My BMW is not too good

[melssat]

Hi. I bought a 1995 BMW 318ti in October 2004. Since I purchased it I have had to get a new drivers side window regulator, ball joint, rotors, brake pads, and caliper. Now, I am faced with having to buy another window regulator with a window because the clips are missing that hold the window in right. So, if I roll the window down and shut the door the window falls out of place. Since the caliper problem I have had constant squeaks and smells. I have paid out so much and these parts are not cheap. Any ideas?

[1996 328ti]

Well brakes and rotors are consumables. Any car will need them. Not sure what happened to your caliper.

The window sounds like it has broken plastic bushings. Many of use are plagued with it. I replaced my bushings a couple summers OK and have had no problems. The regulator is bent slightly but functional. There is no need to replace the window. Just a few dollars in parts unless the regulator is completely bent.

[aceyx]

if you purchased the regulator at a bmw dealer it should still be under warranty.

if you took it to a random mechanic, you're SOL, but it may explain the squeaks and smells.


EDIT: typo.

[marcus2116]

the plastic clips are like 2 dollars i had same prob just fix it and adjust it yourself thats what i did for both pasenger and drive side once

[Phil Marx]

So, if I roll the window down and shut the door the window falls out of place. Any ideas?
Sounds like you may be missing one or both of the rubber/felt pieces that fit in the window guide channels. They fall out if you don't glue them in. Or the rear guide could be bent or broken from the last regulator failure. Also, if the new regulator was installed with the adjustment on the lower diagonal arm mounting bolt slid the wrong way, the window can fall out of the track when lowered.

Trust me, I know it's frustrating. We've all either been there or will be eventually.

[melssat]

The smells and the squeaks are coming from under my car or somewhere. The caliper was ruined and the mechanic kept thinking it was the hose. They would tell me it was fixed and I would drive the car with considerable power loss (the caliper was actually stuck, trying to stop the rotor and I was driving against this resistance!!) and my wheel has actually turned a darker color because it got so hot. The mechanic actually lied to me at the end and said he put a new caliper on it. I drove it and it got hot. I took it to another garage and he said the caliper that was on it was old and it was probably just my old one as it didn't appear to have been changed. So, they ordered a new caliper ($299.99 for just the part- after a month of not having my car)My car was fine before all of this. It ran like a dream. Now, I am plagued by burning smells, squeaks from brakes or somewhere. As for the window, it needed the regulator when I first got it. However, the clips or whatever they were were messed up. So, after I have the new regulator installed they tell me that the only way I can get those clips is to get a new regulator with the window kit. I hate to pay that much more money out for something they overlooked in the beginning. It is not my fault they were not thorough in diagnosing the problem initially. I bought this car because it was my "dream car" and now I cannot afford to keep having all this stuff done to it. I am just at my wits end.

[robcarync]

my car is the same way...something is ALWAYS breaking on it :(

[motorsport]

BMW does not know how to make windows, i dont know why. i have 2 broken windows right now, the regulator arms are bent on both of them. im to lazy to fix it

[pdxmotorhead]

I've owner several different cars with similar failures.

A small preventative maintenance item seems to help.

I use Solder Seal silcone spray. Put the little tube on the spray nozzle and
use it to spray the tracks/guides every time you change the oil. Takes about 2
minutes to do and lubricates the two highest friction areas. Window binding
seems to cascade into failures in the lift system.

What I find is that the german auto companies suck at making rubber.
I've owned VW's, Porcshes, audi's and they all had problems with rubber
getting hard and brittle, usually in less than 10 years of age. If you have
a german car over 10 years old just plan on replacing any rubber parts.
Especially bushings, brake lines, and window/sunroof seals.

[BMWDRIFTER]

the clips are sold seperatley, the caliper has a list of $99 for a reman. I hate it when shops ream customers just because it is a BMW. That is why I now run my own shop. My last employer charged a lady $124 for a E-box fan that had a dealer list of $62 just because he knew they would have to pay it.

