Anybody else try diesel oil
 

I just put in a new engine for my ti and started it off with conventional Diesel Motor Oil, DelVac to be exact. Just wondering if anyone has had previous experience with this alternative before. I was a bit put off at first but i have heard nothing but good reviews for this change.:biggrin:

I ran a mix of conventional oil and Shell Rotella t6 all year so far. It's been fine. It quieted down some mild valvetrain noise I had noticed prior to switching.

Never heard of using it but I'm interested in the outcome. I've broke in many engines and always used the cheapest fossil oil I could fine.

Please keep your thread updated

John S

I have several older friends who have been using it on all their vehicles since the first oil change and they are running perfectly running 400k motors and up.

I know two WRX owners who use 5w-40 Rotella t6. They seem to like it.

Send in a sample ($25) to http://www.blackstone-labs.com/. That way you can get some data on whether or not this specific oil works for your car.

Ive been using rotella t6 year round including track days for the past few years. Motor is still pumping. Rotella is marketed as diesel oil but it also has an SM rating for gasoline engines, which covers 2010 and older engines. I like it, never got a Blackstone report though.

New motor,,,, Joe Gibbs Break-in oil. your cams will thank you..
High zinc and suphur content. just what the followers/rockers/lifters like..

That sounds good i am gonna have to try that out someday.

If its still there,, , Compu-cams had a great writeup on why you need break in oil since the reformulation to low sulfur oils.

I've personally seen $30K sprint car motors flatten the cam in 20 minutes..
Next time around we used the break in oil and wham.. Good motor no issues. Made me a believer.

I also NEVER mix oils, seen two many react, turn to jello, or water thin under heat and eat engines..

For a M44 and M/S 5X zinc is not needed, it actually harms the cat converter. I have used diesel oil in my S52 but that was to quiet a loud lifter.

pdxmotorhead ~ So true when I ran my nasty Chevy 406 small block in a 2300 Vega I wiped a new solid lift cam by not using a new filter and break-in oil, took about 7 minutes to wipe that cam and it had the break in moly grease on each lobe. I wiped the new billet roller cam when I went full roller due to oil issues, two of the billet cam lobes were almost perfect round, that was a $1,000 mistake. Break in oil and RPM is very important. Break in if done wrong the motor destroys itself between 5 minutes to 1 hour. If done right the motor can last 400K or a full season on big shots of nitrous, 150 off line/400 by 60'. Had to be easy off the line so I didn't drag the bumper :tongue:

1 or 2 cycles doesn't hurt the cat a bit and the cam still needs zinc to surface harden correctly.. IF your using a new cam and new lifters/followers every place metal rubs on metal break in oil will help the motor break in without flattening/galling the lobes, its even more critical on the M42 without lifters..

Ive worked on dozens of race motors and its night and day difference how the cams look after run-in..

Oh yea, and I also run Rotella T6 15w50 in my M42. It loves the stuff runs very quiet.

Run 15w-50 in my m42 and it runs a lot smoother. Great in the Vegas summers!