Help please!! Bad start-up, car dies if i hit the gas, and has no power

[planksta]

alright its really scaring me:confused:, my ti is having a serious problem starting up, i have to turn the key and let it crank for like a minute or two before the car turns over, and then when it starts the whole car like shakes and the rpms are super low and then the car just dies, then i will crank it again and it will start then die, and if i so much as tap the gas the car dies, once its finnaly started i have to let it sit for a good 5-10 mins before i can get going, and it feels like it has no power i mean it is running really slow, it takes me forever to get going and it always feels really boggy and weak and when i hit the gas there is somewhat of a delay, i have no clue, i do know that my exhaust is pretty rusted and looks like it needs replaced but im not sure, can anyone help me please:help:

[cooljess76]

Is the oil cap securely fastened? Possible cracked intake boot?

[planksta]

I will check the oil cap, and i just replaced the boot yesterday and it did not change it, i think it has to do with my mass air flow also but i do not know what it could be

[familytruckster]

Could be something as benign as a fuel filter. Could be the crankcase vent hose also.

[planksta]

I replaced the fuel filter about a month ago cause i thought that, i also replaced the fuel pump since it needed a new one but neither fixed it, not sure of the crankcase vent hose, could you enlighten me on this please, thanks
-zach

[familytruckster]

Big black hose that goes from the valve cover to the crankcase valve on the intake manifold near the brake booster. The crankcase valve could also be the problem. If you pull the oil cap off while the car is running and it's sucking air in, the ccv needs replacing. Also causes horrible idle.

[BimmerBum]

Scan it if you have a scan tool.

I would start with the mass air meter. Unplug it and try starting it.

[planksta]

Oh alright i will check the hose and is there any way to test the valve? I will see if the ccv is sucking in air, i think im going to need a new ccv either way that thing along with my exhaust is pretty beat up and it spits out alot of moisture or fuel im not sure which but its pretty rusted out
-zach

[planksta]

where do i look to find the mass air meter so that i can unplug it?

[BimmerBum]

where do i look to find the mass air meter so that i can unplug it?

Right after the air box... what year is your car?

[planksta]

alright thanks, and its a 06/1995

[BimmerBum]

Let me know what happens when you unplug that and try starting it.

[planksta]

well do, thanks
-zach

[Ralliart10]

alternator?

[planksta]

alternator?
what are your thoughts on the alternator?

[planksta]

After running the car for a while i tried unplugging the mass air meter and the car did not start when it was unplugged, i then plugged it back in and it started, today though i went to start the car up this morning and it started right up i did not have to crank it at all, though it still died as soon as i hit the gas, it seemed to run a lot quicker today also, its weird:confused: sometimes it starts right up or it does what i have been talking about

[planksta]

So I finally got the starting problem figured out, it was a clogged vacuum line under the manifold, but the car still dies if I hit the gas right after start up, and it still has poor acceleration, and sometimes when I start the car the rpm's will go up to around 1500 and the car will drive like a rocket but then when I come to the first stop sign and the rpm's drop down it immediately stalls right away, its like it gets a burst of energy on start up sometimes, but any other time its just really lacking power and acceleration and it also gets terrible gas mileage, since i got rid of the starting that eliminates a lot of things so maybe you guys can shed some more knowledge on the situation, thanks
-zach

[planksta]

Bump^^ please help!!

[planksta]

buumpity bump^^:confused:

[trikzta]

my car had a similar not sayin the same but similar problem when the catalytic converter took a dump, it would stall when hit the gas but not right away, it also stalled when i stopped, wouldnt pass 15mph and sometimes it drove like a champ but yeah i changed the cat and been driving the car for the past year and half. not saying this could be your problem certainly dont want you dropping parts on the car but just posting my experience

