583 the shop quoted me. Thanks for the great write up dave!

Ray Cism
03-11-2009, 05:26 PM
Thanks for the write up. I got the parts from BMW last week for under $20 and changed the gaskets in about 2 hours. No more oil drops on my driveway. :wink:

Kaliimc
05-01-2009, 03:00 AM
Mahalo! Great write up! I'm monitoring the car now to check results of my work.

Was lucky that a former BMW of Honolulu mechanic and now independant shop co-owner helped out tremendously with diagnosing the problem area, and giving me the gasket and o rings for free!

Took me 3 hours to complete, the hardest part was putting the alternator back on because of the precise clearance for the bolt. :biggrin:

Mopho
05-18-2009, 11:51 PM
Well, finally got tired of the mess in the driveway, had the parts sitting on my retired toolbox (I stay away from it as much as possible since I retired from body shop) and I changed the o-rings and gasket. It took me about 8 hours...but I cleaned everything, polished the housing, alternator, super cleaned belts, pulleys, etc.
Typical bodyman, I am into detail. I also ran a tap in all threads and blew them out (I mean, I got these tap and die sets just gathering dust, what can I say...) and polished all the nuts and bolt threads on my bench wire wheel ...
Things sure torque better when all the threads are the same and CLEAN.

Seems to have fixed the problem. NO more leak at the housing. And man, were those o-rings hard and flat. They broke trying to take them off the bush (I used the old bush, new o-rings and gasket sealer ont the gasket). I also put the oil filter housing on a flat piece of glass with some fine sandpaper, and made sure it was flat and clean). Soo, that's why I took 8 hours....+ to get-er done.

One thing to mention. Make sure you have a mental or phyisical picture of how the serpintine belt goes...LOL!
Thanks for the info everyone.

Helped to be able to see what someone else had to do instead of relying on the Bentley manual...
:wink:

exiledan
06-26-2009, 04:39 AM
awesome write up, im doing this tomorrow morning, mine started to leak in the winter, care would warm up and no leak....now its summer leaking all the time...i can clean it all up, start the car and watch it seep out as in the pics above...thanks alot...

eurohb
09-10-2009, 01:56 AM
i did this and it worked thanks again:)

Mopho
09-10-2009, 06:07 PM
Wellll,
I sold the white ti, and found a nice green one (1996 also, owned by a lady schoolteacher that bought a Mercedes to replace it :eek: ) that is in MUCH better shape than the white one was, and with 139K instead of 184K...

It must be an "Active" since it has the power sunroof, leather interior, side ground effects, and cruise control. I had to replace the power window regulator on the passenger side when I bought it, but only paid $2200 for it.

It has the typical leak at the filter housing, but now that I have done it once, it will be easier to change the second time. I just bought the o-rings and block gasket the last time, worked out well, no leaks.

Thanks again for the photos and writeup. Helped a bunch.
Mopho
:wink:

projekt EPiK
02-22-2010, 06:28 PM
just wanted to add how great this writeup is. I did the fix on my 95 ti back in November when I got it.. installed the new gaskets and bushing.. degreased everything on the front of the engine with Simple Green and drove around the corner to the car/pressure wash. Nice and shiny clean, and not a drop since.

I just started working on my 97 318i race car and it needs the fix BAD. Oredering parts today. Thanks again for a great post.

sauerkraut
03-25-2010, 03:43 AM
i just did this today no more oil leak thanks for the right up:biggrin:

Mopho
03-25-2010, 07:11 PM
I finally got my greenie done, when the water pump went out. Unfortunatly, I blew a head gasket overheating it, so it's in the shop getting the head redone. I will find out this week if the head is cracked.
A fair warning: My car did not start running funny or anything. Just overheated it for a minute, and wallla. Blown head gasket.
Watch your tempertures, guys and dolls. This is gonna cost me (with a complete valve job and resurfacing the head, new valve guide seals etc.) over 2 grand for a minutes overheating.

2MIZ129
04-07-2010, 05:11 AM
i have this same leak ive had it for like a week is a serious leak should i deal with it now? i have no money or tools to do this right now..
i guess id have to go to a shop if its a serious thing.. if so how much do you guys think they would charge me

Recon427
04-07-2010, 06:44 AM
i have this same leak ive had it for like a week is a serious leak should i deal with it now? i have no money or tools to do this right now..
i guess id have to go to a shop if its a serious thing.. if so how much do you guys think they would charge me

If you go to an independent shop they would probably quote you about 2 hours worth of labor at least.

