Can we all agree on this?

[L84THSKY]

I've spoke to a few people on this site about the LSD mod, I wanna pursue. I have the diff and I have a plan to modify the 318ti half shafts.
There seems to be confusion on whether a 6 cylinder diff can use the stock halfshafts, and or modify the halfshafts to use the E30 flanges.
I've already spoke to people who have used the stock halfshafts and flanges in the 6 cylinder diff. That seems to be one option.
My idea is to take it one step further. Use the 6 cylinder diff, with the stock halfshafts, but swap inner CV joints and diff flanges to E30 6cylinder type.
Then I can have the proper flanges on my low mileage halfshafts. Cali-ti swears it's a bad idea, but Constant-Yu seems to have done the same thing on his writeup.
VigilanteMotors, another member, says that Constant -Yu swapped the outter flanges in the writeup, not the inner, and that the inners can't be swapped.
Here are exact words of Constant-Yu in his writeup, you tell me if he isn't saying exactly what I want to accomplish:
"OK then, what should be done about the axle flanges? We definitely need the larger bolts and inner CV joints to bolt to the E30 diff. So we're left with two options: either directly swap the E30 axles into your ti, or pillage the E30 inner CV joints to transplant to the ti axles."
Notice he says "INNER" cv joints, not outter. Inner means the ones attaching to the diff flanges. That is exactly what I wanna swap. We already know the shafts is the same diameter.
"Since I'm not ready to give up ABS quite yet, I had to swap the E30 inner CV joints onto the stock axles. Plus, the general condition of the 318ti axles was much nicer"
Again he says "INNER" joints. He does the swap for the same reason I am; my stock shafts are in better shape than any used E30 shafts. Of course I could buy re-manufactured shafts. Then I have to swap the hole shaft, and deal with the ABS sensor issue. Look at the first pic, you can see the outter side shafts on the 318ti side have a red color on the spline of the teeth. Look again at the finished shafts. The red splines are still there. That means he didn't swap the outter CV joints, but the inner, just as I have suggested.
"Pop off the dust covers from the inner CV joint using a screwdriver and hammer Remove the circlip shown under the dust cover in the diagram. You will need to clear off most of the grease in order to see it. A circlip removal tool helps a lot here, or else do like I did and swear and curse until you pry it off with a small screwdriver. After the circlip is off, you should be able to slide the inner CV joint off the splined axle shaft. If it doesn't come off easily, use a little "persuasion" with a hammer to knock it off. Do not hit the CV joint too hard, or you can ruin it!"
Not too hard to swap at all. And I could even just drop the shafts on the diff side, and swap CV joints with the shafts still attached to the wheels. Seems much easier than completely removing them.
Note: A shim or spacer may be needed on the rear ABS wheel speed sensors when installing E30 6-cyl axles."
Not necessary, with my stock shafts.
If anyone can explain why doing the same thing on my car is a bad idea, I'm all ears.
Again, here is my plan
Stage 1. Swap in 3.46 6-cylinder LSD using 318ti flanges and stock shafts.
Stage 2. Swap flanges to E30 and swap inner CV joints to E30, keep stock shafts.
Comments please:biggrin:

[1996 328ti]

I was unable to use my stock half shafts.
I did not do the swap myself.
All I remember that it was on my mechanics lift for a week waiting for halfshafts then different flanges to mate the driveshaft.

[L84THSKY]

I measured the total width of the diff with the 318ti flanges, and the E30 flanges. The difference in width was very minor. If the 318ti flanges can be used with 318ti shafts, then the width issue is not relevant.

I know I can go to stage 1. of my plan and swap diffs and use 318ti flanges. So I can atleast do that and work from there. I just can't see why I can't go to stage 2 of my plan.

I was unable to use my stock half shafts.
I did not do the swap myself.
All I remember that it was on my mechanics lift for a week waiting for halfshafts then different flanges to mate the driveshaft.

[cali-ti]

just to be fully clear, if you check with Constant Yu, after a period of time, he swapped to FULL e30 halfshafts. you're certainly correct though, he swapped the inner e30 CV/flange onto the ti halfshaft. do you have e30 shafts already?

the reason i'm opposed to it (for my own car), is the "cobbled together" effect. ie, you can't swap in a replacement halfshaft from any one source (ti or e30). if for some reason you ran into problems and needed to swap back ...

[DustenT]

Wouldn't it be easier to find a LSD from a Club Sport, than go through all this trouble? Everything bolts right up with mine. Is the e30 LSD better than the Club Sport LSD?