[planksta]

my car had a similar not sayin the same but similar problem when the catalytic converter took a dump, it would stall when hit the gas but not right away, it also stalled when i stopped, wouldnt pass 15mph and sometimes it drove like a champ but yeah i changed the cat and been driving the car for the past year and half. not saying this could be your problem certainly dont want you dropping parts on the car but just posting my experience
Yea I have taken into consideration that it may be that or that its clogged, were their any other symptoms, cause mine goes more than 15mph and did it only stall right after you started it for a little? Thanks for the help this whole thing has been a real PITA cause i have been trying to figure it out for months and none of the local mechanics have a clue
-zach

[trikzta]

well the car wouldnt stall when i started but wouldnt accelerate only able to rev it while park, if i put it in gear and giive it gas it would stall right away, then one day theres a little plastic tube after the exhaust manifold that lead to the secondary air pump about 2"" long, it popped and the car ran perfect, no exhaust tho sounded like it was all headers and every time i would replace the plastic tube the car would stall but then blow it, point is that i traced my problems to a bad cat

[planksta]

So you disconnected this 2" pipe and I'm guessing it was then running without the cat and exhaust, and it ran fine then, could you send me a diagram or part number of this pipe so that I could try it, thanks
-zach

[familytruckster]

Have you replaced all of the vacuum lines? The crankcase valve?

Gotten a chance to run codes?


That tube that trixzta is talking about is not on your car. That started in 1997. Pull the front 02 sensor and see if that helps. That will reduce the backpressure. You could also have a shop check the backpressure.

[planksta]

Have you replaced all of the vacuum lines? The crankcase valve?

Gotten a chance to run codes?


That tube that trixzta is talking about is not on your car. That started in 1997. Pull the front 02 sensor and see if that helps. That will reduce the backpressure. You could also have a shop check the backpressure.
I just had all my vacuum lines cleaned out, they were all fine but their was just a clog in one of them and once I cleaned it the starting problem was resolved but I still have the power problem, and i have not gotten that valve yet because i am going to run seafoam through my brake booster line and see if it does anything, cause maybe its just clogged, but if not im going after that valve, could it be the TB maybe??
And i will pull the front one and see if that does anything and ill have the backpressure checked, maybe its the o2 sensors themselves??

[familytruckster]

Did you test it the way I mentioned? Pull the oil cap and see if air is sucked. The valve is overlooked, usually original and it causes a lot of problems.

[planksta]

Did you test it the way I mentioned? Pull the oil cap and see if air is sucked. The valve is overlooked, usually original and it causes a lot of problems.
Yea I pulled the dip stick and it started to stall and shake really bad then I put it back in and it didn't want to stall anymore, I'm guessing that means its most likely the valve then right?

[Mallard]

could be ccv, or air hose up behind block to ccv

What engine is yours planksta?

[planksta]

could be ccv, or air hose up behind block to ccv

What engine is yours planksta?
its an 06/1995 so the m42

[trikzta]

yeah the m42 doesnt have the pipe im talking about, you should def check the ccv like stated above is overlooked alot and it can cause problems like the ones you are experiencing

[planksta]

alright then, the crankase valve is next right after I seafoam her today, thanks for the help I will update after i do all of this:cool:
-zach

[planksta]

Have you replaced all of the vacuum lines? The crankcase valve?

Gotten a chance to run codes?


That tube that trixzta is talking about is not on your car. That started in 1997. Pull the front 02 sensor and see if that helps. That will reduce the backpressure. You could also have a shop check the backpressure.
I was wondering where this 02 sensor is, is it on the cat or somewhere else?? Also when i start it up and the engine is cold the rpms struggle to rise when i hit the gas and it sounds like the cat is choking, it sounds choppy, i will post a vid later of the noise

[planksta]

Hey guys, alright so i got my pcv valve and im going to replace it, i took off the crankcase hose and there is this yellow foamy oily kind of stuff in there, is this supposed to be there?? what is it?? and also that valve is a bitch to get off any tips??

