BMW garage may have cracked oil pan
 

Just had to vent here. Three weeks ago, I took my 95 Sport into a garage that specializes in BMWs. I had 81K on a car that I bought in March of this year, so I thought I should have the Inspection II done by a professional, rather than doing it myself. Perhaps, they would identify problem areas that I had overlooked when I bought the car. When I pick the car up, they recommended I put new pads in the rear, but nothing other than that.

Well, last night I noticed motor oil on the ground below. Checked it again this morning, and same thing, but not as much. I take it to a garage near my house. Put it up on the lift, take a look underneath, and notice a small hairline crack about the length of a thumbnail on the oil pan near the drain bolt. The crack runs parallel to the bolt (I didn't have my camera so I can't post any pictures). We come to the same conclusion, someone over torqued the bolt.

I'm taking it to the BMW "specialists" on Tuesday, after the holiday weekend. Haven't told them about the crack, nor the fact that I suspect they are at fault.

Of course, two sides to every story (and this post is becoming quite a long one). It has been three weeks. And, I made a 700 mile trip from Philly to the tip of the Lower Peninsula of Michigan and back. Furthermore, I ran something over when I was pinned by a car and a semi on the highway. It broke a plastic "deflector" in front of the rear passenger wheel that prevents any debris from lodging into the rear wheel well. However, the oil pan, nor anything in the front for that matter, is undamaged. No dents or pits. Just a leaky oil pan.

Any recommendations for me when I go back to the garage on Tuesday? I'm not looking forward to it.

Replacing an oilpan is expense. If it's like the 328, the engine has to be lifted slightly. The expense goes to labor. I have read these costing $700.00.

You could probably do it yourself if you had to. Buy a torque wrench. Go get a pan off a wrecked 318 of some sort. Should be too bad. But at least go pull a pan or buy one used before the shop rapes you. Make sure the pan is super cleaned on the bottom though for assurance

I really hope welding is the answer. Looking at the Bentley manual, DIY is not a pretty picture. It involves supporting the engine, removing the suspension crossmember and various other parts of the steering system. Not fun. On the plus side, "installation is reverse of removal"... Has anyone worked on their oil pan? Any tips?

I did change my shocks and springs myself, but this seems a little over my head. My impact wrench will make things easier, but still. My maintenance plan for the car was R&R of the entire cooling system, RTABs, and then LCAs and bushings. This will push things back a little.

You should be able to rent one of the engine support braces. You can raise the engine from bellow with a jack and use the engine support braces to hold it in place. Take advantage of the situation and replace your subframe bushings and sway bar bushings, LCABs, control arms and ball joints and install an X-brace. Or just do an engine swap. :)

This may be a really stupid suggestion as I am not as mechanically experienced as many people here. But if you have not taken the drain bolt off or loosened it, take your torque wrench with you and show them how much force it takes to remove it. In my experience with mechanics, the guys who are good to you and moral arn't the best techinical mechanics, and the ones that really know their **** don't give a damn about you. Doing it yourself is always better.

I was wondering about that as an option. Is there any chance that the crack could be welded (or soldered, or brazed?) without removing the pan? Yes, I do know that welding requires heat and oil is flammable. heh heh Just asking in case someone has done this sort of thing.

From what I've read about bicycle frame construction methods, I know that there are a variety of methods of joining metal parts and each requires a different amount of heat.

Go to a GOOD marine shop that works on boat outdrives.
They are used to this kind of repair. A good tig welder will
be able to weld it right up with little problem.

Now,,, Remember, welds can crack, he's pulling a hail mary for you.
If it doesn't work You now get to change the oil pan. It may not
crack for a LONG LONG time, it make crack 5 minutes later (Not likely).

Are you sure its a crack? They didn't just forget the copper washer on the drain plug? Or accidentaly re-use the old one?

Dave