View Full Version : M3 3.2l engine swap OBD-II
I will be performing an OBD-II M3 engine swap into my OBD-II 318ti within the next month or so. The car is a 1998, and I ordered it new in '98.
All of the swaps I have seen have been converted to OBD-I (even the later OBD-II cars). this works fine, but is not how I do things.
I am contemplating making available (for a fee) a complete document with photos detailing all aspects of this swap for anyone who wants to learn from my extensive research (and thanks to all those who have helped me along the way). In it will be included sorces of supply, including many web-sites and the "right people to talk to" as you can go to the right place, and spend an hour talking to the wrong person...(been there).
If you are interested in this document, or would like to contribute bits of information, please let me know by e-mail.
I'm not going to get rich off this, but if time is valuable to you (not to mention money) I will be able to save you both with this document if you are interested in this swap. Once completed, it will be invaluable to anyone concidering this swap.
If you have done other engine swaps in the past, this is verry straightforward. The electronics are the hang-up, and as I type this I am doing research in that area.
E-mail me at jim.leach@sulzer.com
myred318i
05-02-2002, 09:40 PM
I would be interested in it. I guess I'm not sure what the difference is, though. I have seen lots of information, even a shop in my area that does advertise these M3 conversions (OBD - I). What does that mean (OBD-I or OBD - II)?
I have a '95, and I am planning on doing a swap someday, either 2.8 or the M3 motor.
Ralliart
05-03-2002, 07:28 AM
I'm interested...
To "myred":
You have OBD-I in your 1995. Get a 3.0 M-motor from an 1995, and it goes right in. You need the ECU and wiring with the engine, but your swap is very easy, which is why most shops convert the cars when the swap is done.
OBD-II is the latest generation in engine management. It also is not very tolerant to modification. To "chip" an OBD-II car, the chip must be de-soldered, where OBD-I has a plug for the e-prom, so chip swapping is easy.
Also, as part of OBD-II, there is the "driveaway protection" which is a bear to work around. Basically, you do the swap, and even if everything is hooked up correctly, the engine won't start.
In a nut-shell, you don't need the document I'm creating. There are many good shops which will do your swap if you are not up to it, and it should only take two days.
Have fun!
ayton
05-03-2002, 01:34 PM
Interested in seeing what you come up with. But just to let you know people just don't do OBDI swaps for nothing, it yields more power...about 25hp! My friend has it on a 99 M3 and it screams.almost hard to believe his car is NA. and EWS isn't nearly the "bear" that everyone thinks it is http://www.happytogether.com/318ti/forum/wink.gif
myred318i
05-03-2002, 02:48 PM
Hey Jim,
Thanks for the info. RE: OBD-I. If I did an engine swap (3.0 M), what else do I need to swap? Tranny? Differential? With the change in power, are their any compnonents on my 318, that aren't up to the task?
Thanks!!
The rest of the package should be up to snuff. I'm not changing my trans or diff right away, because then I will need a custom drive shaft, which get plenty expensive.
The pilot bushing for the trans input shaft in the engine crank must be changed to accept the larger imput shaft of the ti trans. Other than that, no problem. It bolts right up.
The diff is the weak link, but should hold up fine unless you are dumping the clutch from redline or something stupid like that. E30 M3 diff is VERY similar, but the axle shafts must be "customized" for the instalation. Not too difficult, but the E30 diff does not just "bolt right in".
Brakes are a big issue. The easiest way to solve a few problems at once is to get complete struts with springs and spindles, calipers and rotors from an M3 4-door (2-door will probably work as well) and bolt the whole mess up. This is what I'm planning to do. This way, you have the heavier springs for the weight increase, as well as the brakes. AND, it all bolts in!
ayton
05-03-2002, 05:36 PM
the diff isn't really a problem I know a few people with M3/ti swap and they have used the stock differential with no problems.
You can use either motor, but if you go with the later motor, you will have to change everything on the motor (fuel injectors, etc.) to work with OBD-I.
