Custom M44 Eaton Supercharger Build-- Long Overdue

[TheDude]

Hey guys, I have been a long time member on Bimmerforums.com, but there is a lack of enthusiasm for anything non-6 cylinder+ car mods.

Anyway, I have had my Ti since 2008 and have always loved the drive, but eventually the need for more power got to me. Unfortunately I cannot afford to buy a 3000$ supercharger kit, which although a great kit does not have an intercooler, and i have never been interested in turbos all that much.

So my long dream was to modify the M44 to accept the Mercedes Eaton M62 and make it intercooled. The biggest problem with this is the M44 Intake Manifold. The K2 kit uses the lower half of the M44 manifold, and personally i never liked that concept.

I ended up using the Late 80's Early 90's M42 Intake Manifold from an E30. With some wire relocation, vacuum relocation and modification to the firewall/cabin airfilter cover it fits just fine. You do have to use the E30 M42 Valve Cover for the PCV port to fit with the Manifold.
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I decided if I was going to do all this work, I may as well rebuild the engine while im at it.:biggrin:
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[TheDude]

The build went as planned, small port job, and general cleaning, changing all bolts and seals. Also had the head machined (very slightly), did the valve lap and porting myself. To get the Valve springs off, i just cut and welded an old socket onto a C clamp Works great!:wink:
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[TheDude]

The E30 Valve Cover lacks the "Cam Oil Sprayer" system that the M44 has, but with a drill, Aluminum welding rods, tap set, bolts and a spare M44 valve cover, you can modify the E30 to fit all of the M44 Valve Cover Guts.
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[TheDude]

I also changed out the Thermostat (which was completely stuck inside). Also is it just me or are the removal bolts on these thermostats completely useless?:confused:

A few extra pics of the Lap job and Head Port job.
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[TheDude]

A little paint makes it all look better!
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Now that the engine is all fresh and clean, I was able to start the design for the Supercharger

[TheDude]

Now that the manifold is figured out, I had to decide on a bracket design. The final design came out to be a piece of plate steel floating on a Unistrut Rail which involves the use of 2 pieces of Unistrut welded together and bolted to the existing M44 intake manifold bracket (unused with the E30 manifold). This rail sits on the Alternator. This will allow me to adjust the Supercharger to ease any belt problems. The pictures only show, the rail.
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[TheDude]

Now that the rail is in place i started the fabrication of the plate that the Supercharger will fit on. One of the hardest parts of this project was deciding on a belt tensioner design. I ended up using the tensioner from a Nissan Quest, because its all self contained and no bigger than 6 inches long for the whole assembly. So it was welded to the Supercharger Plate.
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In between days i rebuilt the SuperCharger.

[TheDude]

For Fuel uses, i am using the BEGI/Cartech RRFPR. Identical to the one in the DASC kit. For injectors i am using 20 pound Bosch Ford/volvo injectors, any standard Bosch injector will fit in the E30 Intake manifold/fuel rail. I plan on getting a piggyback + bigger injectors down the road, but this will work fine for now.
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I added 2 other brackets to the supercharger just to ensure durability and 0% movement once adjusted to the correct location according to where the belt lays. For the main bracket i used a steel turnbuckle, attached to the front supercharger bolt, this allows me to adjust in a different axis. and for the other i used a piece of strip steel and attached it to the rear supercharger bolt and connected it to the intake manifold.
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Also had to change the stock radiator hose to a flexible universal hose, and pulled it out of the way using HVAC strapping strip. I originally attached it to fan shroud but, i didn't feel entirely safe trusting the fan shroud to hold such a vital hose in place, so i put a bolt in the front clip, all of which should be covered up with the plastic panel cover when finished.

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

Sweet man thanks for posting lots of pics

[TheDude]

Thanks JohnBoy! I have to keep reminding myself to take photos of my progress on small parts and pieces.

Continued:
Heres the start of the intercooler pipes, the inlet to the supercharger i ended up using the stock mercedes manifold......modified of course, i chopped it short ground it down and stuck some RTV silicone around it and squeezed on a 90 degree silicone connector. I also drilled a hole in the back of the manifold for the Bypass valve to reroute idle air to the Intake Manifold.
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This is an overview of the engine bay with *Most everything hooked up.
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Here's a close up of the Manifold inlet, it is connected to the cold side of the Intercooler. The Bypass valve air comes in the connection on top.....(yes thats a pvc hose, i am still looking for a 1" rubber hose....
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The picture sucks, but you might be able to see it.

