Replacing Transmission Fluid - 5 Speed Manual

[AnuketTi]

Hi Guys 'n Gals -

I am posting this question because I have never done this procedure and someone else may benefit from the thread.

I have a 1995 318 Ti with a 5 Speed manual and would like flush and replace my transmission fluid.

Does anyone have the procedure available and / or tips on how to do this?

Thanks!

[samdemange]

hi, look at this ( translate with g....e )

http://www.darkgyver.fr/reparation-BMW-144-144-vidange-boite-de-vitesse-manuelle-fc.html

[spidertri]

Remove the fill plug before the drain plug. The fill plug is located on the right side of the trans (looking forward) and I believe is 17mm. The drain plug is the same size and on the bottom of the transmission.

You'll need a pump to get fluid up to the fill hole, make sure the fluid you use is appropriate, earlier manuals used ATF I think.

[AnuketTi]

hi, look at this ( translate with g....e )

http://www.darkgyver.fr/reparation-BMW-144-144-vidange-boite-de-vitesse-manuelle-fc.html

Merci! :wink:

Remove the fill plug before the drain plug. The fill plug is located on the right side of the trans (looking forward) and I believe is 17mm. The drain plug is the same size and on the bottom of the transmission.

You'll need a pump to get fluid up to the fill hole, make sure the fluid you use is appropriate, earlier manuals used ATF I think.

Thanks! It seems it is indeed ATF. If so, I will upgrade it to maybe a synthetic ATF or something like Redline that was recommended. Car shifts smooth at the moment, but I can see there is a slow leak so I will need to figure out where it's coming from.

Hopefully it's just a bad crush washer and replacement will fix it.

[diegokiill]

Does 1997 TI use ATF too?

[jca]

Does 1997 TI use ATF too?

Yes, it does. Be sure to use a high quality synthetic. I would change it out every 30k miles of so. Cheers, John

[spidertri]

Merci! :wink:



Thanks! It seems it is indeed ATF. If so, I will upgrade it to maybe a synthetic ATF or something like Redline that was recommended. Car shifts smooth at the moment, but I can see there is a slow leak so I will need to figure out where it's coming from.

Hopefully it's just a bad crush washer and replacement will fix it.
There aren't crush washers on the drain/fill plugs. They are just tapered thread fit. Be careful when tightening them, the torque specs called out are for dry threads, there's no way to get the threads dry, just tighten enough so that it doesn't leak.

If you currently have a leak and its not from a loose plug, chances are it is the selector shaft seal, that's a pretty common leak spot. You have to remove the selector rod to get at that seal.

[AnuketTi]

There aren't crush washers on the drain/fill plugs. They are just tapered thread fit. Be careful when tightening them, the torque specs called out are for dry threads, there's no way to get the threads dry, just tighten enough so that it doesn't leak.

If you currently have a leak and its not from a loose plug, chances are it is the selector shaft seal, that's a pretty common leak spot. You have to remove the selector rod to get at that seal.

Thanks for the information. If the leak is from the selector shaft seal, is this something I can get to from the top from inside the car or does the transmission have to be removed?

[AnuketTi]

I checked my transmission today and I confirmed that it uses ATF Oil. The sticker is on the Passenger / right side of the transmission.

I also check the leak and it seems to be seeping from the drain plug. I will replace it when I flush and refill the transmission.

I am thinking of upgrading the oil for better performance and durability.

[BlackBMWs]

I wonder if using Redline MTL in my tranny is causing any mutant transformation inside? 2 years and no issues or leaks. :cool:

[AnuketTi]

I wonder if using Redline MTL in my tranny is causing any mutant transformation inside? 2 years and no issues or leaks. :cool:

Is the MTL a form of ATF or is it completely different? Did you flush the tranny out first before you started using it or just did a drain and fill?

[BlackBMWs]

It's made for Manual trannies but, now I'm inclined to check in case I shoulda used ATF. Habit and many tranny fills over the years.