There is a vague aurticle in Bimmer magazine, I think it was August of 1998, where this type of swap was done (OBD-II motor into 1995 OBD-I ti) UUC Motorworks did the swap, I think.
Ralliart
05-03-2002, 07:51 PM
What about using an older motor out of a 325. That way its still OBD1 and less expensive than an M3. This is a route that I was thinking about.
I don't see why that would not work. Get EVERYTHING with the motor. That's the key, because you have to change everything, and finding it piece by piece will cost a fortune.
BUT, what was the output of the 325/328? Not much over 200hp was it? Maybe a supercharger is the way to go.
Bolt it on in one day, and you have 200hp with no other modifications. And, at only 3k$, I would expect it to be cheaper than even a complete 325 motor (unless you already have a 325/328 donor car (make sure it's an E36 model), then the motor is cheaper. If it has miles on it, why not bore it and do some head work before installing it? That will get you REAL close to the 240hp of the 3.2.
Food for thought.
myred318i
05-03-2002, 10:26 PM
This is really turning out to be quite an informative thread!
The last comment about the supercharger, kind of got me to thinking... for the dough spent, I'm accomplishing my goal of increased horsepower, and probably not spending half as much as it would cost me to replace with the M motor. It's not like I spend any time at the track, I just want more power than my chipped 1.8 provides now.
How would the S.C. affect my engine reliability and longevity? (I'm not harsh on any of my equipment, just like to blast up thru the gears occasionally)
Speaking of longevity, how long do most people expect their 1.8's to hold up? I've got close to 90K, and it seems to run just perfect. I had a BMW techie tell me that as long as I maintained the car and burned premium gas, I should get 175K no problem. Honestly, I expect 200-250. Is that realistic? Would you SC an engine with >100K miles?
I appreciate your input?
Ralliart
05-03-2002, 10:27 PM
My problem is that I need a new trans. If I can find a 325 in a junk yard then I could possibly pull the whole engine and tranny.
I would expect in the neighborhood of 200k from a well maintained BMW engine. Good maintaince leeds to longevity. And, don't go by the idiot lights on the dash for oil changes, I change mine myself in between every dealer oil change, and a filter change between each of those wouldn't hurt either. (my first oil change was at 750miles, and the dealer thought I was NUTS) The oil just gets dirty, it doesn't wear out. Keep it clean, and it will act as a lubricant, rather than valve lapping paste, grinding away your engine.
Hey, don't forget the transmission and differential. I change both every 25k.
The car wil literally last forever if properly maintained. BMW has excellent support, so there is NO REASON not to care for the car.
The D/A supercharger has a 100k warranty on it. What more could you ask for??? In one day you will have a serious boost in the HP/Weight ratio.
The ti is about 400lb. lighter than the "average" M3. you don't need 220hp to play with the "big boys" in a ti. That's what makes the ti so great. It does not get a second glance at a stop light, but I'd almost bet it would keep up with a sacked-out auto-trans convertable... NOW add the blower, and things start to get interesting.
There are two ways to go fast: High horse-power, or light weight. Put them both together, and you go hunting for 911 turbo carrera's... http://www.happytogether.com/318ti/forum/smile.gif http://www.happytogether.com/318ti/forum/smile.gif
If you happen to be looking for a 325 or 328 motor (complete) try talking to Bob Alan at Bimmers South. (800-350-8986) Tell him I sent you to him.
He dismantles and inventories all the cars he gets in. No cars in an oil-mud mess. Decent pricing as well. Nice guy to boot. Let him know what you plan to do, and he should be able to bundle a package for you at a good price.
If you change the transmission (unless the 325/328 trans is the same as the ti) you will need a custom drive shaft, from what I've been told. Keep that in mind, because they can get up to $500.00
DougZ
05-04-2002, 01:34 AM
Anyone interested in doing this swap should know that it is laid out in Bimmer Magazine issue #9, August 1999. You can order the back issues of this magazine by calling the following phone number: 415-382-0580.
Their address is PO Box 1529, Ross, CA 94957
Jim: Not to sound mean, but the purpose of the boards like this is to share information, not to charge your fellow BMW enthusiasts for it. If people wanted to be charged, they could go to a professional.
