E28 Diff install DIY

[Bluebimma]

Disclaimer:
Follow my instructions at your own risk. I am not liable for any damages caused by following my instructions. Proceed at your own risk.

Please read before tearing your car apart and make sure you have everything needed for the swap. The E28 differential swap is the same as installing an E30/24 differential into the E36 compact chassis.


Supplies needed.
E28 Differential
E30 ABS axles and studs or (optional unless lowered)
E36/5 Output Flanges
E36/5 Output shafts
For any medium case diff install on the E36/5, you will need a ///M Coupe, ///M Roadster, any Z-series 6cyl plate or E30 (6cyl.) medium case differential plate. Z3 1.9 and small case differential plates from the E30 318 and m3 do not work with this upgrade. (This is essential to mount the diff to the car since the E28 doesnt have the same mount point)
New locking circlip for the output flanges
2qts of Part# 83 22 1 470 080 from the dealer or an equivalent blend of gear oil with Posi additive
Standard Mectric tool set with 10-19mm, rachets, a breaker bar, open end wrenches, a pipe to use as a breaker bar if you dont own one which can be used with your rachet and wrench, shop towels, gloves, jack stands

Gear ratio file:
http://www.fileden.com/files/2007/1/26/697076/Gear%20Ratio%20Worksheet%20-%20Imperial%20Tony.xls

[Bluebimma]

Your diff may sound like this if the gears have sheared themselves.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o305/bluebimma/Engine%20Swap/th_DSCN1066.jpg (http://s123.photobucket.com/albums/o305/bluebimma/Engine%20Swap/?action=view&current=DSCN1066.flv)

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o305/bluebimma/th_DSCN1067.jpg (http://s123.photobucket.com/albums/o305/bluebimma/?action=view&current=DSCN1067.flv)

[Bluebimma]

First jack the car up. Secure the front wheels from rolling. Stabilize the rear end if working in your garage, etc.
Remove exhaust if needed. I took mine off to be replaced anyways.
The driveshaft to input flange uses a locking nuts which needs to be replaced when done. These require a 16mm wrench and a pipe if you need more leverage to break them loose. Put the gearbox in 1st gear and lock the e-brake so the driveshaft doesn’t spin. Unlock to move on to the other bolts. It really helps to have someone else there to lock and unlock the gearbox/e-brake. Once you remove these, move to the next step.

Next, mark your axles to the output flanges before you unbolt them. The bolts that attach these to the output flanges are male star heads, 10mm. There are a total of 12, 6 per side. Remove those and hang the axles up to the chassis using wire or some other method.


I used a jack to lift the diff just a smidge to get at the next set of bolts. There are two top bolts that require a 19mm wrench and possibly a pipe to break loose. These are a total pain, so stick with it. Once those are removed, go down to the next two bolts at the mid/lower half of the diff, these are also 19mm, but you can easily get a socket and wrench on them.


Next is the last bolt which is the mounting plate bolt and nut. Make sure your diff is secured on a jack or whatever you’re using to lower it from the vehicle, use [2] 19mm sockets and wrenches to unbolt the nut and bolt.
Once unbolted, the diff can now be dropped from the chassis.
While out, there are many things you can and should want to do. You can paint your new diff, the cover, change gaskets, clean the diff, clean the underside of the car, replace bolts, etc.

You will reuse your gear speed sensor, so unbolt that from the old differential, clean it, and install on the new one. Test fits indicate that the fill/drain bolts are interchangeable for the 318Ti, ///M Coupe|Roadster, and E28 differential plates; not sure about the e30 bolts. You will need a new gasket for your E28 diff to diff plate surface.

Installation is the reverse of the removal. When installing the new differential, lift the differential into place and bolt the TOP two bolts first for alignment. You will have great difficulties realigning the new differential if these arent aligned first. Next is the two bottom bolts, then the rear differential plate mount.

[Bluebimma]

Differential diagram.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o305/bluebimma/Engine%20Swap/222.png

E28 Limited slip unit.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o305/bluebimma/Engine%20Swap/DSCN1068.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o305/bluebimma/Engine%20Swap/DSCN1070.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o305/bluebimma/Engine%20Swap/DSCN1071.jpg

[Bluebimma]

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o305/bluebimma/Engine%20Swap/DSCN1069.jpg
///MCoupe/Roadster Finned Differential Mounting Plate
33-11-2-228-335-M9 (http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/pel_search.cgi?please_wait=N&forumid=&threadid=&command=DWsearch&description=33-11-2-228-335-M9&FILTER_B107=ON&FILTER_TECH=ON&FILTER_SUPP=ON&FILTER_ACCE=ON&FILTER_CARE=ON&FILTER_STUF=ON&FILTER_PERF=ON&FILTER_MISC=ON&FILTER_GADG=ON&FILTER_TOOL=ON&FILTER_ABMW=ON&FILTER_BE21=ON&FILTER_BE30=ON&FILTER_BE36=ON&FILTER_BE46=ON&FILTER_BE12=ON&FILTER_BE28=ON&FILTER_BE34=ON&FILTER_BE39=ON&FILTER_BE7S=ON&FILTER_BEZ3=ON&FILTER_BE68=ON&FILTER_BE02=ON&FILTER_BEMI=ON&FILTER_BEX5=ON&FILTER_BMWM=ON)

