Air Pump Simulator DIY for $12.45

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

I have completed my final version of my air pump simulator and it passed the testing this morning with no error codes. All parts from Radio Shack and total cost $12.45. No more $150-$200 to buy these online. I will post the complete DIY this evening when I get home from work. Here's a picture of the unit:


http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd37/xxxjohnboyxxx/Air%20Pump%20Simulator%20Final/SecondaryAirPunpDIY010.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd37/xxxjohnboyxxx/Air%20Pump%20Simulator%20Final/SecondaryAirPunpDIY006.jpg

[marko]

wait, what? why are you removing your secondary air pump?
just curious...

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

wait, what? why are you removing your secondary air pump?
just curious...

Been removed for 1.5 years. Needed the room in my engine bay to hide my meth system where the pump was, it's heavy, no use for it when you don't have a cat converter. Track headers don't have the hook-up for the air pump either. Lots of reasons like the ugly piping going accross the front of the engine to the header, etc. I remove all items not needed in my setup. Weight reduction is free excelleration and everything adds up when you do a lot of small things.

The air pump only runs for 2-3 minutes during warm-up to help the cat reach operating temp sooner. That is it's only purpose and I bet it weights 10 pounds.

[marko]

are you sure Nick G cant incorporate the elimination of the SAP into his software, as he does with the DISA valve?

also, how did you plug up the hole for the secondary shut off valve??

Been removed for 1.5 years. Needed the room in my engine bay to hide my meth system where the pump was, it's heavy, no use for it when you don't have a cat converter. Track headers don't have the hook-up for the air pump either. Lots of reasons like the ugly piping going accross the front of the engine to the header, etc. I remove all items not needed in my setup. Weight reduction is free excelleration and everything adds up when you do a lot of small things.

The air pump only runs for 2-3 minutes during warm-up to help the cat reach operating temp sooner. That is it's only purpose and I bet it weights 10 pounds.

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

are you sure Nick G cant incorporate the elimination of the SAP into his software, as he does with the DISA valve?

also, how did you plug up the hole for the secondary shut off valve??

I'm sure Nick can do it but it is illegial to eliminate pollution control devises. Guess it depends on how good of a friend you are with him. DISA valve is not a pollution control devise it is a tuned intake manifold devise that is eliminated with a DASC. I removed everything (Pump, valves, etc) and plugged the hole from the header with a brass plug. When I install the metric motor I'm welding the hole on the header for the air pump and doing a header wrap to reduce heat.

[Xenocide]

Dude, chill out on the solder. Haha, use some flux next time and practice makes perfect!

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

Dude, chill out on the solder. Haha, use some flux next time and practice makes perfect!

Believe it or not I'm a expert at solding. Problem was I was not sober with very shaky hands when I did this. I normally use a air solder gun on pc boards but used a large tip trigger gun. I do hobby wiring on BGA (ball grid array) chips were there are 80 pin out's in the size of a dime, by hand. Also I had to add and remove pots, resistors, etc to get the correct resistance for the mv I needed. I couldn't use OHM's law because the O2 sensor is a voltage generator with no reading or data on watts or amps. If I did one today sober and a fresh board it would look sharp trust me. I would post some pictures of my hobby work but I don't want to expose who I am in the pirating world of smart cards.

John S

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

DIY Secondary Air Pump Simulator.

Secondary Air Pump Parts Needed (All Purchased @ Radio Shack):

1 - Component PC board (#276-149 $1.99)
1 - Component Project Enclosure (#270-1802 $2.69)
1 - SPDT * PC relay miniature 12vdc 10V (#275-248 $4.69)
1 – 5V Voltage regulator (# 276-1770 $1.59)
1 - 100K – ohm Micro Potentiometer (#271-284 $1.49)

Tools Needed:

Soldering pen 7 watts or higher
Solder
Wire
Digital volt meter


Place relay, potentiometer and regulator on board as shown in picture. Solder all pins on back side of board. Go to wiring diagram and make connections. When finished test unit by hooking to 12 volts and set potentiometer with a screwdriver to 200mv from pin DME wire to ground. Potentiometer should be between 45,000 and 50,000 ohms if you want to ohm it out. Questions to jsmith50@tampabay.rr.com

***This is for off road use only***
***I accept no responsibility for items burned out or damaged by mis-use of this devise. The DME & O2 are sensitive devises and can be destroyed by sending the wrong voltage to the units***

Top Of Board

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd37/xxxjohnboyxxx/Air%20Pump%20Simulator%20Final/SecondaryAirPunpDIYTopofBoard.jpg


Bottom of Board

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd37/xxxjohnboyxxx/Air%20Pump%20Simulator%20Final/SecondaryAirPunpDIYbackofboard.jpg


Wiring


http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd37/xxxjohnboyxxx/Air%20Pump%20Simulator%20Final/AirPumpSimWiringSpoon-Feed.jpg

[Jean H.318TI]

wtf i was trying to look for my SAP and i didnt find anything can someone tell me where is located (m44 engine)

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

wtf i was trying to look for my SAP and i didnt find anything can someone tell me where is located (m44 engine)

Should be left side under the hose from the air filter. It's mounted on the strut just above the frame. PM sent back...

[Jean H.318TI]

well i guess i dont have one, weird

[Jean H.318TI]

some pics :eek:

[lpcapital]

I think the secondary air pump was added in 1997.
Your being a 1996 doesn't have it.

[Jean H.318TI]

mine is 5/96 production date

[lpcapital]

mine is 5/96 production date

Yea, I saw that and edited. It was 1997 then (or heck, maybe even 1998), but for sure the 1996 didn't come with one

[Jean H.318TI]

okay thanks for the info

[lpcapital]

I'm seriously thinking about doing this as the way Dawning Atlanta designed the relocation of the SAP it's a PITA... The alternative to the simulator is a small cone filter... Routing that 1" hose all the way up front looks a piss poor job...

Give this will bypass the SAP, how would you bypass the solenoid controlling the vacuum line going the check valve? Would that need to be simulated as well or it's a non self diagnosed part?

[egebhardt]

Ok. I've purchased all the parts at RadioShack for $13. Now I'm trying to determine where the DME and O2 sensor wires come from. The other 2 wires will probably be obvious. I think I'll return the black plastic box and find another way to secure/protect the board. the board doesn't fit in the box correctly.

