Window Regulator Replacement

[Coop540iT]

CoolJess76 has a great thread on a permanent window fix. I used his thread when my driver’s side power window failed last year. However my window regulator was too bent and even after straightening it out, the C clips kept popping off so it was time to replace the window regulator. The following is a short tutorial on how to replace just the window regulator.

For this job you will need a new window regulator part # 51-33-1-977-609-M9 (Left) or 51-33-1-977-610-M9 (Right), ¼ inch drill bit, a T-30 Torx bit or wrench, 4 - M6 hex head bolts with corresponding washers & nuts. In addition you’ll also need the other tools needed for steps 1 – 7 of CoolJess76’s permanent window fix tutorial.

Before removing the regulator, follow steps 1 through 7 as outlined in THIS WRITEUP (http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20666)

Even though it is stated in the above referenced thread it bears repeating the following:

WARNING!!!
If you have side-impact air bags, DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY and wait approximately 30 minutes before starting this procedure. DO NOT reconnect the battery while the airbag is disconnected as this will trigger an SRS light that requires a special tool to reset. To avoid death, serious injury, or damage to the vehicle, NEVER work in the vicinity of an un-deployed airbag. Only after the airbag is completely removed and placed in a safe location away from you and the vehicle, is it safe to perform work on that part of the vehicle. While my intentions are to save you guys money by fixing your own cars, the last thing I want is for someone to get hurt. Let's stay safe guys, your health isn't worth saving a couple bucks!


1. Disconnect the 2 plugs connected to the window (flat) motor.
2. Drill out the 4 rivets (see 4 blue arrows) using the ¼ inch drill bit.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_P1JWr5RQ9HQ/S8TeRo6M-FI/AAAAAAAABRo/gGiDb-aDK40/s640/DSC02005-GrindRivets.png
3. Remove the single (10mm) bolt holding the window regulator to the door (lower left side drivers side, lower right on the passenger side).
4. The window regulator (and motor) should now be free.
5. Vacuum out the drill borings in and around the door.
6. Remove the motor from the old window regulator using the T-30 Torx bit or wrench.
7. NOTE: Be sure to replace the (plastic or metal) circular sleeve where the motor attaches to the new window regulator (see the single blue arrow) before attaching the motor to the new window regulator.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_P1JWr5RQ9HQ/S8Zt8KUscCI/AAAAAAAABSI/wVgHs_hHh-w/s640/DSC02006%20ReplaceSleeve.jpg
8. Apply some fresh grease to the motor spindle and attach the window motor to the new window regulator (see 3 green arrows in photo above) Tightening torque is 5 NM.
9. Reattach the window regulator to the door with the 4 – M6 hex head bolts, washers & nuts (see 4 blue arrows) and the one pre-existing 10mm bolt. Tightening torque is 9 NM.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_P1JWr5RQ9HQ/S8Zt8_5wEsI/AAAAAAAABSM/uLjRRQAjD8E/s640/DSC02007%20Installed.jpg
10. Reattach the lift arms to the plastic sliders and test. If after following steps 10e & 10f in the permanent window fix tutorial every thing looks good, install your C clips and put everything back together.

I hope this helps. If you have any questions or you think I left something out, please let me know. Thanks to CoolJess76 for his permanent window fix write up as he has done the bulk of the work in that tutorial!

[msatrakkoic]

So the motor can indeed be taken off by just unscrewing those two screws? I thought it might be put on there permanently. I have to change the window regulator because the circular slider broke. Initially I though I could just replace it, but found that it was impossible to take off. I feared this might be the case with the motor too.

[1996 328ti]

When I replaced the M6 hex bolts they hit the regulator so I reversed then. Nut facing the interior.

The window is not going up and down straight.
As I get towards the top it appears to be coming away from the track.
The window is positioned in the left and right guides.

[osu_ti]

Good article. I went through this yesterday. A couple of notes for others:

1. The rivets were difficult to drill out because there wasn't a good way to keep the drill centered. I used an oversized bit (about the size of the outer diameter of the rivet) to drill the rivet down slightly until it was dished and a smaller bit could be used to make a pilot hole. After making a pilot hole, I went back to the larger bit until the rivet came apart. I used needle nosed vise grips on the back of the rivets to keep them from rotating while drilling.

2. Make sure you adjust the regulator after installation. Adjusting the arm with the slotted hole will help keep the window aligned while it travels.

[Manan^BMW]

This is very helpful. However, is 'permanent' solution a bit misleading? Or there is no possibility, after this solution, of the regulator bending henceforth?


Also, can someone please point me to a quality regulator?


Thanks much in advance

[LouM...]

I just completed a repair of my driver's side window. The forward plastic clip had broken and the window fell. The regulator had been replaced by the PO.
One thing that I noticed after putting it all together was that the bolts, although short, do need to be installed from the inside out. This was mentioned previously in another post. But it never hurts to re-emphasize this as it may save you another opportunity to get into that door as it seems we all like to do :biggrin:. And I think that this was the cause of my window failure.
After replacing the plastic clips and adjusting the arms, I was hearing a thump and seeing the inside door panel move out a bit during my final test.
Looking inside while electrically moving the window up and down I could see the forward arm just barely touching one of the bolts. After reversing the bolt I see about 3/16 inch clearance as the forward arm passes the bolt head. Some kind of a round head Torx or Allen bolt would be even better in this case.
I think that the arms naturally bow a bit going up. Also, the original rivets may be a lot shorter than the bolts.
Working on this car is a lot easier than working on my other BMW.
LouM...