m50 finally in with mods!

[hsvbama318ti]

Well everybody I have not been on these forums in forever. I have been as busy as could with all the swap stuff taking place along with work. I put the m50 motor in from 92, and I absolutely love it. At first I was let down when i found out it didn't have it but now I am happier that it doesn't because it has hotter cams than the other makes did and only paid $90 for it anyway. I guess there are always trade offs with everything. But oh well i will get to what all I have done to it. Tms chip, headers into custom exhaust without cats and resonators, dynomax straight through muffler, custom intake, polyurethane front to back, buttstrutt, rear shock tower brace by cosmos, racing dynamics front brace, x-brace, zionsville aluminum radiator, aluminum thermostat housing, engine fan delete, spal aux. fan, uuc clutch line, hawk hps pads, brembo rotors, goodridge stainless teflon brake lines, aa short shift kit with uuc selector rod and delrin bushings, spec stage 3 clutch for 1.8, jb racing light weight flywheel for 1.8, stock getrag 5-spd, stock rear end for ti, air temp sensor mod, removed back seat, spare tire, tool kit, rear hitch, and washer fluid reservoir, also put in bav auto high output coils, cosmos intake heat shield, running all synthetics: ate super blue brake fl., redline tranny, amsoil diff., mobil 1 motor, pentosin and water wetter for radiator, cosmos pressure reg., debadged, dtm front lip spoiler, angel eyes, other various small mods, tuned and tweaked.

Next Phase: Throttle body, zex nitrous with small shot (50-75), possibly 3.91 gears

Final Phase: Supercharger, head tweaks

I love it, and would recommend anybody going with a motorswap. I still and will always love the 1.8 because of its reliability, but there is only so much you can do to it.

[socal318ti]

pics?

[Dredder]

I wouldnt recommend 3.91 diff. you are better off staying with 3.45 or lower gearing. If youre planning on all those hp update then my recommendation would be 3.23.

[needle332rur]

How Fast, I Have A 95 Vanos Thats Going In This Winter.

[stormos]

PICS! i want to do the M50 swap eventually. repairing everything else first, like the interior and the small spots of rust on the body. grrrr

[hsvbama318ti]

I will post pics very soon. and needle332rur you will love it!!! The car is extremely surprising. I heard so much that you cannot use 318 parts from the tranny and rear end. BS!!!!!!!!!!!! Use those parts I used the flywheel for 318 even though it is lightweight aluminum and the 3.45 rear end. The 3.45 also has 162000 on it and i tested it before putting it back on and it is like new with no play in the shafts. I think that these simple drivetrain parts contributed to the power of this car.

Also 92 cams are hotter with a more aggressive grind. I don't know if there is a difference (i didn't really care) but the motor is from europe and i have documentation for proof I will take pictures of that as well.

Cars Raced: 05 sti with intake and exhaust - I lost by 4 lengths he hooked beautifully I had some spin
88 corvette (stock)- i beat the car horribly. several lengths.
89 corvette z51 with head work, cams, and other internals with headers and exhaust (documented 13.057 1/4 car) i lost by 2 lengths (very close)
99 trans am ws-6 (stock)- from third gear, even all the way out with both of us pulling on each other
galant v4-4 with mods (i don't think it was running up to par)- i beat by 4 lengths
97 trans am with mods (headers, "chip", cams, exhaust, internal work)- i got beat bad
04 gli jetta 1.8t with exhaust and intake- i beat the hell out of that car. Those are some of the slowest pieces I have ever seen stock. They are very potent though with just a few mods. I have witnessed what a k-o4 swap, a chip, and a trip to arp in auburn, al will do.
I am not very big into drag racing though, these races happened primarily after I first got it back about three weeks ago during that first week to see how my car really made out.

[needle332rur]

man, you gota get some pics ur making me all excited!

[Dredder]

what are you dyno' at. You say the you have the M50. is it the m3 or 328/325?