[L84THSKY]

That was the idea originally. Then I found the 3.46 E30 LSD. When I bought the supercharger, I knew I needed to beef up the diff.

The diff should bolt right in, as someone has already swapped to a 6 cylinder diff and kept the 318ti flanges and shafts.

Why spend another $500.00 for re-manufactured halfshafts. I can swap the inner flanges, just like Constant-Yu did.

If he did swap to E-30 halfshafts, I sure would like to know why.


Wouldn't it be easier to find a LSD from a Club Sport, than go through all this trouble? Everything bolts right up with mine. Is the e30 LSD better than the Club Sport LSD?

[L84THSKY]

I have 318ti halfshafts. I could pose the reverse argument. Why not do what I'm saying, cost less. Then if I run into problems later, I can always just order E30 re-man shafts and swap them in.

just to be fully clear, if you check with Constant Yu, after a period of time, he swapped to FULL e30 halfshafts. you're certainly correct though, he swapped the inner e30 CV/flange onto the ti halfshaft. do you have e30 shafts already?

the reason i'm opposed to it (for my own car), is the "cobbled together" effect. ie, you can't swap in a replacement halfshaft from any one source (ti or e30). if for some reason you ran into problems and needed to swap back ...

[Dredder]

Kiley_Sean has done this swapped the last I talk to him on the phone. As he mentioned all he did was swapped out the output flanges. He was using 6cyl differential with 318ti output flanges and 318ti halfshaft. FYI, he was also running a S50 swap, so the added power from a S/C shoudlnt be too much burden on the differential setup..

[cali-ti]

Kiley_Sean has done this swapped the last I talk to him on the phone. As he mentioned all he did was swapped out the output flanges. He was using 6cyl differential with 318ti output flanges and 318ti halfshaft. FYI, he was also running a S50 swap, so the added power from a S/C shoudlnt be too much burden on the differential setup..
how long did he drive it that way? was this the one that he later sold (if memory serves)?

EDIT: if bmw thought the smaller flanges would handle the power of the 6-cyl, why didn't they use them? i would hate to see something very negative (and potentially more expensive) happen to L8 and his car just because he didn't go with the beefier components. that's just the way i look at it. they'll certainly FIT, but that doesn't mean it's the best option. i wish i'd gone with reman'd shafts myself (and will probably do that in the future).

[Dredder]

I did remember him selling it. But I dont think the reason for him selling it was because of the differential issue, it was other issues. I also recall someone in this forum bought it. If we can track down the person then we can confirm to see if the differential was inded swapped out.

[marcus2116]

i had a 373lsd went to put it in becuase somone told me you can use the ti axels just swap output flange. didnt work. you have to run a hybrid axel.

[L84THSKY]

AMEN!!!
Someone is listening:mrhappy:
Kiley_Sean has done this swapped the last I talk to him on the phone. As he mentioned all he did was swapped out the output flanges. He was using 6cyl differential with 318ti output flanges and 318ti halfshaft. FYI, he was also running a S50 swap, so the added power from a S/C shoudlnt be too much burden on the differential setup..

[cali-ti]

I did remember him selling it. But I dont think the reason for him selling it was because of the differential issue, it was other issues. I also recall someone in this forum bought it. If we can track down the person then we can confirm to see if the differential was inded swapped out.
my point wasn't that he sold it because of any diff or halfshaft issues, just that he likely got rid of it before any issues may have arisen. the only thing i would be concerned about is longevity. it may or may not fail, it's just a concern i would have if it were my car.

[L84THSKY]

Leaving the 318ti flanges and complete 318ti halfshafts is a potential issue in the future. That is why doing just that is "Stage 1". By swapping to E30 flanges and inner CV joints "Stage 2", I have the proper sized flanges AND bolt pattern. The diameter of the shafts are the same. So you can't say an E30 shaft is any stronger than a 318ti shaft, once the flanges and inner joints are now E30 style.

my point wasn't that he sold it because of any diff or halfshaft issues, just that he likely got rid of it before any issues may have arisen. the only thing i would be concerned about is longevity. it may or may not fail, it's just a concern i would have if it were my car.

[Dredder]

read my current findinghttp://318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=7865

[KIRASIR]

Dredder,

The fact that ti flanges physically "fit" into medium pumpkin is old news. It's more a matter of HOW they fit. Since the ti flanges are shorter, the splines on the flanges will not completely engage the "teeth" inside the diff. This MAY lead to potential problems down the road, especially if the car is tracked and heavily modified. If you are willing to accept the risks then by all means e30 halfshafts are not needed for the swap and you can use the stock hardware. On the other hand, used e30 half-shafts can be had for as little as 100 bucks and they are direct fit.