[TheDude]

Next was the Supercharger outlet that routes boosted air to the intercooler. I have this pipe pointing toward the passenger headlight, and the hood still closes! :tongue:
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I made this from a Stainless steel Commercial Electrical 2.5" conduit cut at an angle and welded to a 1/4" Stainless piece of plate steel.....what a pain to grind without ruining the integrity of the gasket surface. I have painted it since the last photo.

[TheDude]

I plan on running the Throttle body behind the driver headlight. The stock Throttle cable does not fit, so i had to use an aftermarket JEG's unit, 48" and had all the hardware for $25. Easy to install, just remove the old cable and remove the firewall plug. The Jegs unit has a threaded pipe that the cable goes through and clamps the firewall with nuts.
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Then i had to lengthen the wiring for all of the sensors <MAF, TPS and ICV> I added an extra foot just in case, because it would suck if i had to modify a design and rewire the harness again......

Thats about as far as i am now, I have the intercooler installed, and i installed a vacuum manifold to clean up all those hoses. I do have to weld a custom pipe to connect the intercooler to the intercooler pipes (the pipe kit i bought did not have the materials to make the turns i had to have.

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

I'm very impressed. The roots style SC really heat up the charge air. Intercooling will net you some big HP gains. I have not seen a 318 with intercooling except one that was water cooled. Totally rad build dude

[TheDude]

Thanks! I have been dreaming it up for the longest time, and finally got around to doing the work, i should be able to start her up by next weekend. Its actually been a running joke in my family......:frown:

Anyway Really excited, cant wait to take it for a spin. .:cool:

This cars been begging to get on the road,
I rebuilt the whole suspension system about 2 years ago, and its been sitting for around 1.5 years, due to a bad Catalytic Converter and muffler.

Heres whats under the car now though:

ZHP 3 point Steering Rack
Relocated Steering Resevoir
AKG poly Diff mount
AKG poly Control arm Mounts
Energy Suspension poly Sway Mounts
328ci motor mounts
Rogue Engineering Tranny mounts
All links/balls new Lemforder
Bimmerbum Urethane trailing arm mounts
new cat
new o2 sensors
homemade Magnaflow muffler -resonator

And a brand new Stage 2 Clutch and 15 pound M3 Cromoly flywheel

I also redid the sound system, deadmatted the whole car, and about to paint after i'm finished with the Supercharger.

Like i said, it needs to be driven, it seems like all i do is work on it....and not drive it.

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

I think your stage 2 clutch most likely will slip. I don't want to pitch parts on your build thread but I have a Spec Stage 5 kit. Billet Alum flywheel at 9#, Stage 5 disk and pressure plate. Here is a run on my car with a Stage 3 clutch, You can see in the video the clutch totally blows out the complete run.


Video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1FIM8sBtjss

Make sure you turn up the volume so you can here the boost slam this 2.1L stroker motor :biggrin:

[TheDude]

That is killer. Your gauges look BA at night. I hope it doesn't slip, I didn't really think I would ever have the supercharger finished when I bought the clutch kit. Any problems running a 9lber?

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

That is killer. Your gauges look BA at night. I hope it doesn't slip, I didn't really think I would ever have the supercharger finished when I bought the clutch kit. Any problems running a 9lber?

No problems with the 9# flywheel, 100% no bad effects just faster rev. Stock Flywheel is like 21 or 23 or 29 pound, can't remember. The rule is every 1 pound of any rotating mass removed is the same as removing 15 pound off the car. This rule includes rims, tires, crank or anything that spins.

It was like removing a 200 pound passenger when I went with the light flywheel

[TheDude]

Wow, good to know. I think the kit i bought is either 15-14 pounds, which by itself is wayyy lighter than the m44 stocker, i think it was 28lbs.

I decided on the chromoly steel one just out of "potential" durability. I have not used the AC with my flywheel though, because i recently snapped the threaded tab off the condenser bracket. Any issues with using LTW flywheel +AC? Rattle or slip?

[TheDude]

Here is a small update, I worked on the Throttle body plate adapter this morning, its almost ready for welding. Ill probably have it done tomorrow morning (i usually work on the car in the early morning before i head to the gym.)

This is the Plate after initial drilling
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Here it is with the final shape cut into it and deburred/round the edge.
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Then i rummaged around the garage and found some left over 2.5" crush bent exhaust pipe that i cut at a drastic angle to reach the pipe going to the supercharger inlet.
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The plate looks really long, but i plan on bending part of the bottom to connect with the airbox anchor tabs that are in the engine bay to assist in holding the throttle in place. Ill add another picture tomorrow to show how its all connected.

