heater not working

[Leonardas]

Help, I can get almost no heat from the
heater on the '97 318ti. I had this fixed
once under warranty. I just had a new
thermostat installed, so that's not the
problem. I was looking at the electrical
diagram in the Bently manual and the heater
system is electrically operated. Does
anyone know if it's usually the control
model that goes bad or is it the heater
valve/solinoid?

Thanks,

[ayton]

bleed the system for air. check the bottom return hose on the left side of the radiator if its cold, you have air.

[This message has been edited by kinkajou (edited 01-15-2003).]

[Sparco]

I have the same problem and i did bleed the radiator and my heater still barely works. Any other reasons that it might not be working. I have a 95ti

[Sparco]

I have the same problem and i did bleed the radiator and my heater still barely works. Any other reasons that it might not be working. I have a 95ti

[1996 328ti]

Two problems.
One it could be a loose cable to the temp knob in the dash. You would need to remove the glove box and knee bolster. Pop the cable back on and secure it witha small screw so it doesn't happen again. There is actually a BMW bulletin on it.
Two it could be your bypass valve. It's located near the firewall. It's much easier to replace than taking apart the dash. I think you should be able to feel warm water going through one of the hoses if it's working.

When I had my car in a couple years ago, the tech took apart the dash and added the screw. The cable did not pop off though. He then replaced the bypass valve. Now I'm warm and toasty.

My money is on the bypass valve.

[Sparco]

thanks however we checked the bypass valve and the hose is hot..and could you direct me to that bulletin??..thanks alot

[ayton]

how did you bleed? when I did mine it took me the better part of 2 days and a couple of test runs in between... I finally positioned the car in the driveway and ran it with the cap off until anti freeze gurgled and spilled over the top (all the air was out) the level dropped and I topped it up.

[Sparco]

there was a screw on the top of the radiator that the handbook said to take out and fill the radiator to the top to push out all the air.

[1996 328ti]

I saw the bulletin at the dealer. I don't have a copy of it. Sorry.

[ayton]

yes that is the bleed screw...use both ways to get the air out ...I know it's a pain.

[Leonardas]

I still can't get my heater to work. I tried bleeding the system multiple
times. using the bleeder screw and pressurizing the system slightly.
I tried replacing the heater valve. I took the glove box out and can
see the linkage moves when the heater control is turned. The hose
from the heater valve going to the firewall feels hot. Any ideas?

Leonard

[caffeinekid]

Does the TI impliment a classic heater core or is that what the "valve" you are referring to is? I had a blocked heater core on a Peugeot once with the same symptoms. No leakage or anything, just cold air in the compartment. Brrr.

Is there a fuse for the control module?

[J!m]

I suppose it could be blocked, particularly if you have a '95 that never had the cooling system flushed out and/or came from a warm climate where the heater did not get much use.

Since the valve stops the water flow to the core, crap will collect there due to inactivity. in extreme cases, it will corrode the core, and cause the sweet smell of glycol in the carpets!

Just like cycling the A/C compressor every month (your defrost will work 100% better with the compressor on by the way), so should the heat be cycled every month.

It's like they say, the worst abuse for a car is not using it. I hate storing my car for the winter, but I start it every month, and do my heater and A/C cycle. I let the car run until the aux. fan turns on (I have the engine fan now with the 3.2 so it takes a good 1/2 hour-45 minutes to get hot).

If it's not too much trouble, you could pull both hoses from the firewall and feed the garden hose into one side and observe the water flow from the other. It may be all brown and nasty and if so, flush it until the flow is high and the water clear. After it's all back together and bled of air, check the 'potency' of the anti-freeze with one of those testers. It may end up a bit weak from the water in the heater core. I would also schedule (or do) a complete flush-n-fill in the spring to get that tap water out of the system. It's not much, but it can scale up and, as much as I'd like to sell you my 1.9, I doubt you want to buy it when you over-heat yours and warp the head...

[bucksworld]

I suppose it could be blocked, particularly if you have a '95 that never had the cooling system flushed out and/or came from a warm climate where the heater did not get much use.