[aceyx]

What I find is that the german auto companies suck at making rubber.
I've owned VW's, Porcshes, audi's and they all had problems with rubber
getting hard and brittle, usually in less than 10 years of age.
um, how long is rubber supposed to last, in your opinion?

[cali-ti]

i was going to say, find a new shop! sounds like they are ripping you off and lying to you. ask around to find a decent and reputable shop in your area. if you're willing and able, i would also suggest starting to learn to do some maintenance yourself. the cars are generally quite reliable when maintained properly. i have over 200k miles on my car and most everything has been routine maintenance issues. don't let poor experiences with a repair shop discourage you about the car, get a new shop!

[robcarync]

my window fell down today :( it was the one that fell down and i never really fixed it though. i still didtn fix it...i just eased the window up with some help so the window stays up now...but eventually ill have to call the shop and see if i can get them to drill out the rivets and replace the regulator...anyone have an idea for the cost of this project?

and my tint is really scratched up too...i need that fixed up too!

[96cali]

I've owner several different cars with similar failures.

A small preventative maintenance item seems to help.

I use Solder Seal silcone spray. Put the little tube on the spray nozzle and
use it to spray the tracks/guides every time you change the oil. Takes about 2
minutes to do and lubricates the two highest friction areas.

pdx- so you pop off the interior door panels to do this? Mine have not been a problem so far. Is this better than say lithium grease?

[pdxmotorhead]

um, how long is rubber supposed to last, in your opinion?

I've had German window gaskets die in 1 year. The "cheap" chinese made
ones last me > 10. Hmm... :rolleyes:

I've owned numerous american cars that wer over 40
years old with the original rubber in fine shape(With notable exceptions like the GM sunroof/t-top gaskets.....
I've never seen a porsche or VW with gaskets that looked good at
10 years. Most ar cracking or hard unless owned by a total enthusiast
who kept them treated.

Just my 2 cents.

Dave

[pdxmotorhead]

pdx- so you pop off the interior door panels to do this? Mine have not been a problem so far. Is this better than say lithium grease?

I only use the silicone lube (It looks like WD40) in the vertical
tracks at the front and rear of the window. I shoot a quick shot
(With the window down) in the top 1/3 of the track and let it run down
the track on its own. Then cycle the window a couple times.

I know there lots of reasons/places NOT to use a silicone product,
but the Solder Seal stuff (Yellow can) has few solvents in it. I've been doing it to all
my cars for years and it seems to keep the rubber and cloth tracks from
rotting and lets the window slide easier. I think the silicone makes the
material repel water and seals it so it doesn't get brittle ..

I pop the door panels about 1 time a year and use lithium grease on the metal track mechanisms.

I'm very careful not to get it on the paint or vinyl. But I've also used it
to wipe down sidewalls of tires (Use a rag don't spray) It makes tires
nice and black. Looks good for selling :)

Dave

[Phil Marx]

I hate it when shops ream customers just because it is a BMW. That is why I now run my own shop. My last employer charged a lady $124 for a E-box fan that had a dealer list of $62 just because he knew they would have to pay it.
I hate it when everybody, independents and dealers alike, try to charge BMW list-price for non-BMW parts. BMW has an exceptional parts warranty for OE parts. Some independents supply after-market parts yet bill them out, sometimes using BMW part numbers, at BMW retail price. I prefer to buy OEM parts from outside suppliers and keep the savings, but I do realize the warranty may be inferior or non-existant. I'm willing to take that risk if I'm doing the work. Unfortunately some parts, like window regulators, are either only available from a BMW dealer or are cheaper from the dealer than from an independent who has to buy it from BMW and then mark it up to cover their overhead.

On the other hand, I wanted to fire our BWM dealer parts manager when I found out he was selling non-BMW oil filters and filter o-rings to the dealer shop but sellling real BMW parts over the counter to retail customers. I only found out when an o-ring failed on a car we'd just serviced and we had to pay to resurface an asphalt driveway!