1997 bmw 318ti fuel door won't lock....help!

[bataanboy]

I just found out that my fuel door lock won't lock. I can pull the niddle out but when I try to lock it again, the needle won't stick out. I hope somebody can help me on this.... thanks!:smile:

[cooljess76]

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=CG73&mospid=47506&btnr=41_0859&hg=41&fg=25

p/n: 67116987627

[zoner]

Was the locking door only for later model cars? My '95 has no such provision...

[3.2TI]

Humm, interesting my 99 does not have fuel door lock.

[cooljess76]

realoem has the actuator listed for models equipped with M42's and M44's as well as early model 318's and 325's, so I know it was available on earlier models. Are you guys sure your cars don't have them? It's part of the central locking system, perhaps yours are just broken. It's a little pin that extends from the top left corner of the fuel access compartment. Here's what it looks like:
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q122/cooljess76/fueldoor.jpg

[3.2TI]

Where would I find the lever that pulls this door, if I had it?

[cooljess76]

Where would I find the lever that pulls this door, if I had it?

There's no real lever, it actuates with the door locks as it's part of the central locking system. There's a little thin cord located in the cargo area to manually release it in the event your battery dies or the central locking system malfunctions. The cord is located on the carpet up against the passenger's side bulkhead above the oil/tool cubby.

[3.2TI]

Ok, I must be blind and obviously only using it when I have had the doors unlocked I may be overlooking this little thing. I will look tomorrow because it's F'n Cold outside.

[bataanboy]

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=CG73&mospid=47506&btnr=41_0859&hg=41&fg=25

p/n: 67116987627

Thank you bro, actually further reading all the blogs about 318ti I found out that my new installed alarm was kind of mess up because when I lock that the doors, the fuel door was not included and when I stick it in my key to the door and turn it (clockwise) it will lock my fuel door. I guess I need to go back to the shop and complain about this. It should be, all doors are lock once I press the remote "lock"! thanks again!:smile:

[cooljess76]

No worries man, hope you get everything sorted out.

[bataanboy]

Hey, have you read the blog about front spoiler lip??. We can install the spoiler lip from Jetta MK111. It looks good. I went out while ago to the yard and I found one, so I clean it up and will install hopefully within this week.

[cooljess76]

Hey, have you read the blog about front spoiler lip??. We can install the spoiler lip from Jetta MK111. It looks good. I went out while ago to the yard and I found one, so I clean it up and will install hopefully within this week.Yeah, I remember member "Wasabinuki" had one installed on his Hellrot ti. It looked really clean, check it out here:
http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=12505

but my favorite lip for non-M bumpers is the Zender lip. Here it is installed on Marcus2116's car:
http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=15190

^^^He has an M bumper on his car now. He was selling his Zender lip a while back:
http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=28918

3.2TI, I took some pictures of the fuel door release cord in the cargo area for you:

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q122/cooljess76/CIMG4896.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q122/cooljess76/CIMG4897.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q122/cooljess76/CIMG4898.jpg

[zoner]

You're right, Jess- the pin is there. I guess mine isn't working either because it doesn't actuate when I lock the doors (I can still open the fuel door). I imagine that it is easy to get to once you pull the rear panel. Funny, because I just noticed the fuel release cord a few weeks ago and just thought it was for some option my car didn't have or for some other application (I guess I wasn't overly curious that day...)

Looks like I have something else to add to my 'parts needed' list. :wink:

[cooljess76]

You're right, Jess- the pin is there. I guess mine isn't working either because it doesn't actuate when I lock the doors (I can still open the fuel door). I imagine that it is easy to get to once you pull the rear panel. Funny, because I just noticed the fuel release cord a few weeks ago and just thought it was for some option my car didn't have or for some other application (I guess I wasn't overly curious that day...)

Looks like I have something else to add to my 'parts needed' list. :wink:To be perfectly honest, it really doesn't do much. The thing is so flimsy, if somebody really wants to steal your gas, they're gonna steal your gas. It's just a matter of if they're willing to mess up your car doing so.

[3.2TI]

I found mine and it does work but my now my passenger door lock is not locking unless I unlock the door like 3 times.

[zoner]

To be perfectly honest, it really doesn't do much. The thing is so flimsy, if somebody really wants to steal your gas, they're gonna steal your gas. It's just a matter of if they're willing to mess up your car doing so.

