Window coming off track

[zGoldenboy]

I have a 95 sport, and the driver-side window just came off track. Has anyone else expierenced this, if so, how much or how easy to fix.......

Thanks

[bbnmcas]

I just had mine fixed. In fact I'm getting the passenger side fixed today. Get it fixed right the first time. It cost me around $300 to put in a new regulator. Those things pop off some times. Good luck!

[Dan Burger]

same thing just happened to me...gotta get it fixed next week. I'm just glad the window didn't break!

------------------
Dan B.
'95 Club Sport

[StevenTN318]

Nice to see I'm not the only one. Mine jumped off last week and i haven't gotten it fixed yet.

------------------
Why look like all my friends at high school and drive a civic, when I can beat them in my TI?

[1996 328ti]

Check out
http://www.understeer.com/window.shtml .

[This message has been edited by Steven Schlossman (edited 01-31-2003).]

[caffeinekid]

If the window is not going up and down correctly, it's very likely that the regulator has warped or bent and will need to be replaced. It's most likely that the track guide has broken loose and will be lying on the bottom of the door. If this is the case, both will need to be replaced as well as the retainer clips and regulator rivets. The parts should be relatively inexpensive and the labor should take between 1 & 2hrs. You will need to have a riveting tool handy as well since the regulator is riveted into the door frame (as opposed to being secured by bolts).

I ordered that parts and had my technician install everything.

My total cost was a little under $250.00 with my BMW CCA discount on parts.

Here are the part numbers:

51331977609 regulator
51321938884 retainer clip (you'll need 2)
51328146243 guide (if broken)
51321960413 guide felt (if broken)
Unknown - Rivets (you'll need 4)

[ElementalFiend]

This happened to BOTH my windows on the same day, sucks majorly I can't roll them down anymore as I can't afford $600 to fix the damned things.

I called up some shop, Glass Plus or something, a few weeks ago to get them to come fix it, and they told me on the phone it would be $275, so I said okay. The guy comes, spends 60+ minutes "working" then comes back and says he doesn't have the parts to fix it so he simply propped the window up with a bored to keep it from falling down. Then the bastard charged $75 for the labor.

[ayton]

he simply propped the window up with a board to keep it from falling down. Then the bastard charged $75 for the labor.
:rolleyes: I'm sorry but that is some funny sh*t right there nothing personal. The service industry really sucks now a days...this is precisely why I don't have mechanic anymore all of the good trustworthy guys are gone nothing but cheating butchers now!

[Dinoti]

;}
How handy are you? Mine went down this winter, with all the New England slat and crap on it, causing it to stick a bit when lowered. I pulled the door panel off to see what happened. The regulator was slightly bent, and the window track was a tad looser than I thought it should be. Every time the window went up then down, it popped out of the track in the front. To fix it, I simply bent the regualtor a bit, back to it's original shape with my hands -- not perfect, but close -- and moved the rear track forward a bit by inserting a rubber plumbing washer as a spacer. Next, I cleaned the tracks as best I could with rag to make sure the window wouldn't grab as it had been. Works fine, now. Don't pay someone to do this until you have tried it. It's a pain, but it's FREE!

Keep the side windows and the weather stripping clean!

Dino

[jeph23]

You know, this is funny, you think this would be a factory recall or something considering it has happened to all of us. Funny thing is, this is my forth time fixing mine. Go figure. I did try to bend mine back in place, and that helped, but only for a short while. I have to just keep getting the new slide clips. I am thinking that BMW messed up when making the door regulators or something. We shouldn't have to replace this stuff every 3 months... It is driving me nuts... I heated my regulator arm with a torch, bent it with plyers and then put on the new slide piece. It was fine after I cleaned it all out and re-greased it, but like I said, 6 months later, here we go again... If anyone knows a sure fire way to fix this thing and keep it fixed, let me know. I have just left it broke for about 4 months now because I am just tired of taking the stupid door apart and wasting my money... :x

[AJ Quick]

This seems to happen to all cars, not just BMWs. I know our old Dodge van's window track would break every few years. It only cost about $35 dollars to get it replaced if you did it yourself. I don't understand why it would cost so much though, it is possible to get the parts and install them yourself to save some money?

[jeph23]

Well, I know for a fact, that it IS cheaper to fix it yourself then it is to take it in and get fixed. But, I will tell you why it is so expensive. Beings that I have fixed mine three times now. First thing is first, I am not putting down your van or anything, but yes, it is a Dodge Van. Now, these are BMW's. Not that that makes a world of a difference, but just for the simple fact that evidentally they must mix a little gold in with every part they put out or something...lol But anyways, the cheapest, absolute cheapest, that I have found window regulators is for $81. And then the slide runs ya like $3 to $5. Okay, then in order to get the rivet tool to do it right, you either have to buy one, or rent one. I rented mine all three times. There was $20 a pop. So, totally, it has cost me about $315. I am getting really sick and tired of it, but from what I have heard, with these cars, it is just something that we are all going to have to get used to. It is a factory defect, and there is nothing that BMW is going to do about it... Go figure... But, its worth it, I love this car too much to get rid of it because of a window.... :lol:

[AJ Quick]

I don't have a Dodge Van, that was an example from years ago. I work around cars, and I see a lot of vehicles that have broken windows like that. I don't think it is too BMW specific.. but mainly only in power windows.

[bmwracefan]

I have left and right window regulators that I removed from my 1999 ti race car. In perfect condition. $100.00 each with motors.

[schussey]

It just happened to me this morning- which really sucks because tomarrow I have to drive 6 hours. Oh well....

[robcarync]

it hasnt happend to me yet....but it had happened to the previous owner. luckily for me he fixed it already and i didnt have to do anything for it...ive had the car like 7 montsh and nothing has gone wrong yet

[JedzE36/5]

i just posted about this on another thread concerning this issue. uhhhhh if you want to see what i wrote, look it up there. im a lazy turd.

[Panzer_M]

I have a different prob,

My window went down will bounce out of the front track when I shut the door.

up and down is fine until it bounces then it goes all to hell.

After 4 different fixes on my own,
I am finally going to the dealer mon to have them look at. THe Tech understood what I was talking about even though the SA didn't.

[writeb]

*Sigh* I'm finally breaking down and going to a BMW service dealer to fix it. Attempted the self fix to the degree of success for about 2 weeks, then the damn thing popped out again.

I theorize now that once the window falls off track and bends the regulator arm, even after you perform your "fix", when you slam the door too much, the regulator arm is still bent. The regulator arm is now pulling/pushing the bushing in the track off axis under tension, making it easy for it to pop back out.

The chilton's guide I bought says that you can drill the rivet out, replace the regulator and bolt it in, using an M6x10 bolt, washer and matching nut.

No reason why you can't take out the regulator, put it in a vice and straighten it properly, then bolt it back in! (?)

After toying around with the door for two weekends straight, I'm ready to pay to have it become someone else's problem. (so I can go back to THEM if it goes wrong again). (and also quit embarrassing myself at the drive through.......) :rolleyes:


P.S. The mechanic smell is White Lithium Grease.

[1996 328ti]

This is really becoming a very common problem. :(
I have been lucky. I replaced the bushings last summer. The window arm does push out the inside panel a little.

[Panzer_M]

I replaced my bushing....2 days ago.

about 10 times in the last 4 months on the same door.....it's a PITA.

[writeb]

Aaaah. *sigh of relief*.
Got the thing fixed. :evil_lau: Feels so good to hit the auto lower switch without crossing your fingers. (although I'm casting a weary eye at the passenger side window now. I'll let you know that I paid just over $250 total to get the window fixed. That was the best deal I could come up with here in expensive Silicon Valley. While I have no comment on Labor, don't let any repair shop charge you too much more than 90 bucks for the new regulator, since that's what it costs currently (shipped).

I was quoted in upwards of $400 dollars twice by various shops in the area, ($200 dollar regulator in that!). So user beware!

I didn't ask him his method, but I am curious as to whether or not he put a new rivet into the new regulator, or if he used a bolt on method.. Good luck all. you :censored: jinxes!!!

[schussey]

ok so my driver side window has broken twice in the past, and happened again tonight! wtf??? it was a warm night, and it fell off track. i had just installed a new regulator, and slider pieces. this is so annoying....

[Phil Marx]

I posted a very long message on this topic within the week at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bmw318ti
I'm a wordy MF so it ain't short but I'll try to drop it here and see if it fits. My findings are as a first-timer who thought the window system sucked. There are lots of FAQs and tips on this and other sites that helped me. These are my additions to those:

First: When removing the door panel DON"T pry out the mirror switch with a screwdriver stuck between it and the door handle. Pull off the "joystick" button and pull from the slots inside the mirror switch housing without touching and damaging the fragile handle. Mine already had some damage so I was adamant there had to be a better way. This is only a problem on the ti with its unique gummi door handles.

Second: You'll need four M6x10mm bolts, nuts, and wave washers to replace the rivets that hold the original regulator in place. Install the top bolt from inside the door-shell cavity (nut on the outside) as clearances are quite tight to the regulator arm at that position. I found drilling out the rivets a royal pain. I even dragged out my compressor and my Snap-On air drill. But every rivet started spinning before I could get either the center drilled out completely or the head drilled flat. I ended up using a chisel and hammer to remove what was left. (Thought about the die-grinder but didn't want to litter the door with even smaller metal shavings.)

Third: There is supposed to be a fuzzy rubber window-channel liner at both the front and the back. Mine was missing the one at the rear. It's a $9 part that one dealer had in stock, which is always telling. BMW calls it a "window guide rail", p/n 51 32 1 960 413.

Fourth: Check for damage to the window tracks inside the door and for easy movement of the plastic slides in the tracks mounted to the glass. Best I can tell from the condition of my door, the slides had let loose at the ball socket and the regulator bound-up under the slide track, compressing and distorting the aluminum track making movement of the plastic slides very tight. Apparently the window went off track and bent the rear guide rail mounted inside the door, too, compressing that channel and distorting it so badly the window could do nothing but bind coming down, popping the clips again. This can also happen if the window is installed and operated when not properly seated in the front track. So check carefully to be sure the window is properly seated in the guide tracks and inside the rubber linings. With the regulator disconnected the glass should slide easily and smoothly through the tracks. If that's not the case, check the rear track for damage. Mine had apparently been this way for some time as the glass had worn a groove in the steel track with the rubber weatherstripping missing in action. All I can figure is that someone was in the door replacing the clips and threw out the rear track liner after not being able to reinstall it into the distorted track. The inside of the door cavity was littered with "hair-clips" from the plastic slides. The rear track is removed with one bolt accessed through the round rubber plug behind the door panel and the track slips underneath the upper window channel at the top of the door. I simply removed mine and peened it back into shape. Others have seen the welds broken and just replaced the track. Either way, make sure the glass slides smoothly before reconnecting the regulator. I probably could have gotten away with straightening my bent regulator arm rather than replacing the regulator once I figured out what caused the problem in the first place, but at $70 and since I had already drilled-out the rivets by that time. . . . .

