I can confitm the UUC 6 line kit works.

[Panzer_M]

haven't bled the system, but then I don't have any belts on the engine either..so I'm not currently going anywhere.

[DustenT]

haven't bled the system, but then I don't have any belts on the engine either..so I'm not currently going anywhere.

So can I. They work very well.

[Panzer_M]

also taking out the a/c this week sometime.

[DustenT]

also taking out the a/c this week sometime.

You're crazy. I love my A/C, eventho I only use it once or twice a year.

[Panzer_M]

I have windows, and can always go faster for more air. ;)

[stormos]

i can say Ikon Automotive/Motech Performance are sh1t. i ordered Goodridge lines 2.5 weeks ago for a 3 day delivery time. Got a call this morning and they said another 10 days. i say fcuk it, cancel the order!!!

grrrrr!!!

[Panzer_M]

UUC 125$ at Understeer.com

and I just had to order a replacement line for the inner rear due to me stripping threads with one in the set. Line + waterpump threaded cap plus shipping 40$.

[AlaskaBlue]

Glad to hear the lines work well. I recently took out all a/c components except for the compressor that is bolted to the block. If you have good ways of getting that out without getting the car on a lift let me know.

[Panzer_M]

nope.

hoping to get on a lift mid-week.

[bimmer95]

I got nervous about the fitment after recognizing some of the names as 318ti owners, so I checked the BMW part numbers on the lines... the 318ti lines are the same as E30 lines. I called Rob L to confirm since UUC lists them as "exc ti", yet they're listed as fitting the E30, he had simply assumed that the 318ti rear end was different. Glad to see that my concerns were unfounded :)

[Panzer_M]

other than mashing the threads on a inner rear line(My fault for trying to force it at 2am w/o no patience left) the install was smmoooth.

worse bit was finding a couple liters of denatured alcohol to clean out my pressure bleeder. ACE hardware had it on hand I found out.

[bimmer95]

Been there, done that. I managed to snap an E46 330i 6-speed's shift carrier in half in the middle of the night while doing an Evo3 install... I was able to whip up a reinforcement piece out of a steel rod ground to fit and bolted the carrier back together. That was fun. Anywho, your replacement line should be in your hands by Friday/Saturday.

[Panzer_M]

also had a pisser finding someone who had a belt for a single belt M42, which is NOT the same as the M44, I had to pull the belts from both the 97 and 95 to show one part dept boy the differance.

[L84THSKY]

I remember on my Scirocco, which had stainless lines, that the two ends of the line compete with each other when tightening. Since there are no swivels on the ends of the lines, wouldn't turning it tighter on one side tend to loosen the line on the other side?

What I had to do in the Scirocco was remove the caliper, then rotate the whole caliper with the line attached to it, so that I could tighten the other side of the line. I hope you see my point. If you try to tighten one side, then the other side of the line, you could kink the line.

haven't bled the system, but then I don't have any belts on the engine either..so I'm not currently going anywhere.

[J!m]

I have Teflon lines and you screw it into the caliper first, then the hard line end has a degree of swivel to it allowing it to be tightened without damaging anything.

You don't need to apply Caterpillar diesel torque to it either...

[L84THSKY]

I bought a liter(I think), of this fancy dot 4 brake fluid.

My question is, how much fluid do I need to flush the entire brake/clutch system?

I'm gonna do the brake lines this weekend.

I have Teflon lines and you screw it into the caliper first, then the hard line end has a degree of swivel to it allowing it to be tightened without damaging anything.

You don't need to apply Caterpillar diesel torque to it either...

[J!m]

I think a liter will be enough to fill the entire system. It may be a good idea to have a second bottle on hand just in case something goes wrong and you end up wasting a bit.

[L84THSKY]

I bought a 1 liter bottle of this stuff.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/General-All-Purpose-5-Liter-Dot-4-Brake-Fluid-Pentosin_W0QQitemZ4563866454QQcategoryZ6755QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
I can't remember where I bought it. One of the sites we all buy most of our stuff from. I could just buy this 5 liter bottle, but probably don't need that much....ever.

Any idea where I got it?

I think a liter will be enough to fill the entire system. It may be a good idea to have a second bottle on hand just in case something goes wrong and you end up wasting a bit.

[J!m]

I've never used that brand...

I have used the Castrol GT-LMA fluid, various DOT-5 fluids, and in the BMW I use the Motul RBF.

I should have some of each at home (in CT), and remember once you open the bottle, you want to use it all within a month or so. Five liters will have a reduced boiling point (due to water absorption) by the time you get half way through it. I had a gallon of GT-LMA for a while and had to ditch over half because it was just too old.

PS you can't use DOT-5 in the BMWs or any other car with anti-lock brakes. It will foam in the ABS pump. BUT, for all other cars it's great. It's silicone based, so it does not harm paint, does not absorb water, and has a very high boiling point.

[Panzer_M]

for a full flush I used 1 1/2 L of ate super blue.

[L84THSKY]

I put the stainless lines in today, well some of them. The left rear one went in fine, when I went to put in the right rear, the small 11mm nut on the rigid line wouln't budge. I didn't want to strip it, so I left it on. That's when I realized that the rear brakes get two lines on each side. Looking under the car, I saw where the inner lines go. No way I was gonna crawl under there and replace them. Even with the car on jackstands.

So I went to the front and replaced those lines. One thing I noticed, and it's hard to explain. The front right, where it joins the rigid line has a hole that is larger than on the left side. I'm talking abou the metal tab interface, where the rubber line meets the rigid line. On the stock lines, the flange of the rubber hose is large enough to prevent it fron going through the interface. When I put the stainless line on, the fitting went right through the interface, when joining the rigid line. When these lines were tightened together, the metal flex tab wedged between the two fittings wouldn't compress.

