No heater :-( [Archive] - 318ti.org forum

J!m

01-18-2006, 02:33 PM

So the cables are definately opening the heater valve? If so, and you are absolutely sure the system is completely devoid of air (the most common cause of heat loss), you have to start checking major components, such as the heater core. The core is NOT easy to remove, so you really have to be sure it's not something simple...

Juni

01-18-2006, 05:19 PM

This is funny because I seem the have these same problems. The Heater is only blowing luke warm air. I did burp the system, and refilled it with anit-freeze. I have yet to check the cable behind the glove box. I have a question though.......does the rear defroster work off of the heater? Because it seems that now that my heater isn't working properly that the rear defroster isn't working either.

J!m

01-18-2006, 05:35 PM

evalha007

01-18-2006, 05:52 PM

How long does it take for you car's heat guage to read in the middle? Mine only takes about 5-7 minutes when it is cold (around freezing)

A month or two ago my thermostat was working but not correctly, it would read in the middle, but took a long time to get there, also on occaision it would read too hot or too cold...at the same time my water pump went out and blew the whole engine...

I would definately get your thermostat checked...

Juni

01-18-2006, 06:08 PM

Juni:

Since the heater is not working, AND the rear defroster is not working, I'd start checking fuses.

The blower and rear resistor are on different fuses, but if the fuse box became contaminated with salt water (salt from roads and a bit of rain for example) the copper will corrode quite quickly!

Any other electrical problems?

I haven't noticed any other problems, but now that you metion water and corrosion. :eek: It was raining when I was installing my euro headlights over the weekend.......altough I was under a tarp, maybe some water did get in there and mess something up. But if it were a blown fuse for the heater, wouldn't the blower stop working altogether? I mean, it still blows air, its just not hot air.

J!m

01-19-2006, 01:40 AM

yes, I would expect it to stop all together... It can't hurt to check!

I would also 'burp' it again. When you burped it last time, did you heat-cycle it? IE did you let it get up to operating temp, then cool all the way down (with a full overflow) and then check the level again?

It's a pain-in-the-ass procedure to properly burp the ti, but not as bad as bleeding the clutch in an E36...

bobrezaee

01-19-2006, 01:45 AM

I guess I am going to try to blurb the system 1 more time. I have done it about 3 times. I also pushed on the heater valve tubes which were VERY hot. We will see what happens.....:confused:

Juni

01-19-2006, 02:10 AM

Tyler

01-19-2006, 02:15 AM

Well, to be truthful, when I burped the system, I lossend the "plastic screw" on the top of the radiator, then I revved the engine a bit to get it to come out. Is that the proper way? Or should I wait for it to spill out on its own? Should I have the heat on full blast when I do this?

I believe you want to turn your heat gage up but keep the blower off and just undo that air release cap and let it idle untill fluid goes down. Reving your engine won't hurt it just speeds the process up.

Somebody correct me if i'm wrong.

cali-ti

01-19-2006, 04:27 AM

http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=8077

Juni

01-19-2006, 11:16 PM

Okay, so I have Burped the system twice, I found blown fuse for some of the heater fuctions. But now, after I replaced the blown fuse, the heater still doesn't seem to be up to par like before. So I just took out the glove box, but I have no idea what I'm looking for? Any Help?

Juni

01-19-2006, 11:48 PM

So I found the cable, and it seems to be attached becuase it moves when I turn the knob. So now I'm kinda stumped! Maybe it'll get better tommorow.

bobrezaee

01-20-2006, 12:02 AM

I have done all the same things that you did. Still have not found the problem...let me know if you find out. :confused:

bobrezaee

01-23-2006, 06:56 AM

So I found the cable, and it seems to be attached becuase it moves when I turn the knob. So now I'm kinda stumped! Maybe it'll get better tommorow.

Any luck with the heater??? I still have no heat...I am glade where I am in cali it does not get too cold. :biggrin:

Also could it be the heater core? I Know thats rare but still

Juni

01-23-2006, 12:04 PM

bobrezaee

01-23-2006, 08:55 PM

No progress here. The heater still doesn't work, but atleast I got the rear defroster to work. I'm starting to think that the cable behind the dash isnt working properly. It's just that, when I took apart the dash, I can see the cable...........I just dont know where it goes, and I couldn't see if it was opening the vent properly. So if anyone can provide pics or better directions as to what to disassemble to get to that pesky vent, that would be helpful.

Here is what you need to do, I am not sure if you were able to actually see the cable or what.
1. take out the dash (with glove box)
2. take out the knee bolter (4 or 5 bolts)
3 take out the vent that goes to your feet. (its black and hard to take out)
4. there should be a cable right there after you take the above out. Move from cold to hot to make sure its the right cable.

let me know if you run into trouble. :biggrin:

Breeze30

01-25-2006, 04:08 PM

Juni, make sure the cable opens the flap on the heater box all the way. My car was doing the exact same thing. bled the system what seemed like 100 times but it wasn't that. The cable from the hot/cold knob to the heater box was moving the flap that it's connected to but not all the way open. For some reason if that flap does not open fully the heater will not blow hot. I bought a new cable, (probably didn't have to) and adjusted it so that it opened fully. Heater blows hot now. I know it's a pain to get to but, that's what fixed mine.

cali-ti

01-25-2006, 04:10 PM

anybody have pics of these areas/fixes so we can make up a knowledgebase article?

