M Coupe Fr&Rr Suspension on Ti??
 

If I prefer to stay away from coilovers, can I just buy a set of Koni's or Bilstein's paired with H&R Sports intended for an M Coupe? (when swapping M52 turbo). I spoke with a guy at Turner who said the struts are the same amongst aftermarket struts for M3, M Coupe, and M Roadster. I was planning on using 330 front brakes and hoping not to swap knuckles and hubs etc. Am I missing something here? Thanks!


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Yes, the M3 ones will have the extra mount for strut mount sway bar. Whether or not they are all the same i'm not can't comment but they will bolt right up. On my swap i'm running Bilstein fronts and Koni SRT rears. Springs are Mcoupe HR Sport. Rear sits too low IMO even with spacers. The brakes will be fine. It's straightforward.

At the very least you will need M3 upper spring perches to make that work. I also suggest offset lower control arm bushings and M3 upper strut mounts.

The 330 set up is nice but the M3 set up is a lot better. Compared to the 330 set up the M3 set up is lighter, has a larger piston, directionally vented rotors and the required steering knuckle improves suspension and steering geometry.

I sell a top side adjustable rear Koni for the ti. I prefer that to the remove-to-adjust off the shelf units.

Happy to help with your set up, just shoot me an email.

Ed@BimmerBum.com


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The other thing to consider (if you want the superior front M3-style strut-mounted sway bar tabs) is that adjustable rebound Koni Sports are inserts. This means you must cut off the top of the factory M3 Bilstein front strut bodies and drill a hole in the bottom to mount the Koni insert. Since I already had new 4-cylinder spec Koni Sports on my 318ti when I swapped in 6-cylinder engine, I merely swapped over the M3 hubs/spindles/brakes, which also increased the negative camber. But I kept the factory M3 strut bodies so that I can buy 6-cylinder spec Koni struts at a later date to better handle the extra weight.

One other thing to consider if you go the M Coupe/Roadster route is to also grab the larger-bore master cylinder/booster from the M car. I swapped in the M3 master/booster when I did the front M3 engine and brake swap, and also swapped in larger-bore E34 calipers in the rear to maintain good front/rear brake bias.

I'm still running the original ti brake master. It's fine. Has been for almost two decades.

Unless you can properly bleed the system, you could make it worse swapping the master.

Are you guys using the factory ASC system or removed it?


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Gone. It won't work unless you swap every harness and module from the M3. It has a completely different architecture than the ti.

Pullnthe secondary throttle and use an early rubber boot to the air mass meter. Leave the actuator on the fender plugged in and just remove the cable. Otherwise you get an abs error light.

The only form of any such system I wouldn't mind having would be abs. However, I don't know if it's possible to gut these systems through software. That said, I kinda don't even want to mess with it and definitely don't want to spend money making it work.


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ABS still works.