1996 328ti
05-04-2002, 01:40 AM
I have a 1996 328ti and love it.
I do wish I had a little more power but those times are only at the track when I'm trying to pass a Turbo P-car. Otherwise the 2.8 is perfect. An aluminum 2.8 would be better.
Changing the tranny will require a driveshaft.
You will need to keep you eye on the diff for leaks. Mine needed seals.
An issue will be the exhaust. A 2.8, 3.0 and 3.3 all have twin cats. Any exhaust will be custom.
I have 325/328 rotors which simply mean they are vented in the front. I have no problem slowing down from 115mph. Plus I have more choices of wheels to choose from. Wouldn't be the same case if I had M3 brakes.
To doug:
Take it easy!!!
Like I said, I'm not trying to get rich, but why should I NOT charge for my hard work and research? I COULD just keep my mouth shut and wait for people to come to me for it, if they knew I had it... If you had invested thousands of dollars and (probably more)hours into a project wouldn't you want to get at least a portion of your investment back?
By the way, I already told everyone about that Bimmer aurticle (see above- I was not sure of the particular issue). That is an OBD-I swap. They are dime-a-dozen. If you just want it to work, and don't care about correctness (for a race car application for example), go for it. That is NOT how I do things. I do not "cut corners" and I will not settle for second-best, BUT, at the same time I WILL not throw money away. This is why I do so much research.
I obtained a correct year motor (after exhaustive search) so the job is not just functional, but correct. AND, for all you California people, don't get cought with an older motor in your car.
And, by the way, who said I'm not a "professional", anyway? Are you a professional?
Details included in the document will include even the small stuff, such as which tools were used to make the job fastest etc. If you don't want it, DON'T ORDER IT. If you know of another sorce for this document, I'M interested in it, let me know where to get it, and I'll GLADLY pay for this information!!!
I'm creating it because I cannot locate a single sorce of information on this particular swap (I find tons of info on the OBD-I swap). Like I said, I welcome usefull information, but criticism and mockery are not welcome. I have not withheld any information that cannot be obtained elsewhere. I also welcome any information you or any other reader may have!
And, by the way everyone, Supersprint makes an exhaust for this particular application, for around $500-$600, so you don't have to make a custom exhaust. I was planning to modify a M3 exhaust (and detail the procedure in my document) to keep it "factory" looking, but based on the ease of just "bolting it in" I may go the Supersprint route myself. And, maybe not.
Have fun!
Well, this thread has died off...
I received some new information on the Supersprint exhaust listed above. It may not work. Someone e-mailed me and said the 325 has one cat, while the 328/M3 have 2, which obviously changes the exhaust length a bit. I cannot get a definite answer as to weather this will work with a 3.2 or not. It seems reasonable to be true that it will not. If you are considering this exhaust (as I am), be fore-warned. If you can confirm the fitment of this exhaust, please do so here for everyone.
Now, on to fun stuff! There is a new web site under construction right now for owners and fans of ti's with 6 (or more I guess) cylinder engines installed. Here's the address: http://www.benliaw.com/compact6/
As you can see, it's Ben's latest creation. Not working yet, but keep checking back. I'll be there soon. Maybe my swap will be fully documented there....
By the way, my engine should arrive in my shop next week sometime! I'm STOKED for this swap. http://www.happytogether.com/318ti/forum/smile.gif http://www.happytogether.com/318ti/forum/smile.gif http://www.happytogether.com/318ti/forum/smile.gif http://www.happytogether.com/318ti/forum/smile.gif http://www.happytogether.com/318ti/forum/smile.gif http://www.happytogether.com/318ti/forum/smile.gif
J Propane
05-23-2002, 06:02 AM
You might want to try a European 323ti exhaust, part number 18 101 709 100. Not sure how much custom work it requires, as the catalytic part number is different on the M3.
myred318i
05-27-2002, 10:34 PM
So Jim..... What's the latest with your swap? Is it done,.. in progress... still waiting on parts? I'm interested in knowing how it goes for you. Pix would be a major plus!!!! Good Luck!!
