J!m
05-02-2002, 10:58 PM
I purchased and installed the "famous" X-brace on my ti last weekend, and thought I'd share the experience with anyone interested in doing this. I also welcome comments.
1) get the brace: I got mine (new) of of eBay for $109.00. The best price I found outside of that is Turner Motorsport (800-280-6966) for $130.00 Used items may be available also.
2) Get the "riv-nuts": These suckers are cool. Basically, they work like a big pop-rivet, but they have threads inside. Get this kit from Turner as well (it may come with the X-brace from them, not sure)I think it was $12.00 including shipping. CHEAP.
3) Get the right drill bits: You need a (recomended) 11mm drill bit as well as a 6-flute 90 degree counter-sink. BUT, as I could not find an 11mm bit in my collection, I opted to go a bit smaller, at 27/64. (it's only about 0.004 inch smaller) It works well, but it is a bit tight. Pay attention to the next steps.
4) Drill and install the riv-nuts: OK. Safely raise and secure the car so you don't get killed. Now, the rear of the X-brace replaces that 3/4 inch (1 inch on sport models) pipe with the flattened ends behind your front tires. Now, DON'T MOVE THE CAR with this bar removed, or you will NEVER line up the holes again, OK? OK. Remove the stock pipe. Chuck it in the weeds. Place the x-brace in position, and snug-up the bolts (don't go crazy, because you will be taking it down again in a minute). Now, look at where the front lines up, nice and neat under the cross-member that the lower control arms are bolted to. And, how about that! There are six holes which line up with the six holes in the brace! Amazing!
5) Actually start drilling: OK. Now, the factory uses only FOUR of the six possible holes. Take a grease pencil or whatever and make a mark next to the holes which are most out-board and in-board on each "ear" of the brace. (it will make sence when you are under there). Now remove the brace, and drill out those holes to 11mm, or 27/64. If you use the latter size, don't be afraid to move the drill around a bit. The hole will be tight. Next, put the counter-sink in the drill and chamfer the holes a bit. Look at the riv-nuts to get a feel for how deep to chamfer. It does not have to be perfect, since the brace will hide your sins.
6) Installing the nuts: THIS is the tricky part. In the kit from Turner, you get four riv-nuts, 4 large washers, 4 short 8mm bolts, 2 large washers, 2 8mm nuts and a long 8mm bolt. Take the long 8mm bolt and lube it up. Thread on one of the 8mm nuts, then a small washer, then a riv-nut. Thread the riv-nut so EVERY thread is engaged by the long bolt. Get your trusty hammer, and after snugging the nut and washer against the face of the riv-nut (Not too tight, or the riv-nut will never fit! FINGER TIGHT), pound it in by the bolt head. Be careful, if it goes crooked, you will be screwed. Kepp it as straight as possible with the cross member. I got all mine in with minimal diffuculty. Do one at a time! Now, holding the BOLT head from turning, as well as applying pressure into the hole, turn the NUT ONLY to pull the riv-nut into position.(I used a shallow socket on a ratchet set to REMOVE a bolt on the bolt, and an open-end wrench on the nut) Don't go too crazy here, the threads can be ripped right out if you go hulkster on it. Take your time. No rush. With the lube on the threads, it should be fairly smooth till the end. As the resistance gets high, stop and check your work. It should be solid, with no spin. If it spins (not likely with the smaller bit) pull it down a bit more with the nut. Re-lube and repeat for the other three.
7) Now you can bolt it in for real. Don't go crazy with the torque on the bolts. This is a SHEAR load, not a straight pull. A bit of locktite on the threads is not a bad idea, as there are no lock washers provided.
Not all that bad. Once you get going, it should take an hour, tops.
Have fun!
1) get the brace: I got mine (new) of of eBay for $109.00. The best price I found outside of that is Turner Motorsport (800-280-6966) for $130.00 Used items may be available also.
2) Get the "riv-nuts": These suckers are cool. Basically, they work like a big pop-rivet, but they have threads inside. Get this kit from Turner as well (it may come with the X-brace from them, not sure)I think it was $12.00 including shipping. CHEAP.
3) Get the right drill bits: You need a (recomended) 11mm drill bit as well as a 6-flute 90 degree counter-sink. BUT, as I could not find an 11mm bit in my collection, I opted to go a bit smaller, at 27/64. (it's only about 0.004 inch smaller) It works well, but it is a bit tight. Pay attention to the next steps.
4) Drill and install the riv-nuts: OK. Safely raise and secure the car so you don't get killed. Now, the rear of the X-brace replaces that 3/4 inch (1 inch on sport models) pipe with the flattened ends behind your front tires. Now, DON'T MOVE THE CAR with this bar removed, or you will NEVER line up the holes again, OK? OK. Remove the stock pipe. Chuck it in the weeds. Place the x-brace in position, and snug-up the bolts (don't go crazy, because you will be taking it down again in a minute). Now, look at where the front lines up, nice and neat under the cross-member that the lower control arms are bolted to. And, how about that! There are six holes which line up with the six holes in the brace! Amazing!
5) Actually start drilling: OK. Now, the factory uses only FOUR of the six possible holes. Take a grease pencil or whatever and make a mark next to the holes which are most out-board and in-board on each "ear" of the brace. (it will make sence when you are under there). Now remove the brace, and drill out those holes to 11mm, or 27/64. If you use the latter size, don't be afraid to move the drill around a bit. The hole will be tight. Next, put the counter-sink in the drill and chamfer the holes a bit. Look at the riv-nuts to get a feel for how deep to chamfer. It does not have to be perfect, since the brace will hide your sins.
6) Installing the nuts: THIS is the tricky part. In the kit from Turner, you get four riv-nuts, 4 large washers, 4 short 8mm bolts, 2 large washers, 2 8mm nuts and a long 8mm bolt. Take the long 8mm bolt and lube it up. Thread on one of the 8mm nuts, then a small washer, then a riv-nut. Thread the riv-nut so EVERY thread is engaged by the long bolt. Get your trusty hammer, and after snugging the nut and washer against the face of the riv-nut (Not too tight, or the riv-nut will never fit! FINGER TIGHT), pound it in by the bolt head. Be careful, if it goes crooked, you will be screwed. Kepp it as straight as possible with the cross member. I got all mine in with minimal diffuculty. Do one at a time! Now, holding the BOLT head from turning, as well as applying pressure into the hole, turn the NUT ONLY to pull the riv-nut into position.(I used a shallow socket on a ratchet set to REMOVE a bolt on the bolt, and an open-end wrench on the nut) Don't go too crazy here, the threads can be ripped right out if you go hulkster on it. Take your time. No rush. With the lube on the threads, it should be fairly smooth till the end. As the resistance gets high, stop and check your work. It should be solid, with no spin. If it spins (not likely with the smaller bit) pull it down a bit more with the nut. Re-lube and repeat for the other three.
7) Now you can bolt it in for real. Don't go crazy with the torque on the bolts. This is a SHEAR load, not a straight pull. A bit of locktite on the threads is not a bad idea, as there are no lock washers provided.
Not all that bad. Once you get going, it should take an hour, tops.
Have fun!