///Mcoupe Differential plate mounts and aligns perfectly with Medium Case differentials. NOTE: Rear driveshaft was removed due to other complications, this is NOT required for the differential swap.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o305/bluebimma/Engine%20Swap/DSCN1076.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o305/bluebimma/Engine%20Swap/DSCN1073.jpg

E28 Output Flange on the left, E36 Compact on the right. There is a difference in length but nothing to be worried about. You must use the E36 compact output flanges if you wish to reuse the E36 compact axles. They will NOT bolt to the E28 flanges.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o305/bluebimma/Engine%20Swap/DSCN1075.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o305/bluebimma/Engine%20Swap/DSCN1074.jpg

[Bluebimma]

Pictures of a blown differential.

Diagnosis: Damaged 3.45 Input causing excessive damage to Output gear.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o305/bluebimma/Engine%20Swap/DSCN1082.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o305/bluebimma/Engine%20Swap/DSCN1081.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o305/bluebimma/Engine%20Swap/DSCN1077.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o305/bluebimma/Engine%20Swap/DSCN1079.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o305/bluebimma/Engine%20Swap/DSCN1078.jpg

[Bluebimma]

E28 Differential installed.

3.45 to 3.25 is a 300rpm drop in over stock meaning, @80mph youd do 3,800rpm with the 3.45, the 3.25 rolls it at 3,500rpms.

After said and done, enjoy your new Limited-slip Differential.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o305/bluebimma/DSCN1098.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o305/bluebimma/th_DSCN1224.jpg (http://s123.photobucket.com/albums/o305/bluebimma/?action=view&current=DSCN1224.flv)

[thesk8nmidget]

Very nice write up.

One thing though. You do not need a different mouting plate. But it would make it a little easier to line all the nuts and bolts up.

Do you have the part number for the diff cover?

[Bluebimma]

Im not done with the diy yet. Youre saying the 1.9 mount plate and medium case diffs are the same size/bolt on?

I checked it out and compared, theyre by no means the same and the 1.9 mount plate will NOT bolt to an e28 different. None of the holes are lined up.

[Bluebimma]

33-11-2-228-335-M9
MCoupe/Roadster Finned Differential Cover
Pelicanparts.com (http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/pel_search.cgi?please_wait=N&forumid=&threadid=&command=DWsearch&description=33-11-2-228-335-M9&FILTER_B107=ON&FILTER_TECH=ON&FILTER_SUPP=ON&FILTER_ACCE=ON&FILTER_CARE=ON&FILTER_STUF=ON&FILTER_PERF=ON&FILTER_MISC=ON&FILTER_GADG=ON&FILTER_TOOL=ON&FILTER_ABMW=ON&FILTER_BE21=ON&FILTER_BE30=ON&FILTER_BE36=ON&FILTER_BE46=ON&FILTER_BE12=ON&FILTER_BE28=ON&FILTER_BE34=ON&FILTER_BE39=ON&FILTER_BE7S=ON&FILTER_BEZ3=ON&FILTER_BE68=ON&FILTER_BE02=ON&FILTER_BEMI=ON&FILTER_BEX5=ON&FILTER_BMWM=ON)

[thesk8nmidget]

thanks!

[Bluebimma]

Re-edited for final write up, good luck guys and gals!

[Phamster]

Nice! Thanks for the write up.

[FATHER]

i install mine with TI flanges and shaft, i used 2.93lsd, what ratyio you install??

[ATF]

I believe the blown one was a 3.45, He replaced it with a 3.25

Hey Tony,
Did you cuddle with that thing in bed before you put it in? Lying on the garage floor with the thing, getting all dirty.. like it's your baby :D

Nice write up.

[cracker red]

IF you wanted to upgrade the axles, is there a bolt-in solution?

I've already got a e28 LSD sitting around that should be the perfect ratio (3.23) for what I will end up with (m50 turbo).

[Bluebimma]

E30 axles can be bolted in using their flanges and shimming the abs sensor.

[cracker red]

Thank you. There is a lot of conflicting info out there (which is why I asked).

For the time being I'll leave the ti axles in and see what happens. It's not as if I'm going to put huge wrinkle walls on the back end and launch the car all the time.

Hoping for ~350whp w/m50 swap and some boost in the future.

[BMW_Hatchback]

hey Tony I just bought the same LSD as you during the time of this swap, I'm looking to get some E30 axles and a the finned cover before I throw it in.

[bluesteel]

Anyone found the fin cover anywhere for < than $270?

[cracker red]

there are a bunch of them in the local u pull it...attached to medium case diff's on e30's.