1998 & 1997 318ti Sport Schwartz II
1995 318ti Active Alpineweib III

[bazar01]

It's made for Manual trannies but, now I'm inclined to check in case I shoulda used ATF. Habit and many tranny fills over the years.


1998 & 1997 318ti Sport Schwartz II
1995 318ti Active Alpineweib III

Redline MTL is a gearbox oil 75W-90. Not recommended for BMW. Might be too thick. Still better than running dry though but you'll never know what it's doing to your synchronizers.
BMW recommends ATF, Dexron or Pentosin.

[AnuketTi]

Considering the advance of oil technology, I'm going to look for a synthetic ATF to use to flush and refill the tranny. Not sure how to flush it on jack stands though.

[BlackBMWs]

Redline MTL is a gearbox oil 75W-90. Not recommended for BMW. Might be too thick. Still better than running dry though but you'll never know what it's doing to your synchronizers.
BMW recommends ATF, Dexron or Pentosin.

Interesting, I know using this in my 5 series manuals have made shifting smoother and quieter. Thanks for the feedback, I'll research further.

Cheers! :cool:

[AnuketTi]

Redline MTL is a gearbox oil 75W-90. Not recommended for BMW. Might be too thick. Still better than running dry though but you'll never know what it's doing to your synchronizers.
BMW recommends ATF, Dexron or Pentosin.

Interesting, I know using this in my 5 series manuals have made shifting smoother and quieter. Thanks for the feedback, I'll research further.

Cheers! :cool:

This is interesting as I was considering using something thicker in the tranny as I figured thicker would mean smoother shifting and less wear and tear at operating temperatures.

I can see how it might make for stiff or sluggish gear shifts when cold... but are there any other issues heavier transmission oil can cause?

Would a synthetic oil have any negative effect on the transmission? Can different oil additives impact anything inside the box?

[BlackBMWs]

This is interesting as I was considering using something thicker in the tranny as I figured thicker would mean smoother shifting and less wear and tear at operating temperatures.

I can see how it might make for stiff or sluggish gear shifts when cold... but are there any other issues heavier transmission oil can cause?

Would a synthetic oil have any negative effect on the transmission? Can different oil additives impact anything inside the box?

What I have experienced is that with BMW fluid in my 5 series trannies, I had reverse gear shifting issues when cold. With Redline, those issues disappeared and felt smoother. Out of satisfaction there, I carried that over to other manuals. I haven't ruined a tranny yet, and one of them was still running strong at 432k miles. :cool:

[AnuketTi]

What I have experienced is that with BMW fluid in my 5 series trannies, I had reverse gear shifting issues when cold. With Redline, those issues disappeared and felt smoother. Out of satisfaction there, I carried that over to other manuals. I haven't ruined a tranny yet, and one of them was still running strong at 432k miles. :cool:

Would I be right in saying there are no electrical components inside the manual transmissions on these cars? If that is the case, other than potential cold shifting issues I can't imagine what other detrimental effect a thicker oil / lubricant would have on the transmission.


On another Note: Apart from keeping the car level and having a pump handy, are there any other procedures or tips to refilling the manual transmissions? I would like to flush it out, but don't have the appropriate pump to do this... so it looks like it will be a drain and fill process for me.

[BlackBMWs]

While there may be better methods, I just get the car level on stands and use a Harbor Freight hand pump to fill quickly. I used the little bottle pumps, but heck. two strokes and your done to me beats pumping many time with the little bottle pumps. :rolleyes:

Next time the Norcal crowd meets, maybe we can organize a tech maintenance day where we address simple maintenance points like this.

and BBQ. :cool:

[paul somlo]

Would I be right in saying there are no electrical components inside the manual transmissions on these cars?
You would be right.

I've been using Redline D4 for two years now. I started using it after a partial rebuild of the gearbox, so I can't really say whether it improved shifting or not. It is interesting that the folks at Metric Mechanic recommend plain old ATF for best shifting.

