looking for a good shop or mechanic We've hit a wall with the car :mad: Still wont stay on unless being rev'ed, otherwise idles really badly then slowly stalls. We replaced the engine as the original had a blown head gasket. The new engine has been dynoed, was fine. Replaced all of the gaskets, most of the sensors and belts as well. Also changed the fuel filter while we were down there. After research we checked the following as well: Knock sensors - replaced camshaft sensor -not throwing code vacuum lines/seals - didnt find any leaks idle control valve & sensor - cleaned valve, changed sensor mass air flow sensor - ran same disconnected cleaned fuel injectors & pumped out the old gas and put fresh in as it has been sitting 8 months Frankly we're stumped and almost ready to part it out (hes more than ready :frown:) Have a sneaky suspicion its something small and simple to fix, just cant find it. Anyone have a suggestion as to a good shop or mechanic in Santa Rosa or Sonoma Co in general? Or maybe Napa Co? somewhere within about 100 miles from Jenner. The family mechanic is not BMW fluent, and no longer just down the road. |
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Also, I see you all checked, but it could also be a vacuum leak. It's easy to miss a hose or cracked bellows, hose or fitting. Just saying... NorCal - Anyone close to Jenner? :cool: |
i work in sonoma. i just picked up a new stock TI. you can maybe come to my workplace and i can have you test out my MAF |
I can highly recommend North Bay Bavarian in Santa Rosa. They aren't the cheapest, but their work is excellent and they're probably the most knowledgeable shop around. I'd offer to help since I'm only about 40 minutes from Jenner, but I don't have any experience to give in this instance unfortunately :redface: Off topic: I was out there a few months ago taking photos for the ti calendar, the coast is so beautiful! https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...6645-1_1re.jpg https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...6708-1-1re.jpg Best of luck! |
Jaime, nice shots! If you're out there, the extent of the help would be to remove your MAF and let her try it on her car. It should behave differently connected vs not connected. One of our SoCal friends just went through a similar condition. Let's see Evie's response as I missed if she has a M42 or M44. I have spares for both, just a little further away. :rolleyes: Any place good to eat there? I might be tempted to make the drive just for the view. :cool: Quote:
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So, I will likely be in Fairfield Sunday. If no one has a spare, I can bring a MAF for Evie, just need to know which motor she has. Not sure how we get it to her TI, but it will be 50 miles closer. :rolleyes: |
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I wouldn't anticipate many people since it's a lot farther out than the central Vallejo location, but could be an awesome adventure for those able to make the trip! |
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Wow. Just wow. Thank you guys so much for the responses! :biggrin: I have a 96. the last 7 of the vin is AS95578, i believe it was originally a M44. Unless there is a way to tell on the new motor, I'd need to call up the shop we got it from for more info. Its about a 30 min drive from Windsor, I live on the Russian River, about halfway between Jenner and Gurneville. There ARE nice places to eat out here :wink:. Not far from Bodega Bay either, right down Hwy 1. Right now we're both a little under the weather, and I think next weekend would work better for us anyway. So if anyone could make a trip and lend a hand then we'd appreciate it. |
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Evie, take a picture of your motor and post it. You may need 5 or more posts before you can post a picture. We can confirm the motor if we can see it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Is there an easy visual difference between the two? Supposedly the shop used the vin to match the motor (or so i'm being told)... but he says the wiring harness was slightly different. :eek: I'll try to get a pic tomorrow after the sun comes over the hill. |
Assuming it is a M44, there are two emission setups for 96 I believe. That would be the difference in the wiring. The MAF for the M44 is black cylinderical Bosch plastic tube. http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/p...psqqw1nppk.jpg The AFM for the M42 is attached to the top of the air box and is made of Aluminum. http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/p...psoube1jb1.jpg Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
According to a VIN decode, it's an M44. Build date of February 14th, 1996 https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...ti/AS95578.png |