[m-technik_ti]

You say the you have the M50. is it the m3 or 328/325?

m50 = 325 engine

[Dredder]

us engine code
M50 B30 = E36 M3
S50 B30 = Euro M3

[m-technik_ti]

us engine code
M50 B30 = E36 M3
S50 B30 = Euro M3


hmmm.....All i can find on the net is s50usb30 = U.S. m3 3.0l & m50b25= 2.5L

Here's an example: http://www.bmwccbc.org/resources/teile/enginecode.html

[hsvbama318ti]

I have not done a formal dyno on the car yet. I will get to that shortly when i get the A/F ratio meter on to crudely tune on the motor some more. Also the motor is a german spec m50b25.

[hsvbama318ti]

I like this swap first off because I got a really good deal on the motor, but also even if i had not a 2.5 goes for approx $900. A 3.0 goes for $2500 on up. Keep in mind both of those motors are of the same block. If you know what you are doing and what year motors are hot you can completely screw a stock m3 easy with the right choices. I am also talking about using this swap in our 318ti cars. Keep in mind a lot of this boils down to power to weight ratio stuff and gearing. Our car have 3.45 gears as opposed to 3.21 give or take a few and also our cars weight 2734 stock as opposed to over 3000 for the others.

[Dredder]

engine code = http://www.bmwworld.com/models/m3_e36.htm

hsvbama318ti, how much power do you think you are pushing right now

BS!!!!!!!!!!!! Use those parts I used the flywheel for 318 even though it is lightweight aluminum and the 3.45 rear end.
Im using stock 318ti fywheel and clutch combo. I have not change since birth of car

any 1/4 mile time?


needle332rur, I thought youre in the process of a swap

[hsvbama318ti]

We are estimating approx. 210hp and 220tq at wheel. Again an estimate but there has been significant weight reductions throughout the car, but with calculations and motor conditions we estimate it there, but with the change to lightweight parts or lighter weight parts and removal of some parts this may also play a role in quickness.

[needle332rur]

needle332rur, I thought youre in the process of a swap

YEA, well other things kept breaking on my car such as my motor mounts so i had to drop 150 on parts that are going to be off my car in a month or two. Thats only one example!

but, anyways i replaced all the seals in my motor and cleaned it all up. Just trying to do it perfect and thats why im taking my time, but when i read this it makes me wanna do it today.

[hsvbama318ti]

i would take my time with it to make sure its perfect. Another thing I forgot to state is that I had my swap done by the guys father who sold me my car originally. His father is a certified master tech who has worked with bmws for over 30 years and owned a shop that specialized in high po bmw work in Australia. He was actually trained in Germany. His cup of tea is with E30s. He can build unbelievable motors from those years that are n/a from those years, but can do anything on any years. I was really fortunate to have him do my work because he was very clean, smooth, and swift with out cutting any corners. The EWS system was the only problem presenter and that was a minor 1 1/2 delay. This work was also involving extensive suspension work at the same time and other various fabrication issues. He charged me a very minimal amount, and I mean minimal due to this type of stuff being a real passion to him. He is probably about 65 years old but you would never know it with the way he works and his work ethic is. Their whole family owns 1 '02 M5, 1 X5, 1 '90 M3, and 4 bmw motorcycles, which is what they are really into. The main things that i would recommend to anybody reinforcing on any of the m50 block is the radiator (go all aluminum it costs a hell of alot more but is better than have a motor meltdown), the thermostat housing to aluminum, the water pump to a metal impeller, and a huge thing is the coolant reservoir (just get a brand new one or if you can get one of the all aluminum zionsville units do that). Also another tip is if you are going to do polyurethane on either the motor mounts or the transmission mounts make sure you do both and do not leave one with oem rubber. This mainly applies to the transmission because I had uuc tranny mounts with the metal reinforcements at one point with the stock oem motormounts when I still had the 1.8 motor in and from the flexing of the drivetrain in the motor I sheared my passenger side tranny mount up top. Also I would recommend Ireland engineering over UUC in the polyurethane field any day of the week because ireland makes unbelievably quality products over uuc. The only reason I have uuc on my tranny still is just because they are still good, but if I had never purchased those in the first place before I found out the quality that Ireland had I would have got Ireland. Just make sure all the parts are quality pieces for no matter what it is, I have definitely found out that with our cars you truly do get what you pay for.