I'm going to try and get there sunday, I'll snag a second one if I can, but no promises.

[bluesteel]

there are a bunch of them in the local u pull it...attached to medium case diff's on e30's.

I'm going to try and get there sunday, I'll snag a second one if I can, but no promises.

Thanks, I would appreciate it :biggrin:

[Bluebimma]

Contact Randy Forbes on bimmerforums.com, he may have a few sitting around.

[bluesteel]

Contact Randy Forbes on bimmerforums.com, he may have a few sitting around.

Thank, he had one for me. :smile:

[bluesteel]

I found a medium case diff from a E28 and I am trying to get the output flanges installed correctly. The one side popped right in with no gap and the other pops most of the way in and leaves about a 1/4 gap. I wondered if it mattered and tried putting the diff in the car with no luck. I remember reading that someone had a problem like this and ended up taking one of the grease covers off one of the half shafts to make up the difference. This seems like a hack that others have not had to do. Any suggestions?

[BMW_Hatchback]

how much did he run you bluesteel

[bluesteel]

how much did he run you bluesteel

$115 shipped

[bluesteel]

I found a medium case diff from a E28 and I am trying to get the output flanges installed correctly. The one side popped right in with no gap and the other pops most of the way in and leaves about a 1/4 gap. I wondered if it mattered and tried putting the diff in the car with no luck. I remember reading that someone had a problem like this and ended up taking one of the grease covers off one of the half shafts to make up the difference. This seems like a hack that others have not had to do. Any suggestions?

Ok I got it in. I just had to pull out the output shaft and rotate it slightly and try again. With a little finesse with a hammer I got it to go the rest of the way in and everything fit correctly when I put it in the car. Now tonight I will get the exhaust hung back up and will be back on the road.

[BMW_Hatchback]

so you put E30 flanges on the E28 case?

[Xenocide]

I am not sure what he did, there is no difference between the case on an e28 and an e30, only the rear cover. This should not effect the output flanges.

[bluesteel]

so you put E30 flanges on the E28 case?

I put the stock TI output flanges on the E28 case.

[BMW_Hatchback]

I am not sure what he did, there is no difference between the case on an e28 and an e30, only the rear cover. This should not effect the output flanges.

But isn't there a difference between the E28 output flanges and E30 flanges? Tony said if you want to upgrade to E30 axles, you gotta use the E30 flanges.? right? Thought the cases are the same, are the flanges different?

[Xenocide]

not sure.

[BMW_Hatchback]

When my 2nd E30 halfshaft comes, I'll lay out the whole setup and measure, and report back

[L84THSKY]

The hole pattern on the E28 flanges are not the same as the E30 flanges. Use either 318ti flanges with 318ti halfshafts or E30 flanges with E30 halfshafts.

But isn't there a difference between the E28 output flanges and E30 flanges? Tony said if you want to upgrade to E30 axles, you gotta use the E30 flanges.? right? Thought the cases are the same, are the flanges different?

[Bluebimma]

+1 true wordsThe hole pattern on the E28 flanges are not the same as the E30 flanges. Use either 318ti flanges with 318ti halfshafts or E30 flanges with E30 halfshafts.

[BMW_Hatchback]

good to know, do you guys know how difficult it is to swap the flanges?

[Bluebimma]

They pop out with a flat head and minimal force.

[BMW_Hatchback]

dang really? I was under the impression that they were balls to the wall hard. Looking forward to it. I've got my hands on a 325e axle, and a 325i axle. They are quite different. I am trying to get a hold of a second 325i axle because thats what Jean is running, and it works for him. In the mean time, I'll have to find matching 325i flanges as well, I guess?

[Xenocide]

If you have to apply lots of force something is wrong. I didn't even need a screw driver to pop mine out, just did it by hand.

[BMW_Hatchback]

alright thanks for the speedy reply

[cooljess76]

A little late, but I just stumbled across this vid and remembered this thread.

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[BMW_Hatchback]

Jess, thank you, so much, you do not know how helpful that is man, thanks alot.

[pnosker]

Any way to view this without the "Bandwidth Exceeded" images? Could you turn this into a Word document and I'll host it via pnosker.com?

Thanks!

[Bluebimma]

The pics will be back up on the 28th this month, otherwise, just right click on the non-displaying image, copy the address of the image, then paste it into a separate browser window. Otherwise, send me a pm, so when i get home, i can put you together a small DIY manual via MSword.

[pnosker]

Thanks buddy... I'll just wait for it to work. I'm getting the Diff on monday!

[cooljess76]

which model diff are you getting Patrick?

[pnosker]

which model diff are you getting Patrick?

I'm getting a 2.93 med-case out of an E30 325e... should be good. It only has 40k on it supposedly and I'm going to check it out/buy it on Monday. I found a buyer for my CS 3.45 so hopefully things will go smoothly. I intend to re-use the old half-shafts and flanges. I'm tired of running at 75 mph at 3500 RPM and I think my car has enough torque to handle the 2.93 well enough at this point for AutoX and whatnot. I stuck some decent rubber on (225/45R17 Hankook S1 Evos) and can still break loose between 1-2 shifts, and the shift at 59 mph kills my 0-60 times! I think I can take it down to 5.5 seconds if I get rid of that. I already have a 6800 RPM rev limit on the m44 too...