[TheDude]

Ok finally had some time to work on the car. Finished with the throttle adapter and installed it, linked the gas pedal and wired up the MAF, TPS, and ICV.
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After the throttle, i finished the charge pipes using an aftermarket Ebay 2.5" intercooler pipe kit and my Intercooler is a CX Racing, surprising quality for both kits. I chose Black charge pipes so the engine bay looks somewhat stock.

Then i took some time zip tying wires and hoses. I used some tin snips and clipped some plastic off of the old Fresh air pipe cover (the one over the Fan Shroud) Once clipped, it fit nicely in the engine bay and covers some space giving an oem look.
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[TheDude]

So, now that the bulk of the work is done, i just have to run through my checklist and make sure im not forgetting anything prior to start up, and making sure the charge pipes are all securely fashioned.

Now for the bad....... I went to close the hood and the Main Air intake pipe is sitting about 0.5"-0.75" too high for the hood to close "Correctly". It will close with enough force, but you can tell looking at the fenders that its not correct.

So the intake pipe going to the Supercharger is connected using the Stock Mercedes pipe which was cut, ground down and pointing up, then i shoved a 90 degree Silicone elbow pipe on that and connected the air intake pipe.

I may be able to cut a little off of the silicone elbow to lower the pipe, but i don't know how effective that will be.

What kind of thoughts or suggestions do y'all have on cutting a square out of the hood and using a Cowl Scoop (Closed of course, like the E90 M3) more of a bump on the hood. I will be repainting the car this summer, so the paint isn't a problem. Let me know your thoughts!:biggrin:

[BlackBMWs]

You are The Dude! Nice build! :cool:

[TheDude]

You are The Dude! Nice build! :cool:

Thanks! It was a fun project, I should have it started this weekend. I am a little wary on starting it without an AFR-Controller, but I may crank up the RRFPR dial and see how it turns over and runs.

The Hood is still concerning me, since the pipes are all together and I have everything fitting, I am scared to modify anything.

Maybe ill post something in the Bodywork section to get some ideas for Hood modifications that won't turn my car into a Civic....:eek:

[BlackBMWs]

Experiment with a spare E36 sedan hood till you get what you want then modify your long term hood.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[TheDude]

Experiment with a spare E36 sedan hood till you get what you want then modify your long term hood.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thats not a bad plan, I bet i can get a hood on CL for around $50, the 4dr hoods are never wanted.....
What do you guys think of this? I can tape the area off, cut in and then epoxy and rivet this down and blend it in with bondo. I just don't want it to look like a muscle car hood... but 2.5" tall is pretty conservative. A 1"-1.5" would be be better, but i haven't been able to find one that small....yet. :biggrin:



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[TheDude]

Or this.....$38.00
Description:
Overall Dimensions: 24 " L x 23" W x 1.5 " H
Dimensions include 1" flange.
Mesh grill comes pre-installed as shown in picture.
Material: hand laid fiberglass with blue surface gelcoat.

I think this might be the winner.

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[roadrash]

Personally, I'd do everything possible to avoid altering the hood. If you have any kind of bump or vent, you'll lose the element of surprise because people will know that there's something "different" about your engine. But, that's just me.

[TheDude]

Personally, I'd do everything possible to avoid altering the hood. If you have any kind of bump or vent, you'll lose the element of surprise because people will know that there's something "different" about your engine. But, that's just me.

I know, the Sleeper aspect is a definite appeal.....especially to our trunk impaired 4 cylinders, but I think I may go with the "Euro" one and reverse it into a Cowl Scoop, so the scoops grill will be aimed at the windshield, and if i don't like it; then ill go buy another hood and readjust the intake and anything else preventing the hood to close, then go to paint. Thanks for the input guys, keep it coming!

[TheDude]

Hey guys, update, i finally had enough money to go buy a battery and start the beast up. started no problem and runs but its really rough at idle.

no check engine lights, so i got out of the car while it was running and found that at idle all of my 90* silicone couplers were being vacuumed (sucked inward) i think there may be a problem with the bypass valve.

the bypass i bought years ago when i was planning everything was an ebay Forge knock off, it came with no paperwork, but i was able to find the same unit online. Its a nice unit, but the springs it comes i believe may be too hard for my boost levels. it has an option for either:

Yellow - 15-23 PSI
Blue - 23-30 PSI
Red - 30 + PSI

So i ordered a spring kit off of forges website which offers the same 3 springs, but it also has a 4th spring which has a range of 5-15 PSI.