[Loganx4]

hope this help
http://deluxenailnspa.com/s2000/IMG_0091.jpg
http://deluxenailnspa.com/s2000/IMG_0092.jpg
http://deluxenailnspa.com/s2000/IMG_0093.jpg
http://deluxenailnspa.com/s2000/IMG_0094.jpg

the board does need to be sand down a little bit in order to fit in the box

yellow=ground
green=positive
red=dme
blue=o2

[performanceisland]

xxxJohnBoyxxx can you check my work please, this is my first time making this secondary air pump simulator i want to make sure it is right before i go further.

also the plug that i unplug from the bottom of the sap is the power and ground, but where do i connect the dme and o2 wires to?

thank you.

[uncle]

When you install the simulator, do you leave the pump installed? What is the reccomended places to tap in the wires? I know the + &- must go the the plug in the bottom of the old motor, but where will the othetr two (DME and O2) connect? Should I locate the wire and tap into it?

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

xxxJohnBoyxxx can you check my work please, this is my first time making this secondary air pump simulator i want to make sure it is right before i go further.

also the plug that i unplug from the bottom of the sap is the power and ground, but where do i connect the dme and o2 wires to?

thank you.


Everything looks good. I can't ensure the voltage regulator is in correct by the picture. Looks like you turned it upside-down and wired correctly.

Move to test stage:

1. First test continuity (Meter set to ohms) between DME and O2 wire with no voltage to unit and you should have a dead short. You are ensuring DME and O2 are connected together in the relay when there is no power. If good move to step 2

2. Apply voltage to simulator and listen for relay to click on. With simlator on test voltage positive lead on DME wire and Negative on battery ground. You should see 200mv or .200 volts or close to that. If not adjust the pot resistor to get 200mv or .2 volts on your meter when the unit is active. When completed disconnect power and the unit is tested and calibrated....Ready for install.


+/- connection: SAP positive to Simulator positive so it becomes active only when the SAP is called for by the DME. Negative to any good ground or SAP ground (Your choice ~ Ground is ground)

O2/DME connection: We are only looking for one wire to connect to. The upstream O2 signal...On my car 1997 BMW 318is the O2 signal is grey then goes to the plug and changes to a yellow on the way to the DME. This signal wire is the one we want to tap. You can tap Grey on the O2 or Yellow after the sensor plug which is still the O2 signal wire on it's way to the DME. Cut the signal wire and wire simulator wires O2 to O2 sensor and DME to the wire leading to the DME.

What we are doing here is only putting the simulator in line with that O2 signal wire to fool the DME when the SAP comes on.

Therory ~

When the DME calls for "SAP On" then it expects to see a lean condition on the upstream O2 sensor. If it doesn't see the lean condition from the SAP forcing fresh air in the exhaust it throws a CEL code. This is the only check for the SAP

SAP On ~ Simulator active. The simulator disconnects the O2 sensor from the DME and sends a false 200mv signal to the DME telling it the exhaust gas is very lean. The DME is "happy" since it expects this signal with the SAP on so no CEL or error codes.

SAP Off ~ Simulator off. DME calls for "SAP Off". The simulator when in a off state: When in the off state the relay is used as a pass through for the O2 signal wire so the O2 is connected like the wire was never cut. Car runs like normal and full Lambda conrtrol is active and car runs normal like nothing was ever changed.

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

When you install the simulator, do you leave the pump installed? What is the reccomended places to tap in the wires? I know the + &- must go the the plug in the bottom of the old motor, but where will the othetr two (DME and O2) connect? Should I locate the wire and tap into it?

Your choice on the SAP. I remove it for the extra space and weight removal. Wiring is in post above.

Questions on wiring not explained above or too confusing call me

home: 727 321-0460
cell: 305 742-8559

Eastern Time Zone, Name is John

[performanceisland]

O2/DME connection: We are only looking for one wire to connect to. The upstream O2 signal...On my car 1997 BMW 318is the O2 signal is grey then goes to the plug and changes to a yellow on the way to the DME. This signal wire is the one we want to tap. You can tap Grey on the O2 or Yellow after the sensor plug which is still the O2 signal wire on it's way to the DME. Cut the signal wire and wire simulator wires O2 to O2 sensor and DME to the wire leading to the DME.

if you could clear this up for me a little, i have two wires i need to connect on the simulator the DME wire and the O2 wire, the wires that i need to tap into are somewhere near the sap? where do i find these? you say one wire to connect to? i am not clear on this.

thanks.

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

if you could clear this up for me a little, i have two wires i need to connect on the simulator the DME wire and the O2 wire, the wires that i need to tap into are somewhere near the sap? where do i find these? you say one wire to connect to? i am not clear on this.

thanks.

Yes we cut one wire, the signal wire from the upstream O2 sensor. The cut wire has two ends now. The end leading to the O2 gets connected to the O2 from simulator. The other end that leads to the DME gets connected to the DME wire from the simulator. We are only patching the simulator into one wire of the O2 sensor (the signal wire). When the SIM is off it connects the cut wire so the O2 operates normally like the wire was never cut. When the SIM turns on it disconnects the O2 and sends a false signal (200mv) to the DME to fool it into thinking the SAP is working. Call me at home if not clear, it is so much easier to explain over the phone, I don't mind calls at all. Best John S

[uncle]

Do you think this device would work on a 323 with a 6cylinder M52 OBDII engine? The six has two front O2 Sensors.

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

Do you think this device would work on a 323 with a 6cylinder M52 OBDII engine? The six has two front O2 Sensors.

Yes but you need to make the I-6 version (Dual Bank). I think there is a DIY on that too or at least I posted one with pictures...

[uncle]

Where can I find the DIY for the dual bank version? I tried using Google, and the only one I have found is the one for the M44. Thanks

[lpcapital]

Where can I find the DIY for the dual bank version? I tried using Google, and the only one I have found is the one for the M44. Thanks

I would just make 2 simulators: one per O2 sensor and call it a day. There's enough room on the board to make them fit them in a single box, already sharing ground and 12V inside the box. You'll end up with 6 wires instead of 4: 1 for ground, one for 12v, 2 for O2 (one per sensor) and 2 for DME (one per sensor)...

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

I would just make 2 simulators: one per O2 sensor and call it a day. There's enough room on the board to make them fit them in a single box, already sharing ground and 12V inside the box. You'll end up with 6 wires instead of 4: 1 for ground, one for 12v, 2 for O2 (one per sensor) and 2 for DME (one per sensor)...

