Pad wear indicator light is on!

[IndianaTravis]

Well, it happened a bit sooner than I expected, but the pad wear indicator came on this morning.

I'm not sure yet whether it is for the front or rear. I'm hoping/assuming it is the front, because I want to replace the rotors due to a slight vibration under braking that I am attributing to warpage.

I'd prefer not to do all four sets of rotors and pads at the same time, because money is still tight (still haven't sold the house in NC!).

So, assuming it is no problem to do just the front pads and rotors now, what should I get? Eventually this will be an autocross car as well as my daily driver, and I might even do a driver's school or 5 if we sell the house and I find myself with extra cash.

My car is a '96 with the non-vented front rotors.

Also, I imagine the fluid could stand to be changed. Will standard speed bleeders work, or do I need something special?

[campaiar]

I highly recommend the 325/8 brake converstion to the vented rotors, however if money is tight, you might want to just go with new rotors, pads and a fluid flush.

The standard bleeder on the calipers is fine, I'd pick up some tinted brake fluid to make the job easier. I think the recommended fluid on the board is RedLine. You can pickup a bleeding kit at a parts store that will draw the fluid out of the system at each wheel.

Remember to start with the farthest wheel from the mster cylinder first first, and proceed to the next closest when changing your fluid.

[AlaskaBlue]

I recommend the upgrade as well. I got mine from Zionsville autosport down near Indy. I was very pleased with the service. I got the +2 conversion. The phone number is 1888bimmers.

[campaiar]

You can save some ksh by doing the job yourself. I found the 325/8 caliper brackets (or carriers) on the "bay of e" and bought everything else from the local KOI (including pads, bigger calipers, vented rotors)

It took me, maybe two hours? I replaced the rear pads while I was at it since they were almost gone.

Plenty of brakes now, even with the 17" rims.

[stormos]

had my entire lot done on tuesday. had the 325 fronts fitted and standard rears. feels lovely jubbly!

[aceyx]

Do the front upgrade (the rears don't do a whole lot, and can wait), and a fluid flush. I prefer the ATE Super Blue/Gold, depending on what color your current fluid is (use the opposite, so you can see when it's bled completely).

Speed (pressurized) bleeders aren't necessary per se, but they make the job a lot easier. If it's been a while since you've done it, I actually suggest using the "friend and a six-pack method," as this moves the master cylinder through its entire range and can clear up gunk on the piston.

I prefer OE (not OEM) rotors, and whatever pads you like. The TUV-approved ones are kind of dusty, because of the content requirements. Remember to bed them in properly.

[cossieturbo]

I did the E36 328i Calipers and they are just what the car wanted... no, needed. Search the Forum for Pad info as there has been a lot of yacking about them. One mans Candy is another mans Poison. I feel that Hawk HPS pads are the best setup. I use Rotex Semi-Metallic and am very happy. They are as good or better then Factory with almost no dust!

try this like: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HAWK-HPS-Front-BRAKE-PADS-BMW-Z3-Z4-323-325-328-E36-E46_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33567QQitemZ7990905053QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

cossieturbo