I went on to the left side and started fitting the line to the rigid line. This problem did not occur. I looked closely at the tab where the lines meet, the hole was smaller, and therfore the flange on the stainless line did not go through, it sat flush with the tab. This allowed the flex tab to compress, and make the connection very sturdy.

In the end, I put a tie wrap around the flex tab and interface tab, and tightened it down; it's working fine.

So, I put in both front lines, and the left rear outer line, half the lines.

The good part was bleeding. I didn't flush the lines, but I did have to bleed them. I had bought the Motive power bleeding system, and I used it for the first time on the car. I pressurized the system, and used the catch bottles to check for air.

Would you believe the system works great, bled the whole system by myself, no pumping of the brakes. Put on my 17"s and put away the 15"s. Took the car for a ride and damn, it stops on a dime. Of course it stopped very well before that.

I will put the inner rear lines in at my brother's; he has a lift. As for the rear right outer one, I will buy a new rigid line, and cut off the rusted line if necessary.

I got nervous about the fitment after recognizing some of the names as 318ti owners, so I checked the BMW part numbers on the lines... the 318ti lines are the same as E30 lines. I called Rob L to confirm since UUC lists them as "exc ti", yet they're listed as fitting the E30, he had simply assumed that the 318ti rear end was different. Glad to see that my concerns were unfounded :)

[Panzer_M]

take the wheel off, jack up the car and work from inside the wheel well to switch out the inner rears. Not the quickiest or easiest way to do it. but it works.

a stub 11mm box end also helps with the 11mm flare nut,

[cali-ti]

i would get flare nut wrenches for anything to do with pipe connections. should be able to get a cheap set at sears.

[Panzer_M]

i used both, Flare to loosen, then the stub box to full take off the connection.

[L84THSKY]

I was using flare nut wrenches, and I still could not get the right rear connection off. Whenever I need a tool, I buy it, so I am almost always in posession of the right tool for the job. That rigid line connector was not budging. And I was wise enough to leave it alone. If I had broken it, I couldn't have driven my car. I will order a new line, and cut the rigid line out.

i would get flare nut wrenches for anything to do with pipe connections. should be able to get a cheap set at sears.

[L84THSKY]

I had the rear wheels off, the jack stands under the rubber bumps and even the floor jack on the bumper. I still did not feel like crawing under there to remove the lines.

Actually, it just hit me, I can use my ramps to swap those lines out. I feel very comfortable working under ramps.

Another weird thing, the new lines seem to be 9/16" wrenches on one side of the lines. I had to switch from standard to metric to standard for some hookups. I swear, I put a 14mm on the connector, no good, but the 9/16" fit perfect.


take the wheel off, jack up the car and work from inside the wheel well to switch out the inner rears. Not the quickiest or easiest way to do it. but it works.

a stub 11mm box end also helps with the 11mm flare nut,

[cali-ti]

hmmm .. maybe someone swapped something in there they shouldn't have? i don't recall any non-metric connections. i've been working under my car for months with 4 jack stands, but i seem to recall you're working on blacktop, is that right? certainly better safe than crushed by your car. the lift sounds like a good idea. way more comfortable too :)

[L84THSKY]

I was referring to the UUC stainless lines, not the ones on the car.

hmmm .. maybe someone swapped something in there they shouldn't have? i don't recall any non-metric connections. i've been working under my car for months with 4 jack stands, but i seem to recall you're working on blacktop, is that right? certainly better safe than crushed by your car. the lift sounds like a good idea. way more comfortable too :)

[cali-ti]

they don't use metric? wth ...

[stormos]

pb blaster ?

[Panzer_M]

yea the UUCs are weird, I noticed that too.

[L84THSKY]

I dropped off my car at the auto body shop for some touch up and body kit painting. I then drove down to Circle BMW in NJ, on my way to Aberdeen MD.

At the dealer, they told me you can't order the rigid brake line pre-bent for our cars, or any other possibly. He told me I would have to take off the piece on the car, and buy straight brake line from him and make my own bends to match the stock piece. Does that sound normal to you?

yea the UUCs are weird, I noticed that too.

[J!m]

That's pretty much the deal. For long lines on the Land Rovers, they come rolled in a bag...

[L84THSKY]

Now that I think of it, I do have a pipe flare tool, but maybe not a bender. I bought the flare tool to make brake lines on the Triumph motorcycle.

So they must sell the actual threaded ends to the rigid line seperately, if you need to bend and flare the lines yourself...right?

That's pretty much the deal. For long lines on the Land Rovers, they come rolled in a bag...

[J!m]

The threaded ends are on the line, which is already flared. This is why you need to tell the dealer the exact length.

I go to the parts store and get the generic crap and cut/bend/flare it myself. Usually, I can re-use the old ends to keep the factory look (assuming they are not junk).

The European flare is different from the US flare by the way. I have no idea which style the Triumph has, but I'm guessing it's similar to the Land Rover, which is the same as the US style. The BMW flare is different...

[cali-ti]

order the lines from bmw, they'll be the correct length, but won't be bent. i ordered some "just in case" and ended up not using them because they weren't prebent (and because i was successful in getting them disconnected.

[L84THSKY]

Bought this on Ebay to do the bending.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=4628064129&sspagename=STRK%3AMEAFB%3AIT

order the lines from bmw, they'll be the correct length, but won't be bent. i ordered some "just in case" and ended up not using them because they weren't prebent (and because i was successful in getting them disconnected.

[J!m]

That's the same style I have. It works well for tight bends.

More gradual bends are done by using a paint can or some other 'mandrel' the right diameter and pulling the line over it...

Tight coils are made wrapping the line around a rattle-can.