[planksta]

Here are some pics of the foamy stuff im talking about

[familytruckster]

Oil? Would be expected if the valve is bad

[planksta]

Alright got the old pcv off and put the new one on you can see that the old one is all gummed up

[cooljess76]

Planksta, Take a flashight and shine it down in the valve cover through the oil cap hole. If you see that foamy stuff on your cams and such, you're in trouble.The port on the back of the valve cover that the CCV hose attaches to commonly gets gunked and clogged up. Whenever you replace the valve cover gasket and spark plug seals, I recommend cleaning it out while you have the valve cover off.

[planksta]

started the car with the new valve on and it idles higher but the car still dies when i go to hit the gas right away, still have to let it sit for a while before i can drive it, and also a couple of days ago i went to the store shut the car off came back out and it would not start, waited there for a bit and then it started?? i have no idea, and i took a clip of what the car sounds like when it starts up and struggles to get through the rpms
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v8TyVC7Z4QI&feature=youtu.be

[planksta]

Planksta, Take a flashight and shine it down in the valve cover through the oil cap hole. If you see that foamy stuff on your cams and such, you're in trouble.The port on the back of the valve cover that the CCV hose attaches to commonly gets gunked and clogged up. Whenever you replace the valve cover gasket and spark plug seals, I recommend cleaning it out while you have the valve cover off.
Alright ill check in a little, i took a clip of what it sounds like when i first start the car up and rev it, its very choppy and struggles to make it up past 2000rpms, thanks

[cooljess76]

Also check the dipstick and the underside of the oil cap. "Chocolate milk" on either one of these things is usually a sign of a blown head gasket. Best way to find out is by performing a cylinder leak down check. You can purchase a kit at pep boys or autozone for 30-40 bucks.

[Platanos]

Planksta, where in Lancaster are you?

[planksta]

Planksta, where in Lancaster are you?
Like 5 mins from park city, Itd be nice to meet up sometime like during this week and see if you could help:cool:

[planksta]

Also check the dipstick and the underside of the oil cap. "Chocolate milk" on either one of these things is usually a sign of a blown head gasket. Best way to find out is by performing a cylinder leak down check. You can purchase a kit at pep boys or autozone for 30-40 bucks.
Soo i looked under the oil cap and the yellowish oily stuff was there, then checked the dipstick and it looked like the picture below not sure if thats what you were talking bout by chocolate milk Jess so i took some pics, oh and i didnt take the valve cover off to replace the pcv i just reached at those allen bolts blinded haha and saved a bit of work

[cooljess76]

Sorry for the confusion, I know you don't need to remove the valve cover to replace the CCV, I was just saying that if/when you replace the valve cover gasket, you should clean that orifice as it often gets clogged up.

Well it looks as though you have at least a little moisture in your engine which isn't a good thing. The way your car was sounding in the video, I wouldn't recommend driving it like that. I highly recommend performing a cylinder leakdown test. This way you're not chasing your tail for nothing. If everything checks out good, after the rough idle problem is fixed, run seafoam in the oil for a few miles and then do an oil change.

[planksta]

Sorry for the confusion, I know you don't need to remove the valve cover to replace the CCV, I was just saying that if/when you replace the valve cover gasket, you should clean that orifice as it often gets clogged up.

Well it looks as though you have at least a little moisture in your engine which isn't a good thing. The way your car was sounding in the video, I wouldn't recommend driving it like that. I highly recommend performing a cylinder leakdown test. This way you're not chasing your tail for nothing. If everything checks out good, after the rough idle problem is fixed, run seafoam in the oil for a few miles and then do an oil change.
Right I gotcha now, yea my next step is the leakdown test, then onto the seafoam in the oil and ill prob run it through the gas while I'm at it since i already put it through the brake booster, and yea it sounds horrible when the car starts, the idle really isn't bad I pretty much solved that but the loss of power and start ups are the problems still present, and I hardly drive it cause its not reliable it kills me to see her sit in the drive way, anyway thanks Jesse
-zach

[cooljess76]

No worries Zach, I'm keeping my fingers crossed for ya. Usually when a head gasket goes, it really goes. I mean in the few that I've seen, the oil cap and dipstick are usually caked with that crap. But sometimes they go gradually and sometimes there's no oil coolant mix. All that yellowish stuff means is that there's moisture in your oil. It doesn't necessarily mean you have a blown head gasket. You can also test the coolant for exhuast gasses. They sell a kit, but sometimes you can just look in the expansion tank and see an oily rainbow film floating on top of the coolant.