Question is, do you guys think this will fix the vacuum on the couplers? I know i am not pushing 15+ psi so the spring should be changed anyway. I am probably in the neighborhood of 5-8 psi.

[EPP]

Find an old Eclipse/Laser/Talon or even an old Shadow hood damaged in the junk yard w/ the "power dome" - raised area on passenger side to clear the dual overhead cam (4G63) engine. Cut the dome out and install it like you were going to do the scoop. Unless its a BMW owner, most people won't realize it's not stock! Just a thought :wink:

[TheDude]

Find an old Eclipse/Laser/Talon or even an old Shadow hood damaged in the junk yard w/ the "power dome" - raised area on passenger side to clear the dual overhead cam (4G63) engine. Cut the dome out and install it like you were going to do the scoop. Unless its a BMW owner, most people won't realize it's not stock! Just a thought :wink:

Not a bad idea, i used to have a 96 Mits- Eclipse, engine was like swiss cheese. rebuilt twice, if i still had the card then that would be easy. I actually found a fiberglass bump online somewhere, but i kind of like the idea of the cowl reversed scoop.

I can actually shut the hood but the driver side sits up about a 1/4 inch higher than the fender. I havent tried to adjust anything yet though.

Anybody have any thoughts on the bypass valve?

[EPP]

That may be more than 1/4" once the engine flexes under power! :wink:

[TheDude]

That may be more than 1/4" once the engine flexes under power! :wink:

Didnt even think about that, :rolleyes: you know when the car sits for over a year in the same place you kind of forget it actually goes places and that things move around. looks like time to order a hood scoop.:biggrin:

[midomidi2013]

Here is a small update, I worked on the Throttle body plate adapter this morning, its almost ready for welding. Ill probably have it done tomorrow morning (i usually work on the car in the early morning before i head to the gym.)

This is the Plate after initial drilling
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Here it is with the final shape cut into it and deburred/round the edge.
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Then i rummaged around the garage and found some left over 2.5" crush bent exhaust pipe that i cut at a drastic angle to reach the pipe going to the supercharger inlet.
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The plate looks really long, but i plan on bending part of the bottom to connect with the airbox anchor tabs that are in the engine bay to assist in holding the throttle in place. Ill add another picture tomorrow to show how its all connected.

I decided on the chromoly steel one just out of "potential" durability. I have not used the AC with my flywheel though, because i recently snapped the threaded tab off the condenser bracket. Any issues with using LTW flywheel +AC? Rattle or slip?

[EPP]

I run a 9# chromoly flywheel on my WRX, never had any issues w/ accessory drive. I even run underdrive pulleys on everything but a/c w/o issue.

[Fluxcapacitor]

Great write-up! If I ever go to a bigger supercharger I'll be pouring over your pictures for ideas! :) I had no problem going to a light weight flywheel (lower rotational mass helps acceleration). Idle might be slightly less even & a heavier duty clutch will engage a bit rougher, but I don't even notice it anymore :) Stock Transmission& clutch is ok for up to maybe 160 to 180 hp? Oh! I would upgrade your injectors higher than 20 lbs or else keep boost psi & horsepower low to start! The last thing you want to do is to run lean under boost (pre-detonation can damage engine) I have the same engine as JohnBoy (MM2100 FI) running 14 psi boost & I have 42 lb injectors. That size injector is a little over kill for me (I'm only at about 260 hp). Stock injectors were 18 lb if I remember correctly?, and the Downing Atlanta stage 3 kit used 28 lb injectors? Here's a sample calculator: http://fuelinjectorclinic.com/flow-calculator

[Fluxcapacitor]

Oops, I read too fast; you're using the rising rate fuel pressure (from a stage 1 DA SC kit?) That will increase pressure under boost and get more out of your 20lb injectors. The stage 3 kit if I remember correctly, gets rid of the RRFP gizmo entirely and instead just uses 28 lb injectors. The advantage of using bigger injectors is that when you go open loop (boosted hard acceleration), then the open loop "maps" already in the computer will now be "magnified" by the ratio of your new injector poundage relative to the stock (18 lb) injectors. The stock fuel pump works fine at 28 lbs. but if you push the envelope of the M62, eventually you'll want more flow rate than the stock fuel pump can deliver ;) If I remember correctly, Metric mechanic put in a Ford Mustang fuel pump in my car (drop in fit apparently) to increase flow rate, but you probably won't need that until you get well over 200hp. (a Wide band O2 sensor can help keep an eye on how lean or rich you're going under boost)

