View Full Version : rear springs

04-21-2005, 04:50 AM
ok so i took my car to the tyre shop coz my back ones are worn alot on the inside. he said he wouldn't rotate them because they were too worn.

one thing he suggested was new springs at the back and that would reduce tyre wear on my rears. he said that would lift the back up or something.

does this sound true???? is what he suggesting a different type of spring??

04-21-2005, 05:16 AM
what do you have on there now? stock (active/sport) springs? usually sport or aftermarket springs will lower the rear, affecting the rear camber which will cause wear on the inside. i wouldn't expect that if you're still stock. if you went aftermarket sport and dropped the rear significantly, then you have to decide if the increased camber is something you want to deal with or fix with an appropriate rear camber kit. one i'm looking at (best one i've found) is ireland engineering. it requires dropping the rear subframe and welding the kit in though. from what i heard from others, the concentric adjustable trailing arm kits are a pain in the ass for the alignment shops to get "right." it adjusts both camber and toe NON-independently and they have to make compromises.

if your current springs are just sagging (somewhat hard to believe unless you have significant miles or your car sat unused a lot), a similar effect would be seen.

04-21-2005, 05:27 AM
i have a sport model with the stock springs. by my calculations i have 117,000 miles

i drive alot and just a bit worried since i have practically eaten up $300 (australian) tyres in about half a year. although they should have been rotated along time ago so its my own fault partially.

how will i know if the yare sagging>? waht exactly does a camber kit do?? make them not angle inwards as much?? adjustable??

my rear tyres sit almost pefectly level with the guard, the front ones there is a bigger gap

btw cali-ti i fixed the rattle in my trunk

04-21-2005, 05:47 AM
cool ... what was rattling? how did you fix it?

perhaps they could give you the current camber setting on the rear. i'm not sure what the best way is to determine if the springs have dropped from their original height. i remember someone complaining that the ends of his rear springs had broken (which could certainly account for a drop). make sure nothing like that has happened to you.

a camber kit allows you to adjust the camber (angle inward is as good an explanation as any) which i don't believe you have the ability to do stock.

04-21-2005, 06:00 AM
that sucks i wish you could adjust it when it was stock. does negative camber really make much difference in handling??? i dont get it, why would you buy a kit to stop it angling in so much, if it was really that beneficial to handling.

it was the wiring , i did have to get some of those rivets though , but i love being able to drive without it rattling hehehe

the place that did my wheels gave me a print out with all the settings like camber toe in and stuff. i honestly dont know what they mean, ill bring them to work tomrmorw and maybe someone yu can explain it to me :)

im trying to learn ....its happening slowly. i wish i had more time and money to learn spend on my car.

but right now its my second baby, after my girl of course and she gets most of my time and im basically dont have much money, still paying off my car :D

04-21-2005, 07:14 PM
springs generally don't need replaced unless they're cracked (mine were).

at 117k miles your rear shocks should be failing, if they haven't already. this will solve some of your camber problems (get them checked out).

however, camber in the rear is somewhat necessary; it's just how the trailing-arm suspension works on our cars. in a turn, it'll give you a bigger contact patch.

if you have components that minimize body roll, you should correct the camber. if not, leave it where it is.

04-21-2005, 08:24 PM
Camber impact on car,

On a race car,, 2 degrees of camber allows the car to go faster on the straights
because it lowers rolling resistance, and when the car shifts weight load as it turns in it plants the full width of the tire.

On the street you only want about a 1/2 degree because you arn't (Normally)
turning in hard enough to use the high camber angle effectively and as you found
out it wears out your tires...