View Full Version : UUC Ltw flywheel & Clutch
L84THSKY
03-09-2006, 10:56 PM
Just bought the UUC stage II flywheel with Sachs Power clutch. Also bought the stainless steel clutch line. Can't wait to have them installed.:biggrin:
bimmer95
03-09-2006, 11:05 PM
Won't have to wait long, those should be in your hands by Monday or Tuesday :)
DustenT
03-09-2006, 11:05 PM
Just bought the UUC stage II flywheel with Sachs Power clutch. Also bought the stainless steel clutch line. Can't wait to have them installed.:biggrin:
LUCKY!!!!!!!!!
Panzer_M
03-09-2006, 11:08 PM
ah, still a couple hundred off at the money..like 150 or so.
waiting to get the last of the ebay money collected, then I think we have it.
cali-ti
03-09-2006, 11:30 PM
Just bought the UUC stage II flywheel with Sachs Power clutch. Also bought the stainless steel clutch line. Can't wait to have them installed.:biggrin:
is that the m3 clutch or the m5 sprung-hub one?
congrats man, you're going to have a nice setup. look forward to your experience with it.
L84THSKY
03-09-2006, 11:53 PM
M5 sprung-hub clutch
is that the m3 clutch or the m5 sprung-hub one?
congrats man, you're going to have a nice setup. look forward to your experience with it.
Mendi3
03-10-2006, 12:56 AM
You are going to love it. How much for the set up? What is the weight?
L84THSKY
03-10-2006, 01:16 AM
He said it's 12lbs lighter than stock setup.
Total was $1000.00 plus shipping.
You are going to love it. How much for the set up? What is the weight?
Mendi3
03-10-2006, 01:25 AM
He said it's 12lbs lighter than stock setup.
Total was $1000.00 plus shipping.
Let us know when you get it done.
L84THSKY
03-10-2006, 01:31 AM
I'll weigh it before having it installed, and weigh what came out of the car after install.....:wink:
Let us know when you get it done.
Panzer_M
03-16-2006, 07:25 PM
just ordered mine yesterday.
ordering the Redline MT90 fluid friday.
L84THSKY
03-17-2006, 04:22 AM
Just opened the outer box.
The weight in the enclosed boxes is 29.8 lbs. Assume 1/2 lb for packaging.
You are going to love it. How much for the set up? What is the weight?
isnt there a flywheel that weight either 8 or 12 pounds?? Why is the one you bought 29 pounds?
bimmer95
03-17-2006, 07:38 AM
Why is the one you bought 29 pounds?
That's the weight of the flywheel plus the complete clutch assembly. The stock 318ti flywheel is ~27lbs by itself.
That's the weight of the flywheel plus the complete clutch assembly. The stock 318ti flywheel is ~27lbs by itself.
oohh oh right, i thought he was only weighing the flywheel.
bimmer95
03-17-2006, 07:46 AM
Also, if he's weighing everything without opening the box up, he's weighing three boxes, some newspaper, a clutch alignment tool, the flywheel bolts, the throw out bearing and a bunch of tape :)
Henry80
03-17-2006, 10:02 AM
Just bought the UUC stage II flywheel with Sachs Power clutch. Also bought the stainless steel clutch line. Can't wait to have them installed.:biggrin:
LUCKY!!!! What's the difference between the power and the sport clutch :cool:
L84THSKY
03-17-2006, 07:37 PM
I just called a place that has done work on my WV transmission in the past. They quoted me $295.00 to install the flywheel and clutch. Same day service.
Will have it installed in a week or so; have to go back to Aberdeen on Monday.
Is that Redline fluid the same stuff used for the diff? I have two new bottles of the stuff in my garage to do my diff. I will bring the Redline stuff and have him use it in the Flywheel install.
just ordered mine yesterday.
ordering the Redline MT90 fluid friday.
bimmer95
03-18-2006, 01:25 AM
Make sure that you don't use gear lube that's designed for LSDs in your gearbox, friction modifiers are not compatible with synchros.
L84THSKY
03-18-2006, 01:29 AM
I was confusing some Redline products. I just bought this for the flywheel.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8023101214&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&rd=1
Make sure that you don't use gear lube that's designed for LSDs in your gearbox, friction modifiers are not compatible with synchros.
Panzer_M
03-18-2006, 03:08 AM
yea. the MT is man. Trans fluid and then it's the heavier stuff 90w...which kills chatter on the fly supposedly.
