AC compressor clutch fix??
 

***UPDATE*** 7/22/11 - After a few months this fix became less and less effective. After some research, I found that some compressor clutches have spacers. Sure enough, I pulled off the clutch plate (just as I did to clean it) and found there were four thin spacers on the clutch shaft. They are impossible to see, but I took a small screwdriver, stuck a strong magnet on the side of it, put it in alongside of the clutch shaft & (like magic) the spacers came out one at a time. You may do just as well if you have a good magnetic screwdriver small enough to fit in the space necessary. I removed three of the four spacers and the A/C clutch kicks on without fail ever since.http://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/...gy/clutch1.jpg My AC had started to sporatically stop & start working a couple weeks ago. When it worked, it would blow ice cold. Then it stopped working altogether. The AC button still lights up & the aux fan also comes on, but the compressor doesn't kick on anymore. I jumpered the relay pins & the clutch never engaged. I would think that even if the pressure was low, the compressor should still engage if I jumper the pins at the relay location...correct?? Then, I found this article on another site... http://www.bmwe36blog.com/forum/a-c-...-fix-t766.html Anybody ever heard of this? Sounds reasonable, I might try it next week. If it's a good tip, many thanks to johnnyjr_1 @ bmwe36blog.com :biggrin:

mine does the same thing. it works one year, and not the next. i found a thread on here about 2 years ago where someone removed the AC clutch, and the wire that runs on top of it was shorting out and had similar problems (but i think he was blowing one of the fuses) which mine did at first, (not it just doesn't work, same problem as you are having)

let me know if you try anything, since i am in the same boat. haha

I'll certainly post anything I find out that's helpful.
I did read on a posting somewhere that the bearing on the clutch can wear out and cause the short as you described and the bearing failure can also cause it to make a lot of noise as well. Right now, I have no blown fuses and it wasn't making any weird noises, so I assume that the clutch may be the problem.

If anyone can post a link to some instructions on compressor clutch removal, that would be great! I haven't found anything yet.

I can't beleive it! It actually worked! :dance:
I had a feeling it might and I was inspired to do a tutorial on it.
It can be viewed here...
http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=33308

I'll post any issues with this fix, just to see if it works long-term.
But for now, I'm happy. :biggrin:
It's going to be near 90 degrees here tomorrow & I melt easily.

that just seems to easy.. haha.

thanks ALOT for posting a How-to on fixing it. i will let everyone know if it helped me as well, but since our symptoms seem exactly the same, i would have to take a bet and say it will fix my problem.

thanks man -mike

That would be great if it works for you too.:biggrin:

If yours was blowing fuses at first, I'd check to make sure your compressor relay is OK as well.

I'm attempting to fix the A/C on my wife's 1998 318i. Static pressure in both the high and low ports is > 80psi. (Is this too much?)

The fuses and relays are fine. I get >12v to the compressor's connector plug. But the compressor clutch does not engage. If I apply 12v directly to the compressor's connector, still nothing.

So, I followed the how-to above. There was quite a bit of corrosion on both mating surfaces, and I got it all cleaned off. But still no clutch engagement. The only thing I can think of is that the compressor clutch's mating surfaces are much more worn than what is in the pictures of that how-to (nearly flat). But shouldn't it at least attempt to engage (even if it slips)?

If you put a ohm meter on the two compressor pin outs do you have any resistance? If not the compressor clutch has a broken wire in the field coil and you need a new one.

I'm fairly certain there was only 1 pin in the connector, although there was room for 3. Should I just check for continuity between that pin and ground?

@Cliff

Not sure if this'll help you. Looks fairly comprehensive as far as electrical system tshooting goes.

AC trouble shooting from bavauto
http://blog.bavauto.com/bmw-e36/bmw-...not-turning-on