DuCtTaPe318ti
05-29-2002, 06:41 AM
Hey all, this is Bruce I just signed up on the board. I have another post on the supercharger thread, but I was just curious to know about how much an engine swap runs. I know it depends on the car, engine, etc. But I am looking to make some power upgrades to my '95 ti and an engine swap (325, 328, or M3...i wish) had crossed my mind. I noticed a website www.racemarque.com (http://www.racemarque.com) that had a ti with a '95 2.5 liter six in it. I tried to get in touch with the people at RaceMarque but they have not returned my messages. That is the type of power I am looking for but I would like to keep to some sort of budget (probably in the neighborhood of ~$5000). Any suggestions apprecated. Later. -Bruce.
Latest status of swap: Engine will be in my shop this Wednsday. I am traveling to Scotland for two weeks, so I can't start (unfortunately) right away, but as soon as possible after I return...
The engine has 5000 original miles (confirmed with carfax) so I will be checking all the seals and gaskets for dry-rot etc., adding a lightweight flywheel, and doing a full-detail job before instalation begins. I will also check that I have all the needed tools and parts to complete, because I have one week to complete the swap once I start.
I am registerred on compact6, so check back there for pictures etc. Probably should be completed by the end of the month.
I will be modifying a stock M3 exhaust for this swap. I cannot get any information on the Supersprint exhaust, so screw it. This will add some time for fabrication, but I'll drive without the tailpipes/muffler installed if I have to. I think I just have to section out about six inches or so. We'll see how it goes. Maybe a couple "cherry-bombs" after the cats....
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To Ducttape:
My engine alone was over $5,000....
I'm back from Scotland, and I've had a bit of time to evaluate the condition of the motor. No leaks, but missing a few parts. I'm trying to sort all that out in the next few weeks.
The swap should happen the week of July 22nd, if anyone cares anymore. I have already made arrangements to tow it to the dealer for re-charging the A/C and alligning the driveaway protection module with the engine management computer.
BONUS: It appears there is Dinan software in the computer. I have not confirmed this yet, but there is a warning decal on the OBD-II port. I have to crack open the box to see what's inside....
Rogue engineering has the best price I can find on the flywheel. (595.00) Anyone know of a better price???
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"Speed's just a question of money. How fast you 'wanna go?"
Next update:
The lightweight flywheel is in place. Bad news: The clutch is SMOKED. The ASS-CLOWN who owned this car DESTROYED a clutch in 5000 miles!!! The pressure plate is also in bad shape (over-heated) so, there's another $240.00... Maybe it was an old lady using the clutch pedal as a foot rest...
Good news: all seals (including rear main) are in excellent condition.
I spent last Saturday and Sunday tracing all the wires in the two engine connectors back to the ECU and confirming them against the schematic I have. I found a couple discrepencies on color codes, so be forewarned if you simply try to "match the colors" doing this swap.
I created a document which details the "pin-out" of both connectors as well. I will create the matching one for the ti this weekend. Then, all I have to do is to determine which wires will need to be moved where in the car, so the motor plugs in. (this is the kind of nightmarish crap you have to go through when you can't get a document which tells you what to do...) I have also take a few photos, but I use film, so after they are developed and scanned in, maybe I'll post some.
I have determined that the traction control will not work initially upon instalation. I will have to change (add) some of the wiring from the ECU to the ASC computer, and replace the ASC with one from an M3. This sucks, but not the end of the world. I may simply change the entire wiring harness later... Or possibly say screw it and go without traction control.
I also got the M3 instrument cluster I needed. For those of you wanting to install this cluster in your ti, be warned: the tach will not read correctly. It will work correctly with a six cylinder engine. (even if it's not the "M" motor) The ti one will not read correctly with a six either.
That's it for now. I'm trying to get a better price on all the "little" parts to complete the swap. I'm looking at !!$985.40!! at this point for "little parts". Hopefully, I can do better...
Keep watching...
