First dive under the hood. thermostat, water pump, oil

[cjm1219]

I have spent much time reading many many post here and I think I am ready to jump in.

Plan
-Change Oil.
I have filter and washers/o-ring to go with it. I am going to stick with conventional oil as that is want has been used in the past with this car.

-Thermostat
I think mine is stuck open as the car runs very cool and only get to the center of the temp gauge on the freeway after a few minutes of going 80. Only getting 28-29 mpg with 80% freeway driving. Looks pretty straight forward.

-Water Pump
Has never been replaced as far as the records I have and from what the PO remembers. Looks fairly straight forward also. Might have to fight the pulley and work at it to get it to come out. I do see an o-ring to replace while in there.

Am I missing any parts I need?
Here is my cart so far. (I already have Oil filter)
What should I pick up for $6 to get free shipping?

Quantity SubTotal

11-51-1-714-519-M16 17 in stock
Ships Tomorrow!
O-Ring for Water Pump, 318ti (1995-96) Compact with M42 Engine (E36), Brand: Bruss
[More Info] $4.00
$4.00

11-51-0-393-338-M52 63 in stock
Ships Tomorrow!
Water Pump (uses metal impeller), 318ti (1995-96) Compact with M42 Engine (E36), Brand: Graf
[More Info] $48.00
$48.00

11-53-1-721-172-M30 100+ in stock
Ships Tomorrow!
Gasket, Thermostat Housing, 318ti (1995-96) Compact with M42 Engine (E36), Brand: Elring Klinger
[More Info] $4.75
$4.75

11-53-1-721-218-M213 70 in stock
Ships Tomorrow!
Thermostat O-Ring, 60 X 3, 318ti (1995-96) Compact with M42 Engine (E36), Brand: D P H
[More Info] $1.00
$1.00

11-53-7-511-083-M164 100+ in stock
Ships Tomorrow!
Thermostat, 92 Degrees, 318i/is/iC w/ M42 engine (1995), 318ti w/ M42 engine (1995), 323i/is/iC (1998-99), 325i/is/iC (1992-95), 328i/is/iC (1996-99), M3 w/ B30 (1995), Each Brand: Vernet
[More Info] $11.25
$11.25
Only $6.00 more in qualifying parts needed for FREE Ground shipping on those items! [

[Mr.Squeelerz]

If you're doing all that at least put on some new hoses and a new belt. Some may suggest replacing the radiator at the same time.

[cooljess76]

If you're doing all that at least put on some new hoses and a new belt. Some may suggest replacing the radiator at the same time.

+1 agreed! If you could fit it into your budget, a new Behr radiator will only run you another $140-175 bucks. Plus it might be a good time to replace the plastic octopus fitting on the driver's side of your engine block. If I'm not mistaken, M42's don't have the plastic "Y" fitting on the back of the head, so no need to worry about that. If you were to replace the radiator and "octopus" fitting in addition to the other components you've listed, you'll have a completely refreshed cooling system which is a huge weight off your shoulders.

Now most people will tell you that you need to remove the intake manifold to access the octopus fitting. Personally I don't recommend going that route. Instead, it's much easier and you'd be killing two birds with one stone if you were to simply remove the alternator and oil filter housing and attack it from the front. Oil filter housing leaks are a common issue with these engines. So with it removed, you can easily replace the two o-rings and paper gasket(5 bucks tops), and that will be another crisis avoided. Plus if you have the radiator out, it will give you even more room to access the alternator, oil filter housing and octopus fitting.

As Pete mentioned, a new belt and hoses are a good idea too. You'll have the belt off to remove the alternator anyway, and the hoses off at the thermostat, just leave them attached to the old radiator and yank the whole thing out. I know it sounds like a lot, but it's so much easier when you just knock it all out in one shot. The most important thing is BLEEDING THE AIR OUT OF THE COOLING SYSTEM. Let me stress DON'T FORGET TO BLEED THE COOLING SYSTEM! I can't say it enough, ALWAYS BLEED THE COOLING SYSTEM. Once you think it's bled, BLEED IT AGAIN and MAKE SURE IT'S BLED PROPERLY.

So, now that we've established that you're going to need to bleed the cooling system because all of the coolant is going to dump out of the engine when you remove the t-stat and water pump, all the more reason to replace the radiator, hoses and octopus fitting. This will save you from having to re-bleed it again and again later.