Making hybrid halfshafts in my opinion is stupid - too much trouble and a reliability nightmare. Constant was forced to make the hybrids due to the e30 halfshafts having crappy ABS rings.

SL

read my current findinghttp://318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=7865

[aceyx]

It looks like the splines line up perfectly once you take into account the variance in where the outer seal is.

My issue would be that the flange itself isn't strong enough where the bolts mate up (note how the 6cyl flanges are built up near the bolt holes).

[Dredder]

Since the ti flanges are shorter, the splines on the flanges will not completely engage the "teeth" inside the diff. This MAY lead to potential problems down the road, especially if the car is tracked and heavily modified.
SL
This is where people in the forum get the wrong impression. If you look at the output flanges comparison there is litlte differences between the length. Remember the teeth(inside the diff)where the output flanges sits is very long. Dont just read about it. Take a look at it for youself. Deviation of less than 1/4" will not make a difference even if your going to track them. You are more likely to brake your axles first before you break the out flanges splines. Once you lock the output flanges into the differential, The only way I feel that this setup will break is if your pushing atleast 400rwhp(my guestimate) to that differential.

p.s. what do you consider heavily modified, would my setup by one? I have proven that you donot have to get ripped off for a 6 cyl engine swap. Remember my swap was not just performed by some shade tree mechanic like some have mentioned here.

edit: I fell that the weakest link would have to be the M8 bolts. 47lbs of torque vs. 70+lbs for the M10 (6cyl)

[cali-ti]

isn't the milled line around the flange where the lock ring engages on each flange? if so, look how much further inside the diff the 6-cyl flange will be compared with the ti flange! that's BIG. before i'd be convinced that'd you get full engagement of the teeth inside the diff, i'd want to see it inside the diff where it actually engages.

[Dredder]

isn't the milled line around the flange where the lock ring engages on each flange? if so, look how much further inside the diff the 6-cyl flange will be compared with the ti flange! that's BIG. before i'd be convinced that'd you get full engagement of the teeth inside the diff, i'd want to see it inside the diff where it actually engages.

Look at this comparison.
http://www.m3forum.net/gallery/uploads/40860/output.jpg
Notice where I drew the white lines. THeres little length differences.

now look how the 318ti flushes into the 6cyl diff.
http://www.318ti.org/gallery/data/531/medium/IMG_0484.jpg
You mean to tell me that the teeth are not fully engaged. Im not just reading this. Im doing this personally.

[cali-ti]

and they're both locked into the diff still at the point of being fully inserted?

[Dredder]

WHen you used the 3.73 and axles. What problems did you encounter? What about the ABS ring (or somesort}?

[cali-ti]

1) had to shim the ABS sensor (ABS ring on the e30 halfshafts was larger)
http://www.318ti.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=431&size=big&cat=500&ppuser=1131
2) there are different versions of the e30 halfshafts which use different length bolts to attach to the flanges (longer ones will be resting on the shield with the thinner mount point versions - i'll have to find my pic of it in my gallery)
http://www.318ti.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=445&size=big&cat=&ppuser=1131
http://www.318ti.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=446&cat=500&ppuser=1131
3) had one halfshaft with a bad CV joint (which is why i would recommend reman'd halfshafts from bmw)

[L84THSKY]

I did the same measurements. The 318ti flange looks like it seats deeper from the outside, and that makes the inner depth equal, as you noticed. The problem is now the width of the diff side to side is not as wide. That will require shims between the half shafts inner CV joints, and the diff flanges. Shims are listed on the REALOEM website for just this purpose.


Look at this comparison.
now look how the 318ti flushes into the 6cyl diff.
http://www.318ti.org/gallery/data/531/medium/IMG_0484.jpg
You mean to tell me that the teeth are not fully engaged. Im not just reading this. Im doing this personally.

[L84THSKY]

To elaborate on your picture, slip something under the 318ti flange to bring the two measurements you made side by side horizontally. Then you will see the part remaining on the outside is shorter. That reduction needs to be made up to mate with the CV joints of the halfshafts.

[QUOTE=Dredder]Look at this comparison.
http://www.m3forum.net/gallery/uploads/40860/output.jpg
Notice where I drew the white lines. THeres little length differences.