The parts are cheap [less than $10 total] and it would take you about 3 hours to do on your own if you took your time and studied everything. Take you 1 hour if you were just replacing the gasket and getting out of there. But I like to clean all the parts I take apart and clean the surrounding area. So I spent half a day doing this.... but my engine looks nice now :D

Remember the alternator is a pain to get out. I filed down the mounting brackets on the alternator and lined them with white lithium grease for easy installation and and future removal. just and fyi .

Good luck ;) Save the money and try this yourself. Spend the money you would spend at a shop on some neat upgrades :D

2MIZ129
04-08-2010, 05:26 AM
i will def try this on my own, but is it a serious leak ? should i deal with it now or can it last another month or so.. i keep putting oil in cause it gets low but not low enough that it needs the whole bottle

Recon427
04-08-2010, 03:22 PM
Well I would not be a great judge of what is considered a "bad leak."

You say you have to put more oil into the car? At what frequency? If it is once a month then your leak is not severe. Is it every week? Then, yeah, get this fixed pronto.

By the way, careful when you remove that alternator..... just like the How To guide states: Don't hit it with a hammer. :biggrin:

2MIZ129
04-08-2010, 08:34 PM
i have to like once every 2 and half weeks just 1 quart bottle i check the dipstick everyday, but when its low it doesnt seem to go below the the last line it stays in the middle between full line the reason i put more in is so it stays on top way.. full. think it last another month? lol

Recon427
04-08-2010, 09:42 PM
Umm what do you mean by "full line" You mean, at the top of the number range?

The oil level should not be at the "full" mark. It should be in between the full and low mark. Too much oil will actually cause damage to your engine...

In any case, as long as you have oil on hand [keep a bottle in your trunk] and you check it regularly then it sounds like you will be fine for another month. However, try not to post pone this repair for too long.

2MIZ129
04-08-2010, 10:40 PM
yeah i dont fill it up that much its right where it should be sorry
and thanks for the help i will have to do this soon for sure
cause its getting mad oil all over the bottom sucks cause just got it steamcleaned a month ago

2MIZ129
05-13-2010, 04:29 AM
finally getting to it, this weekend but i got some questions..
im ordering the parts from pelican are they legit ? same as bmw original parts?
i have a 96 ti auto m44.
im ordering
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=11-42-1-709-800-M17&catalog_description=Gasket%2C%20Oil%20Filter%20Housing%20to%20Block%2C%20E%33%30%20%33%31%38i%20M%34 %32%2C%20%33%31%38iC%3B%20E%33%36%20%33%31%38i%2Fis%2FiC%2Fti%3B%20Z%33%20%31%2E%39

and this

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=11-42-1-432-228-BOE&catalog_description=BUSHING


thats all i need? im just confused because on the info in pelican parts it says gasket "e30 318i m42" so i dont know if im ordering the right stuff... help! thanks.

tiFreak
05-13-2010, 04:35 AM
the E30 and E36 318's used pretty much the same engine, so plenty of parts were shared between the two

2MIZ129
05-13-2010, 04:39 AM
thanks! wish me luck.

cooljess76
05-13-2010, 04:52 AM
You don't need to replace the "bushing", just order the paper gasket and two o-rings.

dave45056
05-13-2010, 05:36 AM
You don't need to replace the "bushing", just order the paper gasket and two o-rings.

Probably but... The Bushing comes with both o-rings and costs about 8 bucks. O-rings bought seperately cost 5 bucks each. So it's cheaper to buy the Bushing.

goundena
07-09-2010, 10:58 AM
thanks for the excellent write. gonna try this tomorrow.

iananderson02
10-19-2010, 03:45 AM
is there a specific reason not to hit the alternator with a hammer?

Mopho
10-19-2010, 04:07 AM
is there a specific reason not to hit the alternator with a hammer?
well, the best way to get the alternator to fit back in is to clean up the surfaces that are binding. Then line it up right, and you can tap it into place using a leather mallot or a hard rubber one that will not crack the housing on the alternator.
Caution is of upmost importance, patience is a necessity, and have fun.

