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-   -   96 318ti Expansion Coolant Tank (http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=36610)

nc318tigurl 07-03-2012 07:32 PM

96 318ti Expansion Coolant Tank
 
Hey guys, I have a leak that I discovered after my acquisition of a 96 318ti manual. Based on the weeping ring an coolant residue around the bottom of the expansion tank, I have reason to believe that either the o-ring is damaged or something is causing the tank to leak. When I turn the car on an put the a.c.on, the coolant pours out from that area/side of that tank. I have not tried starting w/o the a.c on, I'll post that next, but it seemed as my tank was very low upon inspection an I know there was more. I will post again when I can, nut any help would be greatly appreciated it. I'm scared to drive under these conditions an do not want the car to overheat.

cooljess76 07-03-2012 08:27 PM

I recommend replacing the entire cooling system or the radiator at the very least. If you have coolant leaking, you can pretty much assume that air is getting it. Overheating due to airlock is a bigger problem that you should concern yourself with. And like always, I recommend that any time you open the coolant loop, whether it be replacing parts or simply topping off the system with coolant, always follow with a PROPER bleed. Read my post in this thread, the links should be helpful:
http://www.318ti.org/forum/showpost....42&postcount=3

bazar01 07-03-2012 09:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nc318tigurl (Post 333480)
Hey guys, I have a leak that I discovered after my acquisition of a 96 318ti manual. Based on the weeping ring an coolant residue around the bottom of the expansion tank, I have reason to believe that either the o-ring is damaged or something is causing the tank to leak. When I turn the car on an put the a.c.on, the coolant pours out from that area/side of that tank. I have not tried starting w/o the a.c on, I'll post that next, but it seemed as my tank was very low upon inspection an I know there was more. I will post again when I can, nut any help would be greatly appreciated it. I'm scared to drive under these conditions an do not want the car to overheat.

Congratulations on acquring a 318TI. Very dependable and nimble car.

If you want to enjoy driving this car for a long time, you need to address the cooling system overdue maintenance soonest possible esspecially on high mileage ones with over 140k miles. I bought mine for my daughter with 175k miles and a blown engine due to overheat. The previous owner practically just gave me the car since the shop quoted him $4500 to replace the engine. I guess the cooling system on these cars only last about 150k miles or 170k miles at most. How many miles on your car?

The most notorious cooling system parts that give up are the plastic tubes and hoses in the rear, under the intake manifold and in the engine front, and the plastic expansion tank integral to the radiator.

When I replaced my engine, I found out the plastic expansion tank in the radiator was also leaking like yours. I tried to reseal it with RTV to no avail. I ended up buying a new radiator. Too much of a risk to overheat the $1000 engine swap.

Good luck.

jca 07-03-2012 10:40 PM

+1 to all of the above. While you're replacing the radiator go ahead and replace the thermostat and the water pump, too. They both are considered 60,000 mile replacement items by good BMW mechanics. The radiator may last 100k. Much better, and much less expensive to maintain rather than repair a BMW.

Bobtail_Bimmer 07-03-2012 10:59 PM

I know in your other thread it was mentioned that the $5 o-ring solved that persons problem but for a large number of people on here the o-ring did nothing except waste them $5 and the time it took to replace it. I also here it s huge PITA to do! If you at least do the radiator/expansion tank then your looking at around $145-150 which all things considered isnt too bad if you think of what the cost could be worst case scenario. If you got the $ to get the rest of the cooling items replaced as the above posts have stated then do so. You can get it all done in a day and in the long run you will thank yourself for the extra piece of mind.

nc318tigurl 07-03-2012 11:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cooljess76 (Post 333488)
I recommend replacing the entire cooling system or the radiator at the very least. If you have coolant leaking, you can pretty much assume that air is getting it. Overheating due to airlock is a bigger problem that you should concern yourself with. And like always, I recommend that any time you open the coolant loop, whether it be replacing parts or simply topping off the system with coolant, always follow with a PROPER bleed. Read my post in this thread, the links should be helpful:
http://www.318ti.org/forum/showpost....42&postcount=3

I found a behr radiator from car quest at about $160 - $170 range. How hard is it to change the radiator on youir own? I dont have many friends and anyone who would be able to help me, so its a solo job. An with the bleeding, how much coolant should I buy an will it be the good stuff? I hate to waste the good stuff, but I will do what I have to!

nc318tigurl 07-03-2012 11:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jca (Post 333497)
+1 to all of the above. While you're replacing the radiator go ahead and replace the thermostat and the water pump, too. They both are considered 60,000 mile replacement items by good BMW mechanics. The radiator may last 100k. Much better, and much less expensive to maintain rather than repair a BMW.