I have a DIY for this I'm sure because it was used in the I-4 to I-6 swap manual. It is on this board. If not I will email it too you. Ipcapitol is correct you just make two on one board, the only shared item is the regulator


Edit ~ It's right here ~ http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=24726

[uncle]

Thanks very much. I do appreciate your help. Doug

[performanceisland]

my o2 sensor plug has a black wire, grey wire and two white wires, then at the plug they turn into the following:


black goes to yellow
grey goes to black
white goes to green
white goes to brown

on a 1999 318TI

i read the following on pelican article:

Lastly, with a 4-wire oxygen sensor, the output signal works in a constant loop, essentially, the fuel injection computer sends a signal to the sensor, and the sensor then sends the signal back to the computer. This is achieved by having one wire carry the signal to the sensor, and then another wire carries the signal back to the fuel injection computer. You also have a wire carrying 12 volts to the heating element, and the last wire is the ground for the heating element. (pic o2_sensor_diagram_4 jpg) With a 4-wire sensor, you will need to measure the voltage fluctuations between the two signal wires. To do this, start the car and let it warm up. Next, disconnect the oxygen sensor and measure the voltage between the wires. Now take off the oil filler cap to simulate a rich running condition. Watch the voltage, if it begins to fluctuate rapidly, then the sensor is good and you’re done. If it stays the same, it’s probably fried.

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

my o2 sensor plug has a black wire, grey wire and two white wires, then at the plug they turn into the following:


black goes to yellow
grey goes to black
white goes to green
white goes to brown

on a 1999 318TI

i read the following on pelican article:

Lastly, with a 4-wire oxygen sensor, the output signal works in a constant loop, essentially, the fuel injection computer sends a signal to the sensor, and the sensor then sends the signal back to the computer. This is achieved by having one wire carry the signal to the sensor, and then another wire carries the signal back to the fuel injection computer. You also have a wire carrying 12 volts to the heating element, and the last wire is the ground for the heating element. (pic o2_sensor_diagram_4 jpg) With a 4-wire sensor, you will need to measure the voltage fluctuations between the two signal wires. To do this, start the car and let it warm up. Next, disconnect the oxygen sensor and measure the voltage between the wires. Now take off the oil filler cap to simulate a rich running condition. Watch the voltage, if it begins to fluctuate rapidly, then the sensor is good and you’re done. If it stays the same, it’s probably fried.

The two whites are heater wires the black is ground and the grey is signal. The O2 sensor is a voltage generator. It gererates voltage by the amount of oxygen in the exhaust. At least that is how I undersand them to work and how my simulator works.

If not how could the voltage fluctuate or be present at all if it is disconnected from the harness? Also running a O2 sensor in the exhaust stream without the heater wiries connected is a great way to burn it out real fast, just an FYI.

After speaking with you on the phone I think you have a wire mis-labeled.

O2 sensor wires to tap into O2
White = Heater
White = Heater
Grey = Signal
Black = Ground

After plug O2 wiring to DME cross-over wiring to tap into DME wiring:
Black = Ground pin 46 DME
Yellow = Signal pin 19 DME
Brown = O2 Heater Ground pin 30 DME
Green = Connects to all red/white wiring 12 volts in ignition on key position

[performanceisland]

So i installed my secondary air pump simulator in the car finally a few weeks back, i checked the simulator with multimeter for correct settings, wired it in correctly with help from johnboy here, i dont get any codes for o2 sensors and car runs great as usual, so i know its wired in properly, however i still get the check engine light on at right about 40 miles after scan and reset, whcih is how many miles have to be driven for the SAP system to be ready in the computer, in my 318ti. Its the only code in the ECU and i have reset it three times, same thing every time, at about 40 miles driven after scan code comes back, any ideas?

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

So i installed my secondary air pump simulator in the car finally a few weeks back, i checked the simulator with multimeter for correct settings, wired it in correctly with help from johnboy here, i dont get any codes for o2 sensors and car runs great as usual, so i know its wired in properly, however i still get the check engine light on at right about 40 miles after scan and reset, whcih is how many miles have to be driven for the SAP system to be ready in the computer, in my 318ti. Its the only code in the ECU and i have reset it three times, same thing every time, at about 40 miles driven after scan code comes back, any ideas?

Sap Simulator need to put out voltage of 200mv on red wire to DME when the SAP is active. I think your mv is too high so the DME thinks the SAP is not working. It is very picky and needs to be set at 200mv. Are you sure the SAP is active when you first start the car. It should only run for 30-50 seconds then turn off. If the unit is not working the code should not show until the next time you have a cold start. Nothing about 40 miles into a drive, I've driven 250 miles with no code then the next cold start gave the code when the unit was not working...

I know of at least 25 units with no issues.

[performanceisland]

Sap Simulator need to put out voltage of 200mv on red wire to DME when the SAP is active. I think your mv is too high so the DME thinks the SAP is not working. It is very picky and needs to be set at 200mv. Are you sure the SAP is active when you first start the car. It should only run for 30-50 seconds then turn off. If the unit is not working the code should not show until the next time you have a cold start. Nothing about 40 miles into a drive, I've driven 250 miles with no code then the next cold start gave the code when the unit was not working...

I know of at least 25 units with no issues.

as for the 40 miles the ecu doesnt have the sap ready untill 40 miles after the last code reset, i dont know why this is, but this is why they tell you that if you recently had your cars codes deleted, you need to drive for a while before you take it into emmissions otherwise emmissions computer will tell you that your systems onboard are not ready, this is true because this is my problem, anyway i guess my only option is to try and check the mv readings on my module agian. By the way the check engine light would be triggered and is triggerred on the next cold start, the only difference is that it wont if i just deleted the codes, untill the sap system becomes ready in the computer, (40 miles driven after deleted SAP code on my car) only then is the computer able to check it. Will update after i recheck my module. thanks.

[performanceisland]

once agian i want to say thanks to johnboy for helping me, i figured out it was the voltage regulator that was no good, i rebuilt the simulator and realized the old voltage regulator was not putting out the 5 volts as required. Will be deleteing SAP check engine light code again and will test drive and see what happens.

[performanceisland]

well after remaking the simulator with a working 5 volt regulator, i realized that the simulator is still not turning on (it does turn on when connected directly to the battery instead of using the old SAP wires) (i installed a red led to be able to see too), so got out the multimeter again and went fishing, found that the original GROUND wire going to the SAP was not grounding the whole time!

I moved it to another place and simulator is now functioning, well see how it goes after driving the car for a while.