I ended up shaving a few thousandths off the alternator and bracket mounts to get mine to press fit back in. Just make sure you have them lined up properly, and don't tap too hard. I think I used an old hammer handle I keep for just such occasions.....Putting a block of wood between the alternator and your hammer would also work. I cannot stress how important it is to make sure you have it aligned right.
I have been working on cars since 1967 when I got out of high school. I still had a bitch of a time getting mine in, someone had overtightened mine at one time or another. (probably the factory)) :cool:

joejac
11-13-2010, 11:24 PM
Wow, this looks like it could work for me. Thanks Dave for the complete step by step.

the brit
12-21-2010, 07:56 PM
Thanks for the write-up, and for saving it as a PDF so the images aren't lost. Hopefully between this job and a new valve cover gasket the driveway will stay clean for a while!

Mopho
12-27-2010, 07:19 PM
While you have it apart, check belts, change water pump and hoses. I got mine done earlier this year only to find out someone had changed the lower radiator hose and put it on backwards so it occaisonally rubbed on the pullys, started leaking, blew the head gasket and cost me $2500 for a top end gasket set and a valve job (while it was apart, had 145K on the motor).

osu_ti
12-30-2010, 08:34 PM
Thanks for the write up. A couple of things that help me:

The o-rings are metric size 24x3. Any decent auto parts store should carry a set of metric o-rings with this size. Should be cheaper and easier than ordering from bmw. Also helpful to know if your local BMW dealer has the gasket but not the bush or o-rings in stock.

I didn't detach the power steering pump from the large bracket that it and the alternator mount on. I just removed the 5 bolts (4 into the block + 1 pivot) and moved the assembly (bracket, pump, and tensioner) out of the way enough to get to the 6 bolts holding the filter housing on. That made things go a little more quickly.

slow_ti
02-06-2011, 12:57 AM
hey guys, great write up, but im stuck, i have everything off, and have the the alternator unbolted and im stuck because on the back off the alternator, there is the rubber flap, i pulled that back and took the of the bolts, 10mm and 13mm. now the plastic piece on the back of the alternator wont budge, how would you take this off with out breaking it? i know it has two wires inside it, any tips and suggestions would be great! thanks so much

spidertri
02-06-2011, 01:34 AM
IIRC, the plastic piece is a tray for the wires, just pop the wires out of it. The plastic piece and rubber flap stay on the alternator.

Mopho
02-06-2011, 02:10 AM
IIRC, the plastic piece is a tray for the wires, just pop the wires out of it. The plastic piece and rubber flap stay on the alternator.

Yep. A little hard to reach, but if you have the right tools no problem.
I think I used a 1/4 drive ratchet and sockets. Be careful to not disturb the
wiring too much. Might have something crack or short out later.
I'v done 2 of them now, ain't it fun?

:smile:

slow_ti
02-06-2011, 02:15 AM
Haha. Thanks guys. And I'm trying to be as careful as I can. This job sucks first time round lol. How would I disturb the wiring? I hate electronics, scares me. Haha


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mopho
02-06-2011, 02:40 AM
Haha. Thanks guys. And I'm trying to be as careful as I can. This job sucks first time round lol. How would I disturb the wiring? I hate electronics, scares me. Haha
Just try to not bend the wiring too much. On older cars, the wires get brittle, and you may not notice it but problems will arise later with arching, cracking, etc. Same is true with any kind of hose. Vaccum, air, or coolant hoses should either be replaced or treated gently.
Good luck.
I had to have a valve job/head gasket (blown) done last year ( lack the ambition, youth or patience to do it my self any more) and I had ALL the belts, hoses, etc changed that I hadn't already done beforehand.
I'd still pissed he didn't change the one water outlet under the intake manifold. It has over 150K on it now with no problems, (fingers crossed).
:cool:

slow_ti
02-06-2011, 04:28 AM
Just try to not bend the wiring too much. On older cars, the wires get brittle, and you may not notice it but problems will arise later with arching, cracking, etc. Same is true with any kind of hose. Vaccum, air, or coolant hoses should either be replaced or treated gently.
Good luck.
I had to have a valve job/head gasket (blown) done last year ( lack the ambition, youth or patience to do it my self any more) and I had ALL the belts, hoses, etc changed that I hadn't already done beforehand.
I'd still pissed he didn't change the one water outlet under the intake manifold. It has over 150K on it now with no problems, (fingers crossed).
:cool:

Very nice. Thank you for all your information. I did know that about the wires, ;) I have one broken wire or hose, it connects to I think maybe it's a oil catch can or something? I'll post a pic In a few. Maybe you'll know that it is. Thanks !


