Guide Bolts - Seized Solid! - HELP!!

[stormos]

Guys, my guide bolts on the carriers seem to be fused solid, been spraying with wd40 2 times a day for the last couple of days with little effect, any ideas? also what direction should i be turning the bolts? i tried both but its hard to work it out.....

need to get the dismantled ready for the powder...

[stormos]

anyone?

[aceyx]

stop using WD40. PB-blaster works very well.

hit with a hammer or as a last resort, get at it with a propane torch (just make sure all fluids are GONE!)

[L84THSKY]

Do the calipers still work with the guide bolts frozen? I thought the caliper had to slide on those guide bolts to clamp on the pads.

On a side note, I know a guy selling some brand new performance ones on Ebay. :_paper:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7995735825&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT

Guys, my guide bolts on the carriers seem to be fused solid, been spraying with wd40 2 times a day for the last couple of days with little effect, any ideas? also what direction should i be turning the bolts? i tried both but its hard to work it out.....

need to get the dismantled ready for the powder...

[stormos]

i am talking the guide bolts onto the carriers. they'll still work, i just want them off ready for powder.

on another note the garage couldn't air blow the piston out today. aaaahhhhhh

[stormos]

PB Blaster isn't available in the UK either :(

[aceyx]

there's gotta be some type of specific penetrating spray.

WD40 is an acronym for "water displacement attempt 40," meaning that all it's meant to do is keep things from rusting. it does work as a lubricant, but not very well.


if you can't find anything i'll ask on my motorcycle forum for you.

[stormos]

i'd imagine i can get something from camberley autofactors tomorrow... i hope.....

[cali-ti]

is it just a matter of leverage or what? they shouldn't be put in with that much force. it's easier while still on the car, but should be doable off (i did it with the ones i bought used). as aceyx said, some penetrating lubricant/rust breaker would be best. if you have the carrier separated from the rest of the caliper, put it back into the guide bushings so you have a little more to use as leverage when trying to break them free.

[barische]

penetrating oil,, some times called the penetrating lubricant.

[toast27]

the trick with removing stuck bolts with heat is to not heat the bolt itself but heat the material that surrounds the threaded hole the bolts go into thus expanding the diameter. propane torch should provide suitable heat but be patient.use the tip of the flame and move the torch around the area to heat. don't be afraid to use some leverage either in the form of a long handled socket wrench or better yet a breaker bar.breaker bar is made to hold standard socket but has no ratcheting action. sometime you can blow out the ratchet before you can apply enough torque needed to loosen the bolt.

as always when working with an open flame take precautions . as some said earlier in the tread be aware of flammable fluids including and penetration oil use on the bolts. keep a fire extinguisher handy just in case.

liquid wrench brand penetrating oil has been around for years and work very good if you can find it.

good luck.

[aceyx]

watch your breaker bars; if the bolt is seized properly you can end up snapping off the head.

drilling out bolts = no fun. (trust me on that)

[stormos]

off to get the oil this morning..... oh joy.....

is it ok to use it on the piston aswell? as the guys in the garage could not air compress it out....

[cali-ti]

it won't hurt the metal, that's for sure. are you saying they used compressed air and they couldn't get the piston ejected from the bore? that would seem quite odd unless the pressure wasn't high enough. it does take a good bit (as well as a good seal on the hydraulic line fitting and a closed bleeder valve) to get it to pop out. when i say "pop out," i mean it. it shoots out so have a piece of wood on the other side for it to hit rather than the brake carrier or something else that might damage it. forget what psi we had to get the compressor up to for it to actually get it to move.

[stormos]

did you have to remove the dust boot first?

[cali-ti]

nope. something like 90psi seems to take care of that :biggrin:

[stormos]

just did the guide bolts done, been spraying penetrating oil on em since 9am. now.... only need the pistons blown, then off to the coaters. BUT the next issue is what colour.... red, 318ti.org blue or gold :)

[aceyx]

forgot to mention; i usually leave penetrating oil on overnight (spray liberally, put a drip pan underneath).

glad to hear it worked.

[stormos]

gonna drop the callipers off at a local garage tomorrow to get them blown out. hopefully it will pop out.

[cali-ti]

just did the guide bolts done, been spraying penetrating oil on em since 9am. now.... only need the pistons blown, then off to the coaters. BUT the next issue is what colour.... red, 318ti.org blue or gold :)

i prefer subtle myself. i went with anthracite (you can see pics in the gallery - probably already have). i hate gold :tongue: but you just have to choose what will work best for you and that you'll be happy with for a LONG TIME (powdercoating lasts!).

gonna drop the callipers off at a local garage tomorrow to get them blown out. hopefully it will pop out.

they will :) watch if you can just to see how they do it. really just a matter of having the right tools (need a good seal with the old brake hose or the inlet on the caliper).

[stormos]

i saw! would have done some serious damage if it hit someone or something :o probably enough to put a big ass dent in a car maybe even a hole ;)

now to finish dismantling then to powder coaters.....

[cali-ti]

glad to hear it went well. now i'll wait for the questions on getting them all back together with new seals :tongue:

[stormos]

heh, just dropped them at the coaters, they only do certain colours so its....

red, silver or black.... in that order of preference.

£50 for the pair! BARGAIN!!!

[stormos]

how do i clean the inside of the piston and outer lip? it has a bit of rust inside..... powder coater can't do the piston :(

[cali-ti]

sandpaper? then use anti-rust paint (like caliper paint) i guess. lame that the powdercoater can't do the outside lip and inner cup.