Removing the water pump can be a PITA. Never try to pry it out. If you look at the water pump as it's installed on the engine, you'll notice two unused threaded holes on the face. These holes are meant to be used to extract it from the engine once you've removed the bolts. Basically, you remove the bolts, then thread them into the extraction holes and the water pump is supposed to slide forward and out of the engine. However, it never works that way.

90% of the time, those extraction holes snap off and your water pump ends up in pieces and stuck in the motor. That's okay, DON'T TRY TO PRY IT OUT. You'll cause more damage than good. Instead, take a big ass pair of channel lock pliers, grip the water pump housing and twist it side to side(clockwise, counter clockwise) while slowly pulling it forward and out of the engine. When you go to install the new one, put some silicone grease on the o-ring to help it slide in without getting cut.

Here's some helpful links:

cooling system rebuild
http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=18066

oil filter housing
http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20854

BLEEDING THE COOLING SYSTEM
http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27983

[Mopho]

+1 agreed! If you could fit it into your budget, a new Behr radiator will only run you another $140-175 bucks. Plus it might be a good time to replace the plastic octopus fitting on the driver's side of your engine block. If I'm not mistaken, M42's don't have the plastic "Y" fitting on the back of the head, so no need to worry about that. If you were to replace the radiator and "octopus" fitting in addition to the other components you've listed, you'll have a completely refreshed cooling system which is a huge weight off your shoulders.

Now most people will tell you that you need to remove the intake manifold to access the octopus fitting. Personally I don't recommend going that route. Instead, it's much easier and you'd be killing two birds with one stone if you were to simply remove the alternator and oil filter housing and attack it from the front. Oil filter housing leaks are a common issue with these engines. So with it removed, you can easily replace the two o-rings and paper gasket(5 bucks tops), and that will be another crisis avoided. Plus if you have the radiator out, it will give you even more room to access the alternator, oil filter housing and octopus fitting.

As Pete mentioned, a new belt and hoses are a good idea too. You'll have the belt off to remove the alternator anyway, and the hoses off at the thermostat, just leave them attached to the old radiator and yank the whole thing out. I know it sounds like a lot, but it's so much easier when you just knock it all out in one shot. The most important thing is BLEEDING THE AIR OUT OF THE COOLING SYSTEM. Let me stress DON'T FORGET TO BLEED THE COOLING SYSTEM! I can't say it enough, ALWAYS BLEED THE COOLING SYSTEM. Once you think it's bled, BLEED IT AGAIN and MAKE SURE IT'S BLED PROPERLY.

So, now that we've established that you're going to need to bleed the cooling system because all of the coolant is going to dump out of the engine when you remove the t-stat and water pump, all the more reason to replace the radiator, hoses and octopus fitting. This will save you from having to re-bleed it again and again later.

Removing the water pump can be a PITA. Never try to pry it out. If you look at the water pump as it's installed on the engine, you'll notice two unused threaded holes on the face. These holes are meant to be used to extract it from the engine once you've removed the bolts. Basically, you remove the bolts, then thread them into the extraction holes and the water pump is supposed to slide forward and out of the engine. However, it never works that way.

90% of the time, those extraction holes snap off and your water pump ends up in pieces and stuck in the motor. That's okay, DON'T TRY TO PRY IT OUT. You'll cause more damage than good. Instead, take a big ass pair of channel lock pliers, grip the water pump housing and twist it side to side(clockwise, counter clockwise) while slowly pulling it forward and out of the engine. When you go to install the new one, put some silicone grease on the o-ring to help it slide in without getting cut.

Here's some helpful links:

cooling system rebuild
http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=18066

oil filter housing
http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20854

BLEEDING THE COOLING SYSTEM
http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27983

This is the best advise you can get. I totally agree with cooljess on this plan.
The fitting on the side of the block is VERY important, due to the plastic IS deteriated and I don't care how well the vehicle was maintained, they ALL need replacement after 100K. Radiator hoses are also a must. Make sure the lower radiator hose is on correctly, mine was replaced by a squid that put it on backwards (L shaped hose) and caused mine to rub, thus blowing all the coolant out when it popped, causing a blown head gasket.
You did not mention how many miles are on your car, for the cost of these extra parts it's the best insurance.
And as mentioned before a few times, make sure you burp out all the air. I did mine one time (after changing the water pump) by using my steep driveway, then doing it over and over again as the directions given here.
Good luck and happy motoring when you are done.
And run synthetic oil, of course. Wix filters are better made than most others, check it out on u-tube. Frams, like I have used for years (until I saw what they looked like cut open) are not really one of the better filters.

