Unfortunately one wire at a time and make sure you label them. You have to remove the squid to get the intake off. But even with a disconnect you would also have to disconnect the components that the squid connects too.

The squid is a twist connector to release. If you can stand up in the engine compartment like I did I could easily see the nuts and wires to the starter.

BTW a head lamp (a good investment under $50) from a sporting store works great.. I hate having to hold or wedge a flashlight. I had great access and vision from that point on. Also pick up a telescope mechanic's mirror from Harbor Freight or auto parts store, comes in handy.

The file sizes of my pics are too large to upload. I am bummed big time !!:frown:

Where? There should be a connector under the squid to remove the casing so the intake can be removed

You sound a little puzzled, your first word was Where ? Taking the puzzle apart. I am sure a lot of us have used the thread by CirrusSR22 to get pics of the tear down. Before I forget, do label all the connectors of the squid as suggested by my fellow club member. Keep stepping back and see what looks like it could be removed next. You will have to feel your way around some components to detect another bolt or wire that needs to be removed in the process of disassembly. (get a headlamp buddy) I failed to mention that you have to remove the fan housing and the radiator to accommodate you to stand inside the engine compartment. If you cannot don't worry, just your back may get a little sore. Lift the part out gently to make sure you have all the connectors undone. Once the squid is out, the dissasembly speeds up. Replace all your hoses and both plastic fittings. Good time to change the water pump as well. I recommend the pump with the composite material impeller. Also change your belts and idler pulleys. Keep checking back for support and attach a low resolution digital picture. It helps us to help you. Have fun !!

I mean where is the twist connector. Don't think mine has one. It's just wires in and out.

My Z3 is a 1997 1.9L. What helped me immensely was taking pics (gotta be low resolution to attach in the forum). It would be helpful to see what you are looking at. The wires to all of the sensors, starter solenoid, alternator, all lead back to a central hub (that is a lot of wires). The hub and all of the wires leading out of it is the squid. What keeps the squid anchored to the electrical system? Can you post several pictures, that is a great assistance.

Anyone have pictures of he connectors that are under the lower intake? I have one connector I can't find a home for.

I don't have pics, but if you could post some I may be able to help you track it down. Taken mine off along with the squid too many times so far! :D

Extra Lead
 

My pics did not load because the file sizes are too large.. lesson learned.

Are you referring to the squid wire dangling free on the firewall side of the intake manifold ? That was a problem I encountered in my case. The lead goes to the Change Over Valve on the bottom of the Intake Manifold.

The car will run smooth without it connected, and you can also make this connection with the manifold in place, you just cannot see it.

Google: BMW 318i change over valve location top of the webpage, click on the left image and follow the arrows. Pics courtesy Pelican Parts.

Yup it was a hidden plug to that vavle. Thanks!

How about the two vacuum lines in he front? The one that comes from the vacuum pump actuator goes into the sensor bolted to the intake correct? And the one that comes from under the intake manifold goes straight into the intake manifold. Right?

This "sensor"
http://i674.photobucket.com/albums/v...62D1645EE3.jpg

What year and model is your BMW ?

'97 318ti

I know the connector, but can't see the corresponding wire in your close-up. Can you get another shot of the whole area? I can then tell you exactly which one. My '97 is exactly the same.

I overhauled my cooling system at 110K miles, but for some reason the seal on the plastic piece gave out last/this winter. Since everything was redone only about 25K miles ago, all I needed to do was clean up and replace the plastic piece and seal on my M42. I was able to do this without disconnecting all the wires from the squid. I pulled the intake with squid attached away from the block and had enough room to work, but did not have to undo any of the starter or backup switch wires. Just in case anyone gets into a similar situation, that saved me a lot of time and effort.

I would still suggest removing the full squid and intake if you are overhauling all the hoses along with the plastic bits.