By the way, if I made the simulator again i would do the following in addition to installing a 12volt LED on the positive lead for SAP, i would also install a different color led on the 5 volt regulator to make sure its working and if possible another color led to show either that the simulator is feeding data to the ecu or that it is off, therefore sending data directly from o2 sensor to ecu.

And better yet install all three leds inside the car next to the ASC-T switch, so i can see it inside, instead of having someone else look under the hood, or me getting out of the car to check. But now im just getting fancy!

[dbsiphone]

So I got all the parts for this mod (and extras because I suck at glueing stuff together) and my BMW buddy asked me if we could do it for his V8 as well. I know the v6 needs the dual bank version, would the v8 need 3 banks?

Thanks in advance. Sorry I forgot to ask him what series this is for.

[mettakun]

DIY Secondary Air Pump Simulator.

Secondary Air Pump Parts Needed (All Purchased @ Radio Shack):

1 - Component PC board (#276-149 $1.99)
1 - Component Project Enclosure (#270-1802 $2.69)
1 - SPDT * PC relay miniature 12vdc 10V (#275-248 $4.69)
1 – 5V Voltage regulator (# 276-1770 $1.59)
1 - 100K – ohm Micro Potentiometer (#271-284 $1.49)

Tools Needed:

Soldering pen 7 watts or higher
Solder
Wire
Digital volt meter


Place relay, potentiometer and regulator on board as shown in picture. Solder all pins on back side of board. Go to wiring diagram and make connections. When finished test unit by hooking to 12 volts and set potentiometer with a screwdriver to 200mv from pin DME wire to ground. Potentiometer should be between 45,000 and 50,000 ohms if you want to ohm it out. Questions to jsmith50@tampabay.rr.com

***This is for off road use only***
***I accept no responsibility for items burned out or damaged by mis-use of this devise. The DME & O2 are sensitive devises and can be destroyed by sending the wrong voltage to the units***

Top Of Board

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd37/xxxjohnboyxxx/Air%20Pump%20Simulator%20Final/SecondaryAirPunpDIYTopofBoard.jpg


Bottom of Board

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd37/xxxjohnboyxxx/Air%20Pump%20Simulator%20Final/SecondaryAirPunpDIYbackofboard.jpg


Wiring


http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd37/xxxjohnboyxxx/Air%20Pump%20Simulator%20Final/AirPumpSimWiringSpoon-Feed.jpg

Where do I locate the DME and O2 sensor from the car to connect the Grey DME wire and Blue O2 sensor wire?
Do you have pictures to show how the wires are connected from the built simulator to the car DME and O2 unit?

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

Find the upstream O2 sensor. Cut the signal wire and patch the Blue wire to the wire you clipped leading to the O2 and the Grey to the other end that you clipped that would lead to the DME.

When the SIM is off it will connect the clipped wire and your O2 work normally and when the SIM turns on it sends a 200mv signal to the DME tricking it so it thinks the air pump is working

[Marv17]

John,
do you think this will work for the 6 cyl motors as well?

[John Firestone]

I think John already answered that....

[mettakun]

Find the upstream O2 sensor. Cut the signal wire and patch the Blue wire to the wire you clipped leading to the O2 and the Grey to the other end that you clipped that would lead to the DME.

When the SIM is off it will connect the clipped wire and your O2 work normally and when the SIM turns on it sends a 200mv signal to the DME tricking it so it thinks the air pump is working

My car is the 1997 BMW 328I. There are two O2 sensors. They both have the following color code: Black, Red, Yellow and White. So,
How do I know which O2 to tap into because there are two O2 sensors?
Which wire COLOR is the signal for the DME?

[JP422]

Bump for a great article~ :cool:

[PitchblakToxic7]

Would someone be willing to build me one of these for like $20 bucks for my S52 swap? I really don't have the time but my car will need to pass emissions.

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

It is hard to find someone to make one for you when you want to use it to pass emissions. These are to be used for track or off road use only, this is to protect 318ti.org for posting this DIY. If the intended use is track or off road then it might be easier to find someone to build one for you.

Also $20 will barely cover the parts for a 2-bank which you will need for a I-6. The $12 one is for the 1-bank version for the I-4.

Best, John Smith

[PitchblakToxic7]

Ah I understand, how do you make a two bank system? I guess I'll have to wait to do the delete till I rally the car, time to start looking for a secondary air pump :( $$

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

Ah I understand, how do you make a two bank system? I guess I'll have to wait to do the delete till I rally the car, time to start looking for a secondary air pump :( $$

Sorry to spoon feed you but if you start at the beginning of the thread you will find it. It is all in this one thread. If you need any help ask or email me and I will help. People are running these on all kinds of cars: Chevys, Fords, Imports, Etc.

I was getting a lot of emails in the beginning but it has slowed down lately.

Good luck, John S

[PitchblakToxic7]

Hahah no it's cool, it was late and I wasn't paying attention, Thanks for all your help though.

[bsaint]

Anyone who is good with these want to make me one I'll paypal you, Don't feel like spending the $200 for the AA one and not as good as some of you with wiring etc.

Let me know thanks!!

97 E36 M3 s52

$40 shipped? and a copy of my last DVD "Speed of Dark"

email me Boondocksaint@comcast.net

[mpire]

Well, after spending 4 hours putting this together, I now know why it costs $200. Its a serious PITA! :eek:

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs052.snc6/168212_483974195754_508220754_6380528_8338452_n.jpghttp://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs056.snc6/168600_483972330754_508220754_6380499_7067782_n.jpg

[JP422]

I built my air pump simulator and a DISA bypass into the same box... but I have yet to install it. Strange thing is neither my DISA nor Airpump are hooked up (removed actually)... but no CEL. The DISA throws a code, but only the PEAKE tool can find it... and the missing airpump has no code.

I do have a reflash from TT (NickG). Perhaps that is helping?

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

Nick G's code stops the CEL but the code is still there and can be found so your right on the DISA no CEL but still has code.

Don't worry the Air Pump will come back to haunt you give it a few runs where the DME calls for it and the O2 does not detect a lean condition and it will throw a CEL (Air Pump InOp)

Best, John S

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

Well, after spending 4 hours putting this together, I now know why it costs $200. Its a serious PITA! :eek:

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs052.snc6/168212_483974195754_508220754_6380528_8338452_n.jpg


Dude that is sweet looking. Very compact so I feel your pain. A lot of people are like "what" when I told them $75 for one. I don't make them anymore but might do a run of like 5 if I could get 5 buyers. They are a PITA to make

Good job man, you saved $188, much respect from me to you

John Smith

[JP422]

lol... ok, well, mine is all ready to install anyway... I'l get around to it someday. Thanks for your tips!~

-Joe

[mpire]

I would like some insight on how and where to wire in LEDs for various stages.

