Suspension specs I need to bring my car in for an alignment. The car has H&R Race Springs with Koni adjustables. I do a few DEs a year. I'm leaning a spec for good tire wear, although turn in i important. Any suggestions? |
I've brought mine to a few places to get the alignment done, each one has told me that theres nothing they can adjust except toe...After putting on H&R sports and Bilstein Sports a few years ago, I go through tires at least every 6 months. So, I've been under the impression that I need to get camber kits for the front and rear, in order to adjust camber and caster. Mine is a 95, I dont know if that makes a difference. |
You can still adjust the front. But ideally camber plates would be best. Camber plates drop the car even more and I don't want to go any lower. |
I can live with the front camber, but the rear is ridiculous! I've heard that the adjustable RTAB's have the tendency to slip and require routine adjustments. Saintse36's alpine Ti had a nice suspension setup. IIRC he had Koni adjustables all the way around and he said that a shop that he took his car to welded some kind of rods in the rear that kept his camber within specs and prevented irregular tire wear. He has since sold the car, so pics are out of the question, but I'm going to try to get more information and have this done on my car in the near future. |
My rear needs adjusting. I hit the gas and the car skews to the left. Front is now set. I just used 323ti specs for now. |
Quote:
You can get the adjustable rear camber bolts, or better yet, the weld in came adjustments and then be creative about locking the eccentric bolt in place. Belt the head, double nut it. For a street car with normal alignment maintenance, you'll be fine. Do realize that a rear alignment may cost you more, and you may need to use a specialist to do it... If you were tracking the car, you just need to do a bit more maintenance, which is probably true regardless. |
Parts are $85 for camber an another $85 for toe. Subframe needs to come down to weld the kits to it. |
Just got my car aligned last night. I have decent treadwear although aggesive front camber combined with out of wack rear toe causes inside tire wear. I need to be better about flipping the tire on the rim to get better life out of tires. I also need some kind of rear toe correction as the alignment shows... front: left: -3.0 camber, 7.7 caster, -1/16th in. toe Right: -2.9 camber, 7.5 caster, -1/16th in. toe Total toe: -1/8inch Rear: left: -2.2 camber, 5/32 inch toe right: -2.0 camber, -7/64 inch toe total toe: 1/16inch thrust angle: 0.26 degrees The thrust angle causes the butt of the car to steer to the right slightly. You have to steer slightly to the left to counteract it, and I've always thought the steering wheel was just a little cock-eyed. With the camber plates in the "street" position I have -1.5 camber in both fronts, and 1/16inch of toe on each side, or 1/8 toe in. total. I don't change caster, just leave it at maximum. The difference in front camber/caster from right to left is my weight. Out of the car the alignment is spot on, but slightly off with me in the car. Once I have the interior done I'll get the car corner balanced, then re-aligned and probably shim the struts to get the measurements perfect with me in the car. |
as i understand rear toe is not ajustable as well as front camber am i right? |
Front toe is the only factory adjustment without changing parts |
Does anyone have pictures of before and after rear weld on camber kit? I am planning on doing this in the future when I replace subframe bushings. thanks |
whats the regular front toe for TI-s? need to adjust it... |
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