What are you running with your S52 beast?

[cooljess76]

cool man, I'll be running a medium case 3.46LSD out of an e24 or e28(can't remember which one it came out of) once my ti is back up and running. I had a 3.25LSD, but I decided to go for low end gearing. I ended up selling the 3.25LSD to Marv17. I'm running the M50 manifold on my s52 with Dinan software and the UUC 8.5lb flywheel/e34 M5 clutch combo. Might switch software/injectors and run the 3.5" MAF later down the road. Figured the lower gears will account for the low end torque loss caused by the m50 manifold as well as keep me out of trouble with the law on the high end. Considering the e36 M3's came with 3.23LSD's, my swapped Ti with 3.46LSD should be long gone before the smoke clears, lol.

[pnosker]

Lol... yeah... Isn't the acceleration above 3500 just INSANE with the M50 manifold?! After we swapped my dad's in his M Roadster it was like a whole new car. And after a while, his low end torque is close to what it was before. The only thing we changed was added Pulstar plugs (which despite what I initially though about them [pos marketing], I'm actually getting better gas mileage and maybe a little high end power with them).

[pnosker]

Oh by the way, I have a spare E30 diff cover/mounting thing... you know the thing that bolts up to the diff and has the ear and bushing. If you need it let me know; you can have it for cheap.

[cooljess76]

Well I haven't actually had the car running yet. I'm currently waiting on a stupid brake line which was supposed to arrive today but didn't. I figured while I had the engine out, I'd go ahead and do the brakes, suspension, tie rods and ball joints. Good thing because when I was installing the M3 brakes and steel braided brake lines, the driver's front hard line got stripped out and fell apart due to corrosion. Had to disconnect it from the ABS pump and fish it out through the wheel well. There's no way that brake line will go back in if the engine was in there, not enough room. Probably going to install the diff this weekend while the car is on jackstands and the exhaust is off. I already have an e30 cover and bushing, but thanks for the offer. I'll hit you up if mine has any issues:wink:

[Xenocide]

jess if you have any other diffs LMK, really looking for 3.25 or 3.46

[cooljess76]

jess if you have any other diffs LMK, really looking for 3.25 or 3.46

I'll keep my eyes open next time I head to the yard. Right now I only have my 3.46 that I plan on using, a 4.10 open diff and the stock 3.45 open diff off of the Ti.

[cooljess76]

I'm finally in the process of swapping out my diff. I'm installing the e28 3.46 LSD with e30 cover, flanges and halfshafts. Got the stock diff out, went smoothly except I had to destroy the hub nut locking plates to get them out. They were badly corroded and new ones are on the way. I also went ahead and removed the rear section of the driveshaft. I already had the front section off due to my swap. I'm planning on running the M3 front section paired up with the Ti rear section, M3 ZF tranny & flex disc with the e28 medium case LSD and e30 halfshafts. New Zimmermann rear rotors and pads arrived today which at some point during the swap will find their way onto the Ti along with the steel braided lines and fresh ATE Super Blue fluid. Still need to find gear oil for the diff, but none of the local shops carry Redline so I might have to settle for Royal Purple or Mobil1 if I can't locate a couple quarts within the next few days. Both of my e30 halfshafts have dry and cracking CV boots, so I'm in the process of replacing them as well as well as repacking the joints with fresh grease. Tomorrow I'll mock up the stock ti setup as well as my custom Ti/M3/e28/e30 setup and take measurments. A little off topic but the ZF tranny is approximately 1.5" longer than the Getrag, but the front section of the of the M3 driveshaft is about 1.5" shorter than the Ti's. So in theory, the combo should be a perfect fit. Aside from measuring the overall driveshaft/diff length, I'll also measure the total length between the e30 halfshafts mounted on the medium case diff compared to the stock Ti setup. The Ti halfshafts are longer than the e30 halfshafts, but the Ti's diff is smaller. Anyway, just a little update on my project plans, if anyone here needs pictures of a particular part mentioned, now is the time to ask. And of course, suggestions and/or tips are always appreciated:wink:

[pnosker]

Get Mobil 1. Mine runs great with it and honestly, Redline isn't much better. Don't do Royal Purple. I know many people with bad experiences with them. e30 half shafts are slightly shorter. That's why I had such trouble getting the ti shafts to fit in (had to half-lower the diff). Good luck!