No, you're right- it's a pretty flimsy pin and I could still pull the door open with the pin in place if I wanted to, but I'm generally of the mindset that if it's there, and it doesn't work/function correctly, then it NEEDS TO BE FIXED!

[cooljess76]

I found mine and it does work but my now my passenger door lock is not locking unless I unlock the door like 3 times.I'd part it out asap:tongue:

That's a weird one. Since the door lock is actuating, I'd suspect that the actuator rod might have come loose and/or is binding somewhere behind the door panel? I remember fixing a SoCal members door lock where the door lock actuator itself had actually came loose and was hanging freely inside of the door. I just retrieved the screws from the bottom of the door and tightened it back down.

If you decide to remove the door panel, be very careful. The plastic door clip mounts are glued onto the door panel with a very weak glue. The mounts are not available individually, so if any of them pull off of the door panel, they'll need to be re-glued. I recommend JBweld. Also, if I'm not mistaken, your car is equipped with side impact air bags. Disconnect the battery and wait a few minutes before disconnecting the airbag. Then reconnect the battery ONLY AFTER the airbag is reconnected and installed. In addition to the 10 plastic clips, there's 2 torx screws holding the door panel on. The torx screws are located on the top and bottom of the door "pull" handle. Not the lever, the actual handle that you grab to close the door. One screw is accessed from underneath the handle, the other is accessed by removing the little trim plate opposite of the mirror switch on the other door.

Hope that helps, best of luck to ya.

[3.2TI]

Do you have any pictures on the panel removal, I have done it before but many many years ago.

[cooljess76]

Do you have any pictures on the panel removal, I have done it before but many many years ago.
Write up:
http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=7801

Pics:
http://www.318ti.org/gallery/showgallery.php?cat=557

Just make sure that you disconnect the battery BEFORE unplugging the airbag and only reconnect the battery AFTER the airbag is plugged back in. Failure to do so WILL result in an SRS light that can only be reset with a SRS reset tool. It's also really dangerous, so a good rule of thumb is to always disconnect the battery when you're messing around with airbags. Once the airbag is removed, place it face-up somewhere out of harms way. If you place it face down, it becomes a missle hazzard.

I used to work with explosives and ballistic devices on ejection seats, canopy jettison and egress systems for the Navy. I know how dangerous this stuff can be. SRS stands for serious business:wink:

BTW, I know there's videos of people sitting on airbags and stuff. Not that that's a safe thing to do, but it's usually in an open space and their ass is taking the impact. Now imagine working under the dash or in a tight space and having an airbag deploy in your face. It'll break your neck if not kill you:yikes:

[bataanboy]

Guys,
I went back to the shop today and was told that it probably mechanically actuate. He did called the tech support for the alarms and they said that they never had any problem with it or nobody says anything until now... anyway, jess is right. If someone wants to steal your gas, they will do so...

Guys, I got a question for you... I found a leak at the bottom of tranny, have you had this issue before? if it is, what parts did you replace to stop the leak?? like seal, oring etc...

[bataanboy]

Fellas,
I took this pictures while ago. I noticed this wire connection when I'm installing my headlight bulb. Can anyone identify this?? This connection is located in the hood besides windshield wiper fluid. Please let me know.

thanks,
bataanboy:smile:

[cooljess76]

^^^That's the ambient temp sensor. It tells your door locks, and washer nozzles to heat up when it senses freezing temperatures. It should plug into a hole in one of the brake ducts on the front bumper.

As for the leak on the transmission, you need to figure out if it's brake fluid, transmission fluid or oil. If it's brake fluid, your clutch slave cylinder is leaking. If it's transmission fluid, your transmission is leaking. And if it's oil, then your rear crank seal is leaking. It's also possible that your oil filter housing may be leaking and oil may have got carried back and splashed onto the transmission. It happened on my clubsport. Check your oil filter housing where it mounts to the engine block.

[bataanboy]

I got you, cooljess. But there's 2 connectors in there. what about the other one?

[cooljess76]

Looks like the factory alarm siren connector.

[wolferj-RIP]

I got you, cooljess. But there's 2 connectors in there. what about the other one?

Looks like the factory alarm siren connector.

Jesse is right, that's the plug for the alarm siren which would be mounted next to the washer fluid canister.