Fifth: When snapping the ball connections of the regulator arms into the nylon slides, note that the rearward ball is longer than the front and will have more space between the slide and the arm even when installed properly. Conversely, the front ball is short and may look like it is all the way in the slide when compared to the rear one, but it is not. Use a large pliers to snap the front ball all the way into the slide and THEN insert the hair-clip keeper with a needle-nose plier. Many problems in these regulators seem to come from the front ball not being properly seated in the slide.

Sixth: Before you put the door panel back together, check the operation of the regulator while you can see it....slowly and a little bit at a time. The first time you hit full-closed position the motor may automatically drop down an inch or two and initialize itself to work properly the very next time. Don't do as I did and spend an hour trying to diagnose and fix the horrible noise caused by sloppy tolerances in the regulator when first coming off the full-closed position! It is apparently normal and will be rendered inaudible once the door lining is reinstalled. Have faith, you didn't do anything wrong!

I hope this helps.

-Phil

[writeb]

Excellent. Two Thumbs up. If anybody wants to create this into a FAQ, I have a couple of pictures that can go along with this write-up. PM me or Email me.

Writeb

[schussey]

it should be a FAQ

[Phil Marx]

I've uploaded a picture of the smashed window track from my car, in case anyone's interested. Go to my profile and into my album. It's the only pic there.
-Phil

[Jeff Spooner]

If the slide clips are broken there is a good chance the arms are bent. If you straighten it back it will just bend again. Best to replace regulator and clips. The door panels are not real sturdy. The less you mess with them the better off you are.

[e30sequel]

I have left and right window regulators that I removed from my 1999 ti race car. In perfect condition. $100.00 each with motors.
hey guy i would be int in taking both off ur hands if u still have em pm pls

[Jeff Spooner]

I have both regulators and glass that i will be takeing out in the next week let me know if his are gone. thanks Jeff 803-917-7863

[needle332rur]

i had the welds break on both my rear window sliders, instead of waiting and buying a new one i drilled the welds out and rivited them back together. then take a thin strong object and flaten the rivits the best you can(were the window has to travel by). the window should pass over the rivits.

[atlanta318ti]

Sounds like everyone has gone through the same trials and tribulation that I faced. After fixing and refixing my driver's window, I finally concluded as stated in an earlier thread that the front channel seems to be the primary culprit. It seems to me that the guide channel isn't engineered properly, so as the window is manuevered up and down, if there is any variance the window may pop out of that track which then causes the bend in the regulator arm closest to that front window track. I didn't go out and buy a new regulator (although I know that I should have). Instead, I was lucky enough that I bent the regulator arm back into place with a small screwdriver using the twist and bend method by inserting it into the nice hole in the regulator arm. I then simply torqued it manually as I positioned the clips into the right position. As stated in the other thread, you really have to make sure that before you do any of this that you've got that window positioned in all the channels properly and you have to watch it all the way through. If it's not perfect it will pop out again and if you just bought a new regulator, it'll be time to buy another or hope the bend/twist method will work. The other key is to squeeze your hands into the door and pop those clips into the track with a pair of pliers. If you try to do it by hand, they won't truly have a good connection and will slide right off after using the window for a while. Now I know the right way to do this is to buy a new regulator, but I'd heard that folks did this and the problem came right back so I thought I'd be patient and tackle it for an hour each weekend to see what the true problem was. Now I'm glad I didn't opt for a new regulator and have it done somewhere, because it's all about the correction/installation. You'll find that you have little room to work in, and that you have to keep everything coordinated as you do the fix. Even a skilled mechanic or body man may think it all in correctly, but may you end up with another bent regulator if anything isn't just right. This could be the window not being fully in the track, not having the "perfect" amount of lithium grease in the window track, clips not completely seated in the track, etc... Now as a precaution, I simply don't let my window go all the way down (I stop at about an inch above the rubber seals), because that tends to be where my window seems to slip out of the front guide. Maybe it's just mine, but I think the front guide should be longer instead of ending where it does. I think that's an engineering problem. On the plus side, I only spent $4 for the clips, and my window works. Good times.

[fri3daz3]

I've had the same problem with my 1st TI. And the glass actually broke when I was on the freeway. Good thing I bought this Maintenance Manual CD ROM from this guy off of Ebay, and that helped a lot. I took the panels off and learned that the White Plastic piece which is the roller for the Regulator broke off. So I went to the junk yard got me a new glass and regulator and proceeded with the repair. Took the panels off and installed the new components. There should be a bolt or a nut (cant exactly remember) that has torque stripe that you would use to set the alignment of the window. The manual would tell you this step by step. This is definitely an easy fix, specially if you have the original glass that came with the car. Paying $300 to get this fixed (and knowing that the same problem would occur again) is just not my style. If you guys are in or around the San Diego area I would be more than happy to help. Oh by the way, I'm new here.. nice meeting you people.

[TiPerformance]

What year of car does everyone have that has expierenced this? I have a 98 and haven't had a problem yet. I have the Air bags in the doors, so I wonder if that helps any.

[1996 328ti]

I think the general consensus is that the window is just too large for the mechanism. I hear more about the failure in the winter.

[ElementalFiend]

Alright, its been months and my windows are still broken. Both of them. I've attempted to fix the drivers side but it ended up being a lot more trouble than I anticipated. I can't get the window out of the slide... and I don't know how. Can anyone help me with this? This little problem alone is keeping me from removing the window and giving me the room I need to correct the bent arms and install the new rollers.

If I can't fix this easily, then I am going to give up, but at the same time I'm tired of never being able to roll down my windows. Does anyone know of any alternative besides spending $600? Perhaps installing racing plexiglass snap-on windows? Has anyone done this before?

[aceyx]

to remove the window, you have to also remove the weatherstripping at the base of the window to get clearance for the aluminum sliders at the bottom edge of the glass. where the door panel clips in to the top edge of the door there are 7 or so little metal clips that need to be bent to pull the rubber part out. i forget how to get the opposite (exterior) side out but it should be apparent when you get there.

after these pieces are out, slide the glass out of the tracks (or just roll the window up and have it done for you) then rock the glass so the back edge lifts first. cotterpins and regulator arms should be detached. you want to bring it out pointy-side up. if you mask a bit of newspaper over the aluminum bits you can worry less about scratching the paint on the way out, as well as spreading around grease.


do you have a haynes/bentley manual?

[ElementalFiend]

No I don't, but I should probably get one.

My problem isn't getting the glass out of the door as much as it is getting the glass out of the sliders, which would then allow me to pull the glass out of the door. It simply will not budge. I've tried as much as hammering on the slider to knock it off, but I'm afraid if I try any harder it will just break the glass.

[aceyx]

okay, i'm a little confused here.

the arms are attached to the aluminum part of the window frame via little plastic clips. these clips have cotter pins to keep the nubbins on the arms in the clips.

as long as these are out, you can pretty much yank them out. it does take quite a bit of pressure. you can lever something underneath the regulator arm to pop it out of the clip.


if you're talking about removing the two aluminum pieces on the bottom of the window, i wouldn't reccomend it. afaik, they don't come off.

[///M318ti]

on my car it broke off the rivtes that hold it in place so i drilled out all the rivets and installed socket head cap m screws and my window doesnt pop out any more at all it is really stiff now with the metric bolts with the rivets it flex's a whole lot............. now i just need to do the other side seems like it want to come off track but not yet....... ill do it before summer

[Panzer_M]

my problem is when my window is down, and i shut the door, it bounces out of the front track.

Going up and down isn't a problem but if I shut my door with it down, it's 100% sure to "bounce" out of the front track, hang-up and then fall completely off the regulator arms.

[Panzer_M]

BTW, Pass side doesn't have this problem...???? I don't know why?

[1996 328ti]

BTW, Pass side doesn't have this problem...???? I don't know why?
You probably don'tuse the passenger side window as much.
The rubber for the window channel came loose on my drivers side but my passenger side window bushings broken first.

[///M318ti]

my problem is when my window is down, and i shut the door, it bounces out of the front track.

Going up and down isn't a problem but if I shut my door with it down, it's 100% sure to "bounce" out of the front track, hang-up and then fall completely off the regulator arms.

that was the exact same problem i had and all i did was put those screws in and i align it right when its down take off your door card and adjust the screw closeset to the door jamb it has a slot to give it more or less it probably got moved and when the window is down it is crooked i had the exact same problem

[Panzer_M]

could you give me a write up on it, with a few more details to it.
I will try this in the garage.

So far I've replace
50 clips
1 window
1 motor(blew out)
and 1 regulator arm when I first got the car
and now the current arm is slightly bent, but I can fix it with some pulling and a C-clamp.

I am at the point of buying a new door assembly from BMW and going to a bodyshop to hopefully fix this problem premently.

[Panzer_M]

I might have fixed one of the problems(major) with ///M's advice.

Awesome job mate.

Never realized that arm on the slider of the reg arm was adjustible.

[Panzer_M]

ok, 2nd problem, the doorjam side rubber seal when the window is up swells up way more than the passenger side when it's window is up? Tired Seal or another problem?

I went ahead an purchased another complete window seal from BMW awhile back and just haven't had time for the install.

[motorsport]

BMW sucks at making functional windows

[L84THSKY]

I was on my way to night school, stopped at the gas station. To save time, I lowered the passenger window to hand the attendant my debit card. The car was shut off when I pressed the button. I'm not sure if having the window go down on battery, verses having the car running makes any difference, but the window was very hesitant to open. It came down slowly, then kept going. When I went to raise it, it started shifting front to back. I lowered it again and tried to raise it. That's when it just went "klunk" and fell into the door. It was 7:45, below freezing and I had a class at 8:35 that took 30 minutes to get to.

I drove it home with the window fully down, got home and proceeeded to put on the maintenance overalls. Not being sure how the door panel comes off, I flipped through the repair manual. Looking over the inside panel, there didn't seem to be any screws. The manual said that the bottom is held on by plastic locking pins. I ended up just unscrewing one torx screw from the handle, and prying the cover off.

After removing the foam insulation, I was able to mess with the glass and put it back on track. I closed the window, got back into school cloths, and took off for school. Whole job was done in 30 minutes, outside in the freezing cold.

Amazing what you can do when you are pressed for time. This car only has 39K miles, who would have though this would happen. My driver's side window seems to work well.

So here is the question. Is there a recall on this issue? I have a bumper to bumper warranty on the car through the local BMW dealer. Are they going to replace the entire window regulator? I assume they have seen this before. This can wait till spring, just need to make sure no one uses the window.

I'm wondering if I can have them both replaced, or does it happen by chance, with no pre-disposition?

[1996 328ti]

It is not a recall. I make a habit of tapping the down button a second and gently easing down the window. A few summers ago I replaced them but I can hear them starting to go again. I'll replace them again this summer.