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"Speed's just a question of money. How fast you 'wanna go?"
ayton
07-10-2002, 03:40 PM
http://www.happytogether.com/318ti/forum/smile.gif
1996 328ti
07-11-2002, 03:23 AM
Let me know what you do for an exhaust.
I need to take care of that this winter.
Off to Ofest. http://www.happytogether.com/318ti/forum/smile.gif
mazeman
07-11-2002, 08:26 AM
Jim, you lost me on...
"I also got the M3 instrument cluster I needed. For those of you wanting to install this cluster in your ti, be warned: the tach will not read correctly. It will work correctly with a six cylinder engine. (even if it's not the "M" motor) The ti one will not read correctly with a six either."
So.. the tach "will not read correctly" but "will work correctly with a six-cylinder" ? How many cylinders is the engine you are installing?
And.. what was your ODBII argument? ODBII was a new standard in emissions control, that's why the ODBI makes like 25hp more. Are you a tree hugger? a ti to m3 engine is going to have alot more emissions, a ti to m3 odb1 is not going to make that much more you know, and it seems like a lot less headache. I mean the point of the game is horsepower anyway right? Just trying to figure out why you'd go through all that...
-Jason
96' ti
Any four cilinder BMW cluster will read significantly high when used with a six.
Any six cilinder cluster will read correctly (323, 325, 328 M3 M-Coupe` M-Roadster)
The reason for the OBD-II swap is that the car must be "correct" in that all the parts and modifications will be with FACTORY parts, which were available in 1998 (the production year of the car).
As far as the horsepower discrepency, I have not been sufficiently convinced of the claims you are making. EITHER engine has the potential. The race 3.2's are making well over 300 without forced induction. The "as-deliverd" factory numbers are the same. Any engine can be "tuned" to within an inch of it's life, and get amazing horsepower numbers (case in point : Honda S2000). This car will be a daily driver, and WILL last over 100k miles. It is not a dedicated track car. If it was, I would get a cheap 328, gut it out and build the **** out of it. It would cost much less than this swap is costing...
No, I'm not a "tree-hugger". I simply do things correctly, which is not always the easiest way to do things. If you want to do an OBD-I swap, by all means do so. There is tons of information on that swap, because it's easier, and the dealer does not have to be involved in the swap. If I had a 1995 ti, I would not be talking to you right now.
I also like the factory installed "driveaway protection" as I HATE noisy alarms that everyone ignores anyway. I still get the insurance discount...
So, yes, it's about horsepower. But the 1998 M3 was still a formitable weapon. And even if I did not change the flywheel and upgrade the software, install the euro air-box with the "ram-air" kit, it's still about 400 pounds lighter than a stock M3. That's where it all comes together. Against an M3 with all the same mods, I would STILL have a decisive edge, due to the higher HP:weight ratio. The numerically higher differential gears also launch the lighter ti faster as well.
There's two ways to go fast : high horse power, or low weight. Combine them and...
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"Speed's just a question of money. How fast you 'wanna go?"
myred318i
07-11-2002, 03:21 PM
Jim's objectives on this project are well documented to this point, (OBD II v. OBD I). I'm really anxious to hear about the final product, and what his d'ruthers are if he had to do it over again... in other words, would you repeat again or sell your car and take the proceeds along with the $$ you spent on the swap and just buy an M3? I'm sure there is some satisfaction in building a "332ti", not to mention the added benefit of better power/weight ratio of the ti car.
Anyway... Jim I appreciate you keeping us updated on your progress, as it shows how much time, effort, and planning really goes into a project like this. I'll be curious about how long it takes when you actually park the car... tear it down, and have it back on the street again.. reinCARnated (sorry, bad joke)
And by all means... Please take many many pics, before, during, and after. I wanna see them!!!
Well, as far as time goes, I've seen an OBD-I swap done in one weekend...
I'm starting on the 20th around 10:00am, and have until 6:00pm the 28th to be completely done with the project, and my hands washed. This is why there is so much research and planning. I can't simply park the car and wait for all the bugs to "shake-out". (in spite of the fact that I have two other cars...) It has to be a done deal in one week. The first drive will be Sunday evening, about 175 miles back to Long Island for work. Not much room for error here...
