changing brake pads

[ToddStyles]

any suggestions or web sites to refer to for replacing the brake pads/rotors on my '96 ti? thanks, Todd.

[1996 328ti]

Changing brakes are very easy.
Best bet is just find someone to give you a hand first time around.

After buying jack stands, jack and some basic tools, it probably paid for itself in two pad changed.

http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/brakes/e36_lets_brake_it.html

[This message has been edited by Steven Schlossman (edited 04-10-2001).]

[ToddStyles]

thanks! that's exactly what i was looking for. i ordered my pads today. Todd.

[ToddStyles]

I put new pads all the way around this past weekend. Very easy job... My rotors and sensors were in good shape. Mail ordered the pads, $58 total front and back. Took about an hour and a half. Next time it will take about 45 minutes! thanks for the link. Todd.

[StormSylph]

My pads have been needing changed for over 3 months now. I decided to save the money and cut a hole in the floor board of the driver seat. YA BA DA BA DOO!!! (j/k)

[gooten1]

Yeah, I've done this work on my old ti. Very easy. I can write up a how-to if that would be helpful.

[robcarync]

i changed my brake pads on my TI too...rotors and sensors looked fairly well so i just did pads...wasnt hard at all...my dad changed one wheel and i watched...then i changed the other by myself...woot woot father son moment there.

[gooten1]

Change the sensors! I didn't do that, and one broke after a while. . . . set off the brake light, which made me think I may or may not have brakes going into that next corner...not a good feeling.

[gooten1]

http://www.318ti.org/forum/article.php?a=1

[atlanta318ti]

Hi folks, Just to give you first-timers a confidence boost, I did my brakes for the first time ever this last weekend. I'm a research nut. I found that upgrading to cross-drilled and ceramic pads, may be nice but not necessary and you may get extra noise or cracking in the rotors. I decided to either wait and go with the 328 vented rotors or save the money and go with the big-brake upgrade at a later date. In the interim, I went with parts straight from the dealer, OEM balanced rotors, and Textar brake pads. It cost a little more, but I preferred the peace of mind since it was my first brake job. I replaced the pads, rotors, sensors, inspected my CV boots, and took the time to thoroughly clean the wheel wells in a 1/2 day's time (once you subtract snack breaks, etc...). I encountered one problem where the rotor retaining bolt on one wheel had been stripped (probably by one of those $99 for all four brakes shops). Luckily, I followed the good advice of one of our comrades and purchased 4 new retaining bolts at the dealership prior to the job for a mere pittance. The best advice I can give from one first-timer to another is to take read through the advice of all those that have posted on this site. And just take it slow and approach it methodically.

[atlanta318ti]

BTW, that was all four rotors and pads in a little over 1/2 day. I love the simplicity of these brakes!

[gooten1]

Glad it went well!

[demeegod]

:) I just got my hands on one of these cool little demons and have to change the brakes on it... I can see the cross drilled rotors through the rims and they look fine.

So I'm assuming i only need pads and maybe new sensors.

I've never changed the brake pads on anything before.

Think I'll make it... or is there a change brakes on BMWs for the mechanically not inclined? I know tons about theory.. just never had to do anything to a car myself.

[1996 328ti]

Brake pads are very easy on BMWs.

http://www.318ti.org/forum/article.php?a=1
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/brakes/e36_lets_brake_it.html

[demeegod]

IMMENSELY informative. Thank you. Now to rebuilding the engine for fun :)

Just kidding.

[gooten1]

I'll need a new clutch soon...I feel it slipping a bit when I'm going into third sometimes. I also feel another write-up coming on..."Changing the Clutch Pads" by yours truly. (=

[demeegod]

I never thanked you guys. I went to my father in laws home (or one day going to be) and used his car jacks, air compressor, impact, allen wrench kit, flathead screwdrivers and did the brakes in like 20 minutes... all four wheels pads and front and back sensors.

Front rotors were fine and half the pad was worn, i replaced them anyhow. Back rotos look thin and the pads were near gone, I just changed the pads and sensors but at next brake job Im changing the rear rotors and having the front cross drilled rotors smooth... there is one slight groove in the front pads.. nothing too bad... but will get them resurfaced next time.

Thanks guy. Like I said... i know my way around ... very old american cars.... i know NOTHING about these electrical generation thingies... sensors and ... i was laughing when I realized this vehicle gets the hole bolt unscrewed... not just caps... I thought to myself... ****.. it will be a pain putting these heavy ass rims back on!

BTW... a little off topic... does having 19" rims and low profile tires kill my speedometer readings? I have no idea how fast Im going most of the times.

[1996 328ti]

You should also use antiseize compound on the retaining bolt.
There is no need to replace sensors unless they wore through.

[demeegod]

just figured I would change all the things while i was there to begin with <shrugs>. Retaining bolts? As in the bolts that stick on the tires or one on the caliper???

[1996 328ti]

just figured I would change all the things while i was there to begin with <shrugs>. Retaining bolts? As in the bolts that stick on the tires or one on the caliper???
You have carrier bolts that don't get changed when replacing pads.
They are a bitch to remove though.
You have carrier pins that the caliper slides on.
Then you have one retaining bolt that holds the rotor onto the hub.
I always keep a couple extra ones in my toolbox.
It does not have to be cranked down. It is there just so the rotor stays in place while you mount the tire.

[demeegod]

OH! I didnt take any of those off... i never took the rotors off.