[Panzer_M]

It is not a recall. I make a habit of tapping the down button a second and gently easing down the window. A few summers ago I replaced them but I can hear them starting to go again. I'll replace them again this summer.

the bushings? or the Regulator Arms?

[gadgetphreak]

Earlier someone asked if they knew of anyone having the window who also had side airbags, but I saw no response... Asking again, has anyone had their window fail who also had side airbags?

What preventative maintenance can be done to reduce the chances of this happening, or is it inevitable? Silicone lubricant on the tracks? What kind?

Thanks,
Gadget

[Phil Marx]

Well, I guess I'm getting to be an expert at this now, but not really since the repair only lasted a year! My wife was driving the ti yesterday and the driver's window let go. Now this car came to me nearly a year ago with a bad D/S regulator so I intalled a new one, new clips, and replaced a MISSING rear guide channel rubber/felt piece and straightened the crushed metal track at that time. Still it broke the front clip today leading me to believe that it jumped the front track going down and popped the clip and bent the arm going back up. Don't know because I've never been there when it's happened. I did glue the rubber in this time as it had slipped nearly 3" over the last 11 months. 3M black Weatherstrip adhesive. This time I just unbolted the regulator and straightened the arm with huge ChannelLocks. My wife is getting used to this so she tried to make sure nothing got mangled any worse than absolutely necessary.

Not that this helps but isn't it nice to know this problem is so universal? In eleven months I've replaced the left side regulator, straightened the right side and replaced both clips, and straightened the left side and replaced its clips. This blows!

[1996 328ti]

the bushings? or the Regulator Arms?
I'll replace the bushings again this summer.

[Phil Marx]

Earlier someone asked if they knew of anyone having the window who also had side airbags, but I saw no response... Asking again, has anyone had their window fail who also had side airbags?

Wouldn't really make any difference, except that when testing the regulator prior to putting the door back together you'd probably incur an SRS fault. Mine has the wiring for the side airbag (April '98 production), but no bags.

[PettitWC]

SO i saw this and figured I'd bring it back to life because my passenger side window fell off it's track on friday. I went to VOB BMW out on Rockville Pike if anybody knows it and they were real friendly and nice and gave me a club discount on new retaining clips. Then I got home and replaced the clips and tried the window. Turns out the arms or whatever they're called are bent. I tried to fix them real quick but didn't have a lot of time. I'm going to try to get out on Wednesday this week to see if I can bend them a little better, maybe over do it a bit to keep them in there for sure. If anybody has any little tricks that haven't been listed yet please let me know.

Thanks, Chris

[mickd]

I have had my drivers side window come off track many times, replaced window regulator once, used hardened allen head bolts with Loctite on the new regulator. Bent the arms back once on this this 2nd regulator. I think alot of what's going on with the window problems is the sensing circuit that should make the motor stop. I haven't researched it but I am guessing when the window hits up or down travel or when the window jams the motor should draw more current so it should stop. Well, you can see when the window goes to full up position, the door panel will move from all of the torque applied to the regulator, and the window will bow a bit from all the torque applied to it. This is why when I shut the window I move it down a hair to relieve the tension on the regulator. I also had the weld on the bracket on the rear door guide break and had the rubber insert on this guide come loose. Alignment of this guide is critical, must have an absolutely smooth transition from the door guide to the window frame on it's travel up/down. Also, don't forget the window play adjustment on the arm on the regulator. Don't make the adjustment too tight or loose, just so you don't have any play when you move the window front to back when it is in the down position. Also, lubricate the guides with silicone spray, I would suggest once a year. Use lithium grease on the gear drive and sliders. Don't reuse the nylon sliders once the ball pulls out with the clip in place, they won't hold as well. Haven't had any window problems since doing these things.

[dodj]

Hey guys....

My passenger window seems to rattle when the door is closed. This seems to happen when the window is in a downwards position and the door is shut. The rattle doesn't seem to happen when the window is up.

My door panel does not seem to be on 100% there is a small gap near where the mirror is it just one of the clips on the door is not on properly? Would this cause the window rattle?

Am I in danger of my window breaking, should i not use it until i have time to get it properly looked at??

thanks!

[robcarync]

my window used to rattle a lot when i shut it. i didnt know what exactly it mean...until it fell down in the door panel and i investiaged.

when i took the door panel off to try and fix the regulator...i noticed that one of the window tracks had actually broken off and there wasnt a guide track on one of the sides...so when the door was shut, the side of the window would rattle back and forth inside the door panel.

it didnt really rattle much when the window was up, because it had the top half of the door frame to hold it in place, but when it was down, one side of the window wasnt being held by anything!

when i took the door panel off, the window guide track was just laying at the bottom of the door panel...whcih is worthless when its chilling there not holding the window!

i managed to reattatch the window track to the original mounting place. its hard to describe, but basically the window track consists of a "U" shaped piece of metal, and a "U" shaped piece of rubberish stuff so the window doesnt get scratched. i basically drilled a hole on the "U" shaped piece of metal and bolted it back to the original piece it was mounted to.

and i know this makes no sense...but if you were to ever check out the inside of the door panel, youd be able to see if this is the case.

i wished i had pictures of when i fixed it :-/

[1996 328ti]

When you put the rubber guide back on, be sure to glue it in place.
It is fig 13.

Part numbers
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=CG73&mospid=47506&prod=19970800&btnr=51_2055&hg=51&fg=10

[robcarync]

yes, thanks steven...

i beleive the metal track is part 12...and if you notice on the bottom right it has the little rectangleish thing stick out...that attatches to the back of the track...and what i had to do was drill a hole in the track...and drill a holl in the rectangle plate...and use a really tiny bolt/nut and bolted that sucker together.

[joshydee]

sorry if this is a stupid question, but how do you know when its come off track. I have a 1998 316 compact and the window goes up fine (little slow) then when coming down struggles to a point then moves freee again. is this my regulator?
thanks
josh

[1996 328ti]

Could be a bad sign. :(
I'd suggest somekind of silicon spray on the rubber guide and along the tracks that the window slides up and down through. That reminds me. I am having the same problem. I'll listen to my own advice.

[JPerfect]

I had this happen to me last weekend. I was in the parking lot at my school, and my window just about fell into my door. I said oh crap, and eventually with some finesse, propped it back up, and it locked in place closed. I left it like this for a few days, but the sun was starting to make me sweat my ass off in my car even with the passenger side window open and the sunroof.

So on Wednesday, I parked in my driveway and said "the hell with this... if it's going to be fixed, it's going to be fixed now." I pushed the button to roll down the window, and to my surprise... the window went down... straight down with the force of gravity to the bottom of the inside of my door.

After cursing violently for about 2 minutes, i took the doorpanel off, which is a sinch, only broke one plastic clip... You have to pull it away from the door on the bottom, and on the top by the window, you actually have to pull it up, as to move it over your doorlock. Then you disconnect your Mirrors wire, and take a look.

I noticed that the metal tracks that the window connects to the actuator/regulator with, were FILTHY. Years of dirt and grime actually seized a part that needs to slide in a track connected to the window, in order for the window to open properly. So i took off some weatherstripping, and removed the whole glass.

I grabbed a wirebrush, a toothbrush, some Q-Tips, some grease/grime remover, some chassis grease, and a towel and got to work. I cleaned all of these mechanisms, scraping away all of the crust. When i saw the metal again on the tracks, i made sure everything was lubed up good, and i re-assembled it. I greased everything up reallly good so that there was NO friction.

The reason the window fell was because... well on the bottom of the glass, there are two tracks. In each track, goes a slider. The slider needs to move freely through the tracks. Connecting the sliders to the actual Power Window Regulator, is a Ball Joint. When the slider seizes, the ball joint pops out, causing one side of the window to fall. As you can imagine, when one side falls, the other will follow eventually.

Needless to say, when i put it back together, it ended up breaking again. So i took it all apart, sprayed EVERYTHING WITH LITHIUM GREASE, re-assembled, and called it a day. That day has now been a week, and after continuous use, i can proudly say that it works better than it ever has, no clicks/shifts/scrapes...

So don't go replacing things you don't have to...

My fix took two hours (because i didn't apply the lithium grease the first time) and cost nothing because i had all of the supplies. You can scrape the crap off with a screwdriver if you really had to, then get grime remover and use a toothbrush to finish it off. You must use something equivalent to chassis grease for the track, since it seems to have to be thick.

If you have any questions, please feel free to ask.

Jeff :)

[aceyx]

is anyone else having problems with the track having "burrs" on it? my sliders won't move around very well, and get caught at certain points. i feel this is why my regulator has been replaced yearly (under warranty, thank god).

i'm going to redo the entire thing sometime this summer since i'll have my dremel back. replacing all weatherstripping at the same time (car has 140k miles). i also want to clean off any rust that may have developed inside the door panel, since i know water gets down in there.

[bradley rouse]

i used a c clamp t staighten the retainer arm, and have the clips on but i am having trouble getting the window to stay on the front track. I found the 'guide felt' in the bottom of the door. where does it go?

[1996 328ti]

i used a c clamp t staighten the retainer arm, and have the clips on but i am having trouble getting the window to stay on the front track. I found the 'guide felt' in the bottom of the door. where does it go?You will see a guide towards the rear of the window. Glue it back into place.

[barische]

well today i called our mechanic and told him taht the both doors clips are broken, the regulators are fine, but the passenger side window might also be broken at the bottom of it too so we'll see when i take the car to the shop this week. also has to fix the windshield rubber, i have a vacumm leak so the car is really pissin me off lately and the coolant pump seems to be makin weird noises so i might have to get that changed too. so overall its gonna cost me hell alotta money. i always thought bmws were good realiable cars, but now i start to think otherwise. noone else windows break down ever.

wish me luck that it wont cost alot cuz im broke as hell.

[cali-ti]

good luck barische. i've had the "luck" to own my car since new so i know what has been done (or not) and what care has been taken in maintaining it. the only window problem i've had was after clipping a deer. hopefully it won't cost you too much man ...

[denissef]

I just bought a 95 318 ti last week and the same day I took the car home, the window fell.... I had to take it back to the dealer, they told me that the "clip" that holds the window was broken, so they replaced it. I don't like the fact that I have to go back to the dealer because they couldn't put the cover back because the clips or whatever they are called that hold the cover to the door were breaking so they had to get others, so yeah they sent me home with the cover attached to the door with just the door know. This sucks, hopefully they will put it back and leave my car looking the way it looked before.

It is amazing to see how common is this window problem with this car!!!!!!! And to see how many times the problem can become a problem again, and how expensive is to fix it!!!!

Holly crap!

But I still love my little car!

[denissef]

I had this happen to me last weekend. I was in the parking lot at my school, and my window just about fell into my door. I said oh crap, and eventually with some finesse, propped it back up, and it locked in place closed. I left it like this for a few days, but the sun was starting to make me sweat my ass off in my car even with the passenger side window open and the sunroof.