[L84THSKY]

I have a 3.46 LSD 6 cylinder waiting to be installed. I did the same comparisons. You are correct that the 318ti flange seats deeper, as looking from the outside. That may give you the same depth inside for the splines. Then the problem is the gap between the shaft cv joint, and the diff flange. In a previous post of this thread, I noted the gap size.

Look at this comparison.

now look how the 318ti flushes into the 6cyl diff.
http://www.318ti.org/gallery/data/531/medium/IMG_0484.jpg
You mean to tell me that the teeth are not fully engaged. Im not just reading this. Im doing this personally.

[96cali]

Seems like we could use an exact outside to outside width for both assembled versions. That would show what you need to make up. Then confirm it with the realoem flanges.

[L84THSKY]

I did that, but I didn't have a caliper that could measure outside to outside of both flanges. What I did was measure from a set point to the flange of the 318ti one, then the same point to the E30 one. The 318ti ones are a few millimeters short on both sides.

But as I said, the REALOEM site shows that you have options for shims to place between the flanges and the inner CV's.

Seems like we could use an exact outside to outside width for both assembled versions. That would show what you need to make up. Then confirm it with the realoem flanges.

[aceyx]

Shims still don't address the bolt-strength issue.

[cali-ti]

i'd love to try 6-cyl z3 or m-coupe halfshafts. anybody want to send me some? :)

[adrnln]

I've got a set of M Coupe halfshafts waiting to go in. Hopefully Monday when I return from the DEC I'll have some time to throw them in.

S

[J!m]

Ahhh... The joys of 'Disney engineering' stuff together...

Now I think everyone will now understand a bit better why I just swapped in the complete M roadster sub-frame asembly complete. I spent about four hours all told doing the swap, which included modifying the brake lines and bleeding the system out. (there's less than 10 bolts!!)

Now, I'd say that everyone on this post who has done some disassembly of difs, and/or dug through a bone yard (or was on the phone to one trying to explain things) has already invested that time, if not more. Then there is the cost. The old, worn E30 parts (which, as many have noted need CV joint or boot replacement and/or seal replacement) have a cost attached. A couple hundred perhaps? And, the NEWEST used E30 parts are 16 years old!

Now we look at the fact that with a "multi-stage approach" much of the sasme work has to be re-done. This costs more time (AKA money).

Then we asses that the strength of the (insert faviorite thing here; bolts, CV half-shaft, flange) may not be up to the task. The completed assembly has shims in the final drive? Not on MY car, thanks. (and if you want an explanation of exactly why, I'll do that in another post...) You have to find a bone yard while on your cross-country trip because you need parts from two differing 20+ year old cars...

All that costs money! Perhaps your time does not have value, but mine does! I invested (if memory serves) $1,100 dollars for the complete sub-frame, sway bar and springs (delivered!), invested four hours installing it, and I have heavy-duty EVERYTHING (sub-frame, half shafts, flanges, diff, finned cover, M3 brakes, trailing arms, bolts...). Sometimes you have to spend money, to save money. Or, for another one, "don't throw good money after bad". Learn from each other.

Don't get me wrong, I'm all for the quick, easy and cheap mod to wring that little bit extra, or finding a les expensive way to do the same thing. BUT, BE CAREFUL! as you can end up spending more in the long run; like leasing VS buying a car. The initial monthly payments are less, but if you go over mileage or decide to keep the car, you spend FAR MORE than if you simply bought the thing in the first place...

You guys are on the right track: research before spending...

[Dredder]

All that costs money! Perhaps your time does not have value, but mine does! I invested (if memory serves) $1,100 dollars for the complete sub-frame, sway bar and springs (delivered!), invested four hours installing it, and I have heavy-duty EVERYTHING (sub-frame, half shafts, flanges, diff, finned cover, M3 brakes, trailing arms, bolts...). Sometimes you have to spend money, to save money. Or, for another one, "don't throw good money after bad". Learn from each other.

I dont know about you but thats alot of money to spend on rear setup alone. Theres a few swapped members here that have spent less amount by just replacing the differential. They have a very solid setup. Im all for saving money. And you are right before you jump into a project you better do your research. Total, Ive spent $250 + some elbow grease for my 3.25 LSD with Mcoupe cover. It was not a necessity for me to replace my diff but I'm always driving on the freeway plus the added mpg i save is worth it.

[L84THSKY]

I agree; not to mention the difficulty in finding an Mcoupe rear end. Although if I could find one with a 3.45 LSD included, I would gladly pay the $1100.00 Did you get your diff in yet? You were gonna do some pics and a write up. I still wanna see how tight the 6 cylinder diff goes in with 318ti flanges. My diff is going in with the M-coupe cover too.