Seafoam in the fuel is supposed to remove any moisture in the fuel system by making it combustable. You might have just got some bad gas? Have you checked the spark plugs? How about the brake cleaner trick I mentioned earlier. A dry/cracked intake boot can cause the engine to run rough and misfire.

[planksta]

No worries Zach, I'm keeping my fingers crossed for ya. Usually when a head gasket goes, it really goes. I mean in the few that I've seen, the oil cap and dipstick are usually caked with that crap. But sometimes they go gradually and sometimes there's no oil coolant mix. All that yellowish stuff means is that there's moisture in your oil. It doesn't necessarily mean you have a blown head gasket. You can also test the coolant for exhuast gasses. They sell a kit, but sometimes you can just look in the expansion tank and see an oily rainbow film floating on top of the coolant.

Seafoam in the fuel is supposed to remove any moisture in the fuel system by making it combustable. You might have just got some bad gas? Have you checked the spark plugs? How about the brake cleaner trick I mentioned earlier. A dry/cracked intake boot can cause the engine to run rough and misfire.
Thanks man, just wondering what would be the cause of the head gasket to blow and what is a worse case scenario of it as far as problems?? seafoam was what cured my rough idle so I trust that stuff for sure. I will check the expansion tank for the oily film as well. I replaced the spark plugs about a month ago and I remember a little bit of oil around a few of the old plugs and they were pretty shot with a bit of carbon build up, funny i think i still have them in the garage. I also replaced the intake boot with a brand new one a couple months ago so its fine as well, and what was the brake cleaner trick again??

[cooljess76]

While the car is idling, spray brake cleaner on any/all of the vacuum hoses as well as around the intake manifold and rubber boot. Basically hose the entire driver's side of the engine down with brake cleaner while the engine is running. If you hear it rev up, you have a vacuum leak.

Even if you replaced the intake boot, it's possible that it didn't seal correctly or something is loose. I'm talking about the ribbed rubber elbow between the MAF and the ASC valve or throttle body.

Take another look into the spark plug wells. If there's any oil in them, soak it up with a paper towel. Then clean the insides of the plug wire connectors. Brake cleaner works good for this, just make sure to dry it out really good and wait a few minutes before you reconnect the plug wires. Are you sure you didn't mix the plug wires up when you changed the spark plugs? I always do one at a time for that very reason. If you mix them up, your car will run like crap because the cylinders are firing in the wrong order.

[cooljess76]

BTW, fatigue due to overheating or an improperly bled cooling system is the primary cause of head gasket failure. An unevenly torqued head, or a warped head will also cause a head gasket to fail.

[planksta]

While the car is idling, spray brake cleaner on any/all of the vacuum hoses as well as around the intake manifold and rubber boot. Basically hose the entire driver's side of the engine down with brake cleaner while the engine is running. If you hear it rev up, you have a vacuum leak.

Even if you replaced the intake boot, it's possible that it didn't seal correctly or something is loose. I'm talking about the ribbed rubber elbow between the MAF and the ASC valve or throttle body.

Take another look into the spark plug wells. If there's any oil in them, soak it up with a paper towel. Then clean the insides of the plug wire connectors. Brake cleaner works good for this, just make sure to dry it out really good and wait a few minutes before you reconnect the plug wires. Are you sure you didn't mix the plug wires up when you changed the spark plugs? I always do one at a time for that very reason. If you mix them up, your car will run like crap because the cylinders are firing in the wrong order.
hahah "basically hose down the entire driver's side of the engine" so Im guessing the brake cleaner fills the crack and gets rid of the leak so then the car goes back up, thats a pretty cool trick

And now that you mention it, that little ribbed part of the intake boot that goes to that smaller hose in the back it sometimes comes loose, should i hose clamp that to keep it in place?? its not super loose or anything but it has come loose before

And yea ill check the plugs again, I tried my best to get the oil before but was unsure of using anything on the plug wires so ill use some brake cleaner on them, and i put them back on in the same order that is the same order that they were on, are they numbered or anything like that??