So on Wednesday, I parked in my driveway and said "the hell with this... if it's going to be fixed, it's going to be fixed now." I pushed the button to roll down the window, and to my surprise... the window went down... straight down with the force of gravity to the bottom of the inside of my door.

After cursing violently for about 2 minutes, i took the doorpanel off, which is a sinch, only broke one plastic clip... You have to pull it away from the door on the bottom, and on the top by the window, you actually have to pull it up, as to move it over your doorlock. Then you disconnect your Mirrors wire, and take a look.

I noticed that the metal tracks that the window connects to the actuator/regulator with, were FILTHY. Years of dirt and grime actually seized a part that needs to slide in a track connected to the window, in order for the window to open properly. So i took off some weatherstripping, and removed the whole glass.

I grabbed a wirebrush, a toothbrush, some Q-Tips, some grease/grime remover, some chassis grease, and a towel and got to work. I cleaned all of these mechanisms, scraping away all of the crust. When i saw the metal again on the tracks, i made sure everything was lubed up good, and i re-assembled it. I greased everything up reallly good so that there was NO friction.

The reason the window fell was because... well on the bottom of the glass, there are two tracks. In each track, goes a slider. The slider needs to move freely through the tracks. Connecting the sliders to the actual Power Window Regulator, is a Ball Joint. When the slider seizes, the ball joint pops out, causing one side of the window to fall. As you can imagine, when one side falls, the other will follow eventually.

Needless to say, when i put it back together, it ended up breaking again. So i took it all apart, sprayed EVERYTHING WITH LITHIUM GREASE, re-assembled, and called it a day. That day has now been a week, and after continuous use, i can proudly say that it works better than it ever has, no clicks/shifts/scrapes...

So don't go replacing things you don't have to...

My fix took two hours (because i didn't apply the lithium grease the first time) and cost nothing because i had all of the supplies. You can scrape the crap off with a screwdriver if you really had to, then get grime remover and use a toothbrush to finish it off. You must use something equivalent to chassis grease for the track, since it seems to have to be thick.

If you have any questions, please feel free to ask.

Jeff :)

Wow, this is interesting... and I have a question, what is lithium grease for?
My driver window fell the first day I took my car home, so they fixed at the dealer, but the couldn't put the doorpanel back, because the plastic clips were breaking, what year is your car?
thanks

[tonymasone]

I didn't read all the replies, but I do know the problem isn't usually with the regulator itself, my 1996 318ti had both windows pop off track within a week, crazy. It's not the regulator itself, it's the little white plastic clips that hold the regulator on the tracks of the window, they get a big friction build up. What you need to do is get some grease and lube it up real good. You shouldn't have any more problems.

[JPerfect]

i havent touched this thread in a while. My windows have been fine. One thing i forgot to mention, was that when i had taken my door apart to clean the sliders again, i noticed there were 2 broken sliders sitting at the bottom of the door. I'm guessing the previous owner had some trouble too.

Denise, the Lithium grease is a lubricant that helps the sliders to move freely. Also, my car is a 1995ti like yours. It's black on black. I have pictures up of it in the photo gallery. Also noticed your are from NJ, though I am not sure where Vineland is.

See ya on the road.

[1996 328ti]

I replaced the sliders last weekend. They weren't broken but I like to change them every couple of years when I have the time. Almost didn't get the window back in the track. I didn't realize their was a forward window track. I lost one of the clips on the bottom of the door and it is now stuck in there. Also glued the door panel back on. Hopefully I am set for another couple years.

[shawn786]

I have a 95 sport, and the driver-side window just came off track. Has anyone else expierenced this, if so, how much or how easy to fix.......

ThankshI, I AM SHAWN I HAVE A 95 TI DRIVER SIDE WINDOW GETS OFF THE TRAC EVERY KNOW AND THAN THIS SIT IT PAIN IN THE ASS IT PROB. WOULD TAKE YOU 30 MIN TO FIX JUST OPEN THE PANNEL (LOWER THE WINDOW ALL THE WAY TRY FO STICK UR RIGHT HAND IN TO THE LITTLE HOLE AND TRY TO PUT THE WINDOW BACK IN TO THE FRAM,IF THIS DOSENT WORK THAN ROLL THE WINDOW UP HALF WAY AND 1. CHECK TO SEE IF THE LIL WHITE PLASTIC THINGS THAT ARE HOLDIND THE ARMS (THAT ROLLS WIND. UP AND DOWN)ARE BROKEN OR NOT THET HAVE A LIL METTAL CLIP ON THEM USE SCREW DRIVER TO TAKE THEM OUT IF THEY ARE REPLACE THEM, AFTER REPLACING (DO NOT PUT THE WINDOW BACK/ATTACH TO THE ARMS ON BOTH SIDES ,,,NOW U R GOING TO NEED HELP OF SOME ONE TO HOLD THE GLASS UP AFTER U PUT THE GLASS BACK ON TO THE FRAM(ROLL WINDOW HALF WAY UP AND BRING THE ARMS CLOSE TO THE PLASTIC HOLDERS) AND THEN CLICK/PUSH THEM IN HARD U'LL HEAR CLICK NOISE AND DONT FORGET THE METTAL CLIPS TO BACK ON THEM AND U R ALL SET!!!
:smile:

[aceyx]

while we appreciate the enthusiasm, caps are generally viewed as screaming.

please edit your post, and welcome to the forums.

[JPerfect]

Yeah, geez dude!

Chill!

[dinuguan]

I just got my driver side window fixed at local bmw repair shop for 170 bucks. They had to change out the sliders. They also reglued my door on, because previously I had taken it to an auto glass place, and all the black clips became unglued when they took the door apart.

A couple years ago I had to fix the passenger window but I made the mistake of taking it to the dealer. I remember it cost me 300 bucks.

[aceyx]

$170 for sliders? my dealer charges ~$70.

$300 is reasonable if the regulator needs replaced.

[dinuguan]

Well either way, just a few hours ago, the window jumps out of the track on the way up with the front part lower and the back raising up.

I'll be calling the repair shop on Tuesday and see if they can take another look at it.

[iking3i]

My 98 ti had the same problem it when down and then wouldnt go up..i went to put the window up but all you heard was the track scratchin the glass.. i took off the panel.. wasnt hard at all either.. and saw that the track was bent.. so i bent it back into place and placed the window back.. and its perfect.. its been workin great for the past 7 months... you dont have to spend money..

[dinuguan]

Well, the repair shop had to replace the regulator as well. They even riveted it out and inserted a new bolt to hold it in place. The dealer even said that is the official fix for the regulator bending problem. They charged me 224 bucks.

So far so good, it's working fine.

[aceyx]

that's a real good price.

the last time my regulator was changed (actually, two times ago) they replaced the rivets with bolts. seems to hold a bit longer, but it still eventually eats it.

[dinuguan]

Well, the repair shop had to replace the regulator as well. They even riveted it out and inserted a new bolt to hold it in place. The dealer even said that is the official fix for the regulator bending problem. They charged me 224 bucks.

So far so good, it's working fine.

I meant to say repair shop, not dealer. Let's hope this holds for awhile. I hate explaining to security booth guards or toll booth workers that my window doesnt go down.

[BimmerGirl318]

my 95 jsut did this to me in december. It was of course the coldest day of winter. 6 below and my passenger window gets off track and is angled into the car, and of course on my way back to school from my internship. My uncle put it back on track and disconncted the power. It's been 1 month and now my driver's side window is starting to be a little goofy. Gald to know i'm not the only one.

[tonymasone]

My best advice to you or whoever is going to fix it is to make sure you lube it up very very well. I had the passenger side window go off track once, fixed it, and it went off track again, replaced the little white clips, went off track again, and i got some high quality heavy duty grease and lubed that baby up well, and it's been a year and a half no problems with it what so ever, if you look at how they have it setup, it's a recipe for friction build up, probably why they changed the design later on

[denissef]

yeah you are not alone... At that time, I took my car to get it fixed. A month ago the drivers window came off track and it was angled too. My husband helped me to put it back. I haven't taken the car to the shop yet, so the drivers window is out of service. At least we have cold weather right now.

[PettitWC]

my passenger side window has been broken forever. I tried bending the arms back but it didn't work. Now I just have to get some money together to get it taken care of.

[DustenT]

my passenger side window has been broken forever. I tried bending the arms back but it didn't work. Now I just have to get some money together to get it taken care of.

Both of my windows are inop. I unplugged the switches.

[aceyx]

My husband[. . .]
Woah. And here I was thinkin you was jailbait based on your picture.:doh:

[PettitWC]

Woah. And here I was thinkin you was jailbait based on your picture.:doh:


ditto

[campaiar]

I've been there too with my 1995. The front of my driver's side window jumped the track and stopped moving, while the back kept going up. I took the door panel off and straightened the track and the lift mechanism.

One of the plastic sliders was half gone so I had to do a bit of rigging. Its been months and its still working!

Jailbait is sweet.....

[ATLien]

This link will probably die in a bit, but stock up while it's here, I suppose. Haha.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=8031070396&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

This problem defintely doesn't go away. Anyone thought about welding a piece of re-bar (sp?) or something like that to the bent arms (that keep bending)?

Also, if anyone knows where to purchase the window seals (or guides, that line the window frame and metal window rails in the door) please post the source. Thanks.

[Phil Marx]

I don't understand you folks sometimes. The slider part is under $4 from my local dealer. Why would anyone want to buy one off ebay for more than that plus shipping, and wait for it to arrive by mail...unless you're the one selling them? Hmm, both the previous post and the ebay seller are from the Atlanta area.....

[Bill Strong]

Oh joy.
Yesterday was freezing, into the lower 20F. Frost everywhere.
Rolled down window to get a better look so I don't hit my mail box while backing out. Window shuttered, kinda stopped, then rocked back and fourth and fell loudly into the door. Oh joy.

I suspect the window had frozen to the upper door guide and when pulled down the rods twisted or bent. Or something like that. I have 3 projects going on right now. I don't have time for this crap!
Anyone know a guestimate on what a BMW/Porsche dealer would charge for this fix?

[1996 328ti]

Out of habit I always lower the window a fraction at a time.
I also replace the guides every couple years.
I never know when lowering the window in the cold when it will snap.

[cali-ti]

Bill ... this thread should give you an idea:
http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=8596

[cdonahue]

I agree with jeph23. there should be a recall or something. normally i try to avoid opening windows in the winter, but i had a rather aesthetically pleasing young lady riding shotgun who just had to open the window. CRACK! I'm pretty sure she pulled the glass off of the track. no more passsenger side window opening for me, either.
good luck to everyone else.

[cpl]

I just finished fixing the window, add a spray can of white grease w/ extension hose. it took about an hour but I didn't replace any parts, just tweaked stuff. I'll tell you how long it lasts.