[TheDude]

Flux, thanks for your posts! This is my first FI build, so your input is much appreciated! I am in the "tuning" stage, i know you cant really tune with an RRFPR and i hope to get MS one day. I finally got my 5-15 psi spring from forge and i removed the low profile 90' coupler on the intake/back of supercharger, it was getting sucked in to the point of not sealing at idle. I instead Fiberglassed a new 90 with pieces of intercooler pipe and West Marine G-Flex so the glass will move with the aluminum under heat. the difference is huge. The car idles great, and i am able to drive it around fine. It pulls much better than stock but i am running into a small issue. Whenever i Blip the throttle or tentatively crawl with my foot lightly on the gas the engine revs then bogs down and stalls. i can "nurse" the pedal a little and keep if from stalling but i can just imagine pulling my hair out in traffic. I Think it may be: TPS (didnt have an issue before build, but who knows) Fuel pump dying? (stock since i have owned car at 40,000. Now at 120,000) RRFPR not adjusted correctly(i don't have an Wideband yet) Muffler not connected/airleak? (crappy homemade muffler-Temporary) Boost leak/vacuum leak- tested some areas but need to see for sure Any comments or experiences that could knock any of these off the list or validate them?

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

If you want real power do a Nick G stage 3. It will have 30# injectors with EV-1 style adapters plus you install a 1995 3" MAF from a M3 or 528i, must be a 1995 for direct plug and play. The DME will be flashed with a new tune and all you need is a smaller pulley on the SC from Pulley Boys and you will be flying.

I ran a Walbro fuel pump and it was good for little over 500hp 28psi and meth shot

[TheDude]

If you want real power do a Nick G stage 3. It will have 30# injectors with EV-1 style adapters plus you install a 1995 3" MAF from a M3 or 528i, must be a 1995 for direct plug and play. The DME will be flashed with a new tune and all you need is a smaller pulley on the SC from Pulley Boys and you will be flying.

I ran a Walbro fuel pump and it was good for little over 500hp 28psi and meth shot

Yeah, i think the fuel pump should probably be swapped anyway, i am pushing it for how old it is now. i should probably test the TPS just to be sure.

Do you think Nick's tuning would still work even though my build is somewhat different than the DASC? I have an intercooler and different Intake manifold. I wonder if this would affect the tune?


As for a pulley, i cannot source anything off the shelf, the supercharger i have is the Mercedes M62, and is not keyed like a standard Eaton Charger.
I called Pulleyboys, but they didnt have any splined pulleys, mostly keyed.


Mine has a 26 spline shaft, the only pulley i could find that would fit is an A/C pulley from a 528i. This particular SC had a Clutched pulley, but i welded the A/C clutch pulley together and bolted to the Shaft and have it hooked up like a traditional SC, with a bypass valve to reroute the air at idle.


John, you have any thoughts on the stall after touching the throttle?

[TheDude]

Something like this had my thoughts for awhile:

http://www.sdp-si.com/web/html/newprdshafts2.htm

its a spline to keyway adapter, but they get pricey, then to buy a pulley. Probably just as much as if i just went and had a pulley made.

This was the biggest dilemma i ran into during the build. Actually still looking for a good smaller pulley. Alot of the Mercedes tuners ran into this problem and had to resort to a smaller crank shaft pulley.

Though, i just thought of this, my SC is driven off a pulley i have attached to my PS pump, i Could just find another smaller pulley that would run fit my PS pump and not touch the PS pulley.

[TheDude]

Ok.... so still working on the stalling problem, I found one of my temporary vacuum caps on my aftermarket Vacuum manifold was cracked and allowing un metered air in. I capped this port for future use of a VDO boost gauge.

Unfortunately my daily drivers battery died and i had to steal the battery from my ti, (between payday) so i haven't had the chance to see if this little fix ultimately fixed my stalling between rev/idle problem.

I will be getting a new battery this weekend.

But before i found the vacuum cap, I was thinking my problem was fuel related because the car just dies right after a slight tap of the pedal. Which made me think my RRFPR was to blame, because it idles fine, drives fine, but once i just let off the gas it just dies without the throttle being "nursed" back to idle.

i noticed that my "supposed" BEGi RRFPR looked way different than any i have seen online. See photos:

[TheDude]

I emailed Stephanie over at BEGi for some help, she asked for photos, but i haven't heard back after that. She has been very willing to help though.