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

DataTraveler
03-08-2011, 08:36 PM
Printing out for reference when my parts get in. Thanks a ton for this write up. Very much appreciated. :)

GreeleyGal
03-19-2011, 09:35 PM
Followed the write up and the fix went great. No broken bolts and took about an hour and a half, the hardest part was getting the alternator off and then lining up the bolt holes when it came time to put it back on. The old gasket was really hard and brittle and came off in pieces. Massive oil leak is gone! Thanks for the helpful write up!

trikzta
03-19-2011, 10:08 PM
i did this on mine and well it was awesome just hated the taking the alternator part out mine wouldnt budge took me a good 15mins just taking it out and no lie a good 40-50mins putting it back on didnt wanna kill it but yeah for some reason i still see a leak idk if its jst the collected oil that i forgot to clean dripping or still have a leak somewhere on my engine block is not major tho tnx alot for this write up

UberWagen
05-11-2011, 02:44 AM
Finally got around to doing this today. When I finally got down to the housing, looks like I have a leak from my timing cover:mad:. I guess I'll see though.

E30dewd
10-08-2011, 05:43 AM
Just bought my first ti Last week, always been my favorite body style, i have had 4 e30s and this is the first time i got something different, so two days after i got the car it starts losing a qt of oil a day... looked up from underneath and was certain the front main seal was gone... until i chased it back up the engine and found a pool sittin around this housing. Came home from work looked some stuff up online and found this thread, you sir, saved me on this one!

E30dewd
10-16-2011, 07:52 AM
I found out the hard way, def buy the bush cause even if it's not leaking and you replace the gasket, it has a much higher chance of leaking after you reinstall everything... Its a common part some local BMW dealer should have one in stock, just call around. On the bright side what took me 3 hours to do on one night only took an hour the second night lol!

bimbim
11-23-2011, 04:23 PM
I gotta say, my leak was SEVERE, and this fixed the problem completely. I used black rtv sealer on everything including the o ring...not gobs, just a light coating on all contact areas...

geetarspaz
11-23-2011, 05:21 PM
count me in as having this problem, my leak was pretty severe too. i got it fixed though, no more rainbow driveway :)

97TI
12-01-2011, 07:40 AM
Followed this write-up today replacing the gasket and bushing/valve with new orings.
I thought it was going to be harder than it was. Took me about 2 hours to complete.

Thanks to the OP for the write-up.

kziemann
12-22-2011, 01:09 PM
Glad to have joined this site as a new member to trade experiences.
I just replaced the oil filter housing gasket on my 98 318i, and added the O rings. I placed the rings on either end of the cylinder as "end caps" rather than fitting/seating them on the piece itself. In other words, after extracting the cylinder, I placed one O ring down in the open cylinder, and placed the other O ring in the empty housing cylinder before putting it all back together again. When I took the filter housing off, the cylinder didn't have any O rings on it, so I put them into what I thought was the most logical place after calling Bavarian Auto recycling and talking to one of their guys. Everything seems to be working fine (stopped major oil leak) but was curious if anyone has had the same experience. Should I take it all apart again to set the O rings in the appropriate place (seated on the cylinder) as per the ordered part pic? Any advice is always welcome as I am a novice at this (trying to do as much as possible myself). Thanks

bimbim
12-22-2011, 04:53 PM
you better check again about not seeing any O rings, they may be there but hard to tell with all the oil. Other than that if it stopped leaking and you have good oil pressure, I guess its ok...

dave45056
12-22-2011, 05:19 PM
I would take it apart and put the o-rings in the right spot. Installing them as you did may not seal correctly, even if it is sealing for the moment.
Putting the o-rings in at the end of thepart makes the stacked height of the cylinder taller, so it may crack the housing or just leak out of the gasket.
Also, the old o-rings probably look like they have a square cross section as they have been installed for so long under heat and pressureThe pic in the write-up shows what they look like new and where they are to be installed.
I would not have bought a part like this used. They are so cheap from the dealer(bushing and gasket cost me $11)
The good news is, doing this job for the second time will take half as much time as doing it the first time.

max911
01-05-2012, 08:02 PM
Recently purchased a '96 ti.
Front of engine was a mess. Engine oil and power steering fluid.
Looked at paperwork that the previous owner had and there was a bill from a BMW dealer that also listed other items that needed repair. There was an estimate to replace the front seal.
While cleaning things up I noticed a clean spot along the oil filter housing. Clean, as in washed with engine oil; not black crud like everywhere else.