[Phil Marx]

Anyone know a guestimate on what a BMW/Porsche dealer would charge for this fix?
Well, if you're talking about Crown in Charlottesville, they wanted $350 to install my starter and Blueridge Motor Works did id for $150. Call them both but remember they can't tell what it needs until they go inside. Might be just clips, probably its a regulator, and maybe the guide track is broken at the weld. All are possibilities. I'm game to help you figure it out if you want. I may even have a spare new driver's regulator.

-Phil

[Bill Strong]

cool man. I am going to wait until later in the week as the rain and snow stuff may be falling. I'll just drive my pickup all week.
Ya, I was going to go to Crown. Figured it would be easier if they did it, if they screwed up I would not be out money. Not that I would screw it up. I just have two cars in the shop now and no room for a bmw.
Phil, I work at the UVA Bookstore, how far are you from there?

[Phil Marx]

I'm in Ivy, but with no inside work space. I'm sure you'll need at least two clips one way or another; p/n 51321938884 at about $4 each. Where do you live?

I used to think the dealers charged so much because they knew they'd have to practically rebuild the door panels and reglue the clip supports to do a professional job. I've since learned they don't bother.

[DustenT]

What is the best lube to use on the plastic clips/sliders? My new regulator is coming in today and I want to do it right, so I don't have to open the door up again.

[tonymasone]

lol i used the same stuff you use to lube up your axels and things like that on older trucks and vehicles like that, real heavy duty stuff that would last in there and not just get pushed out the sides after continuous usage. oh and also make sure all the bolts that hold the window regulator to the door frame are nice and tight, look to see that they haven't moved from their original positions. I noticed that my window regulator had actually torqued itself loose a little and this was causing the whole thing to bind up.

[cpl]

I used white grease in the spray can with the extension hose (easier to get it everywhere without making too much of a mess), and (laugh if you want to) :biggrin: spray-on wax type motorcycle chain lube, once this stuff drys it sticks forever, which I also applied with an extension hose. This is the first time I have fixed this car, my two previous 325s had the same problem.

[angel318ti]

At least on my car I found out that the weather strpping is causing to window to catch and thats what bends the arms and brakes the guides. instead of the window riding on the inside of the weather stripping it is pushed back to where its riding between the metal and the rubber stripping.

[nilknarf]

I ordered a used regulator from a search on car-parts.com for $46 shipped. Just installed it and everything works great. Used the four 6mx10 bolts and white lithium grease on the sliders. The only problem that I ran into was that it was torquing really hard when closing (it always had...probably what bent the regulator in the first place). So I adjusted the bolt that sits in the middle of the regulator, by loosening it, sliding it to the left, and then retightening.

[ZX12R]

hi im new to this site, very cool lots of info,ive owned my 318ti for about 3 years,i had the window break about 3 years ago right when i got the car,it bent the 2 regulator arms and i just bent them back with vice grips and plyers,i think the main problem is the grease that is used ,my door grease had turned into a thick clay,and was binding everything up really bad, so i cleand the grease out of the tracks,with wd40 and then with rubbing alcohol,then lubed the tracks and nylon slides with motorcycle chain lube,and the door works better than when i got the car and have had no problems with it in 3 years hope this helps,

[tonymasone]

you hit the nail on the head, the most important thing i've found with the windows is the choice of lubrication, i used chassis lubricant for heavy duty truck axels, same thing 2 years now no problems, funny because i had the exact thick gray clay in my widow hinges.

[ZX12R]

ya i think its just the lube, i think the parts are all strong enough its just the friction of that ****y grease that was used in the tracks,i mean my regulator arms were bent in half and they bent out fine and are still working fine,with chain lube the window went 2times as fast and didnt bind up or make any weird noise at all.

[tonymasone]

ya mine actually didn't bend, they moved their position on the pivot points, at first i thought they were bent and tried the same thing as you, but it didn't work, then i noticed a clean spot where the orginal bolt was suppost to be, i unscrewed it a bit, adjusted the arm, tightened up, lubed up, and been fine so far lol, damn e36 windows, welcome to the forum

[operaflute]

Just had mine fixed for the FIFTH time. First time I was out of town - shop just put it back on clips. Next time, same deal, by my hubby as we were leaving town the next day. Third time an independant BMW mech put a new reg in. Fourth time, the same guy fixed it again (for free). This time, fixed again (for free) by same mech. What the heck??
Glad I never replaced the tinting, since that gets scratched all to hell everytime. A really nice look.
BTW - I do have the side airbags, for the person that asked.
Nice to know it's not just me...

[bimmer318ti]

Happen to me.. great!

Q. Is the regulator the same for all e36?

[Donovan]

Okay happened to me yesterday. This is the third time my 1998 318ti (the driver window) experienced this problem. Actually the first two happened when it was with the previous owner (my bro) and he had the regulator replaced. This time around I would be happy if it just stayed closed so I wouldnt have to deal with it.

[Donovan]

Just got the regulator replaced. Never had problem with passenger side but nonetheless after reading through this thread I will limit the use of that power window.

[BimmerGirl318]

UPDATE: I followed the instructions listed and finally fixed the passenger window. While I was at it i went ahead and did the drivers side too.
Thanks for all the help- it saved me the trip the the shop and lots of money!
Thanks again!

[drrty byl]

I have now repaired both driver's and passenger side windows countless times during the 2.5 years I've owned my ti. I can now disassemble the door, place the window back on track, pop it into the rivets and reassemble the panel in under ten minutes. My tint has also been scratched to hell and I don't dare replace it. What seems to knock my windows out of place is closing the doors hard, while the windows are partially rolled up, or rolling the windows all the way down.

This seems like real cause for a vehicle recall. I know a lot of cars have window-related issues, but this thread makes it obvious that this is a major factory defect among 318tis. I guess a window that breaks regularly is better than an engine factory-guaranteed to blow at 80k..

[1996 328ti]

Don't forget while you are in there to be sure the rubber guide towards the rear is in place. They are often found at the bottom of the door.

[robcarync]

i had just replaced my driver side regulator at christmas time...and now i can hear its about to fcall again...ill have to rip it apart later tonight and investigate the white clips that i think are broken now...

[pdxmotorhead]

If every owner of a E36 would fill out this form......

https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/Consumer.cfm

Some action might be seen....

Dave
I put this in my complaint form.

3 series models (E36) And notably the 318Ti BMW automobiles have an extremely high failure rate for the window regulators. Its not uncommon to have to repair them anually at a cost of approx 300 dollars per door. The failure occurs without warning causing the window to jam, or fall inside the door. This is a well known documented problem among the owner comunity and reactions at dealers is "Oh yea happens all the time." I propose this could present an egress issue in event of an emergency.

At one point in the form I had to click E46 because they only gave me one option....

[drrty byl]

If every owner of a E36 would fill out this form......

great idea. filling it out right now

[aceyx]

I've just finished replacing the driver's side regulator (~1 hr). I will do the writeup in about two weeks, but will have the pics in the gallery by the weekend.

Anybody that's done this: is the front track (the part on the glass) more difficult for the slider to work in than the rear? Mine is noticeably different. I'm going to get in there sometime with a rat-tail file and maybe a wire wheel to see if I can smooth it out. I'm wondering if this is just me, from it breaking all the time, or from the factory (and if that, if this is the cause of the problem).

[adempster1]

My driver and pass regulator bent causing a brake on the white clips that run along the tracks; I got new clips for like $5.50 each and fixed my self. It’s been like 5 months now and no problem

[Kimmyis]

I fixed my window with a friend in under two hours. It is fairly easy... the only hard part is getting the sound proofing foam to stay in place afterwards. Good Luck!

[jimtherev]

Alright guys, here's a problem for ya: I've had to have my windows fixed 4 times since May. I'll start rolling it up, hear a popping noise, and suddenly the front half stays still while the back half rolls up. My mechanic has fixed the regulator 4 times now, and it just happened again last Friday. Any ideas for other things t could be?

[Kimmyis]

You may want to check that the pins are put back on the plactic clips and that the clips are intact. When my window came off track it was because the pins came off but the pins didn't break. You may need to replace them.

The other thing I think it might be is that your regulator is bent. We bent mine back into place but if your mechanic did this is might be not quite right causing it to pop out. Regulators are fairly inexpensive ($100) and are easy to replace.

The last thing I can think of is that there is something else in your door out of place that it is catching on... Have you tried taking the door apart yourself and looking in?

[jimtherev]

I haven't tried taking the door apart myself to look, but considering how little I know about cars it probably wouldn't do a ton of good. I'm just glad to find out i'm not the only person who's had issues with the windows.

[aceyx]

Alright guys, here's a problem for ya: I've had to have my windows fixed 4 times since May. I'll start rolling it up, hear a popping noise, and suddenly the front half stays still while the back half rolls up. My mechanic has fixed the regulator 4 times now, and it just happened again last Friday. Any ideas for other things t could be?

Should have seen this sooner. The front part of the glass is popping out of track, and getting stuck in the door jamb. You have to adjust one of the mounting points on the regulator to change the angle of the glass to a more level position otherwise this will happen again and again (as you know). It's the arm to the bottom left (driver's side). With the glass at half position, loosen the bolt, push down on the arm (snug, not hard) and retighten.


Now to reply to my own post . . .
is the front track (the part on the glass) more difficult for the slider to work in than the rear? Mine is noticeably different.
I pulled apart nearly the entire door this morning to replace the window guide and all the rubber parts. Apparently some grub mechanic put notches in the metal of the track on the glass using a screwdriver to pry off the retaining clips. Bastard. Sanded using a dremel and all is smooth.

We'll see how this fixes the situation. Just need to grab some locking nuts and I'll give it a shot.

[L84THSKY]

I had my window regulators replaced last year under warranty. The work was done by a local BMW dealership. So shortly after they did their work, I noticed something rattling around in the door. I opened the cover and found that the passenger side window guide broke off. This caused the glass to rattle when closing the door with the window down. I removed the part, and closed the panel up.

Recently I brought the car in for some small warranty work. They fixed the right door lock actuator, and the cam sensor. The other problem I asked them to fix was the window guide. They said it wasn't covered under warranty, so I bought the part and put it in last week.

To make a long story short, I put the guide in, along with the rubber insert to protect the glass. As I played with the up/down button, and watched the actuator work, I noticed something. One of the bolts holding the motor to the door frame was missing. As the window went up, the regulator assembly was torquing off the door where the missing bolt was. I went and replaced the bolt, then checked for tightness on the three other bolts holding the assembly to the door. All three of the other bolts were loose. So after the dealer replaced the regulator assembly last year, one bolt fell out, and the remaining three were loose. What bugs me is that the mechanic didn't notice this when her recently opened the door to examine the window guide. :mad:

All is fixed, by yours truly. You can't trust anyone but yourself to do a job right.