[tiFreak]

bavauto carries Redline, might as well get it from them if you want it, it's not like your car is going to be going anywhere before they get there

[cooljess76]

Get Mobil 1. Mine runs great with it and honestly, Redline isn't much better. Don't do Royal Purple. I know many people with bad experiences with them. e30 half shafts are slightly shorter. That's why I had such trouble getting the ti shafts to fit in (had to half-lower the diff). Good luck!Yeah, I'm guessing that the e30 halfshafts and medium case diff will be very close in overall length to the Ti halfshafts on the Ti diff. Visibly you can tell the Ti shafts are longer, but the diff case is also smaller, so it evens out. When using Ti shafts and flanges on a medium case diff, the fit is really tight. This might cause problems later down the road due to the extra stress put on the CV joints when the suspension is fully extended. That's why I opted for the e30 halfshafts and flanges as well as rebuilding the CV's. I just don't want to deal with any hassles later down the road. When doing the install, I'll make sure to install both of the halfshafts prior to mounting the diff. I'll even tighten the hub nuts completely to ensure the splines are pulled as far outward as they can go:wink: Tony recommended installing the cover after the diff is hung, but I don't want to risk messing up the new gasket. I'll stay away from Royal Purple, thanks for the heads up Patrick.

[cooljess76]

bavauto carries Redline, might as well get it from them if you want it, it's not like your car is going to be going anywhere before they get thereI'll check them out, still haven't checked PepBoys yet and I also have an order being processed at PelicanParts, they might carry it. If it's not too much more than Mobil1, I'll go with RedLine. AutoZone wanted $19 per quart for Mobil1 synthetic:eek:

[pnosker]

Wtf... Mobil 1 was $5/qt at my Autozone. You are getting 75w90 LS right?

[yoda]

Jess,
I bought my RedLine Gear Oil at The NAPA in town, either NAPA or PEPboys should be a place for you to look at for RedLine products. Jess the Mad-Mechanic (Mad-Scientist) with his Hybrid Ti...:tongue: It'll turnout as a monster ride for sure!

[cooljess76]

Wtf... Mobil 1 was $5/qt at my Autozone. You are getting 75w90 LS right?My bad, I was looking at the 75w140 which is for light trucks. The 75w90 was 8 bucks.

Jess,
I bought my RedLine Gear Oil at The NAPA in town, either NAPA or PEPboys should be a place for you to look at for RedLine products. Jess the Mad-Mechanic (Mad-Scientist) with his Hybrid Ti...:tongue: It'll turnout as a monster ride for sure!Just got back from PEPboys. Manny, Moe and Jack didn't have it. I'm calling NAPA right now. Yeah Luis, it's a crazy setup for sure. Who would of thought that it would take parts from 4 different BMW models to make the Ti a monster:biggrin:

[cooljess76]

I ended up getting Mobil1 75w90 Synthetic. The only place that carries Redline gear oil locally was a motorcycle shop on the other end of town. I know a lot of people swear by Redline, but I'm willing to bet that Mobil1 is as good if not better. $11.99 a quart, it better be good!

[Bluebimma]

Ive used Mobil in mine, its alright i guess. OEM bmw fluid, which i think is castrol is some good stuff but its 70$ to get.

[pnosker]

Read this: http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2457.pdf

Mobil 1 does very well on most tests.

[cooljess76]

Read this: http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2457.pdf

Mobil 1 does very will on most tests.

Wow Patrick, thanks for sharing that. It was a great read and I'm glad I went with mobil1. I had a suspicion that it was a little better than Redline. While Redline did do slightly better in some tests, Mobil1 was more consistant. Redline did however fail the foam test where Mobil1 came out near the top. And they didn't score the patch test, but did you see how dirty the Redline was, OMG! Mobil1 scored second only to AMSOIL!

[spidertri]

Wow is right, that study is eye opening. I had always thought that RP and Redline were about equal competitors but man was I wrong. I need to find some Amsoil to put in my diff.

[pnosker]

Well, though it was independent, take it with a grain of salt. A lot of the situations are never even close to hit in a working differential, even on a track. Though I only know of a few people who used RP, they all didn't like it for one reason or another. I say stick with Mobil 1, it's cheap, and it's good. Amsoil is good too, but it's hard to find and more expensive.

[cooljess76]

Ok, I mocked up the diffs next to eachother. The top one is the e28 3.46 LSD with e30 flanges and halfshafts(didn't install the e30 cover yet), the bottom one is the Ti 3.45 small case diff with Ti flanges and halfshafts. Both measured approximately 57" from end to end, the e28/e30 setup is actually about 1/2" shorter. I also measured from center of upper dif mount(between the two bolt holes, not the mount on the cover) to halfshaft end and it was exactly 29" on both diffs. So, being that the e28/e30 halfshaft/flange combo is a little shorter than the stock Ti setup, the halfshafts should go in with no problem and plenty of room to spare if the diff is bolted up first. The reason I'm bolting the diff up first is A) more room to work without the halfshafts, and B) I'm waiting for new CV boots to arrive. When I removed the stock Ti setup, the halfshafts dropped down easily off of the output flanges. So the new setup should have even more room for them to slide up onto the flanges if I install the halfshafts after the diff is hung.