I noticed that ALL of the other RRFPRs have a Signal input barb, base fuel pressure adjustment, needle valve and either a check valve hanging on the end second vacuum line or a barb built into the needle valve to connect a vacuum line with check valve.

Mine does have a restrictor in place of where the 2nd barb would be, and from what i have read, the restrictor allows a small amount of air to move both in and out depending on the pressure the RRFPR is operating in. Where a check valve allows only air to exit.

I have limited knowledge of how the RRFPR operates so my description of the components above may not be totally correct.

So my question is, can i (should i) simply remove the restrictor and tap the hole and insert a barb w/ 1 way check valve?

Any thoughts? :confused:

[Fluxcapacitor]

Oh! stock fuel pump is fine for well over 300 hp. All the stock replacement pumps for the 318 are rated for over 45 gph. (Gas is a little over 7 lbs/gallon, so 45X7 = 315 lb/hr)
Even if you went up to massive 42 lb/hr injectors (good for way over 300hp), you would only be using 42x4 = 168 lb/hr total

[Fluxcapacitor]

Re rough idle, I'd check for vacuum leaks foist (spray brake cleaner near potential leaks to see if it speeds up?) & then take off the idle valve & spray brake cleaner through it to make sure it isn't gunked up (avoid wd40 like the plague; it will dry out & gunk up!). I once had a pinched wire for the tps that screwed up the idle too. Had a flakey connector for the idle valve once too. (wiggle wires/connectors while it's running to rule those out) It's usually a vacuum leak tho.

[Fluxcapacitor]

Re rrfpr, yours is different from the dasc one & the only thing I can remember about the dasc one is that it had an air pressure fitting that went to the boost side of the supercharger & then it had two fuel pressure lines that both went under the car to the stock fuel pressure regulator/filet assemby (under the drivers leg area) and that it bypassed the stock pressure regulator (to boost fuel pressure whenever sc went into boost. You probably already know all that tho. If you ever go to huge injectors you'll need the adapters that JohnBoy mentioned. You can get them from a stage 3 kit or seperately here:
https://store.vacmotorsports.com/vac---m44--m42-fuel-injector-adaptors-p2454.aspx
People who got the stage 3 kit don't sell them cause they use them for even bigger injectors :) You might find a copy of the software that's not being used tho (I think if the original owner doesn't use it anymore it perfectly ok to send a copy?) You'ld have to get the procedure for uploading it into your dme tho (requires a non-noisy big battery charger to keep battery volts above about 13.5V during upload, as well as a cable from laptop to OBD port under dash (can't remember the correct variety off the top of my head) Oh, and jumpering two connectors inside the circular data connector under the hood.

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

Yeah, i think the fuel pump should probably be swapped anyway, i am pushing it for how old it is now. i should probably test the TPS just to be sure.

Do you think Nick's tuning would still work even though my build is somewhat different than the DASC? I have an intercooler and different Intake manifold. I wonder if this would affect the tune?


As for a pulley, i cannot source anything off the shelf, the supercharger i have is the Mercedes M62, and is not keyed like a standard Eaton Charger.
I called Pulleyboys, but they didnt have any splined pulleys, mostly keyed.


Mine has a 26 spline shaft, the only pulley i could find that would fit is an A/C pulley from a 528i. This particular SC had a Clutched pulley, but i welded the A/C clutch pulley together and bolted to the Shaft and have it hooked up like a traditional SC, with a bypass valve to reroute the air at idle.


John, you have any thoughts on the stall after touching the throttle?


TPS sender is bad or vacuum leak is my guess. John S

[TheDude]

Re rrfpr, yours is different from the dasc one & the only thing I can remember about the dasc one is that it had an air pressure fitting that went to the boost side of the supercharger & then it had two fuel pressure lines that both went under the car to the stock fuel pressure regulator/filet assemby (under the drivers leg area) and that it bypassed the stock pressure regulator (to boost fuel pressure whenever sc went into boost. You probably already know all that tho. If you ever go to huge injectors you'll need the adapters that JohnBoy mentioned. You can get them from a stage 3 kit or seperately here:
https://store.vacmotorsports.com/vac---m44--m42-fuel-injector-adaptors-p2454.aspx

People who got the stage 3 kit don't sell them cause they use them for even bigger injectors :) You might find a copy of the software that's not being used tho (I think if the original owner doesn't use it anymore it perfectly ok to send a copy?) You'ld have to get the procedure for uploading it into your dme tho (requires a non-noisy big battery charger to keep battery volts above about 13.5V during upload, as well as a cable from laptop to OBD port under dash (can't remember the correct variety off the top of my head) Oh, and jumpering two connectors inside the circular data connector under the hood.

