NOS?

[SDyoung]

I have a 1995 318ti with 30,000 miles on it. It needs more power and torque at low rpms....I want to find a super charger for it one day but would it be ok if i gave it 55 shot of nos on it? Anyone out there shotting juice? thanks

[J!m]

Bottles are for babies.

Save up and get the blower. The "juice" may do irreversible harm while you wait for the money for the blower. It actually is an art setting those up correctly... Plus, you will have a longer wait, since you will spend money on the NOS kit...

------------------
"Speed's just a question of money. How fast you 'wanna go?"

[asianwitattitude]

i hear if you get some sort of turbo kit or supercharge kit and have an intercooler, you can have nos express send nos to your intercooler which will give you a lot of hp gain and also not really mess up your pistons by throwing that **** in those. thats just what i think. im not too sure though

[fourbanger]

send the NO2 to the intercooler? never heard of that. regardless, it'll get to your pistons eventually (otherwise, what's the point?). However, i agree with J!m, skip the throttle in a bottle.

However, if you REALLY have to get a couple of shots in, rig it to the pedal. If you have it on a button, you run lots of risks (police, hitting it accidentally, etc). Whereas if you have it on the pedal, it only engages at full throttle and if you have the valve closed, no nos.

[J!m]

I stand by my original statement. (that and: No matter how fast you build it, there's ALWAYS something faster.")

However, using the Nitros (or other super-cool gas) to cool the intercooler (not injecting it into the cumbustion chamber at all) is an interesting idea. Liquid Nitrogen would be pretty trick too, with all that 'fog' coming out from under your car as it evaporates.... Check on cost of super-cool gases. It may be too expensive.

Basically (in normal use), the Nitros cools the air-fuel charge going into the engine, giving 'artificial displacement' by allowing the air-fuel volume of a larger engine to enter your smaller combustion chamber. Pretty simple stuff, really, but when things go wrong, you walk.

You should get the same effect (perhaps less dramatic) by cooling the intake down. I have seen insulation on the intake to insulate it from under-hood heat, but the 'cheap-ass-plastic' intake on the six cylinder cars is really quite genius, in that the plastic does not conduct heat like an aluminum (or cast-iron) intake does. It still gets warm sure, but not like aluminum... Maybe you have noticed ice bags on the intakes at the drag strip? "Cool cans" were very popular once. These are stainless steel 'ice buckets' with a copper coil inside the fuel runs through. You fill the can with ice, and it makes the fuel cool and dense. If you can get enough air in, this makes big power. (on an old carburetted car) Sort of the same idea as Nitros- just 'old school'.

Why couldn't you place an intercooler on a non-turbo car? Cool down that air before it is even filtered maybe, then insulate the intake manifold... Interesting. This may be worth a couple HP (perhaps the gains vs. aggravation are not worth it...). There is the restriction of the cooler itself, but if you go oversize with it, it could work quite well, especially if the air box is gone and the intercooler goes straight to the air mass meter. Put an oversize cone on the other end of the intercooler to make it easier to breathe. It could not possibly be any worse than the stock set up- but you would have MUCH cooler air, because the hose would not pass over the hot radiator as it makes it's way leisurely to the engine...

But wait- If the air actually going into the air mass meter is cooler than ambient air temperature, you will most likely create a lean condition. That temperature sensor in your air box will most likely need to be rigged to the plumbing (but not in the direct stream to limit wind-chill effects). Now I'm not sure how well this will work. BUT, I think the oxygen sensors would figure this out and re-calibrate, maybe not... On a turbo car, all you want to do is bring the compressed air temperature bact to ambient (which is why the air-to-air intercooler make so much sense). Compressed air is hot.

I think one of the automakers is looking into using the A/C compressor to cool the intercooler air for more power. (Ford maybe?)

This all sounds very interesting to me... Let me know what you all think.

J!m

[Stomp]

Just installed a Nitrous Express Wet Kit on my 95'TI. I love the 50 hp shot.


Stomp~

[Jeff Spooner]

Nitrous is good cheap horsepower. Buy a kit that that has a controlleron the dash to monitor the air/fuel mixture and on/off switch. As long as you dont run lean you will not hurt the motor. Your cars computer will handle around a 75hp shot by adding more fuel to keep it from going lean. anything more and you need a wet system that sprays extra fuel W/ the gas. The abuse done by a 150hp shot is the same as a 150hp turbo system, either one could do damage if not tuned properly. Making sure you have enough fuel to keep it from going too lean is critical. Spend a little extra to buy a top of the line kit will save in the long run.