[bazar01]

Would I be right in saying there are no electrical components inside the manual transmissions on these cars? If that is the case, other than potential cold shifting issues I can't imagine what other detrimental effect a thicker oil / lubricant would have on the transmission.
.

there is one electrical switch for the reverse light but it is sitting on top and rides on the reverse shift rod. it's sealed so no worries.

If you are in CA, where weather is nice and don't get a lot of below freezing temps, cold shifting may not be a problem with heavier gear oil. But be ready to switch immediately to ATF if you notice some notchy shifting or grinding to prevent synchro wear.

[AnuketTi]

You would be right.

I've been using Redline D4 for two years now. I started using it after a partial rebuild of the gearbox, so I can't really say whether it improved shifting or not. It is interesting that the folks at Metric Mechanic recommend plain old ATF for best shifting.

Cool! Thanks! I was checking on the Redline D4, it almost sounds like the MMO or Snake Oil of transmissions... LOL! :biggrin:

It is for just about all automatics and manual transmission across a broad range of brands and models. Does this mean there is a fair amount of BS from manufactures asking customers to use a specific OEM oil only?

I might try the D4 since I can acquire it for a good price or another more advanced Synthetic.... and maybe slightly heavier.

there is one electrical switch for the reverse light but it is sitting on top and rides on the reverse shift rod. it's sealed so no worries.

If you are in CA, where weather is nice and don't get a lot of below freezing temps, cold shifting may not be a problem with heavier gear oil. But be ready to switch immediately to ATF if you notice some notchy shifting or grinding to prevent synchro wear.


Thank You. Good to know. I am indeed in CA and in the Bay Area, we get cool weather but never freezing type weather. I think for now, I am going to stick with an advance ATF, probably a synthetic.


By the way, does anyone know if I have to flush all the old oil out or can I just drain and refill? I wondering if there is a risk of incompatibility with the existing oil.

Maybe do multiple changes over the course of 500 miles?

[jca]

Considering the advance of oil technology, I'm going to look for a synthetic ATF to use to flush and refill the tranny. Not sure how to flush it on jack stands though.

An alternative to flushing would be to drain and fill now, then drain and fill again in 5000 miles or so. John

[AnuketTi]

An alternative to flushing would be to drain and fill now, then drain and fill again in 5000 miles or so. John

My primary concern is the compatibility of the oil I put in and what might be in there right now.

It looks Red, so I would assume it is ATF of some sort. I am thinking of replacing with a synthetic ATF, or something like Dexron Synthetic.

[zoner]

My primary concern is the compatibility of the oil I put in and what might be in there right now.

It looks Red, so I would assume it is ATF of some sort. I am thinking of replacing with a synthetic ATF, or something like Dexron Synthetic.

If you let the gearbox drain completely (on a level surface), there is not going to be enough residual oil in there to be problematic if you refill with ATF.

While BMW does recommend ATF for these gearboxes, I know people that have used standard gear oil (GL-4 only!) with no problems. On some gearboxes (e.g Borg Warner WC-T5) it is critical to use ATF because of lined friction surfaces on the synchros.

I've used Redline D4 ATF in both of my ti's gearboxes with no problems. Shifts like butter!

[AnuketTi]

If you let the gearbox drain completely (on a level surface), there is not going to be enough residual oil in there to be problematic if you refill with ATF.

While BMW does recommend ATF for these gearboxes, I know people that have used standard gear oil (GL-4 only!) with no problems. On some gearboxes (e.g Borg Warner WC-T5) it is critical to use ATF because of lined friction surfaces on the synchros.

I've used Redline D4 ATF in both of my ti's gearboxes with no problems. Shifts like butter!

There is a sticker on the side of my transmission that says ATF..

[COOPERDB]

This is one of the subjects that I came here looking for

information on -

Great Thread ---