Costs so far are over $7300.00 (this does not include the original car or special tools). There will be no labor cost attached to this job once the final total is calculated. Anyone interested in NOT doing it themselves should keep this in mind.
I have seen '95 E36 M3's for under 20k. So, an M3 would most likely be cheaper when it's all said and done. I've got my eye out for an original (unmolested) E36 M3 lightweight. Trouble is, they top 30k. So, in the mean time, I'll have nearly the same level of performance in a less conspicuous package, that I can actually drive and enjoy, rather than simply admiring in my garage...
...Hondas beware...
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"Speed's just a question of money. How fast you 'wanna go?"
bmwracefan
07-13-2002, 06:07 PM
Jim,
My nephew and I put a NEW 3.2 in a '95. (yea, bass ackwards) He wanted something different. The EWS system did present a problem. Had to do a fuel pump work around. Have you solved the EWS / DME incompatability? BTW the way, we stayed with the stock diff. as it is much lighter that the E36 and had the 3.45 ratio. Dropping the clutch at 3500 doesn't hurt the diff., but it exploded the output shafts. (Trust me, don't let your neighbor drive your 332ti. He was the clutch dropper). Too busy to do a write up as I'm doing a complete overhaul on my '99 ti to a track car, but you can see som pic's at http://www.bmwracefan.com/index.html .
It's the black one. Haven't even had time to add the rest of the pics for my '99.
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Dave
I think you are right. He should have got a complete wiring harness and ECU from a 1995. it would have been MUCH easier (and this is what I would have done if that was MY car)
Anyway, the car will have to go to the dealer for module allignment for the EWS/DME. This is the only way around it.
My car is a 1998 (same as my engine), so I don't forsee any other "hardware" issues.
I am planning to exchange the entire rear suspension/brakes with that from an M roadster/Coupe`, which will include the differential and half-shafts. I want to keep the ti gear ratio, or perhaps a bit lower (numerically higher). For now, it will stay as-is. (I'm broke!!)
No one else will drive the car. I may be crazy, but I'm not dumb...
By the way, if you want to easily smoke the tires, replace the flywheel with a lighter weight one. Dumping the clutch is not good in any case. He could have easily blown up the tranny rather than the half-shaft...
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"Speed's just a question of money. How fast you 'wanna go?"
OK everyone, it's done!!!
This is one SICK car! I can see why the factory did not build it...
I still have a few details to work out, since the motor is from an M Roadster, the A/C compressor is different than the M3. That should be fixed up this week.
It runs like a top! Just putting around town, you'd never guess there were 250hp under the hood (thanks to Dinan software which came with the motor and a lightweight flywheel), it's a total sleeper! (Hondas beware!!)
No way to make the traction control work in the near future. Just have to keep smoking those Michelins...
More updates as they happen....
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"Speed's just a question of money. How fast you 'wanna go?"
myred318i
08-06-2002, 07:57 PM
I WANT PICS!!! .... please..
I have to scan them in. I have a roll from the instalation, but a lot of underhood details (mainly with the wiring) have changed since they were shot. I'll have to get some new ones.
Not much to see. The real detail photos are reserved for my instruction packet...
Pop the hood of an M3. That's what it looks like, with a battery in the ti location! A couple of primer marks on the right strut tower from removing the coil pack mounts are the only clue...
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"Speed's just a question of money. How fast you 'wanna go?"
X-nobody
08-09-2002, 10:35 AM
DougZ,
any places to get the Bimmer Mag online? (i.e. scans) would save me the hassle of ordering and waiting..
I'm looking to do the M3 swap too..
but the OBD-I VS II thing problems are bugging me too.. Found some 95 and 96 318ti..
I think for the simplicity and ease the 95 OBD-I is the way to go.. ?
where's all this great OBD-I info..
I find nothing but bits an pieces..
no full solid how to out there?