Re rough idle, I'd check for vacuum leaks foist (spray brake cleaner near potential leaks to see if it speeds up?) & then take off the idle valve & spray brake cleaner through it to make sure it isn't gunked up (avoid wd40 like the plague; it will dry out & gunk up!). I once had a pinched wire for the tps that screwed up the idle too. Had a flakey connector for the idle valve once too. (wiggle wires/connectors while it's running to rule those out) It's usually a vacuum leak tho.

Thanks for the Replies Guys!

Agreed on a possible VAC leak. I have a few couplers that were designed for a 2.5" Pipe (from my intercooler kit) but are attached on one side to a homemade adapter plate using 2.5 inch OD exhaust pipe, and they dont fit as tight as the 2.5" aluminum pipe for some reason. considering getting a 2.25"-2.5" reducer for these areas and stretching it on the pipe.

I cleaned the TPS when i cleaned up my throttle, but i didn't replace it, and its the same one since i have owned the car, and i have taken it off a few times and it floated around my garage during the build. Might be good insurance to get a new one. Ill check the wiring too, since i did lengthen the cables, there might be a ground/short happening.

The BEGi RRFPR is supposed to be used in conjunction with the Stock FPR, it is installed on the return line and when boosted it restricts the fuel from returning to the tank which raises the pressure in the rail. In idle it is supposed to open all the way up and rely on the stock FPR for Idle fuel.

But i just havn't seen a BEGi RRFPR without a check valve, and i have never seen a photo with the restrictor installed, So i don't know if my RRFPR is even setup 100% correct, which i think may be causing the stall. i can see the restrictor for sale on BEGi's website, but theres no install instructions for this little 3$ piece.

I am also using 20lb injectors from a Volvo/Thunderbird. I don't have to use the Nick G' adapters since my manifold is the E30 M42 manifold which aren't the Air shroud version.

Ill check the couplers this weekend and let you guys know how it all works out.

You Guys rock, keep the thoughts coming! :biggrin:

[Fluxcapacitor]

Were you able to fix idle? The rrfp shouldn't be holding pressure for more than a fraction of a sec. It's not impossible, but it would need a "springy" volume of gas combined w/ a restriction (like an "RC" circuit will hold a charge longer the bigger the capacitor or resistance). Fuel filter housing might be springy, but I'm guessing it's the TPS like Johnboy said (I once did a cold solder of one of those tps wires in the middle of winter up here in Boston & a year later the idle started screwing up due to that "cold" solder working loose).
Oh, Johnboy, it's Don. I bought the MM engine identical to yours immediately after you got yours (I think I even got your trade in engine block ;)

Dude, if it's not the tps, you can check to see if idle goes to rich by buying one of those bluetooth obd2 devices that connects wirelessly to your smart phone (avoid the cheap blue or white knock off's! & get the green one that goes for about $70 as that one will last & not drain your battery overnight either. Oh ignore software that come with it & download the much better "Torque" android app) You can make custom displays with Torque & look at the raw oxygen signal data & see if it pegs one way or the other.

[TheDude]

Were you able to fix idle? The rrfp shouldn't be holding pressure for more than a fraction of a sec. It's not impossible, but it would need a "springy" volume of gas combined w/ a restriction (like an "RC" circuit will hold a charge longer the bigger the capacitor or resistance). Fuel filter housing might be springy, but I'm guessing it's the TPS like Johnboy said (I once did a cold solder of one of those tps wires in the middle of winter up here in Boston & a year later the idle started screwing up due to that "cold" solder working loose).
Oh, Johnboy, it's Don. I bought the MM engine identical to yours immediately after you got yours (I think I even got your trade in engine block ;)

Dude, if it's not the tps, you can check to see if idle goes to rich by buying one of those bluetooth obd2 devices that connects wirelessly to your smart phone (avoid the cheap blue or white knock off's! & get the green one that goes for about $70 as that one will last & not drain your battery overnight either. Oh ignore software that come with it & download the much better "Torque" android app) You can make custom displays with Torque & look at the raw oxygen signal data & see if it pegs one way or the other.