Did the repair following the instructions in the DYI. Everything went well, and yes, the alternator is tight on the mounts!
O-rings were square and as hard as the plastic bush.

Thanks for sharing the knowledge!!

max

Mic10is
03-12-2012, 05:42 AM
Does the Bush screw in or does it just push in. It looks likes there are threads to screw in and mine is still stuck on the Block.

I havent bothered to pull really hard bc I didnt want it to snap if it was screw in.
I need to remove it tomorrow so I can install new one and get car back together.

Screw or push/pressure fit?

dave45056
03-12-2012, 05:56 AM
There are no threads on the bush.
Give it a twist in both directions to loosen then pull it straight out.

Mic10is
03-12-2012, 02:22 PM
cool. thanks

Mopho
03-14-2012, 09:28 PM
I have done both 96 ti's I've owned, and the greenie I still have, after having the valve job done (blew head gasket when it overheated from former owners mechanic putting the lower L shaped radiator hose on backwards when the radiator was changed, making it rub on the pulleys, dumb sh-t).
If you change the o-rings and gasket, you will have no more leaks. I can park on my new driveway, not a single drop of oil leaks now (after about 20K).
I thought it was the front crank seal leaking NOT- don't fall for mechanics telling you to change it.
According to my BMW mechanic at BMW dealership, the front crank seal never needs replacing unless you are rebuilding the entire engine.
With 162,000 miles on mine, I use about a quart of oil every 5-7 K now.
So when the oil gets a quart low, it's time to change it (definately run synthetic, it will last longer).
That's my story, and I'm sticking to it. :wink:

slade13
03-15-2012, 07:15 PM
i did this repair a few weeks ago too.simple.

tiFreak
04-27-2012, 06:01 AM
just did this on my track car, it went smoothly up until I went to put the belt back on and stripped screw on the tensioner, turns out it's a T50 and not a 6mm allen :doh: at least I was able to use a pry bar to get the belt back on

AllHands
05-17-2012, 08:56 PM
Hey guys. Newbie here. I love the post and walk-through. I encountered the same broken bolt hitch as Dave45056. In addition, the housing seems to be frozen to the broken-off bolt. All the other bolts have been removed and the housing moves pretty freely; pivoting on the broken bolt. I have wiggled, PB-Busted, even pried a little behind the housing. I can not get it to slide off. I'm on day three of just trying to get the housing to slide off the 1/2" of the bolt that remains hanging out of the block. I know other than the broken bolt its just the Bush holding it on.

So.... ideas? I don't want to pry too hard on the housing and damage it... Nor do I want to pry on the gasketed surfaces.

Help!

AllHands
05-18-2012, 06:01 AM
Well.... I did it. And I was right. The bolt had frozen to the inside of the housing. So what would you have done?

I took the long piece of the bolt that had broken off and turned a 1/8" hole all the way through it on a lathe. I used it as a guide to to drill a pilot into the frozen section of bolt ((careful not to go to deep)so I would have enough bolt to grab with my vise-grips when I got the housing off) Then, without the guide I stepped the bit size up 1/32" of an inch at a time until it was so flimsy the housing pulled right off. The remaining bolt chunk was finger tight in the block. While cleaning the housing I noticed there was still a collar of bolt clinging to the inside of the housing. So I drilled it out too.

Question: When I removed the housing (I'd post pics if I were allowed) I noticed the block and the housing base were divided into several small "chambers". While the filter and filter housing were clean as a whistle.... the upper most chamber in the housing and the block side were full and I mean full of a frightening gritty black sludge (GBS). Of course I cleaned it all out while being careful not to allow it to fall into the impeller area. This is not my first time turning my own wrenches, but... it is my first BMW: '98 Titansilber sunroof delete manual base with sport body. Nice to meet you. What mysteries lurk ahead associate with the GBS? I'm going into the valve cover Monday... wonder what I'll find. There is no smoke... so I doubt it choked back a handful sand.... coolant and reservoir smell oil-free so I doubt it ever ate a bite of head gasket. Curious...

The O-rings on the bush were completely flat. I feel good this thread helped me find and fix my leak.