I had the same problem. The OBD-I swap is the way to go, if all you care about is going fast. There is more info on that than the OBD-II (I think I'm the only person with that information, but it does not seem likely)...
I had a HELL of a time getting info for the OBD-II swap. EVERYONE has done the OBD-I swap. A friend of mine has a 330ti: 1995 obd-I motor, wiring and ECU in a 1997 ti. It was just made into an OBD-I car.
Bottom line: if you don't have a car yet, get a 1995. Get either motor (3.0 or 3.2) but get the 1995 3.0 wiring harness and ECU complete from the donor M3. The OBD-I swap is much easier (and you won't need to tow it to the dealer when it's all done).
There are details (not many) in the Bimmer write-up (I have the original Mag.). It's a fun thing to read, but I'm not sure how much use it will be. If you go with the 3.2l motor and 3.0l wiring, it's usefull, because they give some helpfull tricks with the wiring harness and oil dip-stick mount. If you stick with the 3.0l motor and wiring, I don't think you need the magazine's info. I ran into a few fairly major problems along the way that I did not hear about from anyone I spoke to (except for a small mention from Ben Liaw). The use of the M3 transmission may eliminate this problem, and it may not. I kept the ti 'tranny in my car to lower cost a bit.
It's not impossible (obviously), but it's not a "walk in the park" either. I have a great deal of experience doing engine swaps and fabrication, and it was helpfull, for sure...
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"Speed's just a question of money. How fast you 'wanna go?"
Latest update:
The instalation manual is now over 15 pages. I'm up to the part where the new motor is fitted to the car.
I have been traveling quite a bit for work, so I have not been able to devote the time i'd like to to it.
I will keep you posted here of the progress.
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"Speed's just a question of money. How fast you 'wanna go?"
Ralliart
10-03-2002, 05:51 PM
Hey Jim how is the install coming along. Keep us updated.
Well, it is running great. I have an issue with cold starting (more accurately "cold moving"), where after it's good and cold it shudders and bogs as you try to move. After a little while it's fine.
I had the dealer put it on the computer, and the said the running losses solonoid was disconnected (lie) and it should be fine. It still has the problem.
BMW has upgraded software for just this problem. If I have it installed (no charge) I loose my DINAN stage 1 software. So, I'm living with it for the moment. It is possible that the lower back pressure of my modified M3 exhaust vs. the more restrictive M Roadster exhaust combined with the lightweight flywheel are causing problems. The stage 1 DINAN software I have is for the Roadster, with no mods to exhaust or certinally not to flywheel weight. Stage 2 or 3 may be a better choice, but I will wait until I get the M3GT ram-air snorkel that pulls air from the brake duct, and possibly the Supersprint exhaust. This may simulate the "cone" and exhaust more closely that DINAN sells. Perhaps a K&N or other free-flowing filter as well.
Only other problem: Instrument cluster. I had a used one installed, and it is intermittent. No problem. I ordered a brand new cluster from BMW. Supposedly, the ECU does not see the new cluster at all, so it cannot be coded. Based on track record from that dealer, I'm going to bring it to a dealer here on Long Island and see if they can get it to work. So, I have no idea how much I'm exceeding the speed limit by. I AM sure I'm exceeding it. Funny thing, the lights all work. The gas gage does not, but the low fuel light does. When it comes on, I get gas. The Odometer still works too.
Little bugs, nothing major. It runs prefectly once warmed up, goes like hell, and you would never even know when it's idling at the traffic light... Perfect!
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"Speed's just a question of money. How fast you 'wanna go?"
gills
10-22-2002, 06:02 PM
jim, my name is lorenzo, and i'm new to this board. i am going to do the same swap as you. my car is a 96 ti, and i got my hands on a 99 m3 motor, trans, front suspension, ecu(motor and tranny), engine harness, all accessories on engine, insrument cluster, etc.etc. basically the whole front of the car minus the sheetmetal. i've read all the posts in this topic, and i see that you seem to know what your talking about. before i engage into this project i want to have as much info as i possibly can. i notice that you live in long island, well so do i. i am very interested in your wiring book that you are talking about. and i also would like to maybe see your car, so i can see how it all goes in. oh and what dealership have you been going to, cuz i feel like they're all sheisters sometimes. anyway, i would greatly appreciate any help, and if you feel like meeting sometime that would be great.
lorenzo
Well, I'm traveling again for work- two more weeks away- but if you want to contact me Thursday (Friday I'm gone) try 516-338-2418 (work number) and maybe we can meet somewhere around Westbury / Wantaugh area.