I think the problems Pnosker and Marv ran into was because they used the Ti halfshafts which were too long to use with the medium case diff. Using the e30 halfshafts just makes the install a little easier and might help prevent any excessive stress on the CV joints when the suspension is fully extended. Here's the pic I took of the two setups next to eachother. e28/e30 setup on top, stock Ti setup on bottom:
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa282/schwarz318ti/CIMG3625.jpg
You can't really tell in the pic, but the medium case is much larger than the Ti diff. Also, I haven't yet installed the e30 cover on the e28 diff in the pic.

[Swap_File]

I finished putting my new differential in yesterday. Here is what I used:

E28 3.46 LSD
E30 cover
E30 flanges
E30 reman axles
E36 oil drain and fill plugs (same threads, but easier to remove)
E36 speed sensor

Everything did fit the first time, but it was very tight, and I noticed some rubbing.

This rubbing was mentioned elsewhere:
" Note: With the M-coupe diff cover, one of the cover bolts touches the trunk floor by a small amount. It probably isn't much of a concern as long as the diff clears the metal pieces."
http://www.318ti.org/notebook/diff_conversion/index.html

Well, with my combination of parts it was definitely touching too.

There was also a little rubbing near the rubber mount (mentioned before by someone on 318ti.org), and the breather hole (I hadn't heard of this before).

To fix it, I ground out a bit of steel from the mount, and then ground down the bolt on the diff, and pushed the breather vent thing down a bit.

http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/7399/img6027d.jpg
http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/9862/img6031r.jpg
http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/8079/img6033m.jpg

As you can see, I applied some rust blocking paint to seal up the places that had been scratched up.

Everything fits great now. Installation goes a lot easier when nothing is rubbing.

Note: Both of my reman axles had poor splines. I had to clean them up with a steel brush and a file to get them to go in.

[pnosker]

It seems like some of the 95 and 96 cars have slight rubbing issues. No idea why. Do you have any shots of what you ground down?

EDIT: Nevermind, I see it!

[Swap_File]

My 318ti's build date was 6/96, so that sounds right.

[cooljess76]

I finished putting my new differential in yesterday. Here is what I used:

E28 3.46 LSD
E30 cover
E30 flanges
E30 reman axles
E36 oil drain and fill plugs (same threads, but easier to remove)
E36 speed sensor


Note: Both of my reman axles had poor splines. I had to clean them up with a steel brush and a file to get them to go in.

That's the exact setup that I'm running except for the speed sensor. I have an e30 sensor with the same plug as the Ti. When I swapped the cover, I pulled out the e28 speed sensor and compared it to the e30's. They were exactly the same except the connectors were different. Anyway, I just finished rebuilding my halfshafts with new grease, boots, dust caps, clamps, snap rings, flange bolts.

I'd say if you paid for remanufactured e30 halfshafts, you got ripped off. I cant really tell the condition of the boots, but I can clearly see that they didn't remove the inner boot clamp which means they didn't remove the inner boot which means they couldn't of replaced the outer boot! Besides that, those are original dust caps. When you install a new cv boot kit, they come with new dust caps. Where'd you get those halfshafts? I'd go get your money back.

[cooljess76]

This is what a rebuilt halfshaft should look like, I did these myself:
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa282/schwarz318ti/CIMG3647.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa282/schwarz318ti/CIMG3656.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa282/schwarz318ti/CIMG3657.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa282/schwarz318ti/CIMG3661.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa282/schwarz318ti/CIMG3672.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa282/schwarz318ti/CIMG3673.jpg

[cooljess76]

BTW, did you shim your ABS sensors? If not, you'll be replacing them really soon.
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa282/schwarz318ti/CIMG3690.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa282/schwarz318ti/CIMG3692.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa282/schwarz318ti/CIMG3695.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa282/schwarz318ti/CIMG3702.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa282/schwarz318ti/CIMG3717.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa282/schwarz318ti/CIMG3713.jpg

[Swap_File]

They were $70 each at O'Reily Auto with a lifetime replacement warranty. As long as they work, I can't argue with that price. :)

All the boots and clamps are new, at least as far as I can tell. They might look dusty from sitting around the shop for 8 months. And everything got kinda greasy when I had to pack the inner CVs (with these you have to transfer the end cap thing from the old axles to the new ones).

Edit: ABS sensors are shimmed with M18 oil pan drain plug washers. They fit perfectly, no cutting needed.

[cooljess76]

They were $70 each at O'Reily Auto with a lifetime replacement warranty. As long as they work, I can't argue with that price. :)

All the boots and clamps are new, at least as far as I can tell. They might look dusty from sitting around the shop for 8 months. And everything got kinda greasy when I had to pack the inner CVs (with these you have to transfer the end cap thing from the old axles to the new ones).

Edit: ABS sensors are shimmed with M18 oil pan drain plug washers. They fit perfectly, no cutting needed.Cool, I bought a 4.10 open diff w/halfshafts for 75 bucks, just so I could use the cover, halfshafts, flanges and speed sensor for my e28 diff. I did have to spend another $63 at pelicanparts for the boot kits, but I have comfort knowing they're done right.