Where is the thermostat? Im use to japanese car locations, but cannot find it on the beamer :frown:

pdxmotorhead 07-04-2012 01:26 AM

its behind the gadget the radiator hoses connect to on the front of the block.

Dave

cooljess76 07-04-2012 03:27 AM

If you're not used to working on cars, this is probably one of those things where you should enlist the help of someone who is. I recommmend finding a REPUTABLE independent mechanic who is qualified to work on BMW's. If you get in over your head on this, things can go south real fast.

nc318tigurl 07-04-2012 05:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cooljess76 (Post 333528)
If you're not used to working on cars, this is probably one of those things where you should enlist the help of someone who is. I recommmend finding a REPUTABLE independent mechanic who is qualified to work on BMW's. If you get in over your head on this, things can go south real fast.

I've worked on cars before, Im not a stranger to it. I dont like the idea of a mechanic trying to take advantage of me...so I learned from my dad. I just want to know if its a standard radiator swap or is it something extensive and different involved in the process.

cooljess76 07-04-2012 05:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nc318tigurl (Post 333544)
I've worked on cars before, Im not a stranger to it. I dont like the idea of a mechanic trying to take advantage of me...so I learned from my dad. I just want to know if its a standard radiator swap or is it something extensive and different involved in the process.

Oh I see, well in that case yes the radiator swap is pretty cut and dry. The upper clips can be a pain in the butt sometimes. I usually recommend BMW coolant, but unless you're going to flush the entire system, I'd just use the same coolant that's already in there as it's not a good idea to mix different coolants. You'll probably need 1.5-2 gallons, but you might be able to get away with only 1 gallon if you salvage the coolant from your old radiator. Most importantly, make sure you bleed the system afterwards.

It sucks that there's a lot of shady mechanics out there that will absolutely take advantage of people, especially if you drive up in a BMW. FWIW, I was refering to the rest of the cooling system replacement that can get pretty sketchy if you're not comfortable with a wrench. For example, the water pumps usually crumble and become lodged in the engine when you try to remove them. First instinct is to pry it out, but that can easily cause more expensive damage. The best way to remove a stubborn water pump is by gripping it with a BIG pair of channel locks and rotating it side to side while gradually pulling it out of the engine. I always recommend replacing the entire cooling system in one shotsince the bleed procedure is pretty tricky and usually takes several attempts to get all of the air out of the system. Head gasket failure due to overheating is the number one killer of these engines. Trust me, you don't want to go down that road. So being that these cars are getting old, the plastic parts and rubber hoses that are known to crack and fail should be replaced along with the common wear components such as the radiator, thermostat and water pump. Best wishes and welcome to the forum:smile:

nc318tigurl 07-04-2012 05:46 AM

Well, the coolant is pretty low, so if I grabbed some BMW coolant, would I be alright to mix it with whats in there already/add to it? The previous owner had a gallon of proline coolant in the trunk

http://static.pepboys.com/images/pro...llstrength.jpg

Is this good to use or get rid of it? I can only assume that he placed this type of coolant in the expansion tank.

cooljess76 07-04-2012 06:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nc318tigurl (Post 333551)
Well, the coolant is pretty low, so if I grabbed some BMW coolant, would I be alright to mix it with whats in there already/add to it? The previous owner had a gallon of proline coolant in the trunk

Is this good to use or get rid of it? I can only assume that he placed this type of coolant in the expansion tank.

I edited my previous post while you were typing.

I don't think you're supposed to use that type of coolant in these engines. I could be wrong, but I think BMW coolant doesn't have glycol or something to that effect. Hopefully someone else will chime in. That being said, I wouldn't recommend mixing coolants. My best advice is to flush all of the old stuff out of your engine and heater core, then start fresh with BMW coolant. If you plan on doing all of your own maintenance, you may want to consider purchasing a Bentley manual. They cost about 30-40 bucks or at the very least you might want to pick up a Haynes manual from your local auto parts store. Neither of them are 318ti specific, so you'll need to get one for the BMW e36 1992-1999. You can also find good info in the knowledge base section of this forum as well as the tech article section on pelicanparts.com. If you don't want to buy the Bentley manual, there's a PDF copy floating around somewhere on the forum, but I always like to have the book so I can refer to it while I'm under the hood instead of getting my keyboard greasy.