I dont know about you but thats alot of money to spend on rear setup alone. Theres a few swapped members here that have spent less amount by just replacing the differential. They have a very solid setup. Im all for saving money. And you are right before you jump into a project you better do your research. Total, Ive spent $250 + some elbow grease for my 3.25 LSD with Mcoupe cover. It was not a necessity for me to replace my diff but I'm always driving on the freeway plus the added mpg i save is worth it.

[J!m]

M Coupe rear sub frames are hard to find, but M roadsters are more common. These are essentially identical assemblies, but the spring rate is (as far as I know) slightly higher for the M coupe (based on the fact that the rear sway is slightly stiffer).

I have the M coupe rear sway, and had planned on swapping to the M coupe springs, but the roadster springs seem to be a good match for the Euro M3 front springs with the 3.2. If I find a deal on the M coupe springs, maybe I'll give them a try...

[cali-ti]

there any easy way to find a list of salvage yards that take/have bmws?

[J!m]

Bimmer and Roundel

[sprnova]

Jim,

Where did you purchase your complete subframe from?

[J!m]

I deon't remember. It's been a while now...

The guy was in MA, and he delivered it for me. When he forgot the springs, he just shipped them to me, no charge.

I may have found him/it on eBay, but I'm not sure now. It may have been through a classified ad in Roundel or Bimmer...

[andy]

Anyone have any updates on this thread?

The main thing I notice comparing my '91 318is diff, my two 318ti diffs, and a standard e30 3.73 diff is the e30 units' output shafts stick out quite a bit further than the 318ti output shafts. I need to do some better measurements, but the e30 halfshafts are shorter to make up for that.

Anyhow, it looks like we're close to nailing this down. Once we get the correct part numbers and proceedure down, I'm sure it'll be a lot easier.

I'm probably going to go with a 3.91 e30 diff, but then again, I'm more concerned with getting as much torque down instead of easy highway rpms. :)

[cali-ti]

i contacted adrnln and he confirmed the m-coupe halfshafts did NOT fit the stock ti hubs, the halfshafts are too large. there is supposed to be some of the 6-cyl z3 halfshafts that fit the ti, i'll have to see what i can find.

[L84THSKY]

After all this digging around about mating diffs to halfshafts, I finally concede. I'm gonna buy a pair of rebuild halfshafts and just do it right from the get go.

My question is, what is the latest year E30 that I can get rebuilt halfshafts for my 6 cylinder 3.45 LSD? If there are any Z3 halfshafts that fit, please let me know. What benefit would Z3 halfshafts have over E30 halfshafts?. Would my E30 flanges mate with z3 halfshafts?


i contacted adrnln and he confirmed the m-coupe halfshafts did NOT fit the stock ti hubs, the halfshafts are too large. there is supposed to be some of the 6-cyl z3 halfshafts that fit the ti, i'll have to see what i can find.

[andy]

After all this digging around about mating diffs to halfshafts, I finally concede. I'm gonna buy a pair of rebuild halfshafts and just do it right from the get go.

My question is, what is the latest year E30 that I can get rebuilt halfshafts for my 6 cylinder 3.45 LSD? If there are any Z3 halfshafts that fit, please let me know. What benefit would Z3 halfshafts have over E30 halfshafts?. Would my E30 flanges mate with z3 halfshafts?

Well, all you'd need were the inner CV joints, right? I'm getting close to this point, but haven't made it down to the salvage yard to check this out yet. And, unfortuntely, I haven't been able to get the measurements for a Z3 yet.

IIRC, e30 325is convertibles were made last in 1993.

[cali-ti]

btw, i would SWEAR (need to see if i can find pics) that the ti halfshafts were longer. i threw my ti shafts into the trash when i moved (just NO room) so i can't put them side-by-side with the e30 shafts installed, but that's what i remember.

[andyman7931]

would it help to have e30 shafts? I think I can dig up a set or 2.

[cali-ti]

e30 halfshafts work. there are TWO potential issues ...

1) the abs sensor rings on the e30 halfshafts may be a larger diameter than the ti shafts. make SURE you get e30 shafts for ABS!

RESOLUTION: shim the abs sensors in the hubs. i determined the needed shim distance and then found large washers as close as possible to that thickness and then used a grinder to shape them to match the hub/abs sensor (see my gallery)

2) they changed the e30 shafts at some point. if at all possible, get them from the same car or at least model year. why does it matter? check my gallery for pics, but the thickness of the mounting plates which attach to the diff flanges are different thicknesses and will require different bolts. the bolt part numbers are in the pic in my gallery.