I know someone posted something along those lines.

I have an 12v LED that lights whenever its powered up.

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

I would like some insight on how and where to wire in LEDs for various stages.

I know someone posted something along those lines.

I have an 12v LED that lights whenever its powered up.

It should only light when the unit is on or in simulation. Here is how it works...DME calls for Air Pump. Simulator goes active and removes O2 signal and inputs 200mv signal to DME telling it the exhaust is lean or it is being injected with air. The DME is happy thinking the air pump is working. DME calls for Air Pump to turn off and simulator turns off. There is no power to simulator so it is a pass through devise and you O2 signal is just passing right through it and your DME is gtting it's O2 reading like you never cut that O2 signal wire when you installed the simulator.

I hope this explains why the LED is only on a short time when you first start the car in the morning and maybe better understand how the simluator works.

I don't think there is a post for different stage LED's since there is only one stage for the Air Pump

John S

[mpire]

Probably so. I assume you just wired in the LED directly to the power leads from the air pump? At least thats what I did.

I am testing it on the wife's car first just to be careful.

[mpire]

So I am having trouble getting this to be exactly 200mv. I get a fluctuation of around 10mv.

Also there is no fuse on this thing, so I think I will need to make some modifications.

[vishus]

So I am having trouble getting this to be exactly 200mv. I get a fluctuation of around 10mv.

Also there is no fuse on this thing, so I think I will need to make some modifications.

Hi mpire,
Wondering, once you've solved this issue, would you consider building and selling? I would be interested in purchasing one. I'm not so good or very patient when it comes to this type of stuff :) I was about to go pick up the stuff and try building one but from the photo's... your box looks pretty sweet! I'm totally willing to pay a fair price plus shipping expenses.
cheers

[mpire]

I am going to replace the pot with resistors and put a fast blow fuse in, then I will give it another try.

I am still concerned with it varying in voltage from 195-215 mv.

I am way over thinking this though.

[vishus]

I am going to replace the pot with resistors and put a fast blow fuse in, then I will give it another try.

I am still concerned with it varying in voltage from 195-215 mv.

I am way over thinking this though.

I'm no wiz at this stuff but ya, maybe you're overthinking it lol...... maybe try a different pot. Maybe you have faulty pot's or voltage regulator? I'm sure there are better quality pot's and v regulator's than what Radio Shack is selling. For the price of a pot or voltage regulator maybe start there?

[mpire]

A pot is just a variable resistor.

I am complaining about a 20 mv swing here, thats almost nothing. I just like to do things thoroughly.

[JP422]

Nick G's code stops the CEL but the code is still there and can be found so your right on the DISA no CEL but still has code.

Don't worry the Air Pump will come back to haunt you give it a few runs where the DME calls for it and the O2 does not detect a lean condition and it will throw a CEL (Air Pump InOp)

Best, John S


Well... the CEL has finally surfaced! I've been running w/ NIckG's stage2 flash and my A/F had been 14.7 @ idle... and 12.5 @ WOT... ran sweet... and even ran a track day with no problem. Then I found out I had a leak at my injecotr bases (injector adapter leaking). This caused my idle to wander a little bit sometimes, but it wasnt bad. Meanwhile NO CEL.

THEN, I got the bright idea to fix it all, so I solved the vac leaks, and now, the engine is about 0.5 richer! At cold startup, the A/f is now 14.0 (+/- 0.3) and the secondary air pump is finally called into action... only I removed mine (just be procrastinating after DASC install). I believe the CEL will be on as long as the pump is missing. I probably should pull the battery to reset the ECU's "learned" memory too.

I did make Johnboy's simulator, but I'm gonna keep it as a backup. I can definitely smell the richer exhaust fumes, and feel I can appreciate a leaner exhaust (that the air pump should provide)... even if just for cold starts.

Anyway, if the CEL really is resolved just by re-installing the pump, then my simulator may go up for sale.

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

I am going to replace the pot with resistors and put a fast blow fuse in, then I will give it another try.

I am still concerned with it varying in voltage from 195-215 mv.

I am way over thinking this though.



Just some quick thoughts:

1. O2 sensors give a varied voltage so the voltage swing simulates actual condition better then resistors with a pegged voltage.

2. I like to have a adjustable pot since charging systems vary, DME's vary and there are too many conditions to account for, sometimes voltage needs to be cranked up or down from 200mv to make this work correctly. I have helped over 100 people build these on multiple car brands so I state this as a fact. On your car run the simulator and ensure it has eliminated any CEL then get your OHMs to be 100% on the correct resistor. Just a friendly hint encase your one of the very few that needs a pot tweak...

3. Where are you installing the fast blow fuse? I'm interested if your going on main voltage, regulated voltage or padded voltage. Obviously, do not fuse the pass through or you risk a big reliability issue.

Best, John S

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

Well... the CEL has finally surfaced! I've been running w/ NIckG's stage2 flash and my A/F had been 14.7 @ idle... and 12.5 @ WOT... ran sweet... and even ran a track day with no problem. Then I found out I had a leak at my injecotr bases (injector adapter leaking). This caused my idle to wander a little bit sometimes, but it wasnt bad. Meanwhile NO CEL.

THEN, I got the bright idea to fix it all, so I solved the vac leaks, and now, the engine is about 0.5 richer! At cold startup, the A/f is now 14.0 (+/- 0.3) and the secondary air pump is finally called into action... only I removed mine (just be procrastinating after DASC install). I believe the CEL will be on as long as the pump is missing. I probably should pull the battery to reset the ECU's "learned" memory too.

I did make Johnboy's simulator, but I'm gonna keep it as a backup. I can definitely smell the richer exhaust fumes, and feel I can appreciate a leaner exhaust (that the air pump should provide)... even if just for cold starts.

Anyway, if the CEL really is resolved just by re-installing the pump, then my simulator may go up for sale.

Yea man I'm sorry that came back but I knew it was coming back to haunt you. It is best to run your air pump if you can. These simulators are for track cars or systems that don't have a header for air pump injection, like my turbo manifold. I just don't have the air pump connection and I needed the room under the hood for my Meth pump setup. Best of luck, John Smith

[bluesteel]

I created a PCB and posted it under the 6 cyl portion of this site. The PCB should work for the 4 cyl, just leave a few parts off.