Some really good resource is www.realoem.com. Here you could find any part number or illustration you'll ever need for your car. Just type in the last 7 digits of your VIN and all of the information regarding your particular year and model will become available. I highly recommend creating a shortcut to your desktop after you enter your VIN. This will come in handly as a quick reference for part numbers and illustrations later down the road. For parts, I usually recommend www.getbmwparts.com, pelicanparts.com and ecstuning.com. These places sell genuine BMW parts for a fraction of the price you'd pay at the dealer. All of them have excellent service. Personally I compare the prices between the three and go with the cheapest, however sometimes shipping spoils the deal when you're just purchasing one or two small items. So what I like to do is keep a "wish list" file on my computer and wait until I get enouogh stuff to make shipping worth while, then I'll compare prices and place the order.

Hope that helps.

cooljess76 07-04-2012 06:18 AM

Here's a couple threads about coolant that should be helpful:
http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?p=307176
http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?p=255225

nc318tigurl 07-04-2012 06:38 AM

Found a deal on a haynes manual, an will be picking that up. I will search the above threads for the flush procedure and grat about 2 gallons or so from BMW. Are they 50/50 or do I have to do the mix water stuff? Ty for all of the tips, I plan on doing it right vs doing things twice!

cooljess76 07-04-2012 06:43 AM

The BMW coolant is premixed and you're very welcome, always happy to help a fellow enthusiast.

FWIW, when using non-premixed coolant only use distilled water.

Bobtail_Bimmer 07-04-2012 11:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nc318tigurl (Post 333560)
Found a deal on a haynes manual, an will be picking that up. I will search the above threads for the flush procedure and grat about 2 gallons or so from BMW. Are they 50/50 or do I have to do the mix water stuff? Ty for all of the tips, I plan on doing it right vs doing things twice!

Here is a link to a free Bentley manual that another member had posted. Just click and save to your desktop. Might find a few things that the Haynes manual dose not mention. Its helped me out a few times.

http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...13413980066355

nc318tigurl 07-04-2012 08:31 PM

^ Ty. I have acquired the paperback book. I will compare notes with the link above when needed!

nc318tigurl 08-09-2012 10:30 PM

Hey guys! I wanted to give an update since I was out of the states for a little while and came back several days ago. I changed the radiator and bleed the coolant heres what I was dealing with;
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...NDUyLmpwZw.jpg

I believe this was the area of the radiator that was loosing coolant and running hot.

Changed to the new one, its a BEHR
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...NDQ5LmpwZw.jpg
Question, does the expansion tanks have a run off or internal drain of some sort? I noticed that there was coolant running inside of the expansion tank and on to the hose after toping off the tank and going over the top during the bleeding process.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...NDUxLmpwZw.jpg
It eventually stopped, but it FREAKED ME OUT since I KNOW that hose was NOT DAMAGED! Checked the inside of the car during the process as quick as I possibly could, while getting some pedal revs in there,
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...NDUwLmpwZw.jpg
Stayed right at the half way mark vs the old radiator where it gradually shot over the halfway mark and towards danger!

Bubbles stopped, Im sure I lost more than a quart of coolant, but the fan DID KICK ON when it reached operating temperature I guess. I was just glad it turned on because I was concerned about this before. This was with the heat blasting. Heat became hot after a while, an when I saw no more drainage I turned the car off and returned it from its slight incline.

Test drive went well, stayed on the half way mark. When I put the a/c on it did more a centermeter off the half mark towards the right but never a whole lot more than that, an that was at full blast. I checked to see if the fan would kick on during ac usage and it eventually kick on as well. Not constant as I would like but at least they BOTH COME ON in both instances!

Im glad to have done this. It was a learning experience and although I JUST GOT FINISHED after starting at 10am, at least I DID IT MYSELF and not the dealership!

Only two questions I have left is, I noticed the coolant is now down to the halfway mark vs at the top over the course of driving and sitting for a bit. There are no leaks. Should I be concerned or is it simply coolant subsiding into the engine AND is it safe to top off or do I have to bleed all over again?

The second is what are the wire plugs on the left and where do they go???
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...NDUzLmpwZw.jpg

Thanks for all the help and viewing my "job" lol.