[stormos]

i was thinking hammerite spray paint. will it need to be high temp????

[cali-ti]

i don't know what hammerite spray paint is so i can't say. i would recommend high temp paint, yes. obviously, mine are powdercoated so ..

maybe use black caliper paint? won't really be seen anyway.

[aceyx]

what's the point of doing that? it's one thing to powdercoat the outside of the caliper but the entire exposed surface?

[stormos]

i hate rust! ;) and dirt.

[aceyx]

it's a car. it's gonna get rusty and dirty.

of course, i'm not the type to make my bed in the morning either.

[stormos]

i make mine on weekends ;)

starting to get pissed off with my Ti, costs too much to maintain and repair. maybe i should have taken a job closer to my house and bought a type r civic/integra :)

[cali-ti]

i make mine on weekends ;)

starting to get pissed off with my Ti, costs too much to maintain and repair. maybe i should have taken a job closer to my house and bought a type r civic/integra :)
how much have you really spent? when i consider how much i've spent over the 9+ years i've owned it, it's really not more expensive than other cars. i did neglect doing routine maintenance for a good bit and so had to do a little catch up. having done the repairs, i don't foresee large expenditures for such items again for quite a time.

consider the things you're doing with your calipers now. you may need to rebuild them again in another 50k or so, but otherwise you shouldn't have to do anything with them again. same with the subframe bushings.

i also hate rust and do what i do for longevity. it may seem obsessive compulsive to have the cups powdercoated, but i won't have to worry about them again and it's worth it for me.

[aceyx]

ah, well. peace of mind is priceless, can't disagree with that.

i spend under 1k on car repair/maintenance every year. a lot cheaper than any comparable new car and i don't freak out if i get a new door ding or hit a pothole i wasn't expecting.

[stormos]

had it 3 months, spent at least 1500.

[cali-ti]

had it 3 months, spent at least 1500.
and what have you spend that money on in repairing your ti? what mileage did it have when you got it? i'll certainly admit my repair costs have been concentrated in the last 6 months as well, partly do to problems and partly due to preventative measures. now that i think about it, more due to preventative and performance oriented improvements (rear camber/caster/anti-sway bar reinforcements, complete water hose replacement/radiator/water pump/water valve, front camber kits). if i was not planning on keeping this car for another 200k, i wouldn't have done all these things. i still have a number of things to do, including attacking the rust that's started on my hatch. that's probably my biggest priority for longevity right now. anywhere i find rust, i try to act quickly and with long-lasting results/protection in mind. so far, my answer has been POR15. anywhere i find rust, i brush off the surface, clean it up, dry it off, then use POR15 to cover it over. i've done this everywhere but the bottom edge of the hatch which is on the outside as black POR15 brushed on wouldn't look very good, lol. probably going to get a spray can with matching paint (like mickd did for his sport mirrors). if it doesn't look perfect, that's ok, i just don't want it rusting again. i already treated the inside of the hatch with POR15 in those areas where water drains through and can sit.

guess this is all a little off topic of rebuilding brake calipers, lol ...

[stormos]

RSFM - 200 fitted
Rear Springs - 200 fitted
Front Ball Joint - 200 fitted
Rear Brake Cylinders and Adjusters - 125 fitted
Front ABS Sensor - 125 fitted
Exhaust - 275 fitted (stainless steel)
Drive Belt - £50 fitted

+ servicing costs on top (300 ish)....

had it 3 months.

[cali-ti]

most of those will probably never need to be done again for the life of the car so ... unfortunately, you're just getting it caught up in some service and upgrades like me (you haven't enjoyed the 9 previous years of driving pleasure though :tongue:). you're setting it up for a long life so don't feel too bad :)

[stormos]

diff is making a noise too, checked out ok at the garage but a joint or summint must be on the way out....

[aceyx]

are you doing all this work yourself or sending it to a shop? also, are all those prices in pounds?

if you expect doing more work on this, it may be worthwhile to buy (decent) tools and do it yourself. you'll end up paying about the same, but you'll have a set of tools at the end. also, make sure they're insured (had mine nicked two years ago).

[stormos]

i always get the shop to do it. i just don't have the time really. but i wouldn't mind starting to service it once everything is mint condition.

[cali-ti]

i always get the shop to do it. i just don't have the time really. but i wouldn't mind starting to service it once everything is mint condition.
so ... never then? :tongue:

start with the small stuff and get a good basic set of tools (jack, jack stands, ramps, good metric tool set).

what sort of sound are you getting from the diff? i had a halfshaft pop out (passenger's side) but didn't notice it for a good while. even so, i probably could have just popped it back in and drained/flushed the fluid and been fine for years. i started looking for e30 lsd's though and went through that whole saga. the diff itself is pretty bulletproof (since we dont' have gobs of power being put through it).

[aceyx]

having time is a matter of making it.

i work what is essentially a 60-hour week, and i'm still able to find time to fix my car, go wakeboarding, or whatever. i don't even have a proper garage this academic year. i'll admit, some things aren't attended to at the expediency nor frequency i would prefer, but that's more prioritization than anything else.

most of the repair work you've stated is a one-day job, at most a weekend. call a buddy over that knows cars, get set up with basic tools (as cal-ti stated) and you'll realize how easy it is, and how much you'll save in the long run.

[stormos]

definetly need a torque wrench :)

[L84THSKY]

I just picked up this baby. :smile:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=5991093706&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT

I definitely like doing things myself as well. First off, I learn how to do it, second I reap the benefits of having the tools for the next time, and third I save money....win...win...win :rolleyes:
definetly need a torque wrench :)