L84THSKY
03-18-2006, 07:54 PM
I just reweighed the clutch/flywheel with only the exact stuff going in the car. Actual weight is 28 lbs.
That's the weight of the flywheel plus the complete clutch assembly. The stock 318ti flywheel is ~27lbs by itself.
L84THSKY
03-21-2006, 11:57 PM
UUC Stage II will be installed this Friday. I will post my results Saturday.
I may not have the gear oil I ordered in time. It was shipped from Florida yesterday. If not, either I will try to find the stuff locally, or let him install his gear oil, and I will drain and refill later.
Quick question:
I've heard that the clutch line uses the same reservior and fluid as the brake system. The shop will put the clutch line in and bleed, but I also plan to install the stainless steel brake lines on another day.
Will replacing the brake lines, and completely draining all brake fluid require me to re-bleed the clutch line? I have a can of dot 4 brake fluid I bought from Bavauto/Understeer/UUC ( can't remember where).
Thanks
Eric
cali-ti
03-22-2006, 12:11 AM
yes, you should bleed the clutch too to do it properly.
DustenT
03-22-2006, 12:11 AM
UUC Stage II will be installed this Friday. I will post my results Saturday.
I may not have the gear oil I ordered in time. It was shipped from Florida yesterday. If not, either I will try to find the stuff locally, or let him install his gear oil, and I will drain and refill later.
Quick question:
I've heard that the clutch line uses the same reservior and fluid as the brake system. The shop will put the clutch line in and bleed, but I also plan to install the stainless steel brake lines on another day.
Will replacing the brake lines, and completely draining all brake fluid require me to re-bleed the clutch line? I have a can of dot 4 brake fluid I bought from Bavauto/Understeer/UUC ( can't remember where).
Thanks
Eric
Don't touch the clutch while you work on the brakes or when the reseviour is empty. You'll be fine.
cali-ti
03-22-2006, 12:32 AM
Don't touch the clutch while you work on the brakes or when the reseviour is empty. You'll be fine.
i say get that old fluid out of there! :)
DustenT
03-22-2006, 12:37 AM
The clutch is difficult to bleed because of the angle, I think they recommend you actually remove the slave to bleed it. Air bubbles get trapped because the bleeder is higher than part of the cylinder. You'll be fine either way, it's up to you how much work you want to put into it!
L84THSKY
03-22-2006, 03:22 AM
How difficult is it to remove and bleed the slave cylinder, if I plan on bleeding the entire system?
The clutch is difficult to bleed because of the angle, I think they recommend you actually remove the slave to bleed it. Air bubbles get trapped because the bleeder is higher than part of the cylinder. You'll be fine either way, it's up to you how much work you want to put into it!
DustenT
03-22-2006, 04:03 AM
How difficult is it to remove and bleed the slave cylinder, if I plan on bleeding the entire system?
It's held in with 2 bolts. You'll have to do some trickery to get it out though, it has a steel line going to it so moving it isn't that easy.
I changed to the M3 slave when I installed the M3 clutch/pressure plate to keep the effort the same as it was with the ti clutch and 4-cylinder. If you keep the ti slave with a heavier pressure plate the effort is quite high and unpleasant in traffic.
Bleeding the clutch on the E36 is very difficult. I did not remove the master, but did force fluid up to the master as well as (the normal way) down from the master and was still unable to get all the air out.
The air eventually works itself out; however if this is your only car, you need to get as much out, then actuate the pedal several hundred times to work it all out before driving.
DustenT
03-22-2006, 02:22 PM
I changed to the M3 slave when I installed the M3 clutch/pressure plate to keep the effort the same as it was with the ti clutch and 4-cylinder. If you keep the ti slave with a heavier pressure plate the effort is quite high and unpleasant in traffic.
Bleeding the clutch on the E36 is very difficult. I did not remove the master, but did force fluid up to the master as well as (the normal way) down from the master and was still unable to get all the air out.
The air eventually works itself out; however if this is your only car, you need to get as much out, then actuate the pedal several hundred times to work it all out before driving.
Thus my suggestion to leave it. Just don't touch you pedals while you are doing the brakes and you'll be fine. The old fluid in the clutch lines should eventually work itself out and mix with the new stuff. It's not like the clutch sees the same kind of heat and abuse that the brakes do anyways, so any fluid that stays trapped in there should be good quality, unless it like 10 years old.
Well, there IS the water absorption issue and the ensuing internal corrosion of all the clutch parts.