Bobtail_Bimmer 08-10-2012 12:08 AM

YOU GO GIRL! lol

Congrates on getting it done!

BlackBMWs 08-10-2012 12:22 AM

Nice!

The plug looks like the ones for the fog lamps. See if you have one on each side not connected to the fog/driving lights. Do you know if your 318ti is a standard or an Active model? It could also be the connector for the alarm horn, being on the front passenger side.

Check coolant level over the next few days, but as you probably know, not when it's hot. OK. to add to it when it's cool to the Kalt or cool level.

Don't know of a coolant return off the expansion tank. I believe the cap is set to 2.0 BAR if it over pressurizes or too full. I like the BMW coolant as it will dry white so it's easy to see areas that leak or overflow.

Probably says it in the DIY, but take care not to overtighten the bleed screw on the top of the radiator.expansion tank. It can strip easily.

So, as a few have mentioned, the other parts of the cooling system are ones to watch or predict as the weak links after the amount of mileage. Water pump and hoses are typically next for me. the two plastic connectors can be problematic as they get brittle and can break. Perhaps they were replaced 70k ago if the engine was replaced, but maybe not. the hoses and 1 of the connectors are easy to change. The rear one on the M44 is a challenge and if your "Golden hands" happen to be small, it may be an easier job for you. My paws are too big to make it an easy job. :rolleyes:

Anyway, GREAT job on the replacement. You're off to a good start!

Cheers! :cool:

nc318tigurl 08-10-2012 02:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bobtail_Bimmer (Post 336270)
YOU GO GIRL! lol

Congrates on getting it done!

TY! 1st big BMW job!

nc318tigurl 08-10-2012 02:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlackBMWs (Post 336271)
Nice!

The plug looks like the ones for the fog lamps. See if you have one on each side not connected to the fog/driving lights. Do you know if your 318ti is a standard or an Active model? It could also be the connector for the alarm horn, being on the front passenger side.

I didn't see a set on the drivers side. I'm not sure what you mean by "standard or active". Its a 5 speed ti, manual ac controls etc. I totally forgot about fogs & an alarm never crossed my mind. :eek:

Check coolant level over the next few days, but as you probably know, not when it's hot.

Got that, BUT can I top off w/o having to bleed again???

Don't know of a coolant return off the expansion tank. I believe the cap is set to 2.0 BAR if it over pressurizes or too full. I like the BMW coolant as it will dry white so it's easy to see areas that leak or overflow.

Probably says it in the DIY, but take care not to overtighten the bleed screw on the top of the radiator.expansion tank. It can strip easily.

So, as a few have mentioned, the other parts of the cooling system are ones to watch or predict as the weak links after the amount of mileage. Water pump and hoses are typically next for me. the two plastic connectors can be problematic as they get brittle and can break. Perhaps they were replaced 70k ago if the engine was replaced, but maybe not. the hoses and 1 of the connectors are easy to change. The rear one on the M44 is a challenge and if your "Golden hands" happen to be small, it may be an easier job for you. My paws are too big to make it an easy job. :rolleyes:

Anyway, GREAT job on the replacement. Your off to a good start!

Cheers! :cool:

Ill start monitoring the other areas, I'm just glad that part is over!

cooljess76 08-10-2012 03:03 AM

You did good! Drive it for a couple days and then this weekend give it one more good bleed session. The expansion tank is self-leveling, but to be honest I have no idea where the extra coolant goes. It's a mystery that I've yet to figure out:confused: When I bled mine, I used to fill it all the way to the top of the fill neck to the point that it spilled out. Then after driving it and letting it cool, the level would be right at the "kalt" mark where it was supposed to be and there was no sign of coolant leaking or venting off:cool:

BlackBMWs 08-10-2012 04:12 AM

There were three 318ti model packages in 96. Standard, Active and Sport. Standard is the base model, the Sport and the Active added desirable options as a bundled package. I don't believe yours is a Sport, but, perhaps an Active or Standard. I ask as the Active came standard with an alarm package while it may have been an option on a Standard.

If it's an Active, there would be an alarm siren on the passenger side. :) Does your ti happen to have Cruise Control, leather steering wheel and an alarm? If it does, it's likely an Active package.