[cjm1219]

Thanks for all the reply's. The car has 137K on it and has been dealer maintained up until about 4 years ago and only about 10k miles ago. I have only had it for 2 months.

In the maintenance records that came with the car it has a cooling system service and belts/hoses replaced about 45k ago from a dealer. Do you think they did the plastic part? all the hoses are in good shape and are flexible. There wasn't much detail on the invoice. This was along with a Stage II inspection.

I was avoiding doing the plastic part due to not feeling confident removing the intake and all this go around. If you can get at it OK from the alternator oil filter housing side I might go that route and do the housing gaskets and o-rings.

I wasn't going to do radiator mostly as due to cost.


+1 agreed! If you could fit it into your budget, a new Behr radiator will only run you another $140-175 bucks. Plus it might be a good time to replace the plastic octopus fitting on the driver's side of your engine block. If I'm not mistaken, M42's don't have the plastic "Y" fitting on the back of the head, so no need to worry about that. If you were to replace the radiator and "octopus" fitting in addition to the other components you've listed, you'll have a completely refreshed cooling system which is a huge weight off your shoulders.

Now most people will tell you that you need to remove the intake manifold to access the octopus fitting. Personally I don't recommend going that route. Instead, it's much easier and you'd be killing two birds with one stone if you were to simply remove the alternator and oil filter housing and attack it from the front. Oil filter housing leaks are a common issue with these engines. So with it removed, you can easily replace the two o-rings and paper gasket(5 bucks tops), and that will be another crisis avoided. Plus if you have the radiator out, it will give you even more room to access the alternator, oil filter housing and octopus fitting.

As Pete mentioned, a new belt and hoses are a good idea too. You'll have the belt off to remove the alternator anyway, and the hoses off at the thermostat, just leave them attached to the old radiator and yank the whole thing out. I know it sounds like a lot, but it's so much easier when you just knock it all out in one shot. The most important thing is BLEEDING THE AIR OUT OF THE COOLING SYSTEM. Let me stress DON'T FORGET TO BLEED THE COOLING SYSTEM! I can't say it enough, ALWAYS BLEED THE COOLING SYSTEM. Once you think it's bled, BLEED IT AGAIN and MAKE SURE IT'S BLED PROPERLY.

So, now that we've established that you're going to need to bleed the cooling system because all of the coolant is going to dump out of the engine when you remove the t-stat and water pump, all the more reason to replace the radiator, hoses and octopus fitting. This will save you from having to re-bleed it again and again later.

Removing the water pump can be a PITA. Never try to pry it out. If you look at the water pump as it's installed on the engine, you'll notice two unused threaded holes on the face. These holes are meant to be used to extract it from the engine once you've removed the bolts. Basically, you remove the bolts, then thread them into the extraction holes and the water pump is supposed to slide forward and out of the engine. However, it never works that way.

90% of the time, those extraction holes snap off and your water pump ends up in pieces and stuck in the motor. That's okay, DON'T TRY TO PRY IT OUT. You'll cause more damage than good. Instead, take a big ass pair of channel lock pliers, grip the water pump housing and twist it side to side(clockwise, counter clockwise) while slowly pulling it forward and out of the engine. When you go to install the new one, put some silicone grease on the o-ring to help it slide in without getting cut.

Here's some helpful links:

cooling system rebuild
http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=18066

oil filter housing
http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20854

BLEEDING THE COOLING SYSTEM
http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27983

[Mopho]

Thanks for all the reply's. The car has 137K on it and has been dealer maintained up until about 4 years ago and only about 10k miles ago. I have only had it for 2 months.

In the maintenance records that came with the car it has a cooling system service and belts/hoses replaced about 45k ago from a dealer. Do you think they did the plastic part? all the hoses are in good shape and are flexible. There wasn't much detail on the invoice. This was along with a Stage II inspection.

I was avoiding doing the plastic part due to not feeling confident removing the intake and all this go around. If you can get at it OK from the alternator oil filter housing side I might go that route and do the housing gaskets and o-rings.

I wasn't going to do radiator mostly as due to cost.