I actually live in CT but work in Westbury. I'm here for the week, and in CT for the weekends. I think after I get back from this trip I will have to park the ti for the winter, so see if you can get a hold of me soon. (It's already snowing in Vermont...)
Good luck with your project!
J!m
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"Speed's just a question of money. How fast you 'wanna go?"
gills
11-07-2002, 05:48 AM
Jim,
Are you back from vacation yet? let me know when and we'll meet/talk and i can get a better understanding of what exactly to do with all the wiring. If you'd be willing to come down to my house and check everything out that would be great to.
here's a link with pics from the install so far:http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=54644
I'm back, but I would not call a week in the Minnesota cold followed by a week in BORING Beaumont Texas a vacation... (I was working)
Anyway, I replied on the Compact6 site. Give me a call at the work number above, and I'll come check the progress. Since the snow is threatening, I most likely will not have the car down here again until spring...
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"Speed's just a question of money. How fast you 'wanna go?"
!!!Good News!!!
the draft of the engine swap manual is nearly complete!
I spent many hours last night and today getting it ready... I have the draft copy in my hand, and will be reviewing it, correcting making small changes...
It is currently 33 pages long, and may grow by a page or two in the final version.
I have a list of people who have expressed interest over the last six months or so, but it would be good to get another "I" from those interested. I WILL be contacting you all individually, but just to make sure I don't miss anyone, mail me again.
It should be ready for distribution before Christmas!
J!m
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"Speed's just a question of money. How fast you 'wanna go?"
The manual is done. 50 pages long in final trim.
Please contact me if you are interested in purchasing it.
Also, this past weekend I installed a complete M roadster rear sub-frame. I will be doing a similar (but much smaller) booklet on this job as well. I will keep you all posted as to the progress of that.
This coming weekend, I will be installing a complete M3 front suspension, with M3 EURO springs. That should be fun. Again, another booklet in the future.
Just wanted to keep everyone informed. I've been travelling a lot, and have not had time to visit the site before now.
hope to see you all at ti fest!
J!m
Ralliart
03-12-2003, 05:29 PM
How much are you asking for the writeup?
It is $50.00, + $5.00 for printing/binding, + actual shipping to your address (at any speed you desire).
Anyone interested, please e-mail me directly with your shipping address, and I will calculate actual total cost for you.
PayPal is the fastest and easiest way to complete the transaction, but bank check/postal money order is also accepted. In all cases, document ships upon receipt of payment, naturally. A tracking number is provided.
E-mail me at jim.leach@sulzer.com
Thanks to all those interested. :D
Hey, everyone.
I think I'm going to have a couple manuals made up to bring to RogueFest this Saturday.
If anyone wants one, I will be selling them for $50.00 even- no print fee and no shipping (obviously). Thes are for pick-up at the show only, and once the few I bring are gone, that's it.
If you know you are going, and are interested, I will make one up for you and 'hold' it. IF you don't show, your's is the last copy and someone is there with a $50.00 bill, it will be sold.
Hope to see everyone there!
Just an update, as I have been quite busy with work and preparing my new Land Rover for Africa 2005 (www.drivetheglobe.com)...
No rear sub-frame booklet, and no front suspension booklet are planned at this point. If you would like assistance, you can stop by or call me.
The books are good (all receipents have been quite pleased with them) but the time and effort that goes into them is quite large. I unfortunately do not have the time to produce them any longer.
To anyone who has been waiting patiently for these new booklets, please accept my apologies, and know that the ti will continue to evolve (but presently all my time and money is accounted for...)
J!m
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