All,
Three weeks ago A friend and I installed the DASC on my 98 Sport. The SC kit was, as advertised, a pretty straight forward installation. There were some difficult moments however and at times the instructions were not real clear. The reason for that is that the kit is for any 97 on 318 and as most of us know these cars are not exactly alike. It took a good 12 hrs to do the install (properly). I didn't like the way some of the plumbing was done and what you have to do to some of miscellaneous valves that get taken out of the intake stream. At first I was a little disappointed in the performance because I just couldn't feel it. I was expecting a huge change in the car and just didn't get it. After driving for a couple of days I could actually feel the difference in the power. The thing is, is that the power is so smooth you can't really notice it until you drive for a little while. The car revs way hard all the way to the rev limit. Unfortunately first gear is kind of useless unless you are not in the throttle too heavy. If any of you are planning on doing this or any other forced induction upgrade you may as well go ahead and buy a new clutch kit (performance). Mine had only 42K on it when I did the upgrade and it just cannot handle the power. On the test drive after the install my friend wanted me to do a burnout. I turned off the traction control hit around 4500 rpm and dumped the clutch and just sat there stone still. My clutch wouldn't even bite enough to move the car. It does however have enough bite to it to drive the car normally. I do notice some clutch slip up through 4th gear under hard accelleration but not enough to matter. I am however going to swap the clutch as soon as I can find one. If any one wants any more info on this let me know. I'll be glad to share my experience/knowledge on this with you.
Peace
Ray

My mods:
Downing Atlanta SC
Remus Exhaust
UUC Motorwerks Short Shifter
Clear corners & Sides
17" M5 Wheels w/225/45 tires
Eibach Sway Bar Kit F/R
Eibach Pro Kit Springs
Koni Sport Adjustable Struts and Shocks
K&N Intake

Ray -
Congrats on a great upgrade! Any hard time numbers (0-60, 1/4 mile)?

How much was the kit?

Off the subject - what UUC short shifter do you have? It was my understanding that they didn't have one for the 318ti (or any 318-) tranny.
Thanks!

You can use the shift lever from a 1.9 Z3 for a shorter throw.

See http://www.happytogether.com/318ti/f...ML/000001.html

For even a shorter throw, use a lever from an M Coupe. Some years may require some bending.

See Ron Stygar's website for more information.

Also see the notebook section

...steven

[This message has been edited by Steven Schlossman (edited 05-29-2001).]

Dan,
First, sorry it took me so long to get back to you. I've been away for a week or so and am just getting back into the day to day. I don't have any hard numbers yet and haven't really tried to get any as my clutch can't handle the power well enough to make it worth the effort. The numbers would probably be real disappointing with the factory clutch. As for the cost it was $3,475 with shipping. My UUC shifter is the street short shifter. I bought it from Turner Motorsport (turnermotorsport.com). They list all the applications on their web site and do list a shifter for the ti. However, when I ordered it the guy said they are the same for all E36 except for the M3. They say you will need to bend the shift rod when doing the install but I didn't have to. It just misses the guibo no matter what gear I'm in so I didn't go to the trouble of bending it. Just wish I would have seen Ron Stygar's instructions on removing the bitch pin before I done the work. I took me longer to get that pin out than it did to do the rest of the work. I finally had to break it to get it out. Luckily the UUC kit comes with a new pin. Forgot to mention in my last that I also installed the delrin bushings. If you're doing the shifter go ahead and do these too. They're an easy upgrade and take a lot of the side to side slop out of the shifter. OK guys I'm starting to ramble so I'll shut up for now.
Any other Q's just let me know. Peace

Ray: Thanks for the info. I've been talking with Ron about maybe installing a Z-3 (or MZ3) shifter in my car. I currently have a TMS street short shifter, but it's still pretty sloppy albeit shorter. So the Derlin bushings do make a diff., huh? They seem logical. I hear the UUC ERK kit actually screws up the shifting with our cars since ti's already have bent selectors.

good luck on your clutch!

i have the same kit on my car and i love it. i just replaced the original stock clutch at 84k with another OEM and its working great so far.

Sleeper,
You say you're still using the stock clutch huh? You haven't had any trouble with clutch slip when you get all over it? Does your car have ASC+T? Mine does. The ASC is switchable however, I don't think it totally disengages when switched off. That is what was making me think my clutch was no good. In the past couple of weeks I've been getting an intermittent ASC light (total system failure) under normal driving. It will come on and stay on until I turn off the car and restart it. When the light comes on the ASC is totally disengaged and I can make the car spin the tires and drive hard all the way through the gears with no clutch slip. So for now my search for a clutch is off and if I don't have any more problems I'll just replace it with stock when needed.
On the subject of the ASC, does anyone know anything about it or what may be causing the failure. I have to admit it's fun to drive without it in good weather. Unfortunately, here in Germany I'm going to need it this fall and winter just to keep myself in the pavement. Peace
Ray

before i replaced it there was significant slippage, but it had 84k mi on it. so when i went to replace it i talked to the mechanic about getting a higher performance clutch and he said that the oem should hold up no problem. and it has so far, bites hard too. (about 1,000 mi)

I had the same problem with the ASC+T on my 97 Active - the light kept coming on (indicating the system was dis-engaged) at random. I took it in twice and they replaced the cable on it. The third time around, the dealer said that the cable for the ASC+T stretches over time, and they tightened it up (vs. replacement). Hasn't come on again...

bbbmw
What cable are you talking about? I've been way busy for some time now and haven't had the chance to get my car into the shop to have someone look at it or even to look at it myself. I have the Bentley manual for the car but it doesn't say da*nit about the ASC+T so I'm pretty much clueless when it come to that. Any help you can give me would be appreciated. Peace
Ray