So you bought "remanufactured" halfshafts and had to repack the CV joints and use your old caps? The e28 diff has larger flanges and the Ti diff has smaller flanges, neither have the same bolt pattern as the e30 flanges. So which caps did you re use? I circled the clamp that looked old on your pic as well as the dust caps I'm referring to(doesn't look like they've ever been apart). The halfshafts only come apart one way, you have to remove the inner most cap first, then pop the snap ring off of the spline, Remove the inner cv joint, then remove the inner boot, then you could remove the outer boot. The outer CV joint doesn't come apart, so to get the outer boot off, you need to take the inner off first. Not trying to pick apart your swap, but it just seems kinda half-assed since you had everything apart. But hey, as long as it works for you:wink:
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa282/schwarz318ti/wtf.jpg

[Swap_File]

http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/4374/cimg3647.jpg

The circled items was what I had to reuse from my old junk E30 axles. The reman axles came with packs of grease to be shoved in before the circled caps went on.

The rubber boots and clamps are definitely new, they just appear to be reusing the metal part on the boot. And I don't think that will wear out.

Worst case, if it falls apart, I bring back and get another for free.

[chrisbec]

Everything did fit the first time, but it was very tight, and I noticed some rubbing.

This rubbing was mentioned elsewhere:
" Note: With the M-coupe diff cover, one of the cover bolts touches the trunk floor by a small amount. It probably isn't much of a concern as long as the diff clears the metal pieces."
http://www.318ti.org/notebook/diff_conversion/index.html

Well, with my combination of parts it was definitely touching too.

There was also a little rubbing near the rubber mount (mentioned before by someone on 318ti.org), and the breather hole (I hadn't heard of this before).

Came up with a fix for the LSD interfering with the differential support-member. I don't like to beat on my car with a hammer and I didn't like the idea of grinding away the support member. Either solution will cause the support member to have a weak point. The rear cover is very thick and there is enough material there to allow the fasteners to be recessed. I countersink the top 2 rear cover fastener holes 90 degrees (to match the fasteners). Be careful not to countersink too deep and go all the way through the aluminum cover into the cast iron housing. Just countersink deep enough to make the fastener head sit flush. Ace Hardware in my are had the metric countersunk fasteners I needed in stainless steel.

[Xenocide]

I had a lot more interference than that, so I went with the hammer method.

[chrisbec]

Pictures showing the clearance as well as the final installation. NAPA has brand new e30 axle shafts for $90/ea (not remans).

[chrisbec]

I had a lot more interference than that, so I went with the hammer method.

Mine also looked like there was no way it was going in, actually I thought I bought the wrong differential because it just looked too big to fit in that area. Those 2 rear cover bolt heads were hard against the cross member and I tried prying and some forceful persuasion. Once I got the top/front 2 bolts in and supported the rear of the differential with a jack and saw where it was going to sit I realized I just needed to get those fastener heads out of the way. Once I did that it went in with a little jockeying around, but it sits nice with clearance all the way around it.

[cooljess76]

Be sure to shim the ABS sensors.

[chrisbec]

Be sure to shim the ABS sensors.
How thick do you make the spacers? The sensors are just hanging for now, I haven't installed them yet.

[cooljess76]

How thick do you make the spacers? The sensors are just hanging for now, I haven't installed them yet.About 2.25mm. I made mine out of a couple washers with 5/8" holes:
http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=22341&page=30

[chrisbec]

Nice work! Thanks

[Bluebimma]

Quick note:

For those of you with 1996 318tis, BMW make quite a few changeovers which can affect engine swaps as well as differential swaps.

Exterior: One thing i noticed with my 1996, it has 1995 style kidneys but 1995 kidneys will not fit properly.

Engine swap: Some came with the Fuel Pressure Regulator installed underneath the chassis and hoses that lead to the engine like the m44 equipped 97+ 318tis. The 96 is an OBDII chassis and M44b19 equipped, yet the FPR location is on the Fuel rail like on the M42b18 which can make it difficult to install an S52b32 m3 engine due to it using the FPR setup that is normally located under the chassis.

Differential swap: The hatch flooring of the 1996 is different from the 1997+ but im not sure if its the same as the 1995. The issue here is that when you install the larger cased differential with the mcoupe finned differential cover, and possibly the stock one, the top bolt of the differential hits the underside of the car making it impossible to be bolted up properly. To remedy this, ive used an air hammer, grinder, and underbody spary to put notches in the body where these bolts need to sit as well as protected it from rust. You "shouldnt" have any other issues in this department.