Thanks Jamie! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
2 Attachment(s) grrr how do you post pics directly in the text?? i think i'm not getting the image URL versus the page URL... anyways finally got these to attach: its for sure a M44 |
Evie, try using Photobucket. Upload your pics, then paste the IMG link in your posts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
success! lols, thanks [IMG]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7753/...2a7be18f_o.jpg318ti by bimmerchaser, on Flickr[/IMG] |
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If you swapped motors, did you use the original wiring harness and exhaust manifold? Thanks for the pics! :cool: |
i took the pics yesterday, the new engine is shown, and we used the original wiring and manifold. joe is saying the new motor had one main wiring plug, but my car had a mass of individual wires. |
just an update, car went into the shop today. thanks Jamie for the recommendation of North Bay Bavarian, from what i can see it looks like a good shop. :biggrin: fingers crossed! |
Good luck Evie! :cool: |
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so... update time... Got the car back yesterday. Good news and bad news. Good first :smile: The idle problem has been solved! it WAS a vacuum leak.. but not the MAF. its the crank case vent valve.. (i didnt even realize that was part of the air system :rolleyes:) so a new valve and breather hose later it just purrs. :biggrin: wonderful shop, parts are kinda high, but labor is reasonable so it evens out. best of all they didnt talk down to me :tongue: thanks again for the ref Jamie! BUT the oil leak that we thought was the oil pan gasket (which he admits he didnt put the correct gasket maker on) isnt the problem. apparently when the engine was removed from the donor car, the junkyard sawsalled through the hose above into the timing chain cover :eek: :mad: **bangs head on desk** the engine is under warranty. for a lot of good it'll do. we called them up today and explained the situation. lot of bs, 'how do we know you didn't do it?" etc. basically boils down to this: if we replace it ourselves we null the warranty. has to be done by a shop, but they wont compensate any of the bill, labor or parts. we can only trade the engine in for a replacement, no refund. and they dont seem to care if we go to small claims or not. le sigh. :frown: decision time again. least we know whats wrong this time, no giant puzzle. |
looking for a good shop or mechanic Upper cover? I saw a early 96 at the Rancho Pick and pull last week. Pre emissions pump M44. I can pull it for you next time I'm out there. It is a specific cover for a motor release of a few months. Not a difficult swap. Pic of the cut? JB weld for a temp fix? Where did you source the replacement motor? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
rear cover... i'll have a few pics in a few. |
pretty constant drip when running. cut into the threads [IMG]https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7725/1...4f2f7fe0_z.jpgDSCN0623 by evie b, on Flickr[/IMG] [IMG]https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5342/1...3d6c2537_z.jpgDSCN0621 by evie b, on Flickr[/IMG] |
looking for a good shop or mechanic Forum: JB weld to seal? Gotta be really clean. Don't get it all over the chain tensioner retention housing or its washer. I bet that will work for a seal. Not a high pressure area. Alternatively, can also weld the area and retap the threads. Thoughts? :cool: |
we tried replacing the cap and washer from the original engine last night, unfortunately the cut is through all of the threads and gasket face and still leaks with the different piece. we've tossed around several ideas on this, including jb weld Quote:
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If the early 96 is still at Pick n Pull next week, I'll pull the cover from the 96 I saw there... :wink: |
that would be awesome, thank you :smile: |
In the meantime, clean the area well including the chain tensioner cap and carefully apply JB wend into the cut. It will form threads to seal (and help keep the JB Weld in place). Apply to cold, clean surface in the afternoon where it's not too cold. When I recover the cover, I'll recover the timing chain tensioner cap and washer as well. What a drag. Sorry you're gong through all this. TI fun... [emoji12] This actually reminds me, I need to locate the same cover and emissions assembly for my rebuild. Worse case, I'll send you one off my M44 as it the same one as yours as I need a late models timing chain cover in the event the Pick n Pull one is gone next week. Either way you'll have one. PM me shipping info once I have one in hand. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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