Here is a link to the post. Enjoy

http://318ti.org/forum/showpost.php?p=292625&postcount=3

[pdxmotorhead]

The ripple your seeing could be the regulator fluttering a bit, it may need a capacitor on the output to tie it down a bit? Or try ordering a new regulator, luckily they are cheap! :)

Dave

Just some quick thoughts:

1. O2 sensors give a varied voltage so the voltage swing simulates actual condition better then resistors with a pegged voltage.

2. I like to have a adjustable pot since charging systems vary, DME's vary and there are too many conditions to account for, sometimes voltage needs to be cranked up or down from 200mv to make this work correctly. I have helped over 100 people build these on multiple car brands so I state this as a fact. On your car run the simulator and ensure it has eliminated any CEL then get your OHMs to be 100% on the correct resistor. Just a friendly hint encase your one of the very few that needs a pot tweak...

3. Where are you installing the fast blow fuse? I'm interested if your going on main voltage, regulated voltage or padded voltage. Obviously, do not fuse the pass through or you risk a big reliability issue.

Best, John S

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

The ripple your seeing could be the regulator fluttering a bit, it may need a capacitor on the output to tie it down a bit? Or try ordering a new regulator, luckily they are cheap! :)

Dave

Dave I don't have a problem with my original design, it has worked for years with no issues. I'm just questioning other people that want to improve on my basic design. I believe they should start their own thread stating new and improved SAP simulator. The PCB board is super clean and I like it but be prepared to give support with your product. I give free support weekly via email and phone.

Best to all and let's improve if it's needed and will be cost effective, John S

[covert24]

Can John or someone knowledgable in the area check my wiring?

I apologize for the messiness... Haven't picked up a soldering iron in about 5 years...

http://t.co/DAxb4lh

http://t.co/Z8UDGWQ

[John Firestone]

I can't see anything obviously wrong with the soldering, but I haven't any experience with putting a circuit made with point-to-point wiring in a car. I've always made up a printed circuit board, or had one made up, as then I know the mechanical stresses are under control.

If you can manage the fairly modest extra effort to design one, it could be really hard to resist getting a PCB made for your next project -- they have gotten so inexpensive these days. I just ordered a board (or rather three copies of the board) for a more complicated circuit for my DRLs, that cost all of $20, including airmail postage from America to Germany. It would have been $15 with postage if I lived in the U.S.

I can't get much design data on the relays you are using, perhaps because Tyco/OEG is discontinuing them. I didn't see any decoupling capacitors for the voltage regulator. A 7805 is more tolerant and stable than most, but it could still oscillate without them at extreme temperatures.

There are lots of refinements I might try for a secondary air pump simulator, to make it smaller and more tolerant of abuse. My car, however, was built in June 1996, so I don't have a DME that needs one or that I can test it on.

Reading that back, I'm not sure I was much help!

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

Looks ok but I can't see all the connections. You can test it. Just hook to a battery and you should see around 200mv on the O2 to DME lead to ground. When the simulator is disconnected from batter the O2 leads should be a short or pass-through so the O2 signal is going to the DME so the DME and O2 lead should be a short.

Good luck, John S

[John Firestone]

Thanks for suggesting to just test the circuit. I meant to, but by the time I finished thinking and writing about everything else, I had forgotten the idea. I guess that's a curse of being a details guy. :(

[covert24]

Alright. Now. To test it, you just put the O2 and DME wire together on one lead Of the Multimeter and then the other lead of the M/M on the GND/Negative from the SAP wire and look for .200 volts? Then disconnect SAP +\- and then what should I put the M/M on to see if it's straight through? I'm sorry my brain has been taxed beyond it's limits between trying to figure out this SAP sim and INPA/Ediabas. Mostly INPA.....


Edit: I also forgot to mention how much I appreiate all the help so far from both of you. Also what kind of decoupling capacitor would you recommend me to get and which to components would you put in inline with? Im seriously considering ordering a Pre-printed board if my hack job doesn't work :/

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

Alright. Now. To test it, you just put the O2 and DME wire together on one lead Of the Multimeter and then the other lead of the M/M on the GND/Negative from the SAP wire and look for .200 volts? Then disconnect SAP +\- and then what should I put the M/M on to see if it's straight through? I'm sorry my brain has been taxed beyond it's limits between trying to figure out this SAP sim and INPA/Ediabas. Mostly INPA.....


Edit: I also forgot to mention how much I appreiate all the help so far from both of you. Also what kind of decoupling capacitor would you recommend me to get and which to components would you put in inline with? Im seriously considering ordering a Pre-printed board if my hack job doesn't work :/


No to test energize the sim and test the DME wire only to ground. You should have 200mv or around there. When the simulator has no power or is off the O2 and DME wire should be ohm'ed and be a dead short.

The reason is to install you cut the O2 signal wire and patch the simulator in. When the Sim is off the O2 signal is sent to the DMEsince the simulator is in pass-though and the O2 signal is sent like the wire was never cut.. When the DME calls for Air Pump the sim goes active and cut the O2 reading and sends a 200mv signal to trick the DME into thinking the air pump is in and working correctly. Hope this clears it up a little

[John Firestone]

... what kind of decoupling capacitor would you recommend me to get and which to components would you put in inline with?

The datasheet (http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/LM/LM7805.pdf) (728K PDF) states that an 0.33µF (or more) capacitor is required between input and ground if the regulator is an appreciable distance from the power supply filter (most likely). It also recommends an 0.1µF capacitor between the output and ground for better stability.

Im seriously considering ordering a Pre-printed board if my hack job doesn't work :/I've been quite happy with these guys (http://dorkbotpdx.org/wiki/pcb_order) for small, one off boards. They are a bunch of hobby robotics enthusiasts who arrange group PCB orders for their projects.

[covert24]

No to test energize the sim and test the DME wire only to ground. You should have 200mv or around there. When the simulator has no power or is off the O2 and DME wire should be ohm'ed and be a dead short.

The reason is to install you cut the O2 signal wire and patch the simulator in. When the Sim is off the O2 signal is sent to the DMEsince the simulator is in pass-though and the O2 signal is sent like the wire was never cut.. When the DME calls for Air Pump the sim goes active and cut the O2 reading and sends a 200mv signal to trick the DME into thinking the air pump is in and working correctly. Hope this clears it up a little

Wow I'm an idiot lol. I've read and re-read this entire thread and it didn't click until you posted that. Thank you! I will test it when I get out of work and report back with my results.


