H&R Non-M 19mm Rear Sway Bar 33973-1

[kojohns]

SOLD!!!

I'm a Z3 owner, but I believe this sway bar fits the 318ti as well.

This 19mm adjustable rear sway bar was used for ~500 miles before previous owner removed it. I only want the front bar from the set I purchased. I have not installed it.

It's in excellent condition and comes with what you see. The bushings are rubber.

PM me for Paypal address

Also listed on Bimmerforums in Z3 Classifieds
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1784008

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[slow_ti]

Negotiable ?

[kojohns]

Anything is negotiable in my book... OBO is acceptable... what are you thinking?

I am not sure if you can PM me because I may not have enough posts to qualify. If not, hit me up at kurtojohnson01 at gmail dot com

[slow_ti]

Wanna text me? 703 899 0086

[jca]

In theory how would this sway bar effect the handling of a base ti? A sport ti?

[kojohns]

Sale Pending

[spidertri]

It would add rear spring rate and introduce more oversteer to the car.

Since the swaybar acts by resisting twisting of the bar, a very simple way to look at it is to compare the moment of inertia. So assuming same material in the bar, same mounting points, etc. The 19mm bar offers 2x the resistance of a sport 16mm bar and 3.4x of a base 14mm bar.

[Bluebimma]

^^ i <3 knowledgable people :)

[jca]

It would add rear spring rate and introduce more oversteer to the car.

Since the swaybar acts by resisting twisting of the bar, a very simple way to look at it is to compare the moment of inertia. So assuming same material in the bar, same mounting points, etc. The 19mm bar offers 2x the resistance of a sport 16mm bar and 3.4x of a base 14mm bar.

Thanks for that your very understandable answer to my question. One more: Would you say the the difference this bar makes in the amount of oversteer would be noticeable in everyday driving? On a side note I have read more than once that BMW engineers understeer into their cars to keep the average driver out of trouble. Anyone else heard that?

[familytruckster]

Thanks for that your very understandable answer to my question. One more: Would you say the the difference this bar makes in the amount of oversteer would be noticeable in everyday driving? On a side note I have read more than once that BMW engineers understeer into their cars to keep the average driver out of trouble. Anyone else heard that?

ALL carmakers do that. I'd add more front bar first though. Someone else can explain that...

[spidertri]

I don't want to take away from kojohns' FS thread but it is typically better to go to stiffer springs first and then use the swaybar to fine tune the suspension.

I have a 19mm RSB and it really helped reduce the body roll but I also have coilovers with somewhat stiff springs, I DD it and it's absolutely fine. It's when you push the car to its limits that you will find the oversteer vs understeer happening. In normal daily driving I do not think many people are pushing their cars to the limit. But if you go to an autox you might see a nice change.

One thing that is a bit of a weakness on the trailing arms is the endlink mounting tab. These can break when you use stock (soft) springs and a large rear sway bar. The big bar becomes the main component trying to resist body roll and puts all of that force on the sway bar tab. If you have stiffer springs, they do more of the work and the tabs end up taking less stress.

Truckster's comment about the front bar is its own topic. A big front bar helps keep as much negative camber in the front as possible. It is inherent to the MacPherson strut design that as the body rolls the strut compresses and leans outward. As these two things happen, the camber of the loaded front wheel goes more positive which is not what you want when cornering. So by running a big front bar you limited the amount of body roll and therefore limit the amount of camber change. However, if you run too big a front bar it will lift the unloaded wheel in hard corners, if you look through autox pictures of E36s/E46s you'll see what I mean.

Sorry for being long winded and sorry to kojohn for taking your thread off on a tangent.

[kojohns]

Bar is Sold. I would agree that higher springs rates are typical first step. And then stiffer front bar before stiffer rear bar. That order of upgrade will generally keep your power wheels on the ground through the curves.

Adding a stiffer rear bar first will cause a rear wheel drive car with a light rear end to lose contact from one of the rear wheels in a curve.

[jca]

I really didn't mean to get the thread off on a tangent, but it seemed like a good time to ask the questions. Glad that the bar was sold, and thanks to all for the good information on bars and springs. Cheers, John

[slow_ti]

Thanks breh!

[eurohb]

Thanks breh!

.. bastard!

[slow_ti]

Lol.

[jiggerjosh]

Anyone one else not running a rear bar at all?

[spidertri]

I tried it with 400lb rear springs but there definitely wasn't enough support. I've heard 600 - 700lb rear springs and no rear bar helps the car rotate and put the power down better.