Since the valve stops the water flow to the core, crap will collect there due to inactivity. in extreme cases, it will corrode the core, and cause the sweet smell of glycol in the carpets!

Just like cycling the A/C compressor every month (your defrost will work 100% better with the compressor on by the way), so should the heat be cycled every month.

It's like they say, the worst abuse for a car is not using it. I hate storing my car for the winter, but I start it every month, and do my heater and A/C cycle. I let the car run until the aux. fan turns on (I have the engine fan now with the 3.2 so it takes a good 1/2 hour-45 minutes to get hot).

If it's not too much trouble, you could pull both hoses from the firewall and feed the garden hose into one side and observe the water flow from the other. It may be all brown and nasty and if so, flush it until the flow is high and the water clear. After it's all back together and bled of air, check the 'potency' of the anti-freeze with one of those testers. It may end up a bit weak from the water in the heater core. I would also schedule (or do) a complete flush-n-fill in the spring to get that tap water out of the system. It's not much, but it can scale up and, as much as I'd like to sell you my 1.9, I doubt you want to buy it when you over-heat yours and warp the head...

I have the same problem and I live in Florida it's just starting too get real cold. Man' I just might live without it. This seems like a lot of work and money. The heater core, that valve thing and the cable. Plus u have too bleed the hell out of it. I only got two more cold months. I will do the new hoses and thermostat and flush w/bleed. If that does not do it, I'll
give it up and pray for a mild winter.

By the way, what kind of water does one use? Distilled?

And just in case; how do u work on the heater core? Do u need to take the intake manifold off to replace heater core and hoses. Is That bypass valve right there where u connect both hoses on firewall.
Anyone got any pics on this? I just might reconsider and fix mine. 95ti

[bucksworld]

Two problems.
One it could be a loose cable to the temp knob in the dash. You would need to remove the glove box and knee bolster. Pop the cable back on and secure it witha small screw so it doesn't happen again. There is actually a BMW bulletin on it.
Two it could be your bypass valve. It's located near the firewall. It's much easier to replace than taking apart the dash. I think you should be able to feel warm water going through one of the hoses if it's working.

When I had my car in a couple years ago, the tech took apart the dash and added the screw. The cable did not pop off though. He then replaced the bypass valve. Now I'm warm and toasty.

My money is on the bypass valve.

Do u have a picture of the heater bypass valve? or diy heater bypass install? anyone? m42 95........

[RaveX]

I had the same problem, tried bleeding the system and everything, and this thread solved all my problems: http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2273

Turns out, when I took it in over the summer to have the A/C fixed, they knocked the cable that runs to the mixing flap free, and the mixing flap wouldn't shut out the cold air entirely. Not too hard to fix, I can post pics to help if you decide to look into it.

[bucksworld]

I had the same problem, tried bleeding the system and everything, and this thread solved all my problems: http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2273

Turns out, when I took it in over the summer to have the A/C fixed, they knocked the cable that runs to the mixing flap free, and the mixing flap wouldn't shut out the cold air entirely. Not too hard to fix, I can post pics to help if you decide to look into it.

Yes...I got the glove box out and can see the orange part of the cable moving. What else do I look at to make sure the cable is working? OK.....now it doesn't move. The f'''' cable is broken

[1996 328ti]

Yes...I got the glove box out and can see the orange part of the cable moving. What else do I look at to make sure the cable is working?Just be sure it's connected. I believe the fix is to drill a small hole and secure with a screw.

[RaveX]

Yes...I got the glove box out and can see the orange part of the cable moving. What else do I look at to make sure the cable is working?

Like he said above, you want to make sure that the cable housing is clipped to the duct-- you don't really want the orange part (which is the housing) moving very much, what you want is the metal cable moving. If the housing is moving, it won't pull quite enough to pull the yellow lever all the way shut.

The way that I used to see if it's working properly was to see how far the yellow lever is moving when I turned the dial, then I disconnected the metal clip attached to it and moved the yellow lever manually. If the lever moves farther when you move it by hand than it does when the cable is pulling on it, you've got your culprit.

