Oil Pan Drain Stripped :(

[CirrusSR22]

Ever since I got my car a little over a year ago, I noticed the oil drain plug would not go in smoothly all the way. It would do like 4 full easy rotations, then get a bit firm for a half turn, then get easy again for the remainder. So I knew something wasn't right, but it never seems like too much of a problem

Well they finally gave out this time. I did a normal change and when I tried to put the plug in, it would not go in at all. I looked closely and I could pick out 2 full revolutions of thread with a micro screwdriver! So basically it wasn't cross-threaded, but I guess from overtorqueing it, the aluminium threads just ripped themselves out. Anyways, I used the microscrew driver to clean up the hole and I got the plug in cleanly and torqued to spec as I always do.

*You never know what you're gonna get with a used car!

An oil pan is >$300 and with labor it would probably be $800 total. I was also thinking of taking it to a shop and having it drilled and helicoiled, or just have it drilled and tapped with a bigger thread size, like 14mm.

But I think my solution is gonna be to buy a top-side oil extractor/vacuum.
http://www.toolweb.com/pics/MIT7400.jpg

It may be not the most thorough means, but it'll do the job. Did some research on www.bimmerforums.com and people seem to say they do an awesome job and extract a lot of oil. Whether it leaves residue or "sludge" at the bottom of the pan is still debatable.

No questions here. I just needed to vent a bit and write something for the archives :)

[nick_hegel]

Sorry to hear that CirrusSR22! I had a problem with my drain plug when I had a Valvoline do an oil change on my it. Some elderly retard broke the drain plug off and let me drive off in it. A few days passed and I noticed I was leaving oil stains everywhere. I went back to another Valvoline and they fixed it free! Good luck!

[CirrusSR22]

Geesh! Did the head snap off? I've read elsewhere that the drain plugs are designed to break before the pan strips.

I'm pretty sure the previous owner used a quick-lube type place, because the oil filter I originally pulled out was from Korea :rolleyes:

They probably give the wrench a nice hard tug on all the drain plugs and send'em out the door. I really don't trust those places.

[Mothman]

Hummm.... wonder if the Jiffy Tech (yea right!) did that to my car. I did notice a few days after getting an oil change I started driping really bad. How high up is that screw?

[cali-ti]

drain plug is the lowest possible spot on the oil pan. did you check around your oil filter mothman?

[Mothman]

No I need to get a flat area and lift my car up. Really afraid to get under a car while it's jaked up, lost two family members that way. Thier car just rolled off the jack and the brace mounts was not strong enough to stop it. =8o(
I think If I do get under it I would need a 2'x3' piece of lumber on both ends to protect me.

[Mothman]

I was changing my tire on the freeway once and this CHP stop to see if I was ok, and without warning my car just rolled off the jack. I had the E brakes on and everything. Both the CHP and I Caught the car and was able to put roll her back on top the jack mount. (Wheew!) We both thought it was weird! He looked in my car and saw that my E brake was all the way up. I just shruged my shoulders.

[pdxmotorhead]

Jack stands are natures way of reinforcing Darwin's Theories.
Don't use them and you prove him right.

As my old High School shop teacher used to say.
"I've never heard a jack apologize for failure."

I've had no less than 5 jacks fail in my lifetime on cars I'm working on.
2 of them were 1500 dollar proffesional models.

Even Harbour Freights 20 dollar a pair jackstand specials are fine.

Dave

[cali-ti]

btw mothman, you won't need a jack or jack stands to check your oil filter. open hood, look in :)

[GDB]

I had a stripped drain plug when I got my car. I pulled the old plug out and JB welded in a Fram quick drain plug. I've been using that ever since with no problems.
I am leary of topside changers because it seems to me like they would leave more residue and gunk in the bottom of the oil pan than a conventional oil change would.

[nick_hegel]

Geesh! Did the head snap off? I've read elsewhere that the drain plugs are designed to break before the pan strips.
Well I had the oil changed by my work up in NE mpls. This is where the old fart broke the plug as he was taking it out. The head of the plug and about the first three threads were all that came off. It still drained the oil, so the retard kept going and just screwed the busted plug back on :blink: . I went to a Valvoline by my house and they were able to get the busted thread piece out with a screwdriver, then they replaced it and filled up the oil and all for free. So it wasn't a horrible experience in the end!!! :biggrin:

[bimmerboi318]

For a stripped drain plug they make oversized self-tapping drain plugs. The only problem is that the oil pan kind of surrounds the drain plug's head and I'm not sure if an oversized one would fit. If you get a new oil pan (pretty much the only REAL fix), it shouldnt be TOO expensive to install. I'm only guessing but I wouldnt think it would be much more than a couple hours of labor. The engine does have to be jacked up so the pan can clear the subframe. I wouldnt use the vacuum thing to change oil either.

[sKunkman]

Wow I've never heard of this being a problem...but I always do my own oil changes anyway. I trust jack stands enough to do little maintenance...but nothin serious or majorly involving.

[L84THSKY]

I do all my oil changes on plastic ramps I got at Auto Barn.

As for major work, I go to my brother's house, he has a drive on lift. :evil_lau:


Wow I've never heard of this being a problem...but I always do my own oil changes anyway. I trust jack stands enough to do little maintenance...but nothin serious or majorly involving.

[GDB]

For a stripped drain plug they make oversized self-tapping drain plugs. The only problem is that the oil pan kind of surrounds the drain plug's head and I'm not sure if an oversized one would fit. If you get a new oil pan (pretty much the only REAL fix), it shouldnt be TOO expensive to install. I'm only guessing but I wouldnt think it would be much more than a couple hours of labor. The engine does have to be jacked up so the pan can clear the subframe. I wouldnt use the vacuum thing to change oil either.


I looked high and low trying to find an oversize drain plug for my car. I never found one so that's why I went the Fram/JB route.

[bimmerboi318]

eh, the oversized drain plugs arent really an application specific thing. They should have a small assortment at any napa or other parts store. Thats why I dont think they'll work. They're not specific enough to our cars. They work on stuff like neons and minivans pretty well. But it's more like a last resort before actually buying a new pan or other expensive repairs.

[John W]

The exact same thing happened to me two months ago: My drain plug would not go back in all the way and oil leaked from the plug hole. I bought a new plug from the dealer (it was less than $3) and that (so far) has solved the problem.

Try this first since it is so cheap and easy. If that doesn't work, try some red loc-tite on the new drain plug.

[GDB]

The exact same thing happened to me two months ago: My drain plug would not go back in all the way and oil leaked from the plug hole. I bought a new plug from the dealer (it was less than $3) and that (so far) has solved the problem.

Try this first since it is so cheap and easy. If that doesn't work, try some red loc-tite on the new drain plug.


All loctite will do is make it a pain to get the plug out, if it is actually getting threads. This is just a temporary solution, I would not do this if I were you.

[bimmerboi318]

I think RTV might be more appropriate than loctite. Although I'd try to avoid that path altogether.