Transmission Fill Bolt won't budge!
 

So I'm trying to change the trans fluid on my manual 1995 318ti (m42.)
The problem is when I get my 17mm wrench on the bolt and turn counterclockwise it dose not budge, I've spent probably too much time on it getting pissed. I used so much force eventually the threads went from perfect to slightly rounded, even though I'm using the box end of a 17mm and it's not slipping.. It feels like the f*cking thing is welded into the trans. Is it reverse threaded? I eventually took out a pair of vice grips, determined to get the job done and I used both hands, vice locked in place, and I after probably 150 pounds of force the aluminum of the bolt is just shredding into ribbons of aluminum..

I just want to get this done over the weekend. I have a spare trans fill bolt (magnetic) ready to go in so I'm not worried about ruining the old one.
Please any help I'm out of ideas...:confused:

Before you get the drain plug out, are you able to open the fill plug?
It is not reverse thread.

For extra leverage I'll use a long pipe or my jack stand handle since it's hollow.

Yes sorry I'm referring to my Fill plug. my jack only raises it enough just to squeeze under so theirs not much wiggle room but I'll try again tomorrow =(

rounding my bolt
 

I suggest you buy an LW10 vise grip (locking wrench) and add it to your tool arsenal. Try ebay.

yes - counter clockwise, Lefty Loosey.

Thanks for your advice, I've been using these: https://www.irwin.com/tools/locking-...th-wire-cutter

And as I've said even with it fully locked tight as possible I put all my weight into pulling with both hands with my knees locked on the front bumper so I don't slide. and I must be putting at least 150 pounds of force if not more (my shoulder are actually sore today) and the bolt will not move, even with the vice still locked the bolt will start to shred. It feel like the aluminum is too soft on the construction and it's just on too tight. I don't know I'f I can win at this point. I'd use a pair bolt extractors but there is no room to use a ratchet.

This is the most frustrating thing. No matter what I try nothing works, I swear someone must have used thread lock or welded it in. at this point it would be quicker to put a brand new transmission in. Guess I'm gonna give up on changing the fluid and drive it till it breaks.

Have you soaked it with PB Blaster?

Pb blaster over night

Torch to heat area

Impact gun

If that stuff doesn't work, forget about the fluid change. BMW uses "lifetime" oil anyhow..heh.

BMW uses "lifetime" oil anyhow..heh.

Yeah right ! LOL.

I have changed my 5-speed transmission fluid like 4 times already. Still shifts smooth at 280k miles.
I used a six point socket to break it loose. Then just hand snug it tight.
Do not overtighten.

For BMW Automatic Transmission.
After you drain & snug tite the bolt, remove the fill bolt and fill til it drips, then replace bolt. THEN start the car and get her to full temperature. the fluid is now low, because it has cycled. Remove fill bolt and I use my power brake bleeder to pump in more ATF til
it just drips, replace bolt and wipe clean. She is NOW filled!

Bills86e

Bill, do you still need to start the car and get it up to temperature on a manual transmission?
As I understand, atf will expand with temperature so I don't think it will be low.

Now, if it's an automatic transmission, yes, it has to be in idle and up to 90F to complete the fill process.

Yeah, PB blaster didn't do the trick so I got the car off the stands since i need to use it today. My friend just opened up a shop with bays and more tools than I have, so I'll head there tomorrow. Thanks for all the response!

Damn! I thought soaking in PB Blaster and walking away would do the trick.
Good luck!