Juni

01-25-2006, 05:19 PM

I guess I'm gonna have to take pics for this since nobody has em and I need to do it soon. It's getting real old, real fast having to wear my coat while I drive.

bobrezaee

01-27-2006, 06:24 AM

I think I may have found my problem..dont know yet. My water pump went out yesterday and started to spill water everywhere. I thought at first I blew my head gasket but so far so good. I checked all the signs of a blown head gasket and I have none of them. What else should I replace other than the water pump (the radiator is a few years old)?:confused:

Also I am not sure its even the water pump but it is leaking in that area....???

What was happening was the water pump was broken and not circulating the water and at the same time leaking coolant, but not at idle. I noticed my coolant level kept droping but there was never any coolant on the ground. :cool:

Also in the process is tore off a hose from some plastic tube next to the intake. Its part number 11531714738...has anyone ever replaced it?

Thanks for anyones help

cali-ti

01-27-2006, 03:20 PM

that is one of the evil plastic pieces:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=CG73&mospid=47506&btnr=11_1558&hg=11&fg=10&hl=1

Tyler just had to replace the other (see the "Blew my headgasket" thread).

i had a shop replace mine, so i don't know from personal experience how bad it is, but from what i understand, neither one is too much fun to replace.

Juni

01-27-2006, 06:50 PM

I found something in my car today. It was a small yellow plastic piece that looked like it was part of the bowden cable. It seems obvious that my problem is that damn cable. So can anybody pin point exactly where the vent that the cable opens is? I know youv'e said that it is near the knee bolster on the right side......but can someone like take a pic and circle where I should be looking?

Juni

01-28-2006, 06:26 PM

Alright boys and girls, I found the damn pesky cable. It wasnt opening the vent all the way like it should have so now I must finnagle something to make it work.

http://www.318ti.org/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCF0075.JPG

and heres the damn cable.....

http://www.318ti.org/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCF0074.JPG

Any suggestions on how to readjust this damn cable. Maybe some screws or something.

Juni

01-28-2006, 09:31 PM

Okay, so I have it working now. But another problem has come up.......now my radio doesn't work!!!

I mean, it lights up, reads and plays CD's, but no sound! Nothing at all........I am completly stummped. Right now I'm like WTF!

J!m

01-31-2006, 12:47 AM

angel318ti

01-31-2006, 02:37 AM

You are on the money but keeping the blower on wont hurt any. Ok I have a question now. What if you BURP(not blurp) the system but still overheat after removing the thermostat and checking the water pump to make sure that the fins aren't broken. I'm not getting any heat either. The gauge reads around half but the coolant is boiling. When I open the cap and rev it up a little I the coolant is not circling into the radiator. I need some help because I came close to tossing a hammer at the car earlier. I am just about to give up and take it to a shop. Not if you guys can help.

J!m

01-31-2006, 03:09 AM

If coolant is not circulating, there is no heat, removing thermostat does not help...

Sounds like the pump is bad to me.

By the way, don't run without the thermostat. It restricts the water flow to increase it's velocity. I personally know of odd stories of overheating, so remove the t-stat, still overheating...

What I used to do is to take an old thermostat and 'gut' it, making a restrictor to keep the water velocity up where it should be.

Juni

01-31-2006, 03:41 AM

You likely un-plugged something to the radio, or possily shorted something blowing a fuse.

If you have the stock radio, the amplifier is seperate, and the connection between them may be the culprit (which may explain why the radio seems to function, but no sound).

Well, I have an aftermarket Nakamichi Radio, and I have no clue where the rest of the radio harness goes past pulling the radio out. I checked fuses and nothing seemed to be fried or blown. So any clue if there is a connector behind the HVAC controls or something like that may pertain to the radio fuctions? Another thing, How hard would it be to install a new bowden cable? I rigged it to work, but not to fuction properly. Also the HVAC lights stopped working to. It's you fix one thing, and ten more things go wrong! WTF :mad:

bobrezaee

01-31-2006, 03:58 AM

Well, I have an aftermarket Nakamichi Radio, and I have no clue where the rest of the radio harness goes past pulling the radio out. I checked fuses and nothing seemed to be fried or blown. So any clue if there is a connector behind the HVAC controls or something like that may pertain to the radio fuctions? Another thing, How hard would it be to install a new bowden cable? I rigged it to work, but not to fuction properly. Also the HVAC lights stopped working to. It's you fix one thing, and ten more things go wrong! WTF :mad:

Man....I know exactally how you feel, the more you fix something the more stuff breaks. Goodluck on trying to get everything fixed. :rolleyes:

angel318ti

01-31-2006, 04:02 AM

ok, I have been running the car without a t-stat for about 1 month now. I know, I know I suck... anyway the water seemed to flow a lot better into the radiator. Now it looks like there is no flow at all. Is this sounding like a head gaske to anyone? I really hope not.