[cooljess76]

hahah "basically hose down the entire driver's side of the engine" so Im guessing the brake cleaner fills the crack and gets rid of the leak so then the car goes back up, thats a pretty cool trick

And now that you mention it, that little ribbed part of the intake boot that goes to that smaller hose in the back it sometimes comes loose, should i hose clamp that to keep it in place?? its not super loose or anything but it has come loose before

And yea ill check the plugs again, I tried my best to get the oil before but was unsure of using anything on the plug wires so ill use some brake cleaner on them, and i put them back on in the same order that is the same order that they were on, are they numbered or anything like that??

No, the brake cleaner doesn't fill the crack and stop the leak, it gets sucked into the engine and ignites causing the idle to fluctuate. It's extremely flamable. That's why I said wait a few minutes and let it dry if you spray it in the plug wire ends. It simply locates the leak, the next step is stopping the leak.

While some plug wires may or may not have numbers printed on them, they are different lengths. The longest one should go to the cylinder furthest away towards the front of the engine. Second longest, to the second cylinder etc. I always recommend when replacing plugs or wires, DO THEM ONE AT A TIME and reconnect the wire BEFORE removing the next. This way there's no way to get them mixed up and installed in the wrong order. Think about it this way, if your ECU is telling cylinder one to fire and you have the wire plugged into cylinder two, this means the firing order is going to be off on atleast two of the cylinders and the engine isn't going to run correctly. You'll probably end up damaging something.

And finally, if you're talking about item# 5 in this illustration, yes it needs to be sealed. Any air entering the system after the MAF will cause a misfire and rough idle:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=CG73&mospid=47506&btnr=13_0418&hg=13&fg=15

This is the intake boot I'm referring to:

[planksta]

Yea I knew what you meant by the brake cleaner trick the way I worded that was dumb haha i meant it seeps in the cracks and it gets sucked in and causes the rpms to go up, the seafoam did that to my engine everytime i fed a little through the bbl

And for the plugs that's how I did them, i did them one by one and they are in the right length and everything

And yea i know what the intake boot is and the seals on it are on there, that's fine, im talking about the little piece behind the intake boot, is it alright to put a hose clamp on there to keep that other hose tight to it, i don't want to block it off or something just making sure that its ok to put one there

Wait haha yea its number #5 sorry i missed that link, alright ill seal that one good here in a few

[cooljess76]

If you replaced the intake boot a couple months ago, there's no reason that the hose should be popping out. I'd imagine it should fit nice and snug being a brand new boot and all.

That being said, I need you to do me a favor as soon as you get a chance. I need you to remove the boot and wipe the inside of it with a napkin. Let me know if you find oil on the napkin. Also, check your air filter for oil. I'm thinking that you might have excessive back pressure causing the engine to bog down(struggle through the rpm's as you described), causing the CCV to clog and fail, and causing the hose fitting to pop out of the intake boot.

Same thing happened to my Jeep when my driveshaft broke and smashed the muffler. Not only did the muffler get pinched, the monolith inside of the cat was jolted loose and wedged in the cat outlet. The restriction rendered my Jeep powerless and when I checked the air filter it was completely saturated with oil from the back pressure.

[planksta]

If you replaced the intake boot a couple months ago, there's no reason that the hose should be popping out. I'd imagine it should fit nice and snug being a brand new boot and all.

That being said, I need you to do me a favor as soon as you get a chance. I need you to remove the boot and wipe the inside of it with a napkin. Let me know if you find oil on the napkin. Also, check your air filter for oil. I'm thinking that you might have excessive back pressure causing the engine to bog down(struggle through the rpm's as you described), causing the CCV to clog and fail, and causing the hose fitting to pop out of the intake boot.

