niteshaded all the lights today, the driver corner was held in with a screw, no wonder it didn't sit straight

I did the brake light section of the taillight lighter than the rest, don't want to be getting rear ended ;)

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...k/100_1092.jpg

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...k/100_1093.jpg

small updates today, I fixed the battery hold down, couldn't get the broken bolt out so I just drilled a new hole, drilled holes in the bottoms of my taillights, water kept getting in and drilling holes was cheaper and easier than replacing the gaskets, and I put my Sparco harness in on the drivers side. I'm not sure if I'll keep the harness in or not, the rear seat belt bolt that I attached it to is way off center compared to the seat. and yes, I know that that's an unsafe way to install a harness, if I was risking hitting anything other than cones I wouldn't have done it.


I've also noticed that the car feels a little bit sluggish when I start accelerating, the PO replaced the cam position sensor with an aftermarket one that keeps setting off the CEL. anyone know if a bad cam sensor can cause poor low end power?

my boss is going to help me install my new suspension set up this weekend, the old suspension is pretty shot, both rear springs are broken and I can feel it getting a little squirrelly going over bumps

new suspension set up is pretty similar to what's on my purple ti

H&R race springs
Bilstein sport shocks
Bimmerworld spherical RSMs
H&R 28mm front sway bar
strut tower reinforcement plates from Bimmerworld
Sparco strut tower bar

plus I need to cut the old, busted sway bar mount off and weld a new one on

next autocross is on the 10th, hopefully I can have it ready by then

ti freak where did you get the spoiler for your window?

it's a Rieger, I bought it used on eBay, they've been discontinued for a little while now so you'll have to hunt around and find one used

Subscribed.

today me and my boss installed the front and rear springs and shocks, didn't get around to the sway bar but that should get done tomorrow. with H&R race springs it actually sat higher in the back, both rear springs had a coil broken off the bottom and the right one also had a coil missing off the top, plus when my boss took my front struts apart the shafts just dropped all the way into the body, it was definitely all ready for replacement.

I also removed the 4-point harness I had, there wasn't any good way to install it without me getting spinal compression in an accident. I also removed some of the sound insulation from the back since I had all the trunk carpet out anyway

No Irene fallout by you?

no, I was pretty lucky since I'm up so far north, southern Vermont got slammed though

today I swapped the original air box with the old one out of my 95 ti, the 95 air box is almost the same as a fogged box, plus it doesn't have any of that foam inside. only problem is that the M42 air box top doesn't attach to the M44 MAF so I had to reuse the M44 top

old vs. new:
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...k/100_1100.jpg

installed:
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...k/100_1101.jpg

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...k/100_1103.jpg

anyone have any suggestions for a better way to seal the hole for the intake muffler? I don't own a plastic welder or anything like that.

couple more pics since I had my camera out anyway
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...k/100_1102.jpg

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...k/100_1104.jpg

I have a good anount of experience plastic welding motorcycle fairings with a plastic welder and various donor strips specific to the type of plastic. But I have heard of people using a large soldering iron and zip ties to melt in as the donor rod. Or better yet, if you have parts left over of the same plastic, cut it into strips for and exact match and better bond. But I don't know how big an area you are dealing with. Work in a ventilated area!

it's about a 2 inch circular hole, it would probably take a lot of zip-ties to fill it

Oh I see your duct tape now (I'm on a phone) you will need to cut a patch out of something. Welding will hold good but epoxy would probably hold just fine.

didn't think of epoxy, I've got plenty of that, I should be able to find some scrap plastic somewhere

Or maybe a hot glue gun.