cali-ti

01-31-2006, 04:04 AM

check your oil. is it foamy, whitish, etc? if it still looks like good ole oil, then i doubt it's your headgasket. if nothing is circulating, sounds like the water pump. if you release tension on the belt, can you turn the water pump pulley by hand?

angel318ti

01-31-2006, 04:09 AM

I took off the water pump off already. It was easier than I expected by the way. the fins were intact and there was no kind of oily residue around the pump. There isnt any water in my oil either. Man I am about to freak out now.

angel318ti

01-31-2006, 04:12 AM

oh, I didnt answer you question..... yes the pulley does turn by hand. I already bought the pump from the stealer but didnt change it because it didnt look or feel damaged.

cali-ti

01-31-2006, 04:17 AM

my friend's water pump on his e30 died without any apparent indication as well. it could still be bad.

angel318ti

01-31-2006, 04:22 AM

I guess I wont hurt to replace it then. Oh, one more factor I forgot to mention. There were gas fumes in coming out of the radiator. I'm dead serious. I know how that sounds so I want to clear that ahead. Is there any possible way for fule to mix with water internally?

cali-ti

01-31-2006, 04:31 AM

whoah ... never heard of that one! how would fuel get in there? :confused:

angel318ti

01-31-2006, 04:38 AM

exactly, what the f... is going on in there? maybe its just me going crazy but this is not my first time doing this. I actually do this for a living. Not on cars but on Diesel engines. I have worked with BMW for about 7 years now. Since I lived in Germany I have dealt with BMW and never have I seen a car mix water and fuel. I'm gonna try to drain some into a cup and light it on fire so I can say for sure that it is fuel.

angel318ti

01-31-2006, 07:33 PM

ok so I completely took of the front of the engine. When I took off my valve cover the oil in there looked fine, except for one pencil eraser size spot where it looked like it was mixing. Also took off my spark plugs to make sure things were fine in there. I'm in the process of taking off the head so I can check it out a little closer. Is there anything I should know that would make it a little bit easier process. And, will I just need the gasket and the head bolts to put it back together?

cali-ti

01-31-2006, 07:48 PM

if you don't get a response here, i'd post to the yahoo mailing list as those guys have generally done more work on their ti's. check the links section to get there.

angel318ti

01-31-2006, 07:50 PM

I'll try that thanks

bobrezaee

02-01-2006, 02:23 AM

I just change my water pump and thermo and still no heat. I am thinking that it could be the heater core but I dont know. Has anyone ever had a broken heater core. I felt both sides of the hose for the control valve and they are both really hot. It weird.

angel318ti

02-01-2006, 02:25 AM

same here so I just had my car go to the shop today. check back tomorrow and I'll let you know what they tell me. I was thinking heater core myself.

angel318ti

02-07-2006, 07:37 PM

It's been a week now and I still don't know what the hell is wron with my car. They keep telling me that they are running into problems removing the head. I really can't picture anything that can cause you to take 1 week taking the head off. I think I need to go down there and make a scene.

Blufrog

02-13-2006, 08:55 PM

Well I just picked up my car this morning and the heat blows cold air. I will be tearing into the dash tonight to see if I can get the hot air back on. I will try the cable first to see if that is working correctly or not. They just replaced the stock radio so that might have caused something to interfere with the cable.

We'll see.

Blufrog

02-14-2006, 03:48 PM

Well I got the glove box out of the way and found where the cable is. I went to rotate the switch and the cable popped over behind a metal rail and I could not see it. At first I thought I was not going to be able to find where it went and then really be screwed. But I found where the thing connects and watched it move back and forth. I was able to reach a screw driver to the mounting point and help move it a bit further. So I started up the car and I was able to get warm air out of it.

Well I had put it all back together and then like a non thinker I rotated the switch back and forth again and all I could get was cold air even worse than before.

I don't know if I had got the connected piece over all the way or not. Rather hard to see in that tiny area. But it was obvious the cable was out of whack in there and now I need to tear into it again.

I tried to remove the cover over the radio and hvac switches but could not. I found the two small screws behind the controls/switches but that did not help. I would like to try and get this out of my way so is there something I missed or do you take the two srews out and just pull hard to remove it? I don't want to break it trying and untill I get a manual I am doing this stuff on a guess for the most part.

I was able to look at some photo's in the thread here and I will remove the lower section and take out the tubing that goes to the passenger side so I can see in there better.

I also checked to make sure there was no air in the system and the antifreeze flows through without any trouble and it is full. I don't think I have air in the system at this point.

Blufrog

02-15-2006, 05:12 AM

I tore into it again tonight and found that the cable had broke where the tab is that connects to the box at the end of the cable. So I need to replace the cable on mine. I ordered a manual so it should be here in a couple weeks and I will know how to rip apart the whole dash and get in and fix a couple items.

For a temp fix I held the lever over so hot air came out and put a screw in behind it so it would not open and blow cold air. I tested it while apart and once the fan was off it popped itself open and cold air returned so I needed a mickey mouse fix till I get a cable. Once the cable is fixed and can fill the screw hole with some epoxy and it will be good to go.

Good luck to everyone else and their quest for hot air.