I haven't tried taking the door apart myself to look, but considering how little I know about cars it probably wouldn't do a ton of good. I'm just glad to find out i'm not the only person who's had issues with the windows.

[theinfiniteface]

I know this is old news for EVERYONE. But get this. The bottom bolt under the motor was literally ripped through the sheet metal on the door. How messed up is that? I don't even know what I want to do. BMW doesn't have a manual window conversion kit, and I wish they did. Does anyone know of a manual window conversion kit? Luckily I live in Hawaii, so having my Cali roof busted, and BOTH my windows out of service, I'm actually okay. I feel sorry for mainlanders in the North.

Edit: Is there any manual windows I could steal from another BMW? Like a 328i or something?

[drrty byl]

I don't even know what I want to do.

Maybe just accept that the windows will never open/close properly for more than a few months at a time without having to fix them, stop trying to operate them and remove the switches, or paint them black

[newagecustoms]

OK guys i have a new problem, I replaced my regulators a few months ago. Today on the way to work, my window falls while I'm rolling it down (there's nothing like the cool morning air while your flying to work) anyways, i took the door panel off at work to pop the clips back on (i've had to do that enough times! haha) and it wasn't the clips. The metal piece that is attached to the window was pulled off completely(the rear one). Any clues on how to fix this or where I can get the parts if i need them? I can't find a break down of this on realoem.com and I honestly dont know what the part is called.

[lilblkbmw]

ive had that problem for a while and never fixed it till my ac went out and needed to roll the windows down cause it got too hot. anyway, all u need is to bend your regulator (that big thing that works like a scissor) back straight with an arch joint pliers. lower the regulator halfway until u see the white sliding plastic with a clip and pop it off with a screwdriver. replace the white plastic sliders( 2 pcs per door). grease them up real good. realign the window on the rails.
what happened with your regulator is the grease on the sliders probably dried up and started putting a lot of tension on where the plastic sliders slide on. after a while the regulator starts bending cause of all the pressure that is put on it. the window motor is real powerful and caused the regulator to bend and it gets caught in the door pannels and finally derails your window. good luck! let me know if it works. better than spending $600. worth a try!

[Kimmyis]

That was exactly what we ended up doing with my windows. Not only had they come out of the clips but the regulators were bent. I just bent them back to shape and popped them back in. Have been working perfectly for over a year now! Beats buying a new regulator... cause that is expensive!

[marko]

+1

try changing little plastic clips first.
BOTH of my windows were f-up for the duration of this past winter (left them so thinking needed to get new regualtors - $$)... so finally I just bought new clips & took it to local mechanic around the corner when it started getting HOT..

passanger window just popped of the clips and once they were changed it was fine ever since.

driver side had a bent regulator arm, so the guy just bent it back to a 'close to original' position / changed the clips & so far it has been working OK for the past 1-2 months. I'm sure it will fail sooner or later again (since it is actually been bent backwards and forwards) but for the time being its fine.
$50 for labor & $6 for clips.

any, unless you really like to tool around with cars, do not attempt to do it yourself.. it is a PAIN IN THE A$$ job (though, not very complicated).

Check out
http://www.understeer.com/window.shtml .

[This message has been edited by Steven Schlossman (edited 01-31-2003).]

[newagecustoms]

um yeah, none of that has anything to do with what is wrong with my windows, i have new regulators, new clips, etc. My problem is that the metal piece that is attached to the glass itself came off of the glass and i cant get it back on right, it wont stay tight. This is the metal piece that the plastic pieces slide in. Is that a replacable part or am i just screwed?

[El magnifico]

this entire thread is alarming^

[vwt3]

You will see a guide towards the rear of the window. Glue it back into place.



What would you suggest to use for glue to hold rubber in place in track???

As any one brought parts form Car Parts to Go that is on RealOEM.com??

95 dollars seams not to bad for a window regulator...

vwt3

[drrty byl]

this entire thread is alarming^

My passenger side window just came off track again this week.. It worked for upwards of six months this time!

[El magnifico]

yea my passenger side gives me the most trouble... well atleast it gives me an excuse to get new breakpads while its in the shop

[Gallant]

I've always had problem with the driver's side. Now I suppose I should watch out for the passenger side too.

Actually I have put away a little money for the occassional repair for hood struts, hatch struts, and windows. I know theres more but just cant remember...sorry just trying to look busy here at work.

[El magnifico]

I've always had problem with the driver's side. Now I suppose I should watch out for the passenger side too.

Actually I have put away a little money for the occassional repair for hood struts, hatch struts, and windows. I know theres more but just cant remember...sorry just trying to look busy here at work.

^amen to that

[cooljess76]

I'm not going to read this entire thread, but has anyone either converted or heard of a kit to delete the power windows and switch to manuals? I managed to straighten the passenger's regulator with lasting results, but the driver's side keeps going off track. I fix it and it'll last for a couple of months but if I close the door with the window down, it slips out every time. Then I have a system of getting it back on track without actually taking the door panel off, but it's a PITA. I've tried to close the door gently and leaving the window slightly up before shutting the door, but it still messes up. I want to tint my windows, but there's no way I'm gonna take a chance on scratching them up when the regulator decides to take a crap. So I was thinking of ripping them out and converting them to manual windows. Anyone ever heard of such a thing for the Ti?

[drrty byl]

I'm not going to read this entire thread, but has anyone either converted or heard of a kit to delete the power windows and switch to manuals? I managed to straighten the passenger's regulator with lasting results, but the driver's side keeps going off track. I fix it and it'll last for a couple of months but if I close the door with the window down, it slips out every time. Then I have a system of getting it back on track without actually taking the door panel off, but it's a PITA. I've tried to close the door gently and leaving the window slightly up before shutting the door, but it still messes up. I want to tint my windows, but there's no way I'm gonna take a chance on scratching them up when the regulator decides to take a crap. So I was thinking of ripping them out and converting them to manual windows. Anyone ever heard of such a thing for the Ti?

Just the other day I fixed my passenger's side window for the ~10th time.. Were any e36 3 series produced with manual windows? I've been looking on realoem and haven't found any so far. If not, it seems like you could pull the parts from a different/older model. This might be a real pita to retrofit, but probably still less trouble than repairing the windows every 3-6 months.. ugh

[oakley]

My bleeding passenger window just fell off and left me stranded at work at midnight..I only wound it down to clear the condensation from it as its freezin here at the mo..Grrr, couldntdrive it home coz then it would have to have been left outside insecure, still at least its not raining at the mo or I would have been really screwed..I reckon iv truelly knackered it tho as I kept trying to make it go up and down to see if i could jam it closed...Made some very bad almost window crackin noises but it didnt actually break thank god! My Ti's only a bleeding yr 2000 too....This really sucks

[cooljess76]

Oakley, the grease used by the factory to lubricate the plastic sliders turns into a paste over time. I bet you could probably fix it without buying new parts. I just fixed my driver's side and I think this time it's a permanent fix. It's been falling off track every month for the past year! I removed the door panel and the window itself(had to remove the weather seals). Then I removed the old grease from the sliders and tracks and regreased them with brown U-joint grease. The rubber guide had fallen out of the rear vertical window track, so I glued it in place with shoe goo. I straightend the regulator arms with a pair of channel-lock pliers. After putting everything back together I found that the window still came off track in the front if I slammed the door with the window rolled down. Upon investigating I found that my problem the whole time was caused by the front vertical track being bent. It took a couple of tries, but eventually I was able to straighten it out by hand. I guess when the window came off track the very first time because of the grease drying out, it bent the regulator arms AND the front vertical track. The window slides smoothly in the tracks now and stays firmly in it's tracks when I slam the door. I also found that 5 of the 10 door panel clips had came unglued from the door panel and were stuck in the door. There's been many people saying that they couldn't find a glue that would adhere to the door panels. I found that JB Weld(cold weld epoxy) works best. Those suckers are never coming off! When removing the door panel, remember that there's 2 torx screws holding it on also, one under the handle(not the lever) and another one under the mirror switch or in your case the plastic cover where the mirror switch would be if your car was LHD. Anyway, sorry to hear you got stranded, our windows are a PITA. I've considered retrofitting manual windows, but I think my worries are over. Hope this helps, best of luck.

Cheers,
Jesse

[oakley]

cheers chap thanks..nodoubt 'll be in touch with more questions once i take a look at it in detail.just gotta find away of jamming the window in place with it fully shut to protect it from the weather....and prying thievin fingers!! :)

[b.u.ti-ful]

I've read all ten pages of this thread. I have lubed and straightend everything. I have been playing with this mechanism quite a bit while having the panel off. Here is the final result. When you get the window back in the front and rear verticle guide channels and straighten the control arms and lube the nylon glides it all works well. But here is the problem. When putting the window up - everything works perfectly. It is when putting the window down that it wants to jump out of the front verticle guide channel and AFTER THAT the arms pop out of the nylon gliders. Here is what I am doing now. When I want to open my window, I put it down two inches - then I put my fingers on the top of the window and push it down to take out the slop and keep it in the front verticle guide channel. And then you should keep pushing down on the window as you make it go all the way down. I have tested it out a number of times with the panel off and this method keeps it in the front guide channel every time with no arms popping out of the nylon glides. I wish I could think of a way to fix the slop problem, but I haven't thought of anything, so I will have to keep using the push down method.

[cooljess76]

Sounds like you're having the same problem I was having, only yours pops out when you're rolling it down. I would see if you could find the area on the front vertical track where the window is popping out. Then take the window out of the tracks, no need to completely remove it. Take your right hand and stick it through the forward most opening on the door. Grab the front vertical track and twist it counter clock wise(if the window is popping off track outward). If it's popping off track inward, twist it clockwise. Just do a little at a time, and keep trying it until you find the spot where the window rolls up and down smoothly and doesn't go off track. In my case, it only came off if I slammed the door with the window down, so when you do yours, with the window down, reach in there and pop the window into the front vertical channel and then slam the door. Check to see if it pops out. If so, you know where to start. BTW, I'm pretty sure mine is fixed for good this time.

[b.u.ti-ful]

I see, so you are saying that the front guide is out of alignment and that is why I have to shove the window down instead of it sliding down on it's own? Sounds like a good theory - I'll take a look. Thanks.

[cooljess76]

Sounds like what I went through. Everything else was straight and the window kept popping out of the front track. As it's rolling down, if it starts to slip out of the track, it will have more resistance in the front, causing it to go crooked and then pop the sliders off of the regulator arms. Try to feel which way the window is going off track(inboard or outboard) If it's going outboard, grab onto the front vertical channel and twist it counter clockwise. Inboard, twist clockwise. It helps if you could roll the window down a little at a time and keep feeling the vertical channel until you find where the window starts to come off track. Thats about where you want to twist it back into place. Once you find that spot, take the window out of the track and let it rest away from the track so you have room to get your hand in there and tweak it. Best of luck to you.