Cheers! :cool:

nc318tigurl 08-10-2012 03:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlackBMWs (Post 336283)
There were three 318ti model packages in 96. Standard, Active and Sport. Standard is the base model, the Sport and the Active added desirable options as a bundled package. I don't believe yours is a Sport, but, perhaps an Active or Standard. I ask as the Active came standard with an alarm package while it may have been an option on a Standard.

If it's an Active, there would be an alarm siren on the passenger side. :) Does your ti happen to have Cruise Control, leather steering wheel and an alarm? If it does, it's likely an Active package.

Cheers! :cool:

No alarm, fabric seats, manual ac controls and I'll have to check for cruise as I dont use cruise control.

nc318tigurl 08-10-2012 03:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cooljess76 (Post 336280)
You did good! Drive it for a couple days and then this weekend give it one more good bleed session. The expansion tank is self-leveling, but to be honest I have no idea where the extra coolant goes. It's a mystery that I've yet to figure out:confused: When I bled mine, I used to fill it all the way to the top of the fill neck to the point that it spilled out. Then after driving it and letting it cool, the level would be right at the "kalt" mark where it was supposed to be and there was no sign of coolant leaking or venting off:cool:

TY, but I still need to know if it is safe to top off w/o worries of air or bleeding prematurely.

BlackBMWs 08-10-2012 05:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nc318tigurl (Post 336307)
TY, but I still need to know if it is safe to top off w/o worries of air or bleeding prematurely.

Yes, O.K. to top off to Kalt line as needed. I'm doing this myself as well over the next few days. I will open the bleed screw when it's up to operating temp to check for no bubbles. I try to get all air out of the system over the check days.

I used a 50/50 mix of BMW AF and distilled water. :cool:

cooljess76 08-10-2012 06:43 PM

I never just add coolant as I always bleed the system whenever I top it off. Therefore I top off to the top of the fill neck and it self-levels after driving it. I wouldn't recommend removing the bleed screw or radiator cap when the engine is at operating temp. I had a radiator cap blow of and cover me with boiling water at a car meet one time. I think the same thing happened to wolferj. The pressure caused the coolant to rush out like a geyser shooting about 5 or 6 feet in the air and it practically emptied my radiator. This was after the car sat for about an hour and I thought it would be safe to top it off(had to bleed it daily due to a cracked radiator). I'm pretty sure the BMW antifreeze is pre mixed 50/50. Too much water can allow it to freeze and I think it also lowers the boiling point so be careful not to over dilute it:wink:

BlackBMWs 08-11-2012 12:37 AM

:cool:Hey Jess!

Since I happed to be refilling my radiator yesterday I checked the BMW coolant label for mixing coolant and distilled water. I had always used a 1:1 mix of BMW coolant and Distilled water and perhaps I shouldn't have.

http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/p...s/f10acd30.jpg

The way I read it at least this coolant is made to cut down 60/40 or 50/50. The label also confirms BMWs recommendation of not mixing coolant types as they may contain phosphates.

I see the premixed coolant at the autostores going for $12 or so per gal, so a 50/50 mix of the $24 BMW stuff, 1 gal BMW AF plus 1 gal distilled water=2 gal, refill quantity) is still perhaps a little more cash wise, but does not contain phosphates and and in some cases, as in my Zionsville aluminum rad on the 540it, is required to be in warrenty.

Thanks for the rad cap removal clarification. Yeah, don't remove when hot. I have however bled via the bleed screw when at operating temp as the Thermostat is typically open and the system can pass excess air at it's high point. Old school from the M30 motors.

However, rereading the Bentley, you are right. Use the bleed screw when cool, closed when hot. I guess I've been lucky in the past. I can be taught... :biggrin:

Thanks!

cooljess76 08-11-2012 03:49 AM

I guess I learned something new today. Could've swore I've read somewhere that the BMW coolant was pre-diluted. I've never used it before but I plan to once I get my car back on the road. Good to know, thanks for clarifying:smile:

nc318tigurl 08-11-2012 02:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlackBMWs (Post 336317)
Yes, O.K. to top off to Kalt line as needed. I'm doing this myself as well over the next few days. I will open the bleed screw when it's up to operating temp to check for no bubbles. I try to get all air out of the system over the check days.

I used a 50/50 mix of BMW AF and distilled water. :cool:

Good deal. doing it now and going to drive to work. I'll monitor the progress, tnx!