Thanks Dave45056

mf13368
02-23-2013, 07:42 PM
Thanks to Dave for posting this, just did it and it made the job much easier. Interestingly, I had more trouble with the nuts on the alternator wires than anything else. Getting the alternator on and off was a pita but I guess was expecting it so it didn't seem too bad. I think I still have another leak but maybe this will solve the worst of it.

Mark

MINIz guy
12-01-2013, 05:50 AM
I have a leak coming from my housing now. Does the bush breaks easily when you remove it?

It seems that many get a new bush. I'd like to save a few bucks by just replacing the o-rings. Would it be risky to assume the bush would be fine upon removal?

teetime4one
12-01-2013, 11:44 AM
The gasket is going to need to be replaced as well. The gasket and two O-rings will set you back close to $20. Are you trying not to spend over the 4 or 5 bucks for the O-rings?

MINIz guy
12-01-2013, 03:41 PM
The gasket is around $2. The o-rings are about $1 each and readily available at any auto parts store.

I'm just asking if the bush breaks often, and that is why people replace it, or if people just don't get the individual o-rings.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk

dave45056
12-01-2013, 05:21 PM
For me, I only wanted to do this repair once.
I also looked at just replacing the o-rings, but at the time, 2 o-rings from BMW cost more than the bush which includes the 2 o-rings. Also, I am not sure what material spec the o-rings are or their durometer.
To answer your question... I have never seen the bush break. But think about this. It's a plastic part that gets heat cycled often much like the dreaded cooling system parts. So it cannot last forever. Also it's CHEAP. Current price is 7 bucks-ish from the dealer, too.
I understand about wanting to save money; I'm the same way. So if you want to save 3 bucks on a 2-3 hour job, that's on you. But I would not recommend it.

MINIz guy
12-19-2013, 03:20 AM
Ok, so I'm midway through this whole DIY and decided to stop before my fingers get frostbite.

I just need to put my gasket and bush back on and reassemble.

Do you guys recommend putting some RTV silicone between the housing and gasket to help seal it? I still have the whole tube of red high temp RTV silicone from my valve cover job and I really don't want to go and do this again if it does start leaking again.

1996 328ti
12-19-2013, 09:41 PM
Ok, so I'm midway through this whole DIY and decided to stop before my fingers get frostbite.

I just need to put my gasket and bush back on and reassemble.

Do you guys recommend putting some RTV silicone between the housing and gasket to help seal it? I still have the whole tube of red high temp RTV silicone from my valve cover job and I really don't want to go and do this again if it does start leaking again.I haven't done this yet but I generally always use a light spray of a gasket seal to simply hold the gasket in place.

Additional photos and comments
http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2056958297&page=2 beginning with post 26.

MINIz guy
12-19-2013, 10:16 PM
I ended up with putting some of the red RTV on both mating surfaces. I'm giving it the full 24-hour cure period before firing her up. Here is my quick DIY video on it.

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I found getting the alternator on tricky. I did use a 6" c-clamp and large socket to try and push out the nut/bushing that holds the alternator to its bracket. Once you do that, insert the bottom attachment points first and bolt it in lightly. Then go at the bracket from the top, since it can only pivot in one way. I used a rubber mallet to coerce it in and a screwdriver to align the bolt holes perfectly.

I used a smear of antiseize on the alternator cradle and alternator bolts too.

1996 328ti
12-20-2013, 01:01 AM
Video is very helpful. THANKS!

1996 328ti
12-21-2013, 01:27 AM
I had lots of crud towards the top of the assembly.
I cleaned it up. Just wonder what it was?

1996 328ti
12-24-2013, 11:47 PM
Fairly easy job. Hardest part is getting the alternator back in.
Forgot to plug the oil pressure sensor until after. A real pain.
Be sure to plug it back in before reinstalling the alternator.

Sprayed the oil filter assembly area and timing chain cover with simple green and sprayed with water.
Need to clean the under carriage.

Once it's outside in the cold overnight I'll know if it fixed it.

Thanks for the writeup and tips.

Fubar6701
12-25-2013, 06:55 PM
Great write up! the layout is perfect!

Little Green Car
02-27-2014, 06:13 AM
Awesome info guys! Thanks a million! Just replaced my radiator, then the starter and coolant flange on the back of the engine, not its this project for an oil leak that has been there for quite a while. But its gotten worse. Great pic write-up and video.