[cooljess76]

I just realized that the vertical tracks need to be bent different directions depending on which side they're on. My bad, I was assuming it was the left side since that's the side that was giving me and Oakley problems, but if it's the right side, twist it in the opposite direction that I described above. Sorry about that.

[Kaliimc]

My driver side window went off track the other day, got it fixed after reading all of your experiences posted here. I cleaned out the old lubricant, replaced the broken slider, added new white lithium and put the door back together with minimum frustration. :cool:

Have to conduct preventative maintenance on the passenger side when I can now. :biggrin:

[b.u.ti-ful]

Thats okay cooljess, because when I grabbed the right verticle channel through the square hole on the right I was not able to twist it anyway.

[JPerfect]

Ah, winter-time. My passenger window just fell again today... Happens every year.

But I was smart this time, and after I got the window back up, I took the switch out. Now there will be no meddling passengers adding to my woes.

[b.u.ti-ful]

I wasn't going to admit it, but I just put duct tape over my switch for the same reason. Plus, I am forgetful.

[rgirl]

oh man, I should've at least put some tape over mine! I had to valet park my car today and they rolled down my window- now I can't get it up at all! :mad:
even better, my mechanic is totally booked til friday, and it's supposed to rain in a couple of days. fun fun.

[zboot]

Hey, my rear channel is just bare metal. Is there supposed to be some velvet thingy on it too?

[React]

Damn passenger side went went ape **** today.. Broken regulator. I replaced it, bolted down. New bushings, yet it still doesn't work... I was half asleep when I did it, the window was aligned properly. Used axle grease though, all I could find...

Don't these regulators come already sinced in the position you install them in? When I pushed the button all the way down the ****ing guides hit the bottom... I know something is wrong just from that sign... That basically is my main issue, but question is..

Is there a certain "timing" you set the regulator to? Like with the teeth I mean.. Or maybe I forgot to install something else?? Is there something part behind the window motor that regulates how far it goes??

[React]

Hey, my rear channel is just bare metal. Is there supposed to be some velvet thingy on it too?


Does your window rattle when you close the door when it's not all the way up?

[React]

oh man, I should've at least put some tape over mine! I had to valet park my car today and they rolled down my window- now I can't get it up at all! :mad:
even better, my mechanic is totally booked til friday, and it's supposed to rain in a couple of days. fun fun.



Roll the window down as far as it will go, don't bend your guides though! Pop the 2 regulator arms out.. Have a buddy hold the window in seat to the very top. Push the button until it reaches max peak.. Put maybe some rubber with duck tap over the bushing/nipples (whichever is left).. It will hold trust me, just fix it when you can..

If you hit bumps and the window starts the rattle try to reseat it better, don't want to even get the slightest chip in it, though it shouldn't do that though.

Btw it's a ghetto procedure.

[React]

**** I'm responding to old messages.... Shame on me I need a nap...

[teetime4one]

Hey, my rear channel is just bare metal. Is there supposed to be some velvet thingy on it too?
this is a NOT SO OLD POST...so here ya go.
yes, there should be felt in the window guide track.
be sure to glue it into place when installing the new felt.

[b.u.ti-ful]

MAD props to cooljess76 for the window fix tech article:

http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20666

We finally got good weather here and I printed out the directions and covered every step.

It was the fore and aft tracks that needed bending to keep the window in the groove daddyo.

Now she's slicker than snot on a glass doorknob.

[React]

Anyone able to answer my question( couple posts up )? I haven't worked on it since, but wanted to know if theres a stopper so the guides wont go all the way down... Or is there a stopper part on the window track..

[teetime4one]

if i read this correctly i would have to say no.
there are no type of "stoppers" in or on our windows.
the regulator will accomplish that if it is working properly.
there is no need to reset the teeth on the motor and regulator...it's plug n play.
good luck...hope this helps

[b.u.ti-ful]

Hey React, I still have my panel off so I took a pic of where the teeth are when the window is all the way up in case it looks different than yours.

[b.u.ti-ful]

Oh, I should mention - that is the driver's side.

[b.u.ti-ful]

Is there a certain "timing" you set the regulator to? Like with the teeth I mean.. Or maybe I forgot to install something else?? Is there something part behind the window motor that regulates how far it goes??

I just read that you can initialize the windows.

1. Close the door and turn key to on. Fully open window.
2. Fully close window.
3. Hold window button in up position for at least 5 sec after window is closed.
4. Repeat for other window.

[kimpossible]

yes i have had the SAME problem happen to BOTH windows in ADDITION to the cali sunroof breaking! i have taken it back to the dealership and to a shady mechanic a total of 7 times for both windows. the driver's side window slams against the door if you close the door with the window rolled down - i am waiting for it to break again -- and the passenger side switch is sticking now - as if the lift is going out. i love my car with a passion - i wouldn't trade it in for anything else -- but i've had countless problems with it...

[blackti]

i agree with kimpossible, I love my car for some reason and dont know why. Its cost me more than its worth in the last year in maint. , both windows dont work AGAIN, for the second time now, I will never have heat in the winter, girls dont like it and its slow. why do I still have this car.. good gas mileage and it still runs great!

[elchicano]

Dude there is a write up thats good on this. If you follow everything in there your window shouldn't be falling off. I don't know what kind of girls your into but girls always seem to like my Ti. There's also a thread about fixing heating issues. All you have to do is search the threads here in the forum and you will find your answers.

[blackti]

whatever dude, I dont need a car to get girls, just making a point about an old economy car..... not impressive.. sorry. Have another 2002 and the windows are starting to click halfway up.

[elchicano]

Not saying that having a Ti will get you girls at all. You said girls don't like it, I just said that girls say they like my car. There is a fix for the windows, but if your going to give up then enjoy driving with your windows up all the time then.

[blackti]

I have replaced both window regulators and sliders. they lasted one year each. what am I doing wrong. If you know something that I cant find I would be greatfull for the tip, thanks mike

[blackti]

looks like I fell victim to some drunk posting. Sorry all, by bad.

[b.u.ti-ful]

I don't know if you found this yet, but if you follow all the steps in these directions, you will solve the problem:

http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20666

[blackti]

thanks, my prob is with the vertical track. I guess Its not worth it to me, fastlane for tolls solved all my problems. im just very unhappy with the overall quality and value.

[roadrash]

My driver side window dropped yesterday, so I finally get to lose my "window cherry" today. yay. When I removed the door panel yesterday to get the window up, it appeared that the regulator was OK, but the slider had just slipped out of the track.

I'm going to clean/replace the grease and the sliders (both doors) today. Should I replace anything else while I'm in there? E.g., should I replace the rubber strips in the vertical window tracks?

[b.u.ti-ful]

You might get away with just cleaning and greasing the plastic slider area.

But if it falls off again there is a good chance the two channels that guide the window are twisted.

For now, just be sure the rubber/felt is in the vertical channels - I put a little black silicone gasket sealer behind mine to keep it in there.

[blackti]

sounds like your in good shape, as long as you didnt bend the regulator at all. Just know that you might be doing it again, depending on how long you keep the car. Mine lasted about a year in the Ti, My windows in the 330ci are clicking and the sunroof wont close properly, and my 328 driver window doesnt work due to a bad motor.lol your not alone.

[roadrash]

Once I got both door panels off so I could compare the two mechanisms, all appears to be OK. I could tell that the drivers side had been replaced because it had 4 bolts where the passenger side had still had rivets. Another clue that it had been replaced was the drill bit fragment, and what looks like rivet fragments hiding in the bottom of the door. LOL

The only "unusual" thing I spotted was that on the driver door (the one that dropped) the rear guide track lining had slid down about 4-5 inches. I don't know if that was the cause of the problem, or happened when the glass fell. So, I slid that back into place, cleaned out the aluminum channels a little, and added a bit of teflon bearing grease that I had lying around. I also ordered 4 of the plastic sliders from Tisher @ $2.32 each. The local dealer wanted $9 each! No wonder he had "a drawer full of them." LOL I'll replace the 2 sliders on the driver door and put the panel back on later.

I got lucky with the door panels too, only one came off of the panel, one is loose, and none were broken. :-)

[blackti]

nice job. Im sure you did this anyway , but I would make sure those bolts holding on the regulator are nice and tight before you button it back up. Isnt that kind of a crappy design? I have to remove the stock rivets in order to replace my motor on the 328 !@#$%!

[roadrash]

Yep... I tightened the 4 bolts and they were all pretty snug. I haven't put the panel back on the drivers side yet... it'll probably be next week, after the sliders arrive.

I just thought of something... I could try to get some photos while the door panel is off. Any requests?

[GoEz]

So it looks like this just happened to me the other day on the way home from work...

Rolled the windows down when I was leaving and heard sort of a scraping noise as the window was going down. When I was almost home and tried rolling the windows up same thing and about halfway up there was a pop and the window was crooked. As far as I know the glass itself is still intact and the motor is ok....

Im trying to take a look at it myself following http://www.understeer.com/window.shtml but Im having trouble even taking off the door panel. The cheapest estimate just to take a look at it has been $80 which I really want to avoid.:redface:

I wish I was as good with cars as I am with computers.

Anyway I was hoping I could get a little advice on what to do next. I wish I knew what I was doing but frankly Im a bit scared that Im going to break something if I just dive into it.

[wolferj-RIP]

http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20666

[corey]

same with my car i pop my door off and fix my window about twice a week.. freakin drive threws man.. i need a window! atleast now i see its not just my car that has the problem

[jordanboy09]

lmao same thing here and i still havent fixed it

[wolferj-RIP]

Hmmm... Please allow me to repeat myself...

http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20666

The answer to your window problems... Again.. ;)

[318ti upstate ny]

When i purchased my 318ti the guy at the used car dealership said it was the only thing he had to replace besides a routine tune up. It only took 8 months for the window to go off track again. I think im gonna avoid the easy route and save some cash perhaps and fix it myself.

[bazar01]

I am getting fed up with the window coming off track like every month on my daugter's ti. The previous owner just left the window off the track for a long time before I got it.
It looks like the window regulator is bent and not lined up properly. I may have to go back in there for the 3rd time when she comes home with the ti I already have a new set of sliders so I am hoping I can straighten the regulator arms and fix this problem for good.

[drrty byl]

The failure is probably best characterized as "regulator arm bending" rather than "regulator failure."

I reset my windows 3-4 times before finally bending the arms straight, which fixed the problem for good -- never replaced the regulators themselves. Good luck.

[bazar01]

The failure is probably best characterized as "regulator arm bending" rather than "regulator failure."

I reset my windows 3-4 times before finally bending the arms straight, which fixed the problem for good -- never replaced the regulators themselves. Good luck.

Did you have to pull out the regulator or you just straightened them in place?

Thanks.

[bazar01]

nevermind, cooljess has a good writeup.