[chrisbec]

This mod will probably work in most cases where the non M-coupe cover is being used (an important point since if the M cover is thicker the interference problem would definitely be worse). Due to manufacturing tolerances and that no 2 cars are exactly alike, some will fit tighter than others (fair enough). But the bottom line is the supporting clevis that hangs beneath the trunk floor has to be a given distance from the bolt holes in the subframe support that interface with the top of the differential (+or- a little bit). For my car ('95) the 2 ears of this clevis are on either side of the support member. Unless there is a difference in the height of this support member or some difference in the cross sectional shape of it (both possibilities), there wouldn't be too much variation on its location relative to the subframe. A differential does get mounted in there.

With the mod the diff will have to still have to be jockeyed around a little bit to get it up in there. By countersinking the 2 top bolts you gain about 5-6mm of clearance because you get rid of the fastener head and the washer. I have a pic in a previous post that is a top view and it shows one countersunk bolt on the right and one stock hex head bolt on the left for comparison. This additional clearance will help to get the differential up and nestled into the subframe. This mod is simple and the structure of the car (in some cases) won't have to be changed to get the differential installed where otherwise the support member would need some sort of alteration.

Obviously the other methods for getting the differential installed work too. This approach will work for for this particular problem and since it is so simple I just couldn't help but throw it out there since this is a stumbling block along the way to getting a LSD installed. If anyone is interested in having this done to the cover just let me know, I can get the bolts bolts for you too. :wink:

[juan.manjarres]

Well I was able to get mine to fit by actually hammering the structure a bit but I do hear some vibrations coming from the back as I depress the clutch. I know that bolt is actually up against the frame but I am wondering what can happen if I leave it this way as it was a pain to get it in.

[Bluebimma]

During my research with my new rear end setup, if you have a 96, the crossmember for the differential is different than the other year ti's, its wider, thus creating this issue. Ive measured my 96, 97, and 98 and the 96 is the widest, thus causing an issue with clearance. If your bolt is still touching, theres not much you can do besides just hammering the crossmember a bit more to give clearance. No issue except vibration and annoyance will occur.

[spidertri]

Thanks to Tony and everyone for the diff install tips, I did mine this past weekend.

In case anyone was looking for an easy ABS shim to use, Swap_File's tip of the M18 drain plug gasket worked for me. Advance Auto had a small box of gaskets made by Oil-Tite, part #65356, that are 2.5mm thick and the perfect diameter for the sensor.

[BMW_Hatchback]

Good stuff Dave, take it out for a spin yet?

[spidertri]

Yeah man, I went with the 3.73 and it feels awesome. My stock diff was really wearing out and the new (old) one is much smoother. I am very pleased with the ratio, it is still daily driveable and a lot of fun too.

[BMW_Hatchback]

notice any shift in MPG?

[slow_ti]

Im about To install a 3.73 LSD and I'm excited about the change in ratio but I CAN'T wait to stop one wheeling haha


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[spidertri]

notice any shift in MPG?

Too soon to tell.

[Marv17]

notice any shift in MPG?

if you're going form a 3.46 ratio to a 3.73 ratio the MPG will be a little lower in the highway but okay on the streets.
It'll let you take off faster since the ratio is faster, more torque-y :D I'll feel fun on some turns and short runs.

for my setup/swap ... its been about 1 1/2 yrs so far with a E28 3.25LSD with the ti half shafts, E28 speed sensor, and M-Coupe diff cover. Its been great so far. Didn't have an issue while installing that i can recall.

[angus]

I just bought an E30 325 3:73 LSD and installed it - used the Ti output flanges and axles, has to grind the one bolt on the diff cover and trim the vent pipe, that's it.

Works great.

http://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/z450/angus5/IMG_3966.jpg

http://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/z450/angus5/IMG_3965.jpg

Trimmed the vent pipe

http://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/z450/angus5/IMG_3964.jpg

[cooljess76]

I just bought an E30 325 3:73 LSD and installed it - used the Ti output flanges and axles, has to grind the one bolt on the diff cover and trim the vent pipe, that's it.

Works great.Keep us updated on how those ti halfshafts hold up. Forcing the longer ti halfshafts to work with the wider medium case diff puts a lot of strain on the cv joints.

[angus]

Keep us updated on how those ti halfshafts hold up. Forcing the longer ti halfshafts to work with the wider medium case diff puts a lot of strain on the cv joints.

I have a friend who has run his car for about 8 years with a modded s52 through 3 different e30 diffs and now an Mcoupe diff and still has the Ti axles...

[cooljess76]

I have a friend who has run his car for about 8 years with a modded s52 through 3 different e30 diffs and now an Mcoupe diff and still has the Ti axles...

mmm hmm, Sounds like your friend goes through a lot of diffs... Just sayin, forcing something to fit usually causes other things to break. It's your car though and I wish you the best of luck with it. Congrats on the LSD:wink:

[angus]

Actually if you look at the top pic I posted, you can see that the axles are still pulled away from the flanges since the bolts are all loose - maybe I have shorter axles than most?

[budget76]

Posting so I can find it later. Thanks for confirming I can get the (much)cheaper e30 halfshafts, not the TI ones with me being lowered and having the e28 lsd