Same thing happened to my Jeep when my driveshaft broke and smashed the muffler. Not only did the muffler get pinched, the monolith inside of the cat was jolted loose and wedged in the cat outlet. The restriction rendered my Jeep powerless and when I checked the air filter it was completely saturated with oil from the back pressure.
Yea well like i said it is a snug fit and when i go to work on the engine its occasionally not sealed and popped out a little bit never all the way off though, and yea i can do that in a little bit ill take some pics of what the cloth and filter look like, also when you say CCV do you mean the crankcase valve or the catalytic converter?? someone else on here told me to remove the front 02 sensor and it would release the back pressure but im not sure where that sensor is?? also by the way that video was from under my car, cause the catalytic converter is where the boggy noise sounds like its coming from, thanks man, your a huge help seriously
-zach

[cooljess76]

Nah, don't remove the o2 sensor, it'll only make things worse and the engine will run pig rich and gunk everything up. CCV(carnk case vent valve). These cars don't have a PCV.

I'm just throwing out guesses at this point to help get you back on the road, lol. I wish I were in PA, I'd have you running in no time. Didn't mean to scare you about the head gasket thing, hopefully you just have a clogged cat. Since your car is a '95, it's OBDI which means you only have a pre-cat o2 sensor, which means you can run a less expensive aftermarket cat:wink: If your car were one year newer, it would be OBDII and it would have a pre-cat and post-cat sensor which would require the use of a very expensive OEM catalytic converter. Lucky you!

[planksta]

Oh alright soo like other cars pcv is the ccv for us right, haha and believe me I wish you were out here to it'd be nice if we could just go under the hood instead of having to write all this stuff, you'd probably have it figured in no time, hahah and don't worry about scaring me this problem has been such a b*tch that I'm ready to hear anything

And yea I noticed that the newer models had that fancy cat, funny I almost bought a 96 before this one but it was in much worse shape, its just weird that sometimes when I start the car it will drive good for like a minute and there won't be any problem but then the rpms drop down and then it struggles from there just doesn't make much sense, the way the car sounds when it first starts up its all from underneath where the cat is, just seems like that thing is restricting the power so I'm hoping its that, is their like a test for it maybe??

And I took the boot off and it was virtually spotless along with my air filter and air box, both were clean

[cooljess76]

hmm ok, well there's no real way to check the cat(that I know of) other than removing it and shaking it to see if you can hear stuff rattling around inside of it, aside from taking it in and having an emissions test performed. The problem with doing so is that you run a great risk of snapping the studs off of the header. If that happens, which is pretty common, you have to drill them out and from what I've read it's a total PITA due to the angle and cramped workspace. Maybe you could try removing the oil cap while it's idling and see if that relieves some of the pressure or if the idle changes. Usually, the engine won't even idle if the oil cap is off, so put your hand over the opening and see if you feel pressure building up.

[planksta]

haha of course, if i end up having to I will take the risk of taking it off

I started the car and took the oil cap off, and it idled the dame when i took it off, i then put my hand over it and it didn't like suck my hand in or anything like that but there was definitely some air being sucked in, and once i took my hand off of the hole the engine started shaking pretty bad and then died, i did it a second time and the same thing happened only this time the engine just barely stayed alive and didn't die

[M-technik-3]

I had an issue with mine two weeks ago with poor running and starting, turned out to be bad gas. Must have had excessive water in tank. Because added some HEET aka isopropohol to the tank and it cleared up.