[UberWagen]

Re-post ninja's, get at me if you will. This is a common problem with the E36. There are plastic pieces that slide in channels on the window that allows the regulator to push the window up. While the window moves up or down, the lubricant in the slides after so many years becomes pasty instead of slick. The plastic slides break, the regulator arm drops, possibly bending your regulator arms, your window channels, maybe even dropping your window in the door. The door panel isn't too difficult compared to some of the cars I see at work. If you do plan to fix it, order the new slides, find some di-electric or bearing grease and lube the channels before you put the new slides in. I've already fixed one side that had the plastic pieces break in a drive thru at the bank(which had to be the best time for it to break). I will be lubing up the other side here shortly.

[bazar01]

Pulled the door panel. Sliders are still good, but the front regulator ball popped out of the slider with the spring clip laying in the bottom of the door skin. The rear slider is still in place. Put the front slider back in place and lowered the glass. Popped out the front regulator ball and it is way too far from the ball towards the inside of the car about an inch away. Got a channel lock plier and straighten the regulator so it lines up with the channel where the slider sits. Put the regulator ball back in the slider, then the clip, and tested the window up and down a couple of times.
I will leave the door panel out for a few days to make sure the window does not fall again.

Thanks to Cooljess' write up.

[cooljess76]

Pulled the door panel. Sliders are still good, but the front regulator ball popped out of the slider with the spring clip laying in the bottom of the door skin. The rear slider is still in place. Put the front slider back in place and lowered the glass. Popped out the front regulator ball and it is way too far from the ball towards the inside of the car about an inch away. Got a channel lock plier and straighten the regulator so it lines up with the channel where the slider sits. Put the regulator ball back in the slider, then the clip, and tested the window up and down a couple of times.
I will leave the door panel out for a few days to make sure the window does not fall again.

Thanks to Cooljess' write up.Did you slam the door a few times with the window down and check to see if it stays in the forward and aft vertical guides? Did you straighten/"tweak" the vertical guides? When the sliders bind up and the regulator arms bend causing the balls to pop out of the sliders, forcing the window to come off track, what do you think happens to the vertical guides? They have to bend/flex slightly as well to allow the window to fall out. If you don't straighten them out/realign them, they're not going to fix themselves. Sometimes they don't need any adjustment, sometimes they need a lot. It's one of those steps though, if you skip it, you'll probably end up doing this again later down the road:wink:

Don't forget to clean and replace that sticky white grease on the sliders and tracks, that's what causes the sliders to bind in the first place.

[bazar01]

Did you slam the door a few times with the window down and check to see if it stays in the forward and aft vertical guides? Did you straighten/"tweak" the vertical guides? When the sliders bind up and the regulator arms bend causing the balls to pop out of the sliders, forcing the window to come off track, what do you think happens to the vertical guides? They have to bend/flex slightly as well to allow the window to fall out. If you don't straighten them out/realign them, they're not going to fix themselves. Sometimes they don't need any adjustment, sometimes they need a lot. It's one of those steps though, if you skip it, you'll probably end up doing this again later down the road:wink:

Don't forget to clean and replace that sticky white grease on the sliders and tracks, that's what causes the sliders to bind in the first place.

I did not slam the door. The glass seems to be riding on the vertical guides really smooth. So the vertical guides must be straight.
I did straighten the regulator arms so they lined up with the plastic slider and it pops right in the slider and I did not have to force the ball into the slider to put the spring clip. It lined up pretty good.
I cleaned the slider guide and sliders of old hard grease and lubed it with new bearing grease.
Thanks for the tips, and I hope the window stays in place so I can put the panel back in. Otherwise, I will have to pull the vertical guides and be able to straighten the bent section if it pops back out again.

[cooljess76]

Yeah, a lot of people just straighten the regulator arms and pop the balls back into the sliders thinking they've fixed the problem.

The vertical guides are shaped like a bow. They have the same contour as the window glass itself. I wouldn't say that they get bent, more so that they get tweaked or twisted when the window initially pops out and goes off track.

Even when they're tweaked, you can usually still get the window to sit in them and operate normally. But after a while, usually when you slam the door with the window down, there's a little bit of play from the guides being tweaked that will allow the window glass rattle/wobble it's way back out of the guide.

I've worked on other people's windows before and sometimes the guides need very little if any tweaking. The easiest way to check it is by lowering the window and slamming the door a few times. I wouldn't slam it too hard at first, you don't want the glass to break, lol. But gradually increase your force until you feel comfortable. After you've slammed the door a few times, you can reach in there and feel if the window is still sitting in the bow shaped guides.

Check both the forward and aft guides. Note if the window is coming out of the guide on the inboard(towards the interior) or outboard(towards the exterior) side of the guides. Once you find out which way it's likely to come off track, then you can go about twisting that particular guide back into position.

It's kinda tricky and space is very limited. After you make your adjustments, raise and lower the window, then slam the door a couple more times with the window down and recheck to see if it's still coming out of the guide. Best of luck man, if you run into any snags lmk.

[justmanson]

just has this happen on both windows in the last week. For now i just jammed them since i hate working on windows.

I've been reading through the pages and it seems like its not a huge deal as long as every thing is straight. my problem is most all the clips are broken including the ball joint that slides up one of the rails. looked like this has been "repaired" a few times already.

atleast my AC works.

[GreeleyGal]

I have been fighting this issue for a few months now, first it was the passenger then the other day the drivers side went. On the passenger side here is what I have done so far. First I tried the DIY but it looks like that had all been tried before, I also replaced the sliders, didn't work. Installed a new regulator and sliders and still not fixed. The issue seems to be with the motor. The window will stay in the tracks but once it gets half way the window starts to go up at an angle as the front regulator starts lifting at a slower rate and pops out of the front track which then causes the regulator to pop out of the sliders. Is the motor no longer providing enough power to lift the window? The exact same thing is happening on the drivers side now. This issue has just about gotten on my last nerve.

[wht94lytng]

^^^ Mine is doing the same exact thing, its such a pain. Luckily its only the driver side for now. Hopefully the passenger side dosent have this problem!

[kyled]

Yes, it's funny till you have to fork out $300! But it is true that it happens on all cars, now just BMWs. I would recommend trying to do it yourself as well. Tedious but worth the satisfaction of not paying a BMW service center (http://www.peterpanbmw.com/service-department.aspx) to do it for you.

[1996 328ti]

Old thread.
I replaced the sliders and the forward slider keeps popping out.
Is that a sign of a bent arm?

[3.2TI]

I would take the glass out of the door and clean the metal plate with degrease and a brush. This will remove the old gunk and allow the new grease to slide in and out without stress. Make sure that the glass is inside both window guides on front and back of door.

GL..

[1996 328ti]

I would take the glass out of the door and clean the metal plate with degrease and a brush. This will remove the old gunk and allow the new grease to slide in and out without stress. Make sure that the glass is inside both window guides on front and back of door.

GL..That's the next step to pull the glass out of the door.
I read Jess' writeup.

[jenkinskg]

Mine comes off every 2 weeks, I even bought a new regulator, only $27 on amazon
Will try to straighten window tracks next

[chopperguy07]

My drivers side kept popping out. I messed with it for an hour or so until I noticed that the front vertical channel had broken the two bottom tack welds that held it in place. I drilled the vertical channel support where the welds were and riveted it back in place. Tweaked the verticals until the window operated smoothly. Then cleaned and re greased the horizontal channels and retainers. All good for now.

[SPHayes]

My window poped off track the first week I had the car. Replaced the regulator with a made in China $28 dollar part off Amazon. That lasted a week, went with a new BMW part and all seems well for now.

Patrick

[Mathieu]

I'll admit I haven't scrolled through all the posts but I've yet to see one where it's recommended to clean the rubber guides surrounding the window on it's way up. I used a silicon spray on them and it reduced a laboring regulator's job noticeably.

[wolferj-RIP]

I just order replacement rubber guides when I know I'm going to be working on a window for the first time. No need to try and clean the felt, and the rubber will be fresh.

[The_Ikon]

So many recommendations on this repair..! I have the regulator, guide felt and that's it. After i get new rivets do i "really" need anything else? Besides cleaning the components...

There was a thread/link that showed every part and part number needed to overhaul the entire door assembly... Do you guys have it?

[runnr548]

Simply put...PITA.

[Mongwit]

Replacing the window regulator isn't terribly hard. I used an excellent tutorial that I found online (but can't find right now to share, unfortunately). The window slides in vertical tracks, which you can check for deformation and either replace or bend back into shape. I have found that lubricating the track that the two white "cars" slide in helps. In fact, I'll be opening up my driver's door tomorrow to apply some lubricant as a preventative measure. Good luck!

[BlackBMWs]

One other thing that helps is to replace the rubber window guide in the rear rail that the window slides in. They get old, hard and not so slidey any more and help bind the window.

I keep a few spares along with the window sliders as I renew my TIs. :cool:

[sortasorted]

I'm not saying this is always the case, but I have fix a few of these that had nothing wrong with the regulator, motor, sliders, etc. The pinch weld in the front of the door, that connects the front track to the inner door skin, breaks. This allows the bottom of the window to pop out on the way down. Then on the way up the top pops out and the window falls into the door, or blinds up really bad bending the regulator arm and breaking the plastic sliders. The arm can be straightened, but the sliders are usually shot. The pinch weld can break on the track side and wont be seen by looking at the door. Sometimes the track will pull the weld through leaving an obvious hole. I've seen both. Reach in and wiggle the bottom of the front track, it shouldn't move at all. If it does, hold the track out of the way and drill an 1/8 inch hole "through" the weld. Then put the track back and drill through your first hole and through the tab for the track. Finish with a short screw for sheet metal. Don't over tighten. When drilling the tab, drill just outside the original weld. You want to make the gap between the front and rear tracks smaller. There was play when these cars were new, when the felt was fluffy and the rubber was new.

[FunElan]

I have fixed a few of these and have not had one actually be the regulator or any window parts. The pinch weld in the front of the door, that the bottom of the front track is attached to the inner door skin, breaks and allows the bottom of the window to pop out on the way down. Then on the way up the top pops out and the window falls into the door or blinds up really bad bending the regulator arm, which can be carefully straightened back out. It often breaks the inside of the weld and can't be seen by looking at the inside of the door. Sometimes the track will pull the weld through leaving a hole, I've seen both. Reach in and wiggle the bottom of the front track, it shouldn't move at all. If it does, move the track out of the way and drill an 1/8 inch hole through the weld. Then put the track back where it should be plus a little, to make it a bit tighter between the front and rear track than stock, and drill through your first hole through the tab for the track and put a 1/4 stinger screw threw them both but dont over tighten. Lithium grease the sliders and test.


Interesting...never thought to look for that. Definitely going to check that out when it warms up enough for me to fix my passenger side window...

[lgibshop]

My 1997 had this problem when I first got it about 4 years ago. All that was wrong with it was the pins at the bottom of the window that attached to the regulator. We actually bent the regulator when we replaced the pins, and bent it back!! Works fine.