It is not a bad idea to change the fluid every two years, but changing it is far easier than bleeding the system, and/or replacing parts (which then require bleeding).
cali-ti
03-22-2006, 03:25 PM
so you're saying you've followed the procedure shown here and had problems? i can't imagine with a pressure bleeder that much if any air remains. how have all the people who've changed out their clutch line with stainless ones done it?
http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E36-Clutch_Slave/E36-Clutch_Slave.htm
essentially, that is correct. That is the conventional method- from the top down. In addition to this, I use a special syringe that forces fluid up from the bleeder to the master.
Even using both methods, air is still trapped, and has to work itself out. Ask the dealers about bleeding the clutch- they all will roll their eyes at you... It's a bear job, and often the car goes back and the customer complains about the soft pedal. The air WILL work out, it jut takes a little while.
L84THSKY
03-22-2006, 04:25 PM
How do you change the fluid with out bleeding the system? Isn't it the same thing?
I want to put fresh fluid in the system when I add the stainless brake lines. The tranny shop will do whatever is necessary to put the clutch line in, but a few weeks later I will put the brake lines in, and want all new fluid, if possible.
I'm willing to see how the stock slave unit performs. If it's too hard, I can change it later. I was used to a much harder clutch in my VW, so it may be fine with me.
It is not a bad idea to change the fluid every two years, but changing it is far easier than bleeding the system, and/or replacing parts (which then require bleeding).
cali-ti
03-22-2006, 05:18 PM
How do you change the fluid with out bleeding the system? Isn't it the same thing?
I want to put fresh fluid in the system when I add the stainless brake lines. The tranny shop will do whatever is necessary to put the clutch line in, but a few weeks later I will put the brake lines in, and want all new fluid, if possible.
I'm willing to see how the stock slave unit performs. If it's too hard, I can change it later. I was used to a much harder clutch in my VW, so it may be fine with me.
any way to observe their process of bleeding the clutch? or at a minimum ask them how they do it?
think i'll try to ask my old shop how they do it. seem to remember them saying it wasn't a big deal.
DustenT
03-22-2006, 05:19 PM
any way to observe their process of bleeding the clutch? or at a minimum ask them how they do it?
think i'll try to ask my old shop how they do it. seem to remember them saying it wasn't a big deal.
Then they probably didn't do it!
cali-ti
03-22-2006, 05:23 PM
Then they probably didn't do it!
i have no doubt they did it. reputable shop that races, race preps, etc. honest chaps.
L84THSKY
03-22-2006, 05:27 PM
Pelican Parts says to use the Motive Power Bleeder. I bought that last year and also have the catch bottles. I think with the power bleeder it won't be a problem. Pelican makes no mention of the difficulty in bleeding.
i have no doubt they did it. reputable shop that races, race preps, etc. honest chaps.
Replacing fluid (bleeding if you wish) is easy, as you replace fluid with fluid, and not allow air into the system.
Bleeding air from the system is another story (such as slave, master or line replacement). The configuration of the BMW system allows air to get trapped in odd places that conventional 'bleeding' does not remove- hence the soft pedal.
If you replace the fluid (and not open the system), you re-fill the reservoir, then bleed until the color changes (this is why you go with different colors each time), and there are no problems.
This is the difference.
L84THSKY
03-22-2006, 07:36 PM
Ahhhhhh, this may work out. I'll let the shop bleed the clutch line. Then I swap brake lines, and bleed only the brake lines, not the clutch line. If I swap the brake lines and keep using the Power Bleeder system, I should get a continuous flow going down to the calipers, and only need to get the air out of the calipers, and not the clutch slave. Does this make sense?
Wait, I just realized. I would have to open the clutch bleeder to pass the old fluid through the slave clyinder. But atleast there shouldn't be any air in the slave, just let the old fluid pass.
Replacing fluid (bleeding if you wish) is easy, as you replace fluid with fluid, and not allow air into the system.
Bleeding air from the system is another story (such as slave, master or line replacement). The configuration of the BMW system allows air to get trapped in odd places that conventional 'bleeding' does not remove- hence the soft pedal.
If you replace the fluid (and not open the system), you re-fill the reservoir, then bleed until the color changes (this is why you go with different colors each time), and there are no problems.
This is the difference.
Exactly. That should work fine.
L84THSKY
03-23-2006, 08:51 PM
The guy in receiving just dropped off the box with the Redline gear oil. Talk about perfect; I am leaving to drop the car in an hour.:_pelvic:
cali-ti
03-23-2006, 09:51 PM
can't wait to read about the change ... :biggrin:
L84THSKY
03-25-2006, 03:10 AM
OK, drove it home from the shop. The first thing I noticed was how stiff the clutch was. I popped and stalled the car the moment I first put it in 1st gear. The clutch is harder, and catches lower.