[dave45056]

Planksta, did you run the codes on your engine yet? Since it's OBD1 you can do it yourself. Write down what codes you get now, then clear them and see what comes back. This will help narrow down the problem.
This link will show you how:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/Mult-Code_Reading/Mult-Code_Reading.htm

[planksta]

Planksta, did you run the codes on your engine yet? Since it's OBD1 you can do it yourself. Write down what codes you get now, then clear them and see what comes back. This will help narrow down the problem.
This link will show you how:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/Mult-Code_Reading/Mult-Code_Reading.htm
That's pretty cool I'm guna try it

[planksta]

Planksta, did you run the codes on your engine yet? Since it's OBD1 you can do it yourself. Write down what codes you get now, then clear them and see what comes back. This will help narrow down the problem.
This link will show you how:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/Mult-Code_Reading/Mult-Code_Reading.htm
I tried this and I couldn't get it to work:frown:

[planksta]

hmm ok, well there's no real way to check the cat(that I know of) other than removing it and shaking it to see if you can hear stuff rattling around inside of it, aside from taking it in and having an emissions test performed. The problem with doing so is that you run a great risk of snapping the studs off of the header. If that happens, which is pretty common, you have to drill them out and from what I've read it's a total PITA due to the angle and cramped workspace. Maybe you could try removing the oil cap while it's idling and see if that relieves some of the pressure or if the idle changes. Usually, the engine won't even idle if the oil cap is off, so put your hand over the opening and see if you feel pressure building up.
Hey jesse i was just reading over this again and i realized that you said an emissions test performed would tell whether it was the cat or not, i had an emissions test done a few months back and i had all of these problems during that test and i passed the test fine so idk, im half tempted to take my cat off like you said, even if i run the risk of breaking those studs, if i take the cat off do those studs come off with the cat or are they attached to the headers??

[cooljess76]

The studs are part of the header. I wouldn't do it unless you know your cat is bad. I mean, did the shop stick a probe in the muffler and give you a printout with results?

[planksta]

The studs are part of the header. I wouldn't do it unless you know your cat is bad. I mean, did the shop stick a probe in the muffler and give you a printout with results?
Yea I looked under there today and it does seem pretty cramped, its more my impatience and love for working on the car that makes me want to jump under there and start tearing out and replacing you know haha, and yea I got a print out of the results, im not positive on the probe thing but it says catalytic converter pass, plus i know the owner and i told him to test it to see if anything was wrong and nothing was wrong that he could find as far as codes and emissions went

[dave45056]

Keep trying to get the codes. Most people try to push on the gas pedal too quickly and don't push it all the way down. 5 seconds is a ton of time to floor the gas pedal down 5 times. put the key in position 2, wait for the check engine light to come on then push the pedal down deliberately 5 times. Have a pen and paper handy.

[planksta]

Keep trying to get the codes. Most people try to push on the gas pedal too quickly and don't push it all the way down. 5 seconds is a ton of time to floor the gas pedal down 5 times. put the key in position 2, wait for the check engine light to come on then push the pedal down deliberately 5 times. Have a pen and paper handy.
My check engine light never comes on whether i put the car in the second position or if i have it running, so what your saying is that my CEL should come on when the key is in position 2 before i do anything right?

[dave45056]

I have a feeling someone removed the bulb.
This video shows what it should look like:
3WPSIigz47Q

[planksta]

So its getting worse:frown:, i went out today and started the car cause i had to drive it to the store, i usually let it warm up for a few minutes so that the car wont struggle as much like it does when it first starts up, came back out a few minutes later and the car was idling at like 2000 rpms and a lot of white smoke was blowing out the pipe and it was spitting out moisture also, so i hit the gas on the hill that im parked on and this super loud screeching noise happend and the car was running like it wanted to take off, like when i just put it in drive it usually slowly moves but it was taking off without me even hitting the gas i had to slam on the brakes to keep it put, so at this time i was down the hill and the car started bogging and then died and refused to start up again, so i let her sit at the bottom of the hill and later in the day i went down and she started right up and parked it back in my drive way, I dont know what to do:frown:

[dave45056]

based on everything you have said this is starting to sound like a Head Gasket.
White smoke after warm up is a dead giveaway. Do a leakdown test or there is another test that checks your coolant for exhaust gases. Search this site, there is a post about it.