m42 no spark and no fuel
 

1995 m42 1.8. So I've read a few posts with this problem. Mine is FUN-Key. I replaced the head gasket, put it back together and it wouldn't start. I pulled the #3 plug and tested it for spark and yep, spark! Then when putting it back in I noticed I had the #3 and #4 wires crossed. I reversed them to the right order, still not starting. After about 2 hours of messing with it I checked the plugs for spark again and no spark this time. The plugs are dry also. So, will having the wrong wire on the wrong plug throw a sensor off? I did the pedal trick and only got code 1444, end of code. If the crank sensor is bad, shouldn't it throw a code? Is there a way to test these sensors? I unplugged the batt for an hour to let the system reset. It all worked before, why would changing the head gasket make a sensor go bad? Anyone got any help for me?

Just a thought, are the camshaft sprockets interchangeable? They look the same and match up, I was wondering if one of "studs" on the sprocket was designed to trip the position sensor and the other is there for balance?

There is a metal trigger that is bolted on the sprocket on the intake side. The trigger needs to be on the correct stroke I think but it might not matter as long as the trigger is bolted on

I would disconnect your battery positive and ground that on the frame to discharge all capacitors. Then hook it back up and try to start.

Make sure you have the radio code and be aware if it does start it will run bad until the computer adapts to the outside conditions. Adaption can take up to 10 miles of city driving.

Both sprockets are marked with an arrow so they went on right ( I marked the chains with silicone at the arrows to match them up). So I am sure it would hit the right timing point. This is the 3rd head gasket I've done on m42's just the 1st time I've seen this. I did pull on the sensor cable alot getting around it (too lazy to take it all the way off the plastic holder) maybe I dis-lodged the wires on the cam sensor. I did disconnect the battery for an hour so that didn't help. I guess I'll replace the 2 sensors and start there.

Crank Trigger first. My car will run with the Cam Sensor disconnected but won't start with Crank sensor damage

Mine was an ews problem(since when did 95's have that...lol), but I'd say do everything stated above first, then a crank sensor. If that still doesn't fix it, its possible the coil is bad for the ignition.


Best of luck to you

Well, I ordered new crank and cam sensors, went to put them on and noticed that I pulled the crank sensor connector out will tugging on the intake housing getting the heads off. I went ahead and replaced them since I had new one and wow, it started. Problem is now it idles so erratically it's not funny. Like it goes from 1000 to 3000 2 to 3 times per second. I'll search but any idea what causes that one?

Vacuum lines or ecu resetting parameters. I'd lean towards vacuum though, just trying to suggest simple/inexpensive fixes first. ;)

Yea, one of the lines. I can't win with this car. I fixed (mostly) the idle problem, decided to drive the car the 1 mile to work and the key just spun in the lock cylinder when I tried to turn it off. I had to pull the relay for the fuel pump to shut it off. Now tomorrow I get to pull the ignition housing. I'm going backwoods and I'm going to stick a screwdriver in the ignition! Anyone want a 318ti project car for $800?

OK' pulled the upper intake off and oops, one of the sensor leads had come unclipped. I pushed it back on and installed new clip, now it idles very erratically. It goes from 600 to 1200 and back in about 1 second over and over again. If I drive it' it just lurches forward over and over. When the engine warms up, it doesn't idle erratically but lurches at the 3000 - 3500 range. When it gets warm it stops all together. Any ideas?

Assuming you carefully inspected the intake hose form the meter to the throttle body for cracks? Even small one REALLY make the engine angry....

Dave