The datasheet (http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/LM/LM7805.pdf) (728K PDF) states that an 0.33µF (or more) capacitor is required between input and ground if the regulator is an appreciable distance from the power supply filter (most likely). It also recommends an 0.1µF capacitor between the output and ground for better stability.

I've been quite happy with these guys (http://dorkbotpdx.org/wiki/pcb_order) for small, one off boards. They are a bunch of hobby robotics enthusiasts who arrange group PCB orders for their projects.


Alright well looking at radioshak they only have a 1.0uf for the input to ground and they have a .1uf for the output to ground. Would these be sufficient given there voltage is a little high or is that just the maximum voltage they can handle?

Links:

Input-Ground: http://m.radioshack.com/radioshack/product/detail.do?itemId=2062392&categoryId=&path=

Output-Ground: http://m.radioshack.com/radioshack/product/detail.do?itemId=2062365&categoryId=&path=


Would these be sufficient?

[John Firestone]

The 50V is the maximum rated working voltage. The ceramic capacitor may behave a little differently depending on voltage, but that won't affect its use here.

I would not put a tantalum capacitor on the voltage regulator input. They are notorious sensitive to low impedance voltage changes, and usually fail by shorting out. :(

How much trouble would it be to wire three 0.1µF ceramic capacitors in parallel?

[covert24]

Alright update: I feel like I wanna jab this soldering iron into my temple...


It's not working and I'm not sure why. Everything is soldered on correctly and the relays click when they are energized but no dice on the voltage deal.

I mean I get voltage from the DME wire but when I turn the pots nothing happens with the readings. And this is my second set if pots by the way. Any specific tests I could do to make sure each component (other then the relays) is working correctly? Going to try and wake up a little early this morning and see if I can make any headway before work. Maybe I can go to work happy lol. Realized today I had the +/- leads on my meter switched btw.... Yea it's been a little bit of a struggle.. Haha

[covert24]

Oh was browsing the other threads on this topic and was wondering if there is a shematic out using a DPDT relay instead of two singles. Just curious as that would probably be easier to wire up.. I think..

[covert24]

Ok I just tested the regulator and it's output and ground are reading 0 ohms and the input is reading what it should be (12 or so volts). Does this mean my regulator is bad? I was able to get around 480mV on the DME wire but turning the pots only brought it down to around 430mV. What gives?!

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

Ok I just tested the regulator and it's output and ground are reading 0 ohms and the input is reading what it should be (12 or so volts). Does this mean my regulator is bad? I was able to get around 480mV on the DME wire but turning the pots only brought it down to around 430mV. What gives?!

Is your regulator padding the voltage to 5 volts? Also did you use the correct pots? Pots center is voltage then outside two are padded voltage to get you down to 200mv

[covert24]

The regulator isn't outputting anything and the pots are indeed correct I got angry and threw it on the ground and broke the board in half.... So needless to say I ordered the the pre made board of of batchpcb and will be getting all new components... How long should I make the wires btw? Any certain length I should shoot for?

[familytruckster]

mouser.com or digikey.com are good sources for component parts. And boards, project boxes...etc...

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

The regulator isn't outputting anything and the pots are indeed correct I got angry and threw it on the ground and broke the board in half.... So needless to say I ordered the the pre made board of of batchpcb and will be getting all new components... How long should I make the wires btw? Any certain length I should shoot for?

I install my simulator in the cabin since they are not weather resistant.

Wires need to be long enogh to reach both O2 sensor signal wires and power wires need to be long enough to reach the air pump plug so it is powered by the DME calling for air pump at the plug. I do about 7 feet of wire on each connection and cut off what I don't need.

You can also tap directly into the DME wiring harness for a shorter wire solution however it is not fun tearing apart the wiring harness and you need the DME diagram pinout for your cars year & model to ensure you are tapping the correct wires.

John Smith

[covert24]

I install my simulator in the cabin since they are not weather resistant.

Wires need to be long enogh to reach both O2 sensor signal wires and power wires need to be long enough to reach the air pump plug so it is powered by the DME calling for air pump at the plug. I do about 7 feet of wire on each connection and cut off what I don't need.

You can also tap directly into the DME wiring harness for a shorter wire solution however it is not fun tearing apart the wiring harness and you need the DME diagram pinout for your cars year & model to ensure you are tapping the correct wires.

John Smith


Well I ordered the batchpcb board nOt realizing it takes about a month to get it....... Huge let down...

Anyway, what gauge wire would you recommend for this thing. I want it to be functional but not have too thin/thick wires running all in the engine bay. I was thinking of maybe putting the box under one of the cabin filter housings since I wouldn't know where to begin or where to put it if I were to route it to the inside of the car.

[John Firestone]

Anyway, what gauge wire would you recommend for this thing. I want it to be functional but not have too thin/thick wires running all in the engine bay....The ETM shows those circuits wired with 0.5 mm^2 which translates to 20 AWG.

I would probably use 18 AWG if you can't find 20, especially for the 12V wire. It is on an unfused circuit, save an upstream power relay. At least then you would not be sinning quite as badly as BMW. You could use 22 for the other wires if you are careful how you strip and lay them. (I have seen 18 being the smallest gauge recommended for the shade tree mechanic, but then some may strip wire with a knife blade or their teeth.)

[covert24]

The ETM shows those circuits wired with 0.5 mm^2 which translates to 20 AWG.

I would probably use 18 AWG if you can't find 20, especially for the 12V wire. It is on an unfused circuit, save an upstream power relay. At least then you would not be sinning quite as badly as BMW. You could use 22 for the other wires if you are careful how you strip and lay them. (I have seen 18 being the smallest gauge recommended for the shade tree mechanic, but then some may strip wire with a knife blade or their teeth.)


Alrighty awesome thank you! So 18awg wires for the "power" and I'll use 20 for the DME/O2 wires just to be on the safe side. I just went to the dentist yesterday so stripping wires my teeth is a no no. I have a wire cutter/stripper that I use for all of my electronic projects so I have no reason not to use it.

You guys have been a tremendous help thus far and I can't thank you enough. Im sorry I couldn't get the DIY version working. Mixture of bad components and frustration is what did me in. Once I receive the batchpcb board I will give you guys an update and what's going on.

Thanks again!