L8, the advantage of the z3 shafts would be that they would be much newer than any e30 shafts (unless you get reman'd ones). the m-coupe ones do NOT work, but supposedly some of the ones for the smaller 6-cyl models do. I HAVE NOT PERSONALLY CONFIRMED THIS, it's just what i've heard.

[L84THSKY]

I understand trying to get the latest model E30 shafts you can, but if you are buying remanufactured half shafts, why does it matter what year they came from? That is so long as they are ABS model halfshafts.

I could always buy rebuilt 325I halfshafts, or even rebuilt Z3 halfshafts. I assume the Z3 halfshafts you are referring to are from the 6 cylinder models, not the 4 cylinder.

e30 halfshafts work. there are TWO potential issues ...

1) the abs sensor rings on the e30 halfshafts may be a larger diameter than the ti shafts. make SURE you get e30 shafts for ABS!

RESOLUTION: shim the abs sensors in the hubs. i determined the needed shim distance and then found large washers as close as possible to that thickness and then used a grinder to shape them to match the hub/abs sensor (see my gallery)

2) they changed the e30 shafts at some point. if at all possible, get them from the same car or at least model year. why does it matter? check my gallery for pics, but the thickness of the mounting plates which attach to the diff flanges are different thicknesses and will require different bolts. the bolt part numbers are in the pic in my gallery.

L8, the advantage of the z3 shafts would be that they would be much newer than any e30 shafts (unless you get reman'd ones). the m-coupe ones do NOT work, but supposedly some of the ones for the smaller 6-cyl models do. I HAVE NOT PERSONALLY CONFIRMED THIS, it's just what i've heard.

[cali-ti]

yeah, reman'd would be fine. that way you should get a matched set too (unlike my mismatched set :().

[L84THSKY]

I went to the local BMW dealer (Habberstad), and got a quote on reman halfshafts for my E30 3.45 LSD.

Total with BMWCCA discount is $292.00 each + tax. That is not including the core charge which is refunded.

I'm gona call Circle BMW now for their quote.

yeah, reman'd would be fine. that way you should get a matched set too (unlike my mismatched set :().

[cali-ti]

check with this guy and see what price you're quoted (email him as i think that may be the only way you get the nice discount - tell him i referred you from the 318ti forums too): Vaheh Bashikian, vbashikian (at) crevierbmw (dot) com

EDIT: if nothing else, you might be able to use it as leverage against someone closer to you (they're in CA and would probably be a little too far).

[L84THSKY]

I called Circle BMW. They quoted me $282.00 each plus core charge. No tax and no shipping; if I go get them. I also got the spacers, bolts and end nut for each halfshaft.

So the order of things will be

1. Flywheel/clutch
2. Body Kit
3. Shock/struts & Springs
4. LSD plus shafts.

check with this guy and see what price you're quoted (email him as i think that may be the only way you get the nice discount - tell him i referred you from the 318ti forums too): Vaheh Bashikian, vbashikian (at) crevierbmw (dot) com

EDIT: if nothing else, you might be able to use it as leverage against someone closer to you (they're in CA and would probably be a little too far).

[L84THSKY]

I will be picking up the halfshafts next week. Attached is a link detailing the flanges and associated parts. Can you think of any of these parts that should be replaced when doing the swap? My diff is in very good condition, and may not need any of these. But if there is something easy to swap on the flange or where it meets the diff, I would do it for safety sake.

The remans I ordered are for a 1990 E30 325i with ABS.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=1113&mospid=47309&btnr=33_0116&hg=33&fg=10



yeah, reman'd would be fine. that way you should get a matched set too (unlike my mismatched set :().

[J!m]

The seals may be a good idea... I

did my tranny seals just because I had it out. It saves aggravation later for the cost of a couple seals and some time....

[L84THSKY]

Which part in the web link are you referring to?

The seals may be a good idea... I

did my tranny seals just because I had it out. It saves aggravation later for the cost of a couple seals and some time....

[J!m]

Item 3 appears to be the output flange seal... There should also be a input yoke seal that would be worth changing if the diff is to be used for a while...

[L84THSKY]

I just stopped by Circle BMW on my way down to Aberdeen MD. Picked up the reman halfshafts and misc bolts, shims, nuts and seals. The whole mess cost over $900.00.

Got some stock antifreeze and brake fluid too.