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-   -   1997 bmw 318ti fuel door won't lock....help! (http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=32317)

zoner 12-14-2010 08:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cooljess76 (Post 287606)
To be perfectly honest, it really doesn't do much. The thing is so flimsy, if somebody really wants to steal your gas, they're gonna steal your gas. It's just a matter of if they're willing to mess up your car doing so.

No, you're right- it's a pretty flimsy pin and I could still pull the door open with the pin in place if I wanted to, but I'm generally of the mindset that if it's there, and it doesn't work/function correctly, then it NEEDS TO BE FIXED!

cooljess76 12-14-2010 09:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3.2TI (Post 287608)
I found mine and it does work but my now my passenger door lock is not locking unless I unlock the door like 3 times.

I'd part it out asap:tongue:

That's a weird one. Since the door lock is actuating, I'd suspect that the actuator rod might have come loose and/or is binding somewhere behind the door panel? I remember fixing a SoCal members door lock where the door lock actuator itself had actually came loose and was hanging freely inside of the door. I just retrieved the screws from the bottom of the door and tightened it back down.

If you decide to remove the door panel, be very careful. The plastic door clip mounts are glued onto the door panel with a very weak glue. The mounts are not available individually, so if any of them pull off of the door panel, they'll need to be re-glued. I recommend JBweld. Also, if I'm not mistaken, your car is equipped with side impact air bags. Disconnect the battery and wait a few minutes before disconnecting the airbag. Then reconnect the battery ONLY AFTER the airbag is reconnected and installed. In addition to the 10 plastic clips, there's 2 torx screws holding the door panel on. The torx screws are located on the top and bottom of the door "pull" handle. Not the lever, the actual handle that you grab to close the door. One screw is accessed from underneath the handle, the other is accessed by removing the little trim plate opposite of the mirror switch on the other door.

Hope that helps, best of luck to ya.

3.2TI 12-14-2010 10:33 PM

Do you have any pictures on the panel removal, I have done it before but many many years ago.

cooljess76 12-14-2010 10:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3.2TI (Post 287618)
Do you have any pictures on the panel removal, I have done it before but many many years ago.

Write up:
http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=7801

Pics:
http://www.318ti.org/gallery/showgallery.php?cat=557

Just make sure that you disconnect the battery BEFORE unplugging the airbag and only reconnect the battery AFTER the airbag is plugged back in. Failure to do so WILL result in an SRS light that can only be reset with a SRS reset tool. It's also really dangerous, so a good rule of thumb is to always disconnect the battery when you're messing around with airbags. Once the airbag is removed, place it face-up somewhere out of harms way. If you place it face down, it becomes a missle hazzard.

I used to work with explosives and ballistic devices on ejection seats, canopy jettison and egress systems for the Navy. I know how dangerous this stuff can be. SRS stands for serious business:wink:

BTW, I know there's videos of people sitting on airbags and stuff. Not that that's a safe thing to do, but it's usually in an open space and their ass is taking the impact. Now imagine working under the dash or in a tight space and having an airbag deploy in your face. It'll break your neck if not kill you:yikes:

bataanboy 12-15-2010 03:13 AM

Fuel door...actuator.
 
Guys,
I went back to the shop today and was told that it probably mechanically actuate. He did called the tech support for the alarms and they said that they never had any problem with it or nobody says anything until now... anyway, jess is right. If someone wants to steal your gas, they will do so...

Guys, I got a question for you... I found a leak at the bottom of tranny, have you had this issue before? if it is, what parts did you replace to stop the leak?? like seal, oring etc...

bataanboy 12-15-2010 04:56 AM

Unknown connection...? Pls identify...
 
2 Attachment(s)
Fellas,
I took this pictures while ago. I noticed this wire connection when I'm installing my headlight bulb. Can anyone identify this?? This connection is located in the hood besides windshield wiper fluid. Please let me know.

thanks,
bataanboy:smile:

cooljess76 12-15-2010 05:11 AM

^^^That's the ambient temp sensor. It tells your door locks, and washer nozzles to heat up when it senses freezing temperatures. It should plug into a hole in one of the brake ducts on the front bumper.

As for the leak on the transmission, you need to figure out if it's brake fluid, transmission fluid or oil. If it's brake fluid, your clutch slave cylinder is leaking. If it's transmission fluid, your transmission is leaking. And if it's oil, then your rear crank seal is leaking. It's also possible that your oil filter housing may be leaking and oil may have got carried back and splashed onto the transmission. It happened on my clubsport. Check your oil filter housing where it mounts to the engine block.

bataanboy 12-15-2010 05:19 AM

I got you, cooljess. But there's 2 connectors in there. what about the other one?

cooljess76 12-15-2010 05:29 AM

Looks like the factory alarm siren connector.

wolferj-RIP 12-15-2010 05:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bataanboy (Post 287659)
I got you, cooljess. But there's 2 connectors in there. what about the other one?

Quote:

Originally Posted by cooljess76 (Post 287661)
Looks like the factory alarm siren connector.

Jesse is right, that's the plug for the alarm siren which would be mounted next to the washer fluid canister.


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