I have the one's from Autozone but if you have a harbor freight near by that may work as well.

Yeah there is one miles away, thanks. Should I ask for any general size for the load of a M52 and not a b16 haha

No the smallest/cheapest one will work. I'll be at Quantico Virginia by the end of this month for military training and I can give you a hand if you're not too far away.

thanks for the tip dah, I'm in 20904, MD check that out, until may I'll be cleaning it up and checking it out inside and out so I'm hoping to get that stand pretty soon. That'd be great if you came by, I'll supply the apple juice

I'm thinking about picking up this diff http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1207071
what do you all think? Will it fit the ti? is there a way to swap out the input flange for a 4 bolt?

I think that is a killer deal even with the crack. You can swap the 4 bolt flange as I have done it twice now. I think its a 30 mm. An impact gun works well on it.

I would swap the cover as well right? bump for more replies

It's definitely a 3.23 LSD, I could barely read the tag in the pic. I think it's a good deal for 200, I just picked up an e30 diff cover for Marv at the junkyard for less than 20 bucks. If he still has the piece that broke off, you could have it repaired for pretty cheap, that's a badass finned diff cover. BTW, Z3 LSD's are torsen type vs. the e30's clutch type LSD. As for engine stands, First I bought the cheapo stand from Harbor Freight. Then I decided that I was going to have a lot of money sitting on it for months on end and also wanted to be able to wrench on it without the engine bouncing around and fear of the welds breaking on the stand. So I returned the cheap stand and bought the more expensive model. You'll have to get creative if you want to do any internal work that requires locking the crank in place while it's on the stand. I had to make a few special tools, but nothing crazy. I'll post some pics for you in a second.

Thanks Jess, can't wait

hey Jess, what do you think about swapping the input flange to four bolt on that diff

You can do that, but if so, I'd recommend replacing the bearing and seal as well. IIWY, I'd try to find a rear section of the drive shaft that has the same bolt pattern. I'm planning on using an M3 front section and a Ti rear section with my s52/ZF tranny/e28 LSD. Usually you could find a combination of front and rear driveshafts that will achieve the correct length you're looking for. There's a little flexibility as well since the driveshafts telescope together via a spline shaft, so it doesn't have to be exactly the same length. Anyway, here's the engine stand I got from Harbor Freight. It was on sale, normally $140 on sale for $99. Way stronger and more stable than the 3 wheel'd stand that I returned. There's a close up pic of my homemade crank locking tool. Also, here's my hydraulic engine hoist and load leveler. I think it cost 250 for the hoist and 40 for the leveler. Even folded up, it's still a big tool which takes up a lot of space in the garage:

I have a 4 bolt m3 DS as pictured above, so you're saying I should find a 6 bolt rear shaft section to make it easier instead of swapping the flange

Honestly, I'm not sure. I've never swapped a flange before, so I don't know how difficult it is. I was just suggesting that maybe you could get the shaft that normally bolts to that diff and mate it to a front section of proper length. Heck, since it's off of a Z3, the complete front and rear driveshaft combo might fit perfectly, but I'm not sure.

thanks man I'll look into it and report back

that stand you got at a discount is awesome. They don't have any deals on those at the moment

Is there a Harbor Freight nearby? They're on sale right now!