98 318ti code P1174 Help please!!
 

Hey guys!! So my car is due for inspection next month, and I have
A CEL on for code P1174, however the car still runs and drives fine. I've searched various forums to see what all could be faulty and replaced:
-intake boot between the MAF and throttle body
-cleaned the MAF
-drilled the rivets out of the Secondary Air Pump, and replaced them with nuts and bolts
all of this to no avail. Any input would be greatly appreciated, thank you!!

I have the same deal and am planning on replacing the PCV valve.

Vacuum leak.

I found lots of info on the site.

I've had luck simply disconnecting the battery for 30mins and then reconnecting. Not a guaranteed fix but worth a shot?

1. O2 sensor before cat converter or exhaust leak before O2. 2. fuel pressure regulator not providing correct pressure. 3. Dirty injector maybe

I appreciate the suggestions. I think that I'll put one more weekend fiddling with this thing before I take it to the shop.

An interesting side note. My car has no plates, bought it out of state and temp tags have expired. I have been doing a repair, resetting light and driving it around nervous with no plates until the system shows ready, or check engine light comes on for something else. (only the ladder in my case).

In talking with the shop, they said that they would fix it and get it to pass emissions without the driving cycle. That they had ways. Does anybody know those ways, or heard of that?

Here's a few items that may help, also remember that if you clear any code in the DME it will reset the readiness and you will have to start over:

1. Engine cold start, idling, approximately 3 minutes. Evaluated:
• Secondary Air System
• Evaporative Leak Detection (LDP Equipped Vehicles)
2. Constant driving at 20 to 30 MPH, approximately 4 minutes. Evaluated:
• Oxygen Sensors - Achieved “Closed Loop” Operation
• Oxygen Sensors - Response Time and Switching Time (Control Frequency)
3. Constant driving at 40 to 60 MPH, approximately 15 minutes (sufficient vehicle coast
ing phases included). Evaluated:
• Catalytic Converter Efficiency
• Oxygen Sensors - Response Time and Switching Time (Control Frequency)
4. Engine idling, approximately 5 minutes. Evaluated:
• Tank-Leak Diagnosis (DM TL Equipped Vehicles after KL 15 is switched OFF)
NOTE: The diagnostic sequence illustrated above will be interrupted if:
• The engine speed exceeds 3000 RPM.
• Large fluctuations in the accelerator pedal position.
• The driving speed exceeds 60 MPH.



Start engine stone cold and let idle for 3 minutes with loads on (rear window defroster, headlights, heated seats, etc).
Drive normally to your chosen road.
Accelerate with no more than 25-30% throttle to 25MPH and hold for 2 minutes.
Accelerate with no more than 25-30% throttle to 50-55MPH and hold for 2 minutes.
Decelerate to a full stop.

To perform an OBDII Driving cycle do the following:
•Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 50°C (122°F) and within 6°C (11°F) of the ambient air temperature at startup. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.

2.Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.

3.Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 88km/hr (55mph) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.

4.Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

5.Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 32km/hr (20 mph). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

6.Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 88-96 km/hr (55-60mph). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.

7.Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.

8.Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.


http://bimmerscan.com/CL/drivecycle.jpg

Sorry posted the drive cycle first instead of this:

http://bimmerscan.com/CL/sec1.jpg

http://bimmerscan.com/CL/sec2.jpg

http://bimmerscan.com/CL/sec3.jpg

http://bimmerscan.com/CL/sec4.jpg

I had the same code, see below and hunted it down for weeks. Ended up being the vacuum hose between the electric valve control and canister.

http://www.bimmerscan.com/CL/P1174.jpg

Deleted

Thanks for posting that, looks like you have one hell of a diagnosing machine.

Quick question. I'm still chasing a vacuum leak somewhere, did the PCV valve and hose, all the intakes, looked around sprayed the cleaner to no avail. Debating taking off the intake manifold and replacing hoses etc.

One thing I do know is that my rivets leak when the SAP pump is on. I figure that it leaks when the engine is running as well. If I squeeze the top back on the canister the leaking air sound does NOT go away. I figued that if the pump is leaking on the intake side, it is before the MAF thus that air is metered.

Just wondering why Secondary Air pumps get tied up with the 1174 code? I thought they throw a 1423.

Thank you, it's genuine factory! It all boils down to intake leaks causing the car to run lean - O2 sensors are unable to make it any richer - they have hit their limit of adjustment. If you do remove the intake the sap will be removed thus making it easy to reseal - I would also do the rubber mounts on it at the same time. I just removed the manifold on my son's 97 and replaced all the hoses. I also did the starter while I was there and re-sealed the oil filter housing as I had the airbox, alt, etc already off. It took the day but got a lot done.

I've been chasing this code for a while as well. I replaced the O2 sensor before the cat, and also replaced the crank case valve (p/n 11157501567 from realoem) which had internal issues. Reset the check engine light and I'm 2 weeks and 350+ miles check engine light free.

Remember you can always speed things up by running the readiness steps I posted above - You can test each system independently, doesn't have to be in order.