Quote:

Originally Posted by cooljess76;336322[U
]I never just add coolant as I always bleed the system whenever I top it off[/U]. Therefore I top off to the top of the fill neck and it self-levels after driving it. I wouldn't recommend removing the bleed screw or radiator cap when the engine is at operating temp.

Wait, didnt some one JUST tell me this was OK??? :confused: Getting scared now :eek:.

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlackBMWs (Post 336363)
:cool:Hey Jess!

Since I happed to be refilling my radiator yesterday I checked the BMW coolant label for mixing coolant and distilled water. I had always used a 1:1 mix of BMW coolant and Distilled water and perhaps I shouldn't have.

Wait WHAT?!!! I just DID THIS!!! Should I be concerned???

http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/p...s/f10acd30.jpg

The way I read it at least this coolant is made to cut down 60/40 or 50/50. The label also confirms BMWs recommendation of not mixing coolant types as they may contain phosphates.

I see the premixed coolant at the autostores going for $12 or so per gal, so a 50/50 mix of the $24 BMW stuff, 1 gal BMW AF plus 1 gal distilled water=2 gal, refill quantity) is still perhaps a little more cash wise, but does not contain phosphates and and in some cases, as in my Zionsville aluminum rad on the 540it, is required to be in warrenty.

Thanks for the rad cap removal clarification. Yeah, don't remove when hot. I have however bled via the bleed screw when at operating temp as the Thermostat is typically open and the system can pass excess air at it's high point. Old school from the M30 motors.

However, rereading the Bentley, you are right. Use the bleed screw when cool, closed when hot. I guess I've been lucky in the past. I can be taught... :biggrin:

Thanks!


Guys...I went from super happy and proud of what I've done to "I'm scared ****less" of whats going to happen to my car due to fragmented information! PLEASE clarify the above. I feel like a kid who was told to join the marines, the army and the navy, all in the same day with all the reasons WHY.

nc318tigurl 08-11-2012 02:15 PM

An what TURDS! They tested the glycol on animals!

spidertri 08-11-2012 03:53 PM

You were correct in mixing the antifreeze with distilled water 50/50. Technically, water is a better coolant by itself but it needs the antifreeze for the cold weather driving.

To bleed the system correctly you have to open the bleed screw and rad cap while the engine is running so it is going to get warm.

You just don't want to open either the screw or cap after the engine has gotten all the way to operating temperature. Let it cool down a bit before opening the system so the pressure drops. That way you won't get a face full of boiling coolant.

The upper rad hose should be pretty hard at operating temp (it will also be very hot!) and when cool you should be able to squeeze it pretty easily.

BlackBMWs 08-11-2012 10:02 PM

Sorry, bad choice of words on my part. You're good with a 50/50 mix. :cool:


Quote:

Originally Posted by nc318tigurl (Post 336422)
Good deal. doing it now and going to drive to work. I'll monitor the progress, tnx!



Wait, didnt some one JUST tell me this was OK??? :confused: Getting scared now :eek:.




Guys...I went from super happy and proud of what I've done to "I'm scared ****less" of whats going to happen to my car due to fragmented information! PLEASE clarify the above. I feel like a kid who was told to join the marines, the army and the navy, all in the same day with all the reasons WHY.


Ivan 11-10-2017 11:40 AM

Hello.. unfortunately im also here...
Problems started last year in May when my mechanic forgot to plug radiator fan after finishing replacing gaskets on the engine block. My mother drove the car and realised that its overheating after it have boiled and dumped all the coolant out. After that my expansion tank started leaking real hard. I disassembled it and realised that it had been cracked before, but crack could you belive sealed over time and i was loosing about 60ml of antifreeze per year. Well that crack have opened now probably due to pressure and heat and i needed a new tank. Mechanick refused to cover my tank expense and i got aftermarket tank. After my order came i was like what the hell because it had ton of sharp edges from the mold it was made in i guess. I was worried how its going to seal and it ofc didnt. Here I am a year later leaking more and more every day and not knowing what to do. I tried doing everyting to that gasket and it just doesnt care and keeps on leaking. My air release valve on top of radiator (i dont know what its called in english but you get it i hope) started leaking also. Im just about to go to BMW dealer and just say fix it and give them the keys because nothing i do doesnt seem do make any difference.
I would apprechiate if i got some advice.

Ivan 11-10-2017 08:42 PM

Just found insanely small crack in part where expansion tank connects with radiator.. Thats probably explanation for everything


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