[John Firestone]

Wow. All these grateful waves -- you deserve to succeed. :smile:

Here is a snapshot of some parts that are going into my car: to improve the DRLs and to add puddle lights and BMW-style pathway lighting:

http://www.unofficialbmw.com/john/misc/puddle_drl_parts.jpg

The purple circuit boards arrived this afternoon from dorkbotpdx, exactly three weeks after I sent in the design. It's my second try so that I can use the smaller, less expensive and more readily available solid state relay at their right. (The car only needs one board.)

[covert24]

I really wish I had the patience and knowledge to do stuff like this. I used to Be all into circuitry and electrical engineering when I was younger but I just get to frustrated too fast now (ie. My attempt at the sim haha). If you don't mind me asking what exactly will those be doing specifically? I see a spot for a microcontroller on those which leads me to believe your going to have to do some coding (not my favorite thing in the world).

[John Firestone]

... What exactly will those be doing specifically? I see a spot for a microcontroller on those which leads me to believe your going to have to do some coding (not my favorite thing in the world).The PCB board provides some interface electronics to support pathway lighting and DRLs. The upper third of the board senses the turn stalk high beam flash contacts and detects when you pull the stalk with the ignition and parking lights off. The lower third replicates most of the logic inside the Canadian DRL module so that I can substitute the finned solid state relay. The 16 pin IC at the lower right, a 3-44V (yow!) CMOS multiplexer, provides the hardwired logic.

A small microcontroller near the board provides the timing and the fancy tricks you'd expect. I've set up a pleasant system to cross-develop its firmware, but that still leaves nailing down all the conceptual details and the hard labor of the installation work. I don't mind the detail work since I am the rate limiting step and not my tools. Some necessary bits of the install, however, I wouldn't mind skipping.

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

Is there anyone making these for people? I have a customer that wants one. Thanks, John S

[John Firestone]

Which bits, exactly, is the customer interested in?

[volgapower]

sorry whats the purpose of this device?

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

Customer is looking for a single bank simulator for a I-4 complete unit ready to install

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

sorry whats the purpose of this device?

It simulates the air pump so you can remove it and not get a CEL

[Mkl]

Hi,
Did anyone do it on a M43 engine?
I have complete my SAP simulator but I have no idea where the O2 and DME cables must go. The jack that goes into the SAP only have 2 wires. Should I look for other cables (the ones that goes from the O2 sensor to DME)?
Thanks

[John Firestone]

I didn't realize the M43 even had a secondary air pump or a second, downstream lambda sensor. I thought those were U.S. OBD-II additions. What month and year is your car?

[Mkl]

It's an 318i E46 BMW with M43TUB19 engine, from 10.1998.
It has a SAP, and 2 O2 sensors. I removed the SAP yesterday.

[John Firestone]

Ah, that explains it, you have a car built to satisfy the later EOBD, which in Germany reduced your taxes. Unfortunately, the wiring diagrams for the contemporary E36 compacts show they don't have it.

Have you checked the BMW WDS? It's not as comprehensive but might show the wiring.

[Mkl]

I have found a BMW WDS that might help. Both O2 and DME from SAP simulator should connect to O2 wiring?

[John Firestone]

I believe so, but I have no experience. If I were doing it, I would consult a later, U.S. E36 BMW ETM, see how people are wiring the simulator into an American car and then translate the connections to yours with the help of the WDS.

[Mkl]

I guess all the O2 sensors are 4 wired. 2 for power supply, 1 for ground and 1 for DME. From my understanding the emulator O2 and DME come together with the O2 DME wire. Is that right?

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

I guess all the O2 sensors are 4 wired. 2 for power supply, 1 for ground and 1 for DME. From my understanding the emulator O2 and DME come together with the O2 DME wire. Is that right?

That is correct. The simulator is a pass-through devise unless active so it passes the exact O2 reading to the DME when in the off position. When it is active it removes the O2 signal to the DME and sends a lean condition signal which is what the DME looks for to check air pump operation.

The air pump injects air in the exhaust so to simulate the air pump you just create a lean condition reading from the O2 and the DME thinks it has the air pump working correctly adding additional fresh air to the exhaust to help heat up the cat converter quicker.

The simulator is only on for 30 seconds to 1 minute when you cold start the car then the DME switches it off and it's like the simulator was not even installed on the car.

Hope this helps, John S

[Mkl]

I had no time to reply until now .. the fact is .. the device is working 100%
Congratulation for the ingenuity.

[runnr548]

I am thinking we need to build one for our 6cyl swap!

[lilmikey13]

okay, first of all im sorry for posting this and maybe sounding dumb. But i've just built my sap simulator and tested it the way it says. I'm ready to install. I removed my sap, and was ready to hook it all up. but as far as connecting the o2 dme wires. I'm completely lost. Where are these wires at? I have a 97 m44 1.9 liter engine. Can someone provide a picture or good description to where the i have to tap in to the o2/dme wires. Like i said im completely lost. and sorry once again for sounding like such a noob.
Thank You in advance

[lilmikey13]

Hello.. anybody??

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

Ok hi I'm John and I thought this SAP simulator up and posted it. We need to talk on the phone. It is way too much to type. Super easy to explain on the phone. You just need a understanding of why it hooks into the upstream O2 and I can tell you where to hook it and color of the wires. After you understand how it fools the DME into thinking the SAP is there and working it's super simple to install. Not going to type it so call me. I don't mind helping anyone on this forum

Call if you want to get this done 100%...John Smith 727 557-5897 EST

[performanceisland]

parts 275-248 and 270-1802 are no longer available from radioshack, any suitable replacements?

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

parts 275-248 and 270-1802 are no longer available from radioshack, any suitable replacements?

270-1802 shows as still available. It is a project enclouser or a black box that the breadboard (soldering board) can fit in. You could use cardboard if mounted inside. Its only purpose is to ensure the board doesn't ground out on anything or get wet if mounted in the engine bay. I always mount my sims in the cabin where it is always dry.

275-248 is discontinued. You can try 275-0031. Best thing to do is go look in the relay box at your local ratshack. This item is a STDP relay or (single throw, double pole). That means it has a single positive/neg to energize the relay or ST and when the relay is active it has 2 poles or DP that are connected.

If it is too confusing I will go to RS and get part numbers, let me know

Hope this helps, John S

[lem0n]

John, sorry to resurrect this old thread, but would you consider making one for sale? I’ll gladly pay for your time and effort to get a functioning simulator instead of mucking it up myself.

[runnr548]

I like the sound of that!

[spidertri]

If you search the internet you'll find that since this thread has been started there's a guy who makes and sells them on his website.