[schussey]

which is better, a wet or dry system?

[Jeff Spooner]

A wet system would be better because you know the fuel is there. The max dry system ypu can run is 75hp to be safe. NOS's wet system for 4cyl is rated at 80-250hp. cost about $750 from AUTOPARTSWORLD.COM

[schussey]

what excactly is the difference between wet and dry setups? I am seriously considering ordering a setup. (zex)

[318tibimmer]

I have a Dry Zex setup running a 55shot. I love it - I also made myself a box where I can change the AirTemp that the computer is reading. So when I am running NOS I can make the computer think that it is 150 Deg outside and it will run the engine rich. No possible way to have Detonation, unless you run out of fule or are running a very low grade fule. The thing that I like about zex is that it runs off your TPS not a micro switch mounted under the pedal. There are 2 problems with NOS - and both are the user's problem. 1 they don't set the system up right (Causing Detonation), 2nd is the driver uses it all the time. It is not meant for an all the time power boost only if you are racing or something like that (Need to go fast for short period). My old roommate would go through a 10lb bottle in and hour, and really wasn't racing but a couple of people. Last NOS will not do any more damage to a motor than a turbo or a supercharger. There is a misconception out there. There because people didn't know what they were doing and blew up there motor then blamed it on the Nitrous. If it is setup right (not throwing a 200shot on a car that can't handel it), and make sure your getting fule all is well.

[318tibimmer]

Sorry Schussey -

Wet system injects both Fule and Nitrous at the same time - normaly injected directly into each Cyl.

A Dry system just injects straight Nitrous, can be direct port, but normally injected into the intake, just after the MAF that way you get proper atomization and you are not runnning a load of NOS in just the first couple of Cyl.

[schussey]

cool man, thanks for the reply

[Tyler]

I'd suggest a Downing Atlanta Supercharger,it's about 4 grand and will give you about 215hp so thats about a 75hp gain.

[Stomp]

A "wet" system: You run an extra fuel line to a Fuel Solenoid, then from the solenoid, to the nitrous injector. The purpose of the wet system is to make certain that the stochiometric mix does not vanish, and go too lean. You want more fuel in there if you plan on running a larger shot of nitrous into the motor. Also, do yourself a favor...Replace your plugs before you even try the nitrous, and then check them from time to time. I agree that an air/fuel guage is best to watch your mix, but NOTHING beats the naked eye! Check your plugs often, and make sure it is not running too lean. Best of luck to ya'! I love my NX wet kit. It's great!

Stomp~

[schussey]

tyler- the reason I am thinking about going with a nitrous system is because of the price of the DA supercharger. For that price, I would buy a M3 engine and swap it. I'm just not too sure if I want to swap the engine yet....

[RAiMA]

Make sure all the extra gear (clutch, radiator, speed ometer, springs, etc) and labour are factored into the cost. You may be suprised at how much it will REALLY cost.

[schussey]

yea I know it will be over 4,000.

[demeegod]

IT will be a whole lot more than 4 grand to set it up RIGHT.

[L84THSKY]

That is exactly what I was thinking. The DA supercharger may be $4000.00 installed, but add the clutch, springs, brakes and cooling system, and you're more like $6000.00.

That's why I am try to squeeze out some more horsepower, and or acceleration, without turbo or super charging. If I can get my car up to 150-160, I'd be happy.

My real complaint is acceleration, the liteweight flywheel sounds like a good idea. That only costs me $1000.00 with clutch.


Make sure all the extra gear (clutch, radiator, speed ometer, springs, etc) and labour are factored into the cost. You may be suprised at how much it will REALLY cost.

[demeegod]

I think that refers to the engine swap/upgrade... lots goes into an engine swap/upgrade beyond that of just an engine. the extra weight and torque will damage these small little cars if not properly done.

[AlaskaBlue]

Hey ressurecting an old thread. My friend has a zex kit he will sell to me for a very very good price. This is very tempting, but I have a dinan chip. Would that cause predetonation?

[GDB]

Hey ressurecting an old thread. My friend has a zex kit he will sell to me for a very very good price. This is very tempting, but I have a dinan chip. Would that cause predetonation?

It's all in the tune, with the right AF ratios then it shouldn't pose a problem. But finding that right AF ratio could be a bit more troublesome.

[AlaskaBlue]

Well it is a zex kit I bought it today. The zex monitors the Nitrous and the Fuel so the AFR should be right. I am also running a 55 shot.