Flux, Thanks for your message, i did actually fix the problem. I went ahead and changed the "restictor" on my RRFPR, and it had no effect. I also checked the wiring on my TPS & IAC since i lengthened both sets of wires to relocate the throttle, but the continuity of both sets of wires was solid.

The problem ended up being a HUGE boost leak just like Johnboy said. It was located right after my MAF, i guess i didn't tighten it enough and then started messing around with my trottle body, and that area is a huge vacuum since that pipe dumps straight into the SC, and since my SC is constantly belt driven theirs always a vacuum on the post MAF, pre SC section of pipe.


I also adjusted the way my throttle opens up. I am using a universal throttle cable so it was kind of recreating the BMW throttle setup with homemade parts and pieces found at various parts stores. The JEGS universal kit i bought has an adjustment screw on it, but it does not allow you to tweak it like you can with the Stock OEM adjustment screw.

I replaced my TPS with another TPS i had laying around. I went ahead and changed all my vacuum lines to thicker emission tubing from goodyear (looks like really small radiator hose) The car runs really strong now, and pulls great. No Check engine lights, and no weird noises. Bypass valve works like a champ, can hear it chirp between vacuum and boost.

My exhaust sucks and sounds like a damn lawnmower, since its a homemade magnaflow+no res+ autozone pipe. I am saving up for a decent Walker or may just hold off and go for the Stromung. But other than that the car is getting ready for paint, i am working on the hood now trying to make it as low profile as possible. I only need a half inch more space, so i am going to try this :

http://honda-tech.com/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/my-approach-hood-clearance-%2Awrite-up%2A-2224664/

Great info in the above thread, and the result looks amazing, worth a shot since i can find a replacement hood pretty easily.

[Fluxcapacitor]

Great to see you fixed the idle! :) Re exhaust; I had a nice sounding supersprint muffler that sounded good on a stock engine, but then after an engine replacement w/ the higher flowing MM engine, the exhaust got REALY loud. Couldn't hear the stereo loud :) All I did to fix it was put in a BIG & LONG magnaflow resonator before the muffler and that made the exhaust sound poifect (nice low frequency rumble) A resonator before the muffler is like a capacitor bleed-off before a resistor ie it eliminates the high frequency noise ;)

[TheDude]

Great to see you fixed the idle! :) Re exhaust; I had a nice sounding supersprint muffler that sounded good on a stock engine, but then after an engine replacement w/ the higher flowing MM engine, the exhaust got REALY loud. Couldn't hear the stereo loud :) All I did to fix it was put in a BIG & LONG magnaflow resonator before the muffler and that made the exhaust sound poifect (nice low frequency rumble) A resonator before the muffler is like a capacitor bleed-off before a resistor ie it eliminates the high frequency noise ;)


Indeed! i didnt realize how loud it was gonna be when i chopped it off.:eek:, i do have a new 15 speaker sound system and dynomatte in my ti, so it blocks most of the sound. But neighbors watch me go by and look really pissed or confused.

I actually ended up messing with my exhaust because my first Catalytic converter was rusted through and i needed an exhaust but didnt have the cash for a decent system, so i welded some pipe together and it worked great for awhile, then it all fell apart, i was able to spare the cash for a new Walker cat off of Rockauto, but i built the muffler i have now for like 65$.

Now i am trying to find a used Remus/Stromung/SS muffler or buy a new Walker QuietFlow for $225. Finding used TI exhausts is hard.......:frown:

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

I ran 3" pipe from the down pipe to the back. 2 3" resonators and a 2-chamber 50 series Flowmaster and it sounded perfect. No drone or fart can sound just nice and mellow until I got on it. Glad you are getting it all finished up. Nice build.


Just read a little, how are you Don? Sorry to see it go but I sold mine 2 months ago. Hope you are dooing well. Also that motor can handle 500hp constant and spikes even higher, good build by MM

[Fluxcapacitor]

Johnboy! long time no talk! (I tried e-mailing a while back but your old rr e-mail doesn't work anymore). Sorry to hear you sold your car! (I'm betting it put out the most HP of any 4 cylinder 318ti ! :)
If you're interested in the exact same MM engine, let me know? (you'd have to buy the whole car tho ;)

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

New email for all: No1Be4Me@gmail.com

Perment email for rest of my life

Lost the old one with my old ISP. I use a 4G phone for internet now. Gotta cut costs when times are tough