The tranny shop said as it warms up, daily driving, the clutch will engage even lower. My leg got used to the softer clutch in this car, after being used to a much harder one in the Scirocco. That means I need to get used to the new feel.
Speaking of the Scirocco, the car now seems to have the pep, that my Scirocco had. Feels like the car weighs alot less, cause it takes off faster.
All in all, it can't hurt to have a stronger clutch and lighter flywheel.
He had no problem bleeding the clutch,; I didn't ask him his secret.
As for the supposed chatter, I only noticed a slight increase in vibration when idling.
can't wait to read about the change ... :biggrin:
cali-ti
03-25-2006, 04:22 AM
would a larger clutch slave cylinder make the clutch pedal feel lighter again?
glad to hear you don't appear to have vibration issues like cossieturbo did and that you're liking the change overall.
i'll get one eventually :)
would a larger clutch slave cylinder make the clutch pedal feel lighter again?
Yes, it does. I recommend changing to the M3 slave in my swap manual. The master does not need to be changed. This preserves the same clutch effort with the heavier pressure plate. Ben Liaw gave me the idea, and I'm glad I did it (with Long Island traffic...).
L84THSKY
03-25-2006, 02:16 PM
What exact year and model slave do I replace it with? I need to look up the parts #.
Yes, it does. I recommend changing to the M3 slave in my swap manual. The master does not need to be changed. This preserves the same clutch effort with the heavier pressure plate. Ben Liaw gave me the idea, and I'm glad I did it (with Long Island traffic...).
I'm sure I have the number around somewhere, but all you do is ask for a slave for a (insert your car year here) M3. This is what I did before I had a part number...
cali-ti
03-25-2006, 03:01 PM
should be #14 on this diagram (6/98 production M3 sedan):
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=CD93&mospid=47504&btnr=21_0059&hg=21&fg=10
L84THSKY
03-27-2006, 03:49 PM
Since I'm gonna flush the brake lines and put in the stainless lines, I think I'll wait on the M3 slave. Once I have the system flushed and bled, I will have the tranny shop put in the slave, and bleed it.
Yep. That's it!
L84THSKY
03-28-2006, 09:35 PM
I just ordered the M3 clutch slave. That clutch pedal is starting to really annoy me.:mad:
The cool part is, I can rev the engine and drop the clutch in 1st gear, and it will spin the tires easily.:biggrin:
The release of the pedal seems to be very rapid; not a gradual process. That, along with it being very stiff, tends to make my leg wanna release it quickly, and thereby lurch forward and stall the car.
In other words, I now have to THINK about easing the clutch out, instead of just doing it without thinking.
Yep. That's it!
bimmer95
03-29-2006, 06:33 AM
Once you get used to the stiffer clutch pedal, regular ones will feel like toys in comparison.
L84THSKY
03-29-2006, 07:04 PM
To be honest, I see no reason to get used to a stiffer pedal, when stiffer provides no advantage. I ordered the M3 E36 slave; having it put in next weekend.
Once you get used to the stiffer clutch pedal, regular ones will feel like toys in comparison.
DustenT
03-29-2006, 07:11 PM
To be honest, I see no reason to get used to a stiffer pedal, when stiffer provides no advantage. I ordered the M3 E36 slave; having it put in next weekend.
I agree. My pedal is extrememly light and I love it. Cali-ti drove my car a couple weeks ago and comented on it. I think it's from the e30 ltw flywheel.
318ti_Portugal
03-30-2006, 01:44 AM
Does this flywheel/clutch combo, actually improves the reeving of the M42 engine in a way you can notice wile driving?
L84THSKY
03-30-2006, 03:01 AM
HELL YEAH!:2pistole:
Well, I have an M44 engine, but I assume it does the same for an M42 engine
Does this flywheel/clutch combo, actually improves the reeving of the M42 engine in a way you can notice wile driving?
L84THSKY
09-29-2006, 09:45 PM
I just got back from Israel this morning. Drove a 5-speed Fiat Punto as a rental car. The first time I started moving, I popped the clutch; too soft! I get home today, and get in my car, started moving, popped the clutch; too hard. OK, I just went to the tranny shop and finally had the M3 slave install, aaaah, just right!
I agree. My pedal is extrememly light and I love it. Cali-ti drove my car a couple weeks ago and comented on it. I think it's from the e30 ltw flywheel.
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