Incidentally, I didn't even need to drill a hole and attach the clip with a screw, all I had to do was clip it back on.

[bucksworld]

Like he said above, you want to make sure that the cable housing is clipped to the duct-- you don't really want the orange part (which is the housing) moving very much, what you want is the metal cable moving. If the housing is moving, it won't pull quite enough to pull the yellow lever all the way shut.

The way that I used to see if it's working properly was to see how far the yellow lever is moving when I turned the dial, then I disconnected the metal clip attached to it and moved the yellow lever manually. If the lever moves farther when you move it by hand than it does when the cable is pulling on it, you've got your culprit.

Incidentally, I didn't even need to drill a hole and attach the clip with a screw, all I had to do was clip it back on.



Yea.....My friend came over and went ahead puting the new heater bypass valve on. This seems to be are problem. We got plenty of sut in the radiator water now and have to continue bleeding it or burping it. I don't know when the last time this heater core had any water in it(5 years my guess). My friend says not to flush the core. Is he right? This may bring on a leake in the core by flushing it. I am just happy to have heat. I still have the glove box out. I don't think this is are problem? any more idea's?
Thanks

[1996 328ti]

Incidentally, I didn't even need to drill a hole and attach the clip with a screw, all I had to do was clip it back on.There was a service bulletin to add a screw so it doesn't pop out again.

[bucksworld]

Two problems.
One it could be a loose cable to the temp knob in the dash. You would need to remove the glove box and knee bolster. Pop the cable back on and secure it witha small screw so it doesn't happen again. There is actually a BMW bulletin on it.
Two it could be your bypass valve. It's located near the firewall. It's much easier to replace than taking apart the dash. I think you should be able to feel warm water going through one of the hoses if it's working.

When I had my car in a couple years ago, the tech took apart the dash and added the screw. The cable did not pop off though. He then replaced the bypass valve. Now I'm warm and toasty.

My money is on the bypass valve.

My cable just popped off after replacing the bypass valve; I took off or out the glove box. there is a yellow or orange cable but it does not turn any more when I turn the heater temp control. How and where does it connect? is it located right at the temp switch? Do I have to remove that knee thing? How do i re-attach this cable and are there any pics? Anyone Please?
I think I turned this knob too many times?:confused:

That knee piece, I am going down and taken that out. Looks like three bolts?
Now, I got it all apart. The cable does not work when I turn it. It looks like I need the hole temp. gage piece. I'll have to order it from BMW. I hope this is what I need? Or do I order the cable and knobs too?

[bucksworld]

I cannot go any further the heater cable looks broken. Have to order parts.............

http://picasaweb.google.com/voices007/BMWheatercable

[bucksworld]

http://picasaweb.google.com/voices007/BMWheatercable

Still not sure what to order? Cable does not work. What is broken? Anyone? Just to be safe; Ordering new cable and new glove box w/air vent; someone was in here before and **** was broken.

[bucksworld]

For any ones information, I completed repairs on heater cable. What had happen is that the cable came loose at both ends. Simple put a kink in cable so it doesn't come off again and a screw was put under linkage so it doesn't come off again on the opposite connection. Nice and toasty in cold and frigid in hot weather. :biggrin: :dance:

[magman]

Hi, I have the same problem. Very poor heat. Do you know the parts number on the bypass valve? Do you have ay pictures on where it is located and how to replace it? I am in Crownsville, just north of Annapolis, MD I saw that you are in Gaitersburg. It is cold with no heat. thanks

[bucksworld]

Sorry, I can't add any more new info and I don't no the number for the heater valve. The heater valve was my problem and I think it cost around $80 bucks. I later knocked the cable off becuase I jerk on it too hard. Hey I live in Florida by the way and u most be at near 0 this time of year wear your at. Good luck and stay warm.............

[OCCI]

I WAS JUST WONDERING WHERE IS THIS CABLE??I.E. IT RUNS FROM THE SWITCH TO??? THANX

[bucksworld]

The cable runs from the switch to the flap in the vent. U have to brake the vent apart to see the cable. Remove the knee piece and brake the vent apart. There may be one bolt that holds the pieces of vent together.