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Fred Hamilton
02-21-2002, 12:05 PM
I have a 1997 Black Active which is garage kept at home and at work. A few weeks back, while on a WalMart trek, I got nailed on the hood by a bird with a real digestive problem. When I returned to work, I took some mild soap and tried to gently wash off the offending dukie but it left a blemish on the surface about the size of a half dollar. When I got home, I washed the entire car and tried to remove the mark with some Zymol but the bird's calling card wasn't coming off. I finally reverted to the buffer (I know, bad idea) but it was the only way I could think of to remove the scar. I now have some light swirl marks that go away with a coat of Zymol but come back fairly quickly.

Any ideas/suggestions about a longer lasting fix for the swirl marks?

Also, suggestions about how to repair such blemishes the next time my flying friends come calling would be greatly appreciated. Thanks and Happy Driving!

ayton
02-21-2002, 12:40 PM
it may seem extreme but have the car profeesionally detailed (exterior) $85-100 bucks ....then you have someone to blame. besides they can get the swirl maks out,permanently! I guess you were pretty heavy handed with that buffer ...is it a random orbital? if not that was your first mistake...

Fred Hamilton
02-21-2002, 07:50 PM
It is a random orbital buffer but even so, I've heard you have to be sooo careful with those things, especially on black. I tried to go lightly but I guess in my zeal to remove the blemish, I did go a little too heavy.

Has anyone found anything better than the Zymol Carbon for black finishes?

J!m
05-09-2002, 10:33 PM
I use the meguire's (sp) carnuaba wax on red, which any body man will tell you is almost as bad as black....

3M makes some very good products for removing swirl marks. They are called (oodly enough) swirl mark removers. They say you can use a power buffer, but I always do it by hand if needed.

Also, did you have a BRAND NEW pad on your buffer? Even using the same material on it all the time (same grade of buffing compound for instance), as it dries, it forms larger crystals that can and do cause scratches larger than the size of the abrasive in the original product. Try sheepskin pads, as it tends to release contaminants, and wash it in soapy water and rinse it well after every use. Then have a different pad for each grade of compound, even if you wash them. Put them in a plastic bag, off the buffer to prevent contamination.


Here's my regimen: Wash car with dish soap (strip all old wax), dry with chamois, apply Meguire's "mirror glaze" brand show car glaze with your water-softened hand. (make sure to take the Rolex off, or you will be sorry) Rub it in well, over lapping swirls..... Let it dry to a hase, wipe down with clean, dry terry cloth, apply Meguire's carnauba wax (yellow wax) with slightly damp terry cloth, wipe with dry terry cloth, re-apply if desired.

I sound like an ad for Meguires, but I used to make custom guitars, and if you have ever seen the finish on a hand made guitar, you will believe I know what I'm talking about. This treatment is better than the orange-peely BMW paint job deserves.

This SHOULD be bird-**** proof, and the car will look freshly painted when you finish. That yellow wax is a bitch to buff off, but it wears like IRON. it's all I use on my car.

have fun!

Any further questions or clarifications, e-mail at jim.leach@sulzer.com

J!m
04-21-2003, 05:35 PM
OK, so I DID only use the Meguire's yellow wax on my car.

I've converted to the Blitz wax. WAY better shine. Highly recommended