At 133k, and 45K on the belts and hoses, I would borrow the money if that is a deciding factor in changing them and the RADIATOR. I have never seen a plastic radiator go much more than that without the possibility of problems down the line. Unless you have a receipt for a new radiator, replace it to save on grief later.
The problem with these engines, is the aluminum alloy head is so large with the duel cams etc. that when they over heat they almost always warp.
I only drove across a 5 mile bridge when mine blew the head gasket SEAL to the block (the head gasket looked O.K. when we took it apart) because I had no place to pull over. Not much room for error and pulling over to put coolant in it after just a few miles, didn't work on mine, probably due to the air captured in the block- I didn't get enough coolant back in it to drive the rest of the way home because I didn't see the lower hose was leaking (mine had around 140K on it...) until I got home and it was too late.... :mad:

[cjm1219]

Ok fine. :smile:

Am I missing anything? Are these correct parts? Already order the list from about but added 1 gallon of BMW coolant.


Part Number Availability Description Price Quantity SubTotal

11-42-1-709-513-M17 100+ in stock
Ships Today!
O-Ring for Oil Filter Housing (24 x 3 mm) (2 per car, sold individually), 318ti (1995-96, from September 1995) Compact with M42 Engine (E36), Brand: Victor Reinz
[More Info] [Choose alternate brand] $1.25
$2.50

11-42-1-709-800-M17 100+ in stock
Ships Today!
Gasket, Oil Filter Housing to Block, 318ti (1995-96, from September 1995) Compact with M42 Engine (E36), Brand: Victor Reinz
[More Info] [Choose alternate brand] $2.25
$2.25

TOL-LIS-54760 Ships Today!
[why is this?] Oil Filter Wrench, End Cap Style, 318i/is/iC/ti Models with M42 and M44 Engines (from 9/95) with Plastic Oil Filter Cover (76mm, 14 flutes, 3/8” drive)
[More Info] $8.95
$8.95

11-28-1-743-193-M21 100+ in stock
Ships Today!
Belt for A/C Compressor, 4K X 890, 318ti (1995-96) Compact with M42 Engine (E36), Brand: Contitech
[More Info] [Choose alternate brand] $8.00
$8.00

11-28-1-470-028-M21 9 in stock
Ships Today!
Belt for Water Pump/Alternator, 6K X 1660, 318i/is/iC/ti w/ M42 (01/94-1995), Brand: Contitech
[More Info] [Choose alternate brand] $19.75
$19.75

11-53-1-721-709-M203 20 in stock
Ships Today!
Radiator Hose, Lower, 318i/is/iC with M42 Engine (1992-99), 318ti with M42 Engine (1995-99), Each Brand: Rein Automotive
[More Info] [Choose alternate brand] $14.25
$14.25

11-53-1-721-708-M203 16 in stock
Ships Today!
Radiator Hose, Upper, 318i/is/iC with M42 Engine (1992-99), 318ti with M42 Engine (1995-99), Each Brand: Rein Automotive
[More Info] [Choose alternate brand] $12.25
$12.25

11-53-1-709-157-M17 100+ in stock
Ships Today!
O-Ring for Water Pipe, E30 318i M42, 318iC; E36 318i/is/iC/ti; Z3 1.9
[More Info] [Choose alternate brand] $1.50
$1.50

11-53-1-714-738-M9 41 in stock
Ships Today!
Water Pipe Connector (also use O-Ring 11-53-1-709-157-M17), 318ti (1995-96) Compact with M42 Engine (E36), Brand: Genuine BMW
[More Info] [Choose alternate brand] $19.25
$19.25

17-11-1-728-907-M6 98 in stock
Ships Today!
Radiator, Manual or Automatic Transmission, 318ti (1995-96) Compact with M42 Engine (E36), Brand: Behr
[More Info] [Choose alternate brand] $154.75
$154.75

Also, finding time may also be an issues. How many hours would one expect this all to go together. I am not going to rush through it and I do have basic mechanical knowledge and tools. Have done, alternator, starter, fan clutch, fluid changes on my truck for the last 188k miles on it(nissan frontier).

[cjm1219]

Oops. I need to add a few more hoses on there.

[cooljess76]

The whole job can be done over the weekend, but realistically can be done in a day if you're skilled, have all materials and tools on hand and nothing breaks in the process. Be very careful loosening and tightening the A/C belt tensioner. It's not spring loaded like the alternator belt tensioner and the bracket is very thin where the tensioner bolts onto it. Don't overtorque it. Headgasket failure due to overheating is the number one killer of these engines and is far too common. Vapor-lock(airlock) is the number one cause of overheating. People often forget or simply don't bleed the system properly after opening the coolant loop. But sometimes equipment failures such as cracked radiators, plastic fittings or blown hoses allow coolant to either leak or dump and air to enter the system. Once enough air enters the system, it crates a bubble inside of the radiator which prevents coolant from circulating through the engine and heater core. The problem then multiplies when the coolant becomes trapped in the engine, vaporizes and builds up pressure. The superheated vapors can also damage sensors, fatigue components and ultimately weaken and destroy the headgasket as well as warp the cylinder head. Replacing these things and following with a proper bleeding will save you a ton of grief and money later down the road, not to mention the peace of mind and ability to drive your car worry free for another hundred thousand miles.

[cjm1219]

OK, Pile o' parts is heading my way.

Weekend of the 16th is wide open. I may have a bunch of dumb questions, so....stand by.

Thanks all.

This website is great. Although I think I read too much and convince myself that my car will fall apart any second.

[Mopho]

OK, Pile o' parts is heading my way.

Weekend of the 16th is wide open. I may have a bunch of dumb questions, so....stand by.

Thanks all.

This website is great. Although I think I read too much and convince myself that my car will fall apart any second.

:smile: LOL

My Pappy used to say, "The only dumb question is the one not asked".

I used to drive everyone crazy growing up, always asking questions.
But I ended up smarter than the ones in my family that thought they knew everthing.... :wink:
Good luck on your labor of love, I call it. Whenever I can make my car work better, it is a labor of at least......like. :confused:

[cooljess76]

I ask a lot of questions and I still feel dumb sometimes:redface:

OP, if you run into any snags don't hesitate to ask for help. When you get to the bleeding process, feel free to PM me. I'd be happy to walk you through it over the phone if need be.

[zoner]

Don't forget to replace the plastic radiator reservoir and o-ring at the bottom of the reservoir when you replace the radiator; always use BMW coolant (the blue stuff); and when you need parts in the future, Genuine BMW parts are almost always cheaper from Tischer BMW ( www.getbmwparts.com ) than from Pelican.

Have fun! :smile:

[cooljess76]

Behr radiators come with the reservior.

[zoner]

Behr radiators come with the reservior.

Duly noted. ;)

[cjm1219]

Got a late start today and am working in the heat. Taking my time and taking frequent A/C breaks, on one now :smile:

Got everything removed and the new water pipe installed so far. Old one looked to still be in good shape and didn't crack while removing.

Water pump took some work to get out and the impeller was cracked and missing some small pieces.

Thermostat was stuck open.

Alternator was a pain. Not looking forward to installing it.

Going to eat some food and then see how much I can get back together before dark. Then wrap it up tomorrow.

This site has been a great asset and I have been referring to it all day.

Thanks!

[cooljess76]

Got a late start today and am working in the heat. Taking my time and taking frequent A/C breaks, on one now :smile:

Got everything removed and the new water pipe installed so far. Old one looked to still be in good shape and didn't crack while removing.

Water pump took some work to get out and the impeller was cracked and missing some small pieces.

Thermostat was stuck open.

Alternator was a pain. Not looking forward to installing it.

Going to eat some food and then see how much I can get back together before dark. Then wrap it up tomorrow.

This site has been a great asset and I have been referring to it all day.

Thanks!
Awesome man! How did you end up getting the water pump out? Did you try using the extraction holes? They usually crumble the water pump housing, that's why I recommended the big ass pair of channel locks and rotating it side to side etc. How about the octopus fitting? Did removing the alternator and oil filter housing give you enough room to get your hands in there?

[cjm1219]

Awesome man! How did you end up getting the water pump out? Did you try using the extraction holes? They usually crumble the water pump housing, that's why I recommended the big ass pair of channel locks and rotating it side to side etc. How about the octopus fitting? Did removing the alternator and oil filter housing give you enough room to get your hands in there?

Water pump came out with large vise grips and me yanking it side to side, up and down. Took a bit and then it popped out. Extraction holes just cracked the housing as expected.

Octopus fitting wasn't too bad once I got the alternator(PITA) off and filter housing. getting to the hose clamps was a bit tricky as they all seemed to be rotated away from me. Had to feel around and figure it out blind.

I am about to finish it up. Only have to put the belts back on, radiator hoses, radiator, fan and fill with oil and coolant. Then the bleeding begins.

[cjm1219]

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n164/cjmatlock/IMAG0992.jpg
Spent some time and cleaned up the motor a bit

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n164/cjmatlock/IMAG0997.jpg
Thermostat stuck open. As suspected.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n164/cjmatlock/IMAG0995.jpg
Piece fell off when I touched it and there is hairline cracks on the other sections. Not sure if damage came from the extraction or if it was cracked before. Either way, glad it is replaced

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n164/cjmatlock/IMAG0996.jpg
Plastic "octopus" was in good shape. I wonder if it is original or not. No records of it being replaced other than cooling system service, which I wouldn't think would replace that.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n164/cjmatlock/IMAG0998.jpg
All buttoned up and running great.

Gets up to temperature quickly and is running very smoothly. I am hoping it will get a few more miles to the tank now.

The whole job wasn't really hard at all. Just followed directions and studied what I had to do. Everything came apart and went back together like it was suppose to. Some force was needed with the water pump and the alternator but other than that it was just turning wrenches.

One concern I did run into was once I filled it up with coolant I had a leak from the thermostat housing. I snugged it down a little more but it was still seeping. Once I ran the car for a few minutes it stopped. I guess the gasket needed to warm up to seal properly.

[zoner]

One concern I did run into was once I filled it up with coolant I had a leak from the thermostat housing. I snugged it down a little more but it was still seeping. Once I ran the car for a few minutes it stopped. I guess the gasket needed to warm up to seal properly.


My M42 did the same thing when I replaced the water pump- o-ring seeped for a few days after install then stopped and I never had another problem with it. It's not a bad idea to put a thin coat of silicone grease on the o-rings before installing.

While you had it apart, did you happen to notice if the hydraulic tensioner for the drive belt was worn or frozen? That's a part that tends to go over time as well. Easiest way to tell visually if it is bad is that the mounting holes start to elongate and/or the plastic bushing is cracked or broken.

[cjm1219]

My M42 did the same thing when I replaced the water pump- o-ring seeped for a few days after install then stopped and I never had another problem with it. It's not a bad idea to put a thin coat of silicone grease on the o-rings before installing.

While you had it apart, did you happen to notice if the hydraulic tensioner for the drive belt was worn or frozen? That's a part that tends to go over time as well. Easiest way to tell visually if it is bad is that the mounting holes start to elongate and/or the plastic bushing is cracked or broken.

Nope, hydraulic tensioner seemed to be fine. Springs back and whatnot.

[zoner]

Nope, hydraulic tensioner seemed to be fine. Springs back and whatnot.


http://nwex.co.uk/images/smilies/smiley_thumbsup.gif

[cooljess76]

Awesome work man! That's what I like to see, wish more people would do the job right and help keep these cars on the road. Drive it around for a few days and note that the heater blows hot air. If you notice the heater not blowing as hot as it should, air has probably worked it's way into the radiator and the cooling system will need to be re-bled. It happens, sometimes it's hard to get all of the air out on the first try. If you need help bleeding the system, shoot me a PM and I'll talk you through it over the phone. Congrats on a job well done!

[nc318tigurl]

This is the best advise you can get. I totally agree with cooljess on this plan.
The fitting on the side of the block is VERY important, due to the plastic IS deteriated and I don't care how well the vehicle was maintained, they ALL need replacement after 100K. Radiator hoses are also a must. Make sure the lower radiator hose is on correctly, mine was replaced by a squid that put it on backwards (L shaped hose) and caused mine to rub, thus blowing all the coolant out when it popped, causing a blown head gasket.
You did not mention how many miles are on your car, for the cost of these extra parts it's the best insurance.
And as mentioned before a few times, make sure you burp out all the air. I did mine one time (after changing the water pump) by using my steep driveway, then doing it over and over again as the directions given here.
Good luck and happy motoring when you are done.
And run synthetic oil, of course. Wix filters are better made than most others, check it out on u-tube. Frams, like I have used for years (until I saw what they